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Thread: CONVERTIBLES 101: My _____ Doesnt Work. How Do I Fix It???

  1. #76
    Join Date
    Sep 2010
    Location
    Cape Town , South Africa
    Posts
    2
    My Cars
    1997 BMW E36 328i Conver
    This info has been sooo helpful . Thanks guys!!

  2. #77
    Join Date
    Jul 2010
    Location
    Llano, CA
    Posts
    2
    My Cars
    1999 328i convert-2001Z3
    I have a 99 328i convertible. Fuse #7 keeps blowing sometime between operations. I have replaced the fuse reset the top and operated the top four to five times with no problem. After driving the car for any length of time with the top up, the fuse blows. I have checked the wiring for the trunk lock and also the wiring for the anti-theft. The only other circuits on fuse 7. Anyone have any ideas? My BMW dealer couldn't find it either. I'm stumped

  3. #78
    Join Date
    Mar 2011
    Location
    san diego
    Posts
    25
    My Cars
    1998 M3 Convertible

    Another top question - tonneau will not close completely

    Hi All;

    I have read this thread and cannot see the answer to my question clearly so I will ask and hope someone can help me.

    My tops works mostly ok, but on the drivers side the tonneau does not close completely - sticks up maybe a half an inch. As a result, the trunk gets stuck on the back part of the tonneau when I go to open it. If I push the tonneau down, this rubbing does not happen.

    If I re-sync the top - will this help. It seems like it works but the drivers side just doesnt go down all the way and is not "flush" when its closed.

    Any other ideas or advice?

    Thanks

  4. #79
    Join Date
    Feb 2006
    Location
    UK
    Posts
    1,699
    My Cars
    1998 328 convertible

  5. #80
    Join Date
    Jun 2011
    Location
    Findlay, OH
    Posts
    7
    My Cars
    1992 BMW 325i Vert

    .pdf for replacing top motor?

    I cannot get the .pdf to open on how to replace a convertible top motor from the first post to this forum...I just purchased my first BMW, a 1992 325i convertible and am on cloud nine!! However, there is an issue with the top motor, and I do not know what I have gotten myself into to replace it, or get it replaced. Is this .pdf anywhere else on the forum?

    Is it possible to turn it into a manual top?

    Thanks, from a proud new BMW owner!!!

  6. #81
    Join Date
    Jul 2010
    Location
    Murrieta, CA
    Posts
    9,528
    My Cars
    '94 325iC, '08 328i, E93
    Did I find an error in the instructions to reset the top?

    There is a PDF floating around that describes the construction and repair of the convertible top. There is a section RE-CONNECTING THE DRIVE MOTORS, that says to pull Fuse 7 to disable the safety interlock for the trunk. On my car, I had to remove BOTH F7 and F43, both are 5A fuses. The trunk interlock was not disabled with the removal of either of these fuses, but was disabled with the removal of both of them.
    Last edited by JDStrickland; 07-11-2011 at 08:41 PM.

  7. #82
    Join Date
    Jun 2011
    Location
    Louisiana
    Posts
    220
    My Cars
    1994 BMW 325iC
    Updated link to the E36 Bentley manual here: http://www.mediafire.com/?m1b0ltgdhd6

    Downloaded and worked for me!

  8. #83
    Join Date
    Feb 2006
    Location
    UK
    Posts
    1,699
    My Cars
    1998 328 convertible

  9. #84
    Join Date
    Nov 2011
    Location
    OKC, OK
    Posts
    3
    My Cars
    1998 BMW 323i convertibl
    Apologies in advance if my searching has not been 100 percent diligent for an answer to this question, it's always in the last place you look...

    The top on my 323i is cantankerous at best, and I've gone through the reset steps to raise the top manually before when it stuck, but here is what it does now:

    When you press on the button to lower the top, all that happens is that all four windows lower in jerky, approximately-one-inch-at-a-time increments until they are completely down. Nothing else, end of story. The top itself does nothing at all and remains up and locked.

    Thanks for any assistance.

  10. #85
    Join Date
    Jul 2007
    Location
    Columbus, OH
    Posts
    385
    My Cars
    MK6 4dr GTI, LB7 Kodiak

    Question

    Quote Originally Posted by palomino View Post
    Storage Lid Hits Soft Top While Compartment Is Opening While Lowering Top
    You need to replace the Tension Straps in your car.
    Some people have also had good luck with using zipties to pinch off about 7cm of slack in the straps to shorten them.
    Replacing Tension Straps - See Post 1, 4th Attatchment
    Replace Or Assist Tension Straps with VelStretch


    just as reference / for clarification - this is what is meant here, correct ?
    (if not delete or move post, thanks)
    http://rides.webshots.com/video/3006...46866181YORDXC
    "I enter the wilderness with nothing but my journal and a childlike sense of wonder."

  11. #86
    Join Date
    Jun 2009
    Location
    South Carolina
    Posts
    31,073
    My Cars
    2004 330 vert 2004 X5

  12. #87
    Join Date
    Feb 2006
    Location
    UK
    Posts
    1,699
    My Cars
    1998 328 convertible

  13. #88
    Join Date
    Jul 2007
    Location
    Columbus, OH
    Posts
    385
    My Cars
    MK6 4dr GTI, LB7 Kodiak
    Quote Originally Posted by palomino View Post
    The Amazing Convertible Top PDFs
    General Info, Troubleshooting Microswitches
    http://bmwpages.co.uk/archive/e36_co...ble_adjust.pdf
    trying to contribute to the community be reporting bad link:

    Server not found
    Firefox can't find the server at bmwpages.co.uk.

    thanks again for all those supplying all the info and those maintaining this forum !!!
    "I enter the wilderness with nothing but my journal and a childlike sense of wonder."

  14. #89
    Join Date
    Jul 2011
    Location
    BC, Canada
    Posts
    26
    My Cars
    1997 328i Cabriolet

  15. #90
    Join Date
    Jan 2012
    Location
    Hempstead, new york, usa
    Posts
    117
    My Cars
    2001 BMW M3 Convertible
    I have a problem, I have a 97 318ic with a manual top. When I pull the,lever to release the decklid, the passenger side releases but not the driver side. How do I fix this?

  16. #91
    Join Date
    Aug 2006
    Location
    west bloomfield,mi.
    Posts
    36
    My Cars
    99 m3
    Your reply shows frown face and will not open.

  17. #92
    Join Date
    Jul 2010
    Location
    Bridgetown NS Canada
    Posts
    6
    My Cars
    1998 328I convertible

    turning e36 top into manual top

    I"ve heard that some folks strip off all the electrics, etc., and turn the top into a manual one. Is this feasible and can it be raised and lowered relatively easily?
    thanks for your advise.

  18. #93
    Join Date
    Dec 2005
    Location
    Central Valley, CA
    Posts
    2,905
    My Cars
    2011 328xi, E36 LS1
    Quote Originally Posted by Jimmie Jazz View Post
    From your description, it reads as if there are two issues; one which has caused the other. The ratcheting sound which occurs during the re-sync (or even so-called "normal") operation is the result of the primary drive gear splines on the motor side half of the Top Lid Drive Motor Assembly failing to fully insert into the Reduction Gearbox half of the assembly. Because the splines and gearset are not fully meshed, the drive gear splines will 'slip' or 'ratchet' against the reduction gearset's teeth. All gears are steel and are very substantial. It is unlikely that the gears themselves will ever fail.

    The two halves of the Top Lid Drive Motor assembly are connected by a sprung hinge, which allows the motor side to disengage from the reduction gears (The reduction gears rotate the linkage arm and tension the Bowden cables connected to the Top Lid latches) when the emergency lever is pulled.

    Frequently, when the rear bow of the convertible top does not attain full upward travel when lowering the top, the Top Lid will strike the rear bow when opening, since the rear bow did not move far enough out of the Top Lid's travel arc. The reason that the rear bow does not move out of the way is because the tension straps are fatigued. This is how fatigued tension straps have caused the failure of the Top Lid drive mechanism. (One issue causing another.)

    The resistance to upward travel of the Top Lid (provided by the impact/friction between the rear bow and the front edge of the Top Lid) places a great amount of stress/torque on the Top Lid, which translates back through the linkage to the Top Lid Motor assembly, bending the Motor side housing of the assembly. This happens because the motor continues to turn even though the linkage stops traveling (due to the Top Lid hitting the rear bow). The motor side of the assembly pushes itself away from the reduction gear half of the assembly while the emergency release 'latch' remains engaged, which bends the flange where the latch hooks.

    BMW would prefer that you purchase a new assembly, yet with careful work and patience, this can be avoided.

    It is necessary to remove the Top Lid drive motor assembly (4 nuts, 2 Bowden cable clips, 1 Bowden cable dual binding clip, 1 linkage clip, 1 release cable nut, 1 wire bundle strap and 1 electrical connector) before you can attempt bending the assembly back to as near as original shape as possible. I suggest warming the steel before attempting to re-bend, as it appears very brittle. Bend in small amounts, preferably using a vice, until the portion of the flange where the emergency release hook (slot) engages is on the same plane as the rest of the flange. This will make sense when you see the bent assembly. The bend is not visible until the assembly has been removed. Once re-bending is complete, test the engagement/release function of the emergency release mechanism to ensure proper operation. Note that the drive splines of the motor now insert into the reduction gear side of the assembly by a more significant amount, which does not allow the gears to slip, which was where the 'ratcheting' noise was coming from.

    Reinstall the assembly and connect the linkage, cables and electrical connector. Close the trunk and perform the resync procedure.

    Now that the mechanical function of the top Lid has been restored, you must resolve the tension strap issue or this will happen again. See other posts in this section for more information on tension straps and possible work-arounds to complete replacement. If you had already recently resolved the tension strap issue, the damage was apparently already done and the drive gears were barely engaging, and finally slipped.

    Good luck; this will save you approximately $450. (USD) from the avoidance of purchasing a new drive unit, with nearly the same amount in labor.
    Great info, you just saved my ass! Some pictures to clarify what he is talking about.

    The motor in the car, you can see the various cables you need to detach:




    The bent part is the part that the motor attaches to:



    Here you can see some exposed motor gear due to the steel plate not letting the motor close all the way:



  19. #94
    Join Date
    Sep 2012
    Location
    collierville, tn, usa
    Posts
    14
    My Cars
    1999 328

    199 328ic top only opens half way lid stays shut

    All thanks for the posts i thought this issue had something to do with the trunk lock but i tried it in both positions and the top is still only going back until the lid needs to pop open which it is not...

    what's first? no problems until now.

    thanks

  20. #95
    Join Date
    Jan 2013
    Location
    Las Vegas, NV
    Posts
    1
    My Cars
    1996 328i convertible
    someone PLEASE help? First, my apologies if I am posting this to an incorrect spot. I have searched the forum for assistance, and it can be a bit overwhelming. I have a 96 328i convertible. Vert top didn't work when I purchased it used last year. Learned how to open it manually when we were replacing the rear shocks and springs. Never did get the tonneau cover to lock again. My thought is that is why I have such horrible noises, squeaks and clunks coming from the backend :-). This morning got tired of the noises, so I manually opened the top, re-engaged the motors, checked all fuses (including by the battery), and performed the motor reset per the Millertime DIY video. The tonneau cover lowered completely and locked, but the top never started the "closing" sequence. Now I can't get the tonneau cover to open so I can close the top manually. I wouldn't mind driving with the top down, except it is January and about 40 degrees here in Vegas. I travel for my job, and have to drive to the airport at 4 am on Tuesday, so I would really like to get this top up. Anyone help?

  21. #96
    Join Date
    Aug 2013
    Location
    Oceanside, CA
    Posts
    9
    My Cars
    1995 325IS, 1998 328IC
    Thanks Palomino, this is a great resource!
    Unfortunately, I have a problem I haven't seen mentioned by anyone else on any thread.
    My top opens and closes fine(I've done the tension strap fix and replaced tonneau struts), but the rear unseals itself just as the front is latching down and locking into place.
    Here's a video that shows what I'm talking about: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gXVH3...ature=youtu.be
    I appreciate any help or advice that anyone can share

  22. #97
    Join Date
    Feb 2007
    Location
    greenwood sc
    Posts
    395
    My Cars
    1999 m3 convertible 5spd
    A big thanks to this thread! I just got a 99 m3. Top is in near perfect condition, but it needed some assistance going up and down. Top banged lid, wouldn't go into compartment all the way, etc. With the help of this thread I was able to reinforce the tension strap with some bungee cord (curious how long this will last) and replaced the lid struts. Works perfect now. All fixed for less than $50!

  23. #98
    Join Date
    May 2014
    Location
    Belgium
    Posts
    3
    My Cars
    1994 320I vert
    Nice tread and a good read so far!

    small question for you guys that I haven't been able to solve myself. I have a 94 vert with factory hardtop. Since a few weeks whenever I place the hardtop back on the left red handle to secure the hardtop to the body hasn't been able to close complete to the right position. I think the mount is slightly bent/croocked, is there an easy fix for this? The other red lever closes just fine as does the front mount.

  24. #99
    Join Date
    Jul 2014
    Location
    United States
    Posts
    8
    My Cars
    1999 328I Vert
    so I have reset and straightened the motors and the plate and now the top went open all the way and first and when it fits to open it to store the top it does nothing. ..Any ideas?

  25. #100
    Join Date
    Nov 2014
    Location
    Los Angeles
    Posts
    3
    My Cars
    1999 BMW 323ic
    Here's a tough one...

    After disengaging the full-auto convertible motors in my 323i, and giving my wrist a workout turning the windshield socket with an allen wrench, the soft-top refuses to fold back. Specifically, the right half of the soft-top frame which appears to be stuck in a locked position. The left side is flexible, with the frame hinges properly bent, and the hook that grasps onto the windshield is open. In contrast, the right side is rigid, with the frame hinges locked straight, and the grasping hook is folded closed (as if it were locked into the windshield). Any idea what's keeping the right side locked, and how I can release it?



    UPDATE: I figured it out. I'll give a detailed explanation so that anyone stuck in the same situation will hopefully benefit from my experience. I removed the plastic cover from the fully-automatic top motor on my convertible soft-top, and found the problemm... As with all fully-auto 323i convertibles, when the motor inside the soft-top breaks, you have to MANUALLY lock/unlock, and raise/lower the soft-top to and from the windshield. This is done by inserting an allen-wrench into a socket on the motor itself - found under a small panel on the roof were the soft-top meets the windshield - and turning the socket enough times to justify buying an electric screwdriver. Turning the motor's socket left or right will either loosen or tighten a tension cable that runs through the inside of the soft-top, locking or releasing the soft-top's latches from the windshield, as well as locking or releasing the hinges of the soft-top frame (keeping it stiff when up, and flexible when down).

    To cut to the chase... while turning the manual socket of the top motor, the tension cable inside the soft-top quietly snapped and tangled inside. The result was the left half of my soft-top frame stuck in the top up and locked position, while the right half was stuck in the top down and unlocked flexible position.

    I have 3 options...

    1. Salvage a tension cable from another 323i convertible soft-top (BMW doesn't sell just the tension cable alone).

    2. Replace the entire soft-top motor system (new is $700-800, according to my mechanic).

    3. Find someone to convert the fully-automatic soft-top into a semi-automatic soft-top (by replacing the top motor system with the manual version built for the previous convertible model). I have read enough mixed reviews about this option in these forums to shy away from it.

    Anyway, I hope this helps anyboy who finds themselves in the same position.
    Last edited by claydogg; 11-24-2014 at 10:13 PM. Reason: Found the problem.

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