E36 Door Handle Replacement DIY

[18rabbit]

So I have three sensors hanging from my drivers door handle. They all have micro switch buttons on them. I have no idea where they go but I do know that my drivers lock/double lock/window function does not work. Can anybody point me in the direction of where these switches go?

[edgedude]

Jesse, how did you plan head so you don't trip the SRS dummy light? Did you disconnect power to the airbag? Did you replace the bolts. Thanks for the warnings but what are you suggestions to deal with the items?

[brunp]

I just reused the same bolts. It will work. It takes 15 min of a disconnected battery to avoid the SRS light, so wait 15 minutes (i.e., grab a coffee), then remove the air bag, remove the sound battery, and then re-attach the air-bag, all you need are just two bolts to keep it secure as you are not driving. Then reconnect the battery.

This way, you will avoid the SRS light and also allow you to maneuver the door.

Just remember the battery again when re-assembling your door. :-)

you don't need to replace the bolts as long as you tighten it properly with a good socket wrench and then reconnect the power lead properly.

Paul

[edgedude]

Ok, I took out the old broken door handle. How do I remove the old lock cylinder and put it in my replacement door handle. It is the same year '98 replacement, looks exactly the same. Thanks guys.

I have gotten the cover off and the ball bearing and springs so that the tumbler can turn in the assembly. However, I cannot get the tumbler out, I am having problems with the screwdriver and in the hole at the bottom of the assembly. The tumbler wont budge when I get the screwdriver and attempt to push on the wafers. Also what do you mean by turn cylinder as you depress the wafers? "Take a small bladed screwdriver and depress the wafers slowly working the cylinder out as you turn the cyl." I would appreciate any help you can give, Im stuck at this point. Thanks.

Please anybody, I am stuck, can't get the tumbler out of the replacement handle!!!

[brunp]

When you insert the actual key, you are able to remove it, or at least that is how I was able to remove it. I know there was a cotter pin that was tough as nails to remove on the old handle. Once that was removed, I was able to insert it into the new handle without issues.

Paul

[edgedude]

I didn't have a key to the repalcement handle so I couldn't get the tumbler out of it to insert my current tumbler. Finally took a large screwdriver and smashed the sonovabiatch with a big hammer to get it out. Could have saved 3 hours if I had just smashed it in the first place. Now I still have to insert the handle back in there tonight.

Cheap BMW pos door handle! Don't even attempt this fix w/o tilting the window forward. Mark the window position with masking tape and tape the handle to protect it from scratches.
Done: the relevant posts are 55,110,121,131,135 and 161.

[Skunk]

4. REMOVE DOOR HANDLE AND PREPARE THE NEW HANDLE

Now, the crux of this DIY.

First, take off the door handle trim. It's been covered before, so just refer to this DIY or whatever post you can dig up with the Search button. On coupe doors, there's a metal tab that will basically cover the sliding trim lock, so it might be easier to work from inside the door than through the access hole. You can kind of make it out in the next picture, but you'll see it when you get to this step.

Second, disconnect the door handle from the door lock. There are two things to take care of. Decouple the large metal arm on the door handle from the slotted lever in the lock. Then disconnect the hooking arm between the tumbler from the lock mechanism.



Third, undo the door handle attachments. On the inside of the door, unclip the back of the retaining piston and pull it out. On the outside, unscrew the locking ring and remove the plastic washer (don't lose it!). Some other write-ups have suggested using a horologist's tool for removing the back of watches, but that's not necessary. I used a pair of needle-nose pliers without trouble.



That's it! Now pull out the door handle.

How did you guys get that ^ locking ring thing on the tumbler off?? I used pliers (crappy ones) but couldn't get enough leverage for the amount of pulling force I needed..
Do you need to spin it out?
I didnt have too much time to mess with it but do you also need to take out the actual door lock/ latch on the side of the door to unhook the rods that connect door latch to handle?

I dont have a replacement handle yet so Im not fully taking off my old handle. Was just trying to get a better understanding..

[edgedude]

You don't pull it, you unscrew it. You do not take the latch off the side of the door.

[Skunk]

Yeah she spun off nicely after it broke loose. Just need the handle now before I mess with the glass.

[jereisluke]

O M G. Just did this mission today for my driver's door, next time I'll probably pay someone to do it. Took me all day, and got stuck at the end with the window rail slider on the right. Wasn't much clearance to insert the retaining clip and strugled for about 1.5 hrs to get it clipped. Then my roommate figured out that it was easier to insert the clip halfway onto the slider, then push the window arm pin into it and then slide the clip all the way on. Then we discovered that the window was off the track nearest the door hinge! So the clips came out again and we fiddled with it until it got back in the track.

One thing I found out in reassembly was that I had to hold the trim tightly against the door while sliding the locking plate back on. I didn't do this at first and the plate wouldn't slide all the way. I figured this out and then it slid on no problem.

WARNING: This isn't an easy/fast task the first time around. Give yourself plenty of time.

Truer words were never spoken. Great DIY, the pictures were very well composed and helpful. I was so happy when this was done, it feels like you've just completed something epic.

[brunp]

This task ended up being the most painful DIY, but the most rewarding as well. Same goes for replacing the door latch on the passenger side.

Both jobs require you to operate in limited space. I never did get a chance to post my own pictures of this job or write up this DIY on my website. I will have to compare notes and post up any other pictures that might help others out.

On another note, I had to replace the lock and lock actuator in the trunk. That ended up being a very easy 30 min job. Couldn't believe how much space you have compared to the doors. I didn't even have to look up any DIY on that. Very easy...

Paul

[redroker77]

I just finished changing this part out on my car. One thing I noticed is that there's a difference between the 1992 to 95 and 1996-1998 model driver doorhandles. Physically they both the same it's just the lock tumbler that differs. Anyhow with the economy the way it is right now, I decided that it would be best just to pay seven dollars for a part from the junkyard which was in good condition Opposed to a lock door handle set from the dealership that would cost close to $300. one thing to be careful with is the window alignment. I found it easy to align the window with it all the way up and having back read your guide slightly
loose. With the rear guide being slightly loose I checked how freely the window would go up and down without the sliders attached. Once I determined that the winDow moved freely without jamming, I tightened Down the rear guide and attached the plastic sliders.

[ssyellow]

Doing this right now but having trouble with reassembly. I'm at the point where I put the whole latch assembly back into the door but for some reason I can't get the key hole side of the handle to go through far enough so I can screw back on the locking right from the outside. It feels like there is something stopping me but I can't find out what for the life of me. Any thoughts?

[brunp]

I had this happen to me before.....there is something the door handle has to slide in front of, so it lines up properly. If you open up the rubber grommets or look inside the for with your flash-light, you will see there is a protrusion that juts out from the door frame, and part of the assembly has to sit in front of that protrusion so everything lines up correctly.

I will have to look tonight to see if I have a clear picture in my DIY pics.

Paul

[ssyellow]

Thanks for the quick response. I think I know what your talking about. If I'm looking at the door from the inside its in the upper left hand side? Right in the same area where you have to push the metal piece to release the door trim? About to start back up and try to get this done within the next hour.....or four haha.

Finally located it and got it all done. Now I have broken window sliders though as mine were already pretty much done for. After I get that in I should be all good to go.

[watchcame36]

I notice on TIS they say it can be one without window removal?

http://tis.spaghetticoder.org/s/view.pl?2/09/53

I need to change the front rubber so need to take the window out of its runner which is a pain.

[brunp]

external door handle cover yes. Actual door handle mechanism, nope.....

Paul

[jereisluke]

I'm still on this as I had to order the window slider clips and they came in today. Having the hardest time trying to align my window. The front weather stripping/trim is getting pinched behind the window when I try to slide it up. Has anyone else had this problem?

I did have a similar issue, the window was out of the vertical rubber track it slides in at the front of the door, and would bind as it was moved up. I had to loosen the bolts on the rear metal guide rail so I could slide the window rearward a little and then maneuver it forward to slide in the front vertical rubber track. I had a friend do the maneuvering while I peered down into the door area from above with a flashlight and guided it in. Good luck.

Take a look at the Bentley too, it has a good section on setting the preload on the window for the coupe. You don't want to have too much preload or the window could break, check it before you close the door fully.

[jereisluke]

My tumblers themselves were very similar, but the springs on the tumblers were different as the replacement handle I got was from an older model. I swapped my original spring to the new handle. I think at one point the key was not turning one direction, but then I realized the spring was binding. I would check to see that this isn't happening, and check to see that you don't have the tumbler inserted backwards (180 degrees off). Maybe too there's some very small differences in the tumblers or housings that are preventing them from turning. Do you have powered graphite too? Apply some of that and maybe that will help.

[harry328is]

Tried all of the above but had no luck, so I ended up using the new wafers/key. Oh well, not that big a deal to have one more key on the ring. Thanks for the help though.As for the project itself... wasn't too bad at all. Great write up!

[fun2drive]

Today I begin the process of replacing the door handle. Door panel off, one section to repair, regulator arms popped off, window currently lowered down on to a towel.
Planning to move the window out of the way tomorrow but bought a borescope camera that comes with 32MB memory which I plan to use to take a lot of pics inside this thing and I hope will help me (and others after I get the pics posted) to install the door handle. My door handle is sticking sometimes and the actuator is not working at all so it is time.
I AM NOT looking forward to doing this but I know I am more careful (and slow) than anyone else will be that I could take it to.
Borescope is overkill but I had plans to buy one for other applications around the house and car. I hope the ability to take some pictures of the current door handle from the inside will help me when I go to install the new one since it seems the orientation is what we are all lacking pictures of when installed...

[fun2drive]

Well I used the borescope today to try and aid in removing and installing the new door handle. I decided I would also remove the door latch since I am replacing the door lock actuator and it would be easier all the way around.

Borescope doesn't really help much, good thing I have other uses for it. Followed the DIY above but honestly this is a true PITA. I have the new hardware transfered to the door handle and the new actuator installed as well. Testing the old door handle is depressing. It seems to be fine. I don't know if that means the actuator was the issue because it seemed to move freely as well. The door latch seems OK and I lubed it since I could get to all the moving parts.
I am certain because I am repairing just one door panel white connector and small plastic panel needed to reglued that I will end up taking 3 times as long as most of you report.
I took the door latch off because I can't for all the world see how I can attach the handle lever itself to the door latch or the other wire latch that attaches to the door handle and door latch itself.
Seems like most of you can get this off without taking the door latch loose but I sure could not.
Not looking forward to doing the install since I expect the frustration level will be huge.
Even attaching the new actuator looking at the door latch was a PITA when it should have been a piece of cake. I didn't take the inside door handle wire connector off the door latch, not sure how you can do that so it was getting in the way of attaching the new door actuator.
Good news is that it will be well lubricated and have a new actuator and door handle. Other task is to replace the driver's side door lock actuator. Not sure how much fun that will be either.
Problem that is mostly related to a lot of us DIY guys is the size of our hands. I have large hands not extra large hands and anyone with small hands can most likely do this task in 1/2 the time or less...
More when I get this installed. I will review the pics I took using the borescope but I don't think they are anymore revealing than the DIY...

[fun2drive]

Door handle is installed.
I don't know how any of you can get the handle on without taking the latch off as well so you can hook the latch to the door handle. Once I got that done which was by far the hardest part of the job for me the rest was just time consuming.
I forgot two things which I will have to go back and correct. I didn't tie wrap the wires that are right in front of you that you most likely cut and I didn't get my door handle surround on correctly. I could not push hard enough to hold it in place and pull the slider since I needed one more hand.
I also scratched my tinted window up since there are loads of nice sharp edges that will not scratch glass but sure will scratch tinting. I never had this issue replacing a motor but this was my first try at replacing the door latch. If I had to do it again and I sure hope I never do I would have masked off the entire glass where my tinting was...

[fun2drive]

I took a picture to aid those doing this regarding how to grab the slider that you move to lock your door handle surround in place.
Also you can see the pivot hole that the top of the door handle goes in. That causes most of the issues reinstalling the door handle. I rate that as a 5 out of 10 compared to trying to get that hook from the latch attached to the door handle which to me was a 9 out of 10.

[M3C]

One thing that was not mentioned-clarified on this thread ...The driver's side door handle has 3 different cables (microswitches) that are connected, one of them is lock heater, my question is does the passenger's side have a heater-how many cables the pass. side door handle has? Regarding the trunk...how hard it is to remove the carpet, it appears those carpet clips are hard to take off, how do you do it?