I bought my 95 325ic with the top disengaged because it was only working intermittently. I use zip ties to hold down the tunnel lid. Then I started re-engaging the motors to hold the tunnel lid down so it didn't rattle. Now I can't get the tunnel lid to disengage and need help. It seems to be related to the arm-clamp on the tunnel motor, but I can't figure out what it needs to do. The motor is disengaged (hinges freely), but the lid is sealed tight.
Thanks for the help.
by the way thanks for all the sticky topics, I far prefer to read and search than post, but I came up empty on this one.
This is precisely my problem too. I tried to take apart the panel, but I didn't trust myself enough to make sure everything got back in its original position. Like sliceolime said, the hard cover motor just won't re-engage with the female gear on the inside of the panel, and I didn't have a tool (like, right angle pliers or something) that can rotate the gear significantly enough to mesh the gears. This is really frustrating, especially because one of the 4 bolts that attaches the panel to the quarter panel fell into the bottom of the quarter panel and I couldn't get it out. There's a local BMW repair place near me, but I feel like they would just tear into the panel and charge me ridiculous amounts for something I could do, but didn't. Is there any other possible way to re-engage the hard cover motor??So your issue is solely getting the motor drive cog back in? You may need to remove the panel it sits on, to get better access to it, so that you can sync the gear better for it to fit. also, you could try releasing the motors again,moving the hood compartment a little, re-engadge the motor and very gently move the compartment until the gear sits, then try re setting again. This will at least prove the cog will actually interface properly.
Michael
Yes! Where is this fuse!? I've only seen one picture of it posted and I haven't found it anywhere!! It's supposed to be a 20A somewhere around or near the battery. I've got the fuses, can't find the flippin' fuse to replace it! Pictures please.
Florida_Guy we've been having the same issues. The lid works, but the convertible top is still dead to the world. I was thinking it was the S4 switch, but now I'm really thinking it has to do with the engaging of the soft top motor. Everything I've read says engage the top motor then the lid...I'll try the opposite just to see if the top will work.
My fully auto top has a few issues.I've done the re-sync.I found the lid motor just takes some force to make it mesh.That and the lever has to be all the way down for it to re-engage.
1..when the lid comes up it gets stuck on the top and stops.I have to get out and free both side.
2..After that the top goes right on back about halfway and stops.Motors are running.I have to give it a shove with the motors running and it will fall down.
3..the top won't compress enough in the trunk to let the lid close.
4..Everything will come right back up and latch though.
Any ideas guys?
99 328ic
Thank God my top is still working, although I am experiencing the dreaded "non-full retracting lid" problem.
Do you recommend dealer service for this problem?
Last edited by Hammonddave; 12-01-2008 at 05:32 PM. Reason: Automerged Doublepost
Hi all, new to the forums but been reading every post on fixing the vert roof there is for 2 days to no avail. Wondering if anyone can help.
Firstly i have a 98 fully automatic highline. I have gotten as far as below:
(Taken from the pdf)
EM TOP EMERGENCY OPERATIONIn the event of electrical failure, the top can be raised manually. The procedure is as follows:
• Pull the release lever located under the left rear
seat cushion as shown.
• Both motors are disconnected from the gear
drives.
• The top storage cover is unlocked.NOTE:The top can not be lowered again until electrical power is restored to the system.
This is due to the fact that the top storage cover can not be locked until power is restored.
RE-CONNECTING DRIVE MOTORSDue to the interlock of the trunk lid an unlocked top storage cover, the following procedure
must be followed to reconnect the top drive motors, to restore electrical operation:
• Lower all the side windows with the central switch
• Unlock the top from the windshield frame, raise it over the tension point and open the storage cover.
• Lower the top into the storage compartment and close the storage cover.
The top roof wont lower into the storage compartment!! The rear tension bars have released and my window can be pulled up manually and as the DIY video shows you just lower it down...mine wont budge at all. It rocks but moves nowhere but wont move past the tension point at all, now it wont go back towards the window locks either without seriously weight. I fear i have caught it in limbo half between and wrecked something...
I was thinking maybe its one of the rear micro switches (s6,7,8 perhaps) and they have to be disengaged before the top will fold at all? I have had help in trying to fold it away, but it will bend (break) before it will fold naturally.
Anyone have any ideas? Once its in the compartment i am confident i can re-sync and get it working again. Thanks in advance!!
Put the motors back in, re-synced, stopped the top halfway down and tucked the the window in good, readjusted a couple of things and, wallah! Worked perfectly! COuld never have done it with out this forum. Thanks everyone!
Thanks everyone! Great sticky thread! I appreciate everyone's help on here, I was able to fix my top without pulling any hair out.
The vert lid gets caught on the hinge mechanism when being retracted. The top hinge has to be pushed forward in order to release the lid so that the top will continue to retract into the vert receptacle. Where on here is the sticky for adjusting the straps so that the hinges move further forward so as not to bind with the lid?
e36_convertible_adjust.pdf (application/pdf Object)
I think this is what you dudes are looking for!!!
Hope it helps
Dan,
BMW E36 Resetting The Convertible Top | Free eBook Download
hope it helps
Dan,
Last edited by Hounddoggin; 08-04-2010 at 08:17 AM. Reason: Automerged Doublepost
1995 BMW 328i ragtop
2011 BMW 335i xdrive
So I have a very similar issue as many here have discussed--my tonneau lid motor wont reengage. It All began when my tonneau lid motor started making that often discussed chattering noise for 12 seconds and the top would not go down. After Disengaging and resynching the top and the tonneau lid motors, it still made the grinding noise and top wouldnt work.
Then I removed the tonneau lid motor (one closest to the left tail light), and found that the silver mounting plate was indeed slightly bent which is often a reason for the problem at issue. I Straightened it out as straight as I could and reinstalled the motor. When I went to renengage that motor, it wouldnt. I Tried tracing and reversing all the steps I took and no go.
Aside from replacing the tonneau lid motor, anyone out there have thoughts on what else can be done to troubleshoot this?
So I have a very similar issue as many here have discussed--my tonneau lid motor wont reengage. It All began when my tonneau lid motor started making that often discussed chattering noise for 12 seconds and the top would not go down. After Disengaging and resynching the top and the tonneau lid motors, it still made the grinding noise and top wouldnt work.
Then I removed the tonneau lid motor (one closest to the left tail light), and found that the silver mounting plate was indeed slightly bent which is often a reason for the problem at issue. I Straightened it out as straight as I could and reinstalled the motor. When I went to renengage that motor, it wouldnt. I Tried tracing and reversing all the steps I took and no go.
Aside from replacing the tonneau lid motor, anyone out there have thoughts on what else can be done to troubleshoot this?
Last edited by zipaquira; 09-24-2010 at 03:52 PM. Reason: Automerged Doublepost
You know how much of a pain it is to manually disengage the top from the windshield, right?
If you've done it as many times as I have, you can get quite annoyed by this.
My solution is to use a battery-powered screwdriver or drill with an allen bit. It makes adjusting tops quite a bit easier. I think it's a 4mm bit, but it should be easy enough to get something like this.
Another thing I use is 1-gal bottles of water to hold down the top or the lid while I am adjusting things in the trunk.
'98 M3 Convertible
Cosmos Automatic
Diamond Audio/Alpine/Sony ES HU sound
Mishimoto radiator and hoses
Motion Motorsport underpanel
BMW CCA #387533 - join today and save on everything related to your BMW - http://www.bmwcca.org
Know your rights when it comes to dealing with police - http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yqMjMPlXzdA
Flat battery with the roof up, now new battery and the obvious "nothing happens" syndrome with the roof.
Tried everything, but it occurs to me that Ive been trying it all with the roof still up, will try manually lowering the roof and trying again in the morning.
Could BMW have made this any more difficult?
Will post the results tomorrow
That makes sense NOT !
OK, If your roof is UP when the battery goes flat and you then do all the emergency release and re-engage motor process, absolutely bloody nothing happens, it does not reset at all.
BUT
Manually lower the roof, then do all the motor re-engage stuff and voila it damn well works.......
There must be some stupid BMW thing that means you need the roof down to reset everything, easy when you know that, but truly annoying when you dont
First time I tried synchronizing both A & B motors, I got stuck at the "B" motor because it will not re-engage.
If you are having problem re-engaging the "B" motor, simply slide a screw driver or something equivalent from the bracket and pry it down hard (make sure the screw driver tip is right underneath the motor) while pulling the motor towards you by hand. This should help the motor to snap in and re-engage.
See below picture in yellow arrow. Hope this helps.
1995 M60B40
No joy in mudville, Casey has struck out! I followed your very good video to the letter, several times. But no matter how many times I've tried, each time the cover sucks in nicely but then I can't get the top to go up. The only difference I can see is that my car is a '96 not a '97. Would that make any difference?
- - - Updated - - -
Did you put weight on the top cover (passenger side)before you re-engaged the top cover motor? The weight must be enough to activate the switch that releases the trunk lid lock out.
To make the red light stop blinking you need to disconnect and reconnect some cable in the trunk. Can't remember exactly WHICH cable. But it's near the motor area on the left side.
@GaBr No you can't because the top uses one motor to lock down on the windshield. However, if that motor breaks you can use an allen key I believe and turn the motor a bunch of times so it disengages/engages to the windshield. Just remove the plastic cover and you'll see it. Has two arms that twist. Once you do that you can disengage rear motors by pulling red lever under rear seats, then you can drop the top. Once the top is down put some weight on the tonneau cover (you won't be able to open your trunk if you don't) and engage the motors so it locks the tonneau cover in place. Or else it will open while you are driving.
If you want to get rid of the stupid motor that locks the top to the windshield you can convert it to a manual using older e36 convertible parts, it will bolt right in. I can sell you the part actually if you're interested.
Last edited by ilikemycar; 04-08-2017 at 06:24 AM.
In “fully manual”, how does the tonneau cover get locked when the top is down? I assume both motors are disengaged
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