ok so dose anyone know what the f shaped conector that is plugged into the intake boot called and what it is used for the lower hose broke ....
I have the part number and everything....cuz it broke on my car...and took me a month to figure it out....lol
There tis...
http://www.ecstuning.com/Search/13327503677/ES33009/
I actually had the part bag pic on my phone.....sick...lol
Last edited by danewilson77; 06-15-2010 at 07:58 PM.
will it hurt my car if the lower line is disconnected? and what is it used for ?
That line not being on there would introduce a small amount of unmetered air flow into your engine....and you may notice it running slightly rough. The fitting is for vacuum control....
Pc 6 on the below link. I know...it doesn't look like an "F"...but that is the damn part. That's why it took me sooo long to figure out the part number.
http://www.penskeparts.com/DiagramsM...ts=13327503677
what if i plug the lines?
Yes...that is what I would recommend....or taping it up (ghetto...I know).....just until you can get to the dealer......it's like 2 bux or something.
I don't know the ramifications of plugging the hose end....
well this dumb mechanic put gum on it and stuck it together i wanted to punch him in the face and now im worried that the gum is gunna mess the lines up ...
Naaa.....It prolly didn't get sucked in. You didn't know Bubble Yum was an approved fastening device? Grape meets the BMW spec...and only grape.
Thanks for the reference!
We have them available below:
Click HERE to order or for more information.
Please let me know if you have any questions! Feel free to shoot me a PM or email.
Best,
Joe
The smaller vacuum hose that comes off the middle of the F-connector goes down to the fuel filter; it's for the pressure regulator that's built into the fuel filter. I don't know what will happen if it's not connected, but you can probably get around without it for a little while.
Early E46s used a fuel filter without the pressure regulator, so they didn't have that small hose. In those cars, the F-connector was an L-connector (no middle hose), which is what's pictured on RealOEM, which is why that part is so frickin' hard to figure out.
How poorly can the torn boot make your car run? I ask this because the other day my 2002 330cic with 96K had a new whine when I went out to run some errands. On my way home on the interstate I had the top down and the radio very loud. I moved to the slow lane (I don't know why, I don't think I've ever been in that lane on that section of road) and the car started to shake. I thought it was the road or a flat.... I changed the lanes, still rough and thought I better pull in the upcoming rest area to check the tires at which point I noticed the SES light on. As I idled in to the rest area the car shut off on me. I tried to start it and got plumes of light colored smoke out of the back. Half hour later I tried again and limped the remaining 4 miles home. Since then we've spent a little time checking it out. Codes from a DIY reader show random misfires Fuel pressure is OK Suction from oil cap seems ok Started disconnecting the wires from each cylinder one at a time and it appears that all three in bank two are misfiring. I am hoping the combination of needing new spark plugs and possibly a tear in the boot could be my problem although my issues seem to be more severe than those listed here. Any ideas about all of bank 2 misfiring so suddenly. Thanks.
Like absolute dog sheet. Your engine would be getting un-metered air flow.....
I encountered the following codes on my 2003 BMW 525i:
P0170, P0171, P1083, P1085
I replaced the spark plugs, air filter, cleaned the MAF 2 times, and
replaced both upstream O2 sensors.
Then the alternator blew and I replaced it. The mechanics thought my
engine was going to break when they heard it idle.
After resetting the codes, they came back:
P0171, P0174, P1083, P1085 and P0313... interesting... the 313 was new...
I found this thread because of it. I will be checking my intake boot and/or replacing it tomorrow!
Check das boots, and let us know if they are craked or torn...
Wondering with the P0171 and 174 codes, why he didn't try the boots first?
i checked the "y" pipe and its fine , checked the disa fine aswell ... what else i can do .... im stuck . plus i couldnt take off that Y boot ,
If you can't get the "Y" joint loose....how did u inspect the boot?
Maybe you could try the smoke test diy....
I could stick my finger there. How do I do smoke test diy
You could try putting a very bright light in the upper boot and turn off all the lights in yor garage, if you have one, and see if there is any light coming thru.
If I have a rattle at idle, is this my DISA and will this cause P0171 codes?
Hey chief:
same problem as you: boot has big tear along that "elbow". Bought all 3 sections of the boots to replace but can't access the lower boot, there's a part in the way that I don't know what it is and didn't have the right key to remove its bolts... Do you know what I am talking about? How can I access the lower boot to unscrew the clamp, take i tout and replace with new boot? (e36; '01 Z3 3.0)
Please help;
Thanks in advance!
Z3EAGLE
Sounds like perhaps the DISA, which is a butterfly flap inserted into the intake manifold, with a rectangular control box mounted on the outside of the intake manifold. It's held in place by two Torx bolts - these are the six-point sockets.
If you don't have a set of Torx sockets or screwdrivers, you WILL need to get them if you expect to do any amount of work on this car. You can get an inexpensive set at an auto parts store or Harbor Freight.
If you have the replacement intake boot in hand, just use a hobby knife to cut the old boot off at the smaller hose, then remove the Idle Control Valve (the silver component to which the small hose is attached) so you can more easily access the hose clamp. Then reinstall the hose clamps with the screw head facing up so you can put it back together easily.
Just replaced my lower intake boot this weekend. And, like everyone has said, it was a B**** to take off the hose clamps - but i figured out that a 6mm wrench will do the trick too, if you don't have one of those snake-type screw drivers.
nhbwmguy,
Hhave you found out your problem yet? I a 03 325CI with 32xxx miles and have the same problem. Here are the following parts replaced:
maf
intake boot (both)
Valve cover gasket ( no leaks )
Checked the DISA and it works and looks great
cleaned intake mani
Did the oil cap trick and it changed the idle jus a bit
One thing I notice that it shuts off sometimes when I come to a turn slowly and rough/stumbling idle.
ANY HELP GUYS???
im a new proud (i think) owner of my first BMW 2001 330ci sweet black/ tan leather but ive got some issues to deal with car runs great while driving little rough idle at start up until it warms up i checked the codes with a reader and about freaked heres the list
po313
po300
po301
p1346
po174
p1349
p1353
p1351
po128
po171 i cant beleive that with all those codes the cars even running but it is do you think the boot replacement thing will take care of this or do i have more issues ,biggest thing im worried about is ive had the little gear light come on twice and reset it that scares me do you think a fluid change in the tranny will help that
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