Hey guys quite new to the site but after some advice all the same..
My daily driver is E30 318 M10 turbo 1.8. 9.2:1 comp 14 psi (t25g) making about 145kw@the wheels. The motors done 220K and never been opened. I don't plan to rebuild this motor.
Instead I have a late E21 2ltr block that has been cracked tested and measured.. Ideally i would like a comp of 8.5:1 and about 20psi. I plan to run forged pistons, balanced crank/rods, ARP rod bolts and head bolts.. nothing fancy..
Since I live in australia enthusiam and after market products are none existant for bmw. My question is this:
What piston (brand is recomended)?
What headgasket?
Which valve springs?
And where is relaible to buy these parts.
Cheers guys.
Last edited by wotTheE30; 03-10-2007 at 03:30 PM.
You should really move that battery to the trunk.
Rob - 2000 BMW Z3 M Roadster | 1986 Porsche 944 5.3L LM4
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http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum...d.php?t=618711
Fast, Cheap, Reliable - Pick any two, and the third is laughable
i had a mob in dandenong do my pistons if you want to get stuff locally.
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Sure that sounds good. What exactly did they do to your pistons?
you can contact me on milk88@bigpond.net.au
Cheers
Found one of my other threads
http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum...ighlight=turbo
this is no longer a happening thing, as i have just gotten married, and have a baby due in a few weeks
Guess ill just have to park the block in the shed, and see what i do to it myself
Fast, Cheap, Reliable - Pick any two, and the third is laughable
yer i read that one.. The bloke who fabricated my manifold built an m10 with custom this custom that to run t66 (secret spec). He pushed out 371kw@the wheels on 28psi. I wasn't too interested what was in the block as it was way out of my budget. I beleive it was forged pistons and rods (fabricated in melbourne), custom crank, dry filled block halfway for strength, ported head that out flowed most top door slammers, autronic, two pumps, massive fuel rail and 1000cc injectors, race clutch ceramic clutch backed up by a dog leg m3 box and shoe horned z3 M diff centre. I'll try and find a picture of it. Crazy guy! great fabricater.
wot, you cant recieve PM's atm, so ill post it here.
the problem there may be the pin size and offset. and they are cast (but forged are available)
what you need to do is take that info to your builder, and see what they say - personally i wouldnt bore the block that far.
The stock bore is 89mm and altho the bore walls are very thick, taking 3mm out of them is going to reduce the strength.
The M10 is a bloody strong motor due to the design and thickness of the casting - in reality you dont want to remove metal from the bores on a high boost motor, as they can start to deform and wear rapidly.
i was quoted $1500 for a set of ross pistons - drop them in and you will have no more problems, another $1500 for a set of argo rods, along with a prepped crank - your bottom end is rock solid
i was also quoted $5K to prep, build and balance the whole thing.
That setup will take 8K RPM, and as much boost as you can throw at it.
Working the head is another problem all together, as the 2V setup doesnt breath well, and will limit power to around 500hp
Take the heads to a V8 builder, and they may be able to work some magic on them. The heads do show potential tho, as the stock valves and ports are fairly big, but i dont know how much metal is in the head for porting.
Im in adelaide, where abouts are you?
If your here too, i am more than happy to give you a hand spinning spanners and having a chat
Let me know how it goes
Fast, Cheap, Reliable - Pick any two, and the third is laughable
Thanks for the offer but i'm in melbourne. however i'm always up for a chat about m10's.
the pin size and the offset are within .1mm, comp/height is .5mm larger than the e21 flat top, overall height is within 2mm of stock. The pistons are of high silicon compound with 9.5mm crown thickness. Meaning i get these pistons for $120 from repco for the set.
With the rods, they are fine for about 100hp each. However I'm not planning of going further than this. The main aim is to make a budget motor that is reliable makes good power and is road friendly. Its all very good and fine to make abscene horsepower but at the end of the day those cars generally turn into 2 speed power glides cause they sh.t evey box they're in front of. Mines a daily driver and has been for the last 3yrs. My mates thought the motor was going to blow in two weeks of fitting the turbo, they were wrong. All I did to the motor is valve clearances. The rest is 220k stock. I have faith in the m10. just chasing a healthy 200-220kw@the wheels
sounds like you want a set of Tii rods (roumors abound that they are the same as the e21 rod, but i really dont know) and the pistons sound better now
Grab a nice garret turbo, custom turbo manifold and you should be set
valve springs and cam should be swapped out, but i cant advise on lift or duration.
Fast, Cheap, Reliable - Pick any two, and the third is laughable
www.racetep.com sells everything you need for an M10 turbo build.
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