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Thread: 528i M52 cooling system bleeding, overhaul, overheating

  1. #201
    Join Date
    May 2010
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    Tacoma,WA,USA
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    My Cars
    1999 BMW 528i Sport
    Hello. I think I better start at the beginning. A few weeks ago I started noticing a squeel develop intermittenly. No difference in temp of engine or heater settings on those occasions. Driving at higher RPM seemed to stop it.

    When I listened under the hood it seemed like it was coming from the steering pump ( just to the right of where the water pump is). I figured it was that since I have the famous leaky hoses from the resevoir. My wife had had the car for a month and I had forgotten to check on the ATF levels during that time. The resevoir was empty so I refilled it.

    The squeek was still there.

    I bought a new pump went through all of the install proceedures and still had the squeel.

    It hadn't changed and the day before my heater quit working. It would blow out cold air till I got to 60 MPH then heat up but, not fully. I noticed the resevoir for the radiator was empty so I filled it up. Heater came back on and the squeel changed slightly.

    I came on here and found the posts for thermostats (since it effected my heater thats what I thought it was) and replaced mine. I then followed the instructions for bleeding the system which worked fine. I started and drove the car and it was silent. Woo Hoo!!

    That evening I got in to go to the store and the squeel was back. I opened the expansion tank and it was empty again. I figured this was inherent in the bleeding process so I redid the bleed. This time the squeel didn't go away until a short drive was taken. Heater worked the whole time.

    It has been 3 days since then and I have had to put coolant in the resevior and bleed each day. When the car gets hot after a long drive I can see steam coming from under the hood but, when I open it I can't find the source. I have checked all of the hoses and connections and still am at a loss.

    I read the part about the expansion tanks failing and will look into that. I also read a post where they said it might be a blown head gasket.

    My question is if it is a blown head gasket what is the fastest way to identify the problem? I figured I could pull the oil level guage and look for milky oil but it looks fine on the stick and under the filler cap. And if the water isn't going to the block where is it going?

    Second is what could be causing the squeel? It usually does go away but, is really embarassing until that point. Could it be the water pump?

    I just don't understand where the coolant is going since it isn't leaving puddles and the oil looks fine on the stick.... I figure I might need to change it to see for sure but, thought you all would know best!! Any thoughts would be greatly appreciated. Thanks in advance!!

  2. #202
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    May 2010
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    Tacoma,WA,USA
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    My Cars
    1999 BMW 528i Sport
    Steam.... It all went up in steam... From a $16(really a .50 cent rubber O-Ring) radiator cap... I couldn't believe after all of the parts I've replaced (and I know it should have been one of the 1st...) checked, triple checked, advise, yada yada, it turns out to be the cap.

    I want to start off by apologizing to all of you out there!! If you have a leak that you can't find look under you radiator cap. There is a rubber o-ring on the top of the threads that either gets pushed up the guy at Autozone told me or damaged as mine was when he showed me where to look. Please look at this small thing and possibly save yourself some of my stress!! Thanks for the detailed post. It got me to a place where I could eventually stop the leak!!

  3. #203
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    Dec 2011
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    sagamore beach, ma.
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    1997 bmw 528i

    Coolant system mysteries

    You have provided a very helpfull source for BMW noobies and vets.
    I am having some problems and wish to get back to the way things should be in this car.i used to be a BMW tech years and years ago. That does not help with the coolant system of these cars. I decided that someone must know more about it than I do so bit the bullet and went to the dealer. I interviewed the service master and then got a chance for a meet and greet with the head mechanic. They were all very nice to me and I had confidence that they knew what they were doing. A couple of weeks went buy, and I, who used to be in the business, did not want to pressure them. Give them respect for what they do ...I said to myself. They would call when they had something to say.
    NOPE. No word from them. I tried calling under my wife's frantic insistence. Could not get through to anyone that would at least return my call. Finally someone got back to me...the assistant to an assistant service manager who proceeded to give me a song and dance story of how busy they got and did not start on the car right away as the appointment I had waited for to open assured me it would. I had originally told them that I kind of knew my way around cars, so they could talk technically with me and I would understand. I felt that this information would also keep them from giving me a bull%#? reply to any questions I had.
    I told them that I was having trouble with my climate control, and had done some research on checking it out. I told them that I didn't have the tools and electronic meters to check it out and THAT is the reason I was trusting them with my car. My instructions to them was that they were to check out and repair or replace my climate control system in my 1997 528i. Their reply was that they would have to completely check out everything that I had already checked out...pressure check the system...inspect all hoses and connections...check for bleeding problems...check for coolant leaks of any kind...change the thermostat...change the housing to the new aluminum one..and on and on. Sooooo the first thing they did was to change the thermostat. Ok...I am a fairly patient guy, and was willing to once again give them the respect of holding more current knowledge than me about my car. Maybe the one that had been changed was not working....again. They then called me and said that they had changed the thermostat and that I really should change the belts while everything was apart. Smiled to myself with the realization that this is what you get whe you go to a dealer. The belts were not new that we're on my car, but I figured...go ahead...show them I have confidence in them.
    The uprising in Egypt started. It was a full week AFTER the uprising ended that I was able to contact someone who was in charge who could answere all my now angry, frustrated and impatient questions about what the hell did you do to my car? I had to go through BMW USA to accomplish this contact. Spoke to a nice, sweet young lady that felt terrible about my experience. She made a call, an from there on the contact was much better.
    In the niciest tones he could use, the gentleman(assistant service manager) that the car was ready, but he did not think it would make it home in the condition that it was in!
    "Your radiator is no good. It is so bad that the hose cannot be connected solidly to the deteriorated and rotted connection, he said with remorse.
    "HOWEVER," he said, "because you are a kind of brother to us, what with your having been a mechanic, I am going to help you out."He continued, " I know a guy in warranty. Your car with 130,000 miles is certainly off warranty, but I think I can pull this of."
    "We are going to replace your radiator or free."
    "We have to wait for clearance on this, but I think we can get it done."
    You should have your car by the end of the week. There will be a small charge for installation , but that $600 radiator will be free!"
    I was furious . I had all I could do to stay polite on the phone. I was afraid if I did not accept the lameness of this pronouncement that a completely good radiator was now suddenly deteriorated and rotted, that I would never get the car back in running shape,I would be faced with towing and then courts and
    lawyers. My only plan had to be to get the car back...pay any bill I had, then take them to court once I had assessed just what they had done to my car.
    I went up and picked it up with gritted teeth. He felt my anger, but no words were spoken. No apologies no nothing!
    I drove it home . I openned the hood and found a new radiator...new shroud..new clutch fan..new top hose. Not counting the internal things they changed. Looked to me like they simply dropped a screw driver into a running fan and probably punctured the radiator and damaged the shrewd and other new parts that were visible with no reason to have been replaced. $1400 to fix it and a month later the problem came back. That was after I replace my now leaking transmission cooler that was somehow mysteriously leaking from a damaged nut.
    The rattle that I had to stop on the highway for a week after I got it back, was simply the cruise control that had fallen of and was now wedged down near the steering colum. The nuts had been left off when they removed it to change the auxiliary water pump.
    My auxiliary fan does not work now, and I am currently trying to figure out why. I came to your thread in hopes of I getting a picture of the location of the water temperature sensor that is supposed to be, as your diagram shows, on the bottom hose of the radiator, but is not there. I think that it is now sticking out of the passenger side of the radiator about a third of the way up. At least I think that it is my water temperature sensor switch ...need that info if you have a link for that. Looks like they put a radiator in that fitted but is not the one it should be, thus the missing water temp switch on the bottom hose attachment.
    Thought you would be entertained by this absurd journey to an authorized BMW dealer. I will go back to text school at the age of 64, before ever going near that or any other dealer again. ......I feel better now!

  4. #204
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    1998 528i 5-spd 102K
    Quote Originally Posted by jadetree View Post
    ...My auxiliary fan does not work now, and I am currently trying to figure out why. I came to your thread in hopes of I getting a picture of the location of the water temperature sensor that is supposed to be, as your diagram shows, on the bottom hose of the radiator, but is not there. I think that it is now sticking out of the passenger side of the radiator about a third of the way up. At least I think that it is my water temperature sensor switch ...need that info if you have a link for that. Looks like they put a radiator in that fitted but is not the one it should be, thus the missing water temp switch on the bottom hose attachment.
    Thought you would be entertained by this absurd journey to an authorized BMW dealer. I will go back to text school at the age of 64, before ever going near that or any other dealer again. ......I feel better now!
    The 1997 and 1998 have different setup than 1999-2003 models.

    I wrote a cooling overhaul for a 1998 528i, which is identical to your 1997 528i:
    http://bimmerboard.com/forums/posts/199986

    Yes, the temp sensor sits on the radiator itself. But usually when the sensor goes bad, the aux fan runs all the time.

    You have the opposite problem: aux fan does not run.
    - So check the ebox (under passenger side cabin filter area) for the relay/fuse
    - Or the fan may be dead. A new fan assembly is expensive.
    You may get away with changing ONLY the electric motor, see the post by PENER:
    http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum...d.php?t=605750

    The problem is SIEMENS PM9047 is no longer available. You may have to do some searching to find out what motor (e.g. Four Seasons brand) fits.

  5. #205
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    Oct 2006
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    '98 E39, '12 Honda Pilot
    Newb question, sorry.

    Had my indy re-do my cooling system at/around 100K. My '98 528i is now approaching 200K - is it wise to have the system overhauled again as a preventative measure? wife/kids use the vehicle frequently and would not want them to get stranded anywhere. no signs of any failure at this time.

    thanks in advance
    Last edited by WHAT?; 08-16-2012 at 12:25 AM.

  6. #206
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    Quote Originally Posted by WHAT? View Post
    Newb question, sorry.

    Had my indy re-do my cooling system at/around 100K. My '98 528i is now approaching 200K - is it wise to have the system overhauled again as a preventative measure? wife/kids use the vehicle frequently and would not want them to get stranded anywhere. no signs of any failure at this time.

    thanks in advance
    I would seriously consider it if I were you.
    >'97 528i, 200000 miles, Hella Xenons, 17" Stilauto wheels, Vogtland Drop Springs, Dynomax Race Muffler, Homelink, 540 brake upgrade, 15mm spacers >'65 & '74 MG Midgets BFC OT Lego Club #48 Manual conversion in process!!!



  7. #207
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    Quote Originally Posted by NNY528I View Post
    I would seriously consider it if I were you.
    +1!

  8. #208
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    San Francisco Ca
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    97 840c & 540I6 90 535im
    Has anyone struggled with a bad sensor? I have replaced radiator,water pump and now today the thermostat and housing. Hopefully it was the thermostat that would make this problem occur which is a temp gauge going up to red and back down immediately sometimes staying hot fpr a minute or two.pull over shut off car and start again in a minute and back to 12 oclock position.BTW thanks Greg (e39dream) I have used this thread many times.
    97 840ci-99 540i6-90 535i5 all black

  9. #209
    Join Date
    Nov 2011
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    I bought a thermostat, and housing and an o ring from the stealer today.

    There is a rubber gasket on the housing and the o ring is for the the thermostat. I feel like this isn't enough and im missing a gasket for the whole mating surface of the block and thermostat housing.

    Does anyone know?

  10. #210
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    Nov 2011
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    So I spoke with a parts guy and the gasket in the diagram IS the orange one in housing.

    I installed my t stat, housing, and a water pump, last night, filled and bled. Drove around for a bit bled a lil more. Passed out drove to work today no problems.

    When I was coming home I made a few stops and saw my temp rising, I immediately pulled into a parking lot and bled a bit of air.

    Went home and drank a beer and started doing the rev to 3k for a 3 Minutes and bleed more a few times. Hopefully I got all the air out of the system, and do not have a leak.

    It anyone else has any input lemme know if not hopefully someone can get some insight out of my experience.

    Time for more beer.

  11. #211
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    Turns out I had a leak in my radiator by the upper hose. After building a pressure testing unit out of some of my beer making equipment, I quickly found the leak and had a fresh radiator within the hour and dropped her right in.

  12. #212
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    Quote Originally Posted by NNY528I View Post
    I would seriously consider it if I were you.

    I'd like to get some opinions from the vets in this forum.

    Assuming that I consider:
    - Oil change = 1 out of 10 on difficulty scale
    - Brake pads/rotors = 2 out of 10 on difficulty scale
    - Complete engine rebuild = 10 out of 10

    Going back to your first time doing a complete cooling overhaul, how would you rate this job?

    Have studied the DIY's intensely and it would appear to me that the two biggest challenges are:
    (1) Removing fan clutch [lots of debate over screwdriver+wrench technique vs buying the tool]
    (2) bleeding the system thoroughly after completion

    Thanks in advance for the opinion. Leaning towards tackling this job myself.

  13. #213
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    Nov 2012
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    97 BMW 528i E9

    Unhappy Please help my Solve the Mystery of the Overheating

    Hi I own a 97 528i that was given to me with overheating problems. Before I received it the water pump and thermostat was replaced but it was overheating still do to the fan shroud being cracked and fan clutch was faulty. So I replaced both yet still was overheating so I flushed the system out and that did it BUT, I did not insert the drain plug properly so my antifreeze leaked out on my way to work on day. Come to find out that caused a my head gasket to warp a little but not enough to put water in my oil. I put some blue devil in to seal it and I ran good for a month and so than the water pump went bad again I replace that and added more blue devil because I flushed the old out, then replace the thermostat after that. The other day I bleed the system with the car off appose to doing it while running and it ran good for about 20 miles when I got close to home it started to sky rocket. I pulled over soon as I stopped it jump back to normal. I made it home and the next day I when I drove it started to climb I puled over and cut the car off. After 5mins it returned to normal but proceed to go up if I moved. The antifreeze also was escaping from the overflow top. I ran the car before to check to see if there are any leaks which there are none and all the pieces been replace not at the same time but close. I do not think it's head gasket at least I don't think it is cause theres is no smoke coming out my tailpipe and no water in my oil. The only thing I can think of is air is getting in from some where and my one lead is the overflow hose had some relations with the belt and has been rubbing against it. Its a small dent in it but not big enough to leak antifreeze but maybe allow air in IDK. Please someone give me your prognosis because i'm at the point where I'm gonna just scarp it for parts its just to stressful

  14. #214
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    Quote Originally Posted by jinx00723 View Post
    Hi I own a 97 528i that was given to me with overheating problems. Before I received it the water pump and thermostat was replaced but it was overheating still do to the fan shroud being cracked and fan clutch was faulty. So I replaced both yet still was overheating so I flushed the system out and that did it BUT, I did not insert the drain plug properly so my antifreeze leaked out on my way to work on day. Come to find out that caused a my head gasket to warp a little but not enough to put water in my oil. I put some blue devil in to seal it and I ran good for a month and so than the water pump went bad again I replace that and added more blue devil because I flushed the old out, then replace the thermostat after that. The other day I bleed the system with the car off appose to doing it while running and it ran good for about 20 miles when I got close to home it started to sky rocket. I pulled over soon as I stopped it jump back to normal. I made it home and the next day I when I drove it started to climb I puled over and cut the car off. After 5mins it returned to normal but proceed to go up if I moved. The antifreeze also was escaping from the overflow top. I ran the car before to check to see if there are any leaks which there are none and all the pieces been replace not at the same time but close. I do not think it's head gasket at least I don't think it is cause theres is no smoke coming out my tailpipe and no water in my oil. The only thing I can think of is air is getting in from some where and my one lead is the overflow hose had some relations with the belt and has been rubbing against it. Its a small dent in it but not big enough to leak antifreeze but maybe allow air in IDK. Please someone give me your prognosis because i'm at the point where I'm gonna just scarp it for parts its just to stressful
    I would start by going to this thread

    http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum....php?t=1423821

    And following the bleeding procedure presented there to the letter. That is the procedure endorsed by BMW and presented in all thief technical documents. If after following those instructions you are still having issues then we can take additional steps. At this point I am inclined to think you have a leak somewhere or are not bleeding the system correctly.
    >'97 528i, 200000 miles, Hella Xenons, 17" Stilauto wheels, Vogtland Drop Springs, Dynomax Race Muffler, Homelink, 540 brake upgrade, 15mm spacers >'65 & '74 MG Midgets BFC OT Lego Club #48 Manual conversion in process!!!



  15. #215
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    Quote Originally Posted by NNY528I View Post
    I would start by going to this thread



    And following the bleeding procedure presented there to the letter. That is the procedure endorsed by BMW and presented in all thief technical documents. If after following those instructions you are still having issues then we can take additional steps. At this point I am inclined to think you have a leak somewhere or are not bleeding the system correctly.


    Yes this is the procedure I did the other day and it was running great until I got home it started to heat up again. There is no leaks anywhere only place it leaks is from the the over cap when it gets hot. I think air is getting in from somewhere.

  16. #216
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    2004 BMW 325i Touring
    My car is an 03 E39 525i, 62K miles there is a crack on the joint of the expansion tank. Is there a write up on how I can replace the tank? Do I need to order anything else aside form just the tank housing? Any help is appreciated
    Last edited by Guam135i; 02-13-2013 at 07:20 PM.

    1973 Clubman GT * 2008 BMW X1 * 2004 BMW 325i Touring* 2000 Honda S2000 *
    2016 Mazda Mx5 Club Sport

  17. #217
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    BMW 528i

    Thumbs up E39 OVERHEATING & SAVED BY NNY528I's POST & Video

    Quote Originally Posted by NNY528I View Post
    I would start by going to this thread

    (Sorry, bimmerforums wouldn't let me post url, just check NNY528I's POSTINGS)


    And following the bleeding procedure presented there to the letter. That is the procedure endorsed by BMW and presented in all thief technical documents. If after following those instructions you are still having issues then we can take additional steps. At this point I am inclined to think you have a leak somewhere or are not bleeding the system correctly.
    I wanted to write and say THANKS to NNY528i for the post regarding the correct bleeding procedure. I had my E39 (1997 528i) in for servicing at a local independent BMW shop, and had the thermostat, thermostat housing, hoses, tensioner pully, serpentine belt, and power steering pump replaced.

    I got the car back and after a few days from picking it up, it started overheating. After seeing NNY528I's post and video, I asked them if it could be an air in the coolant issue and need to be bled? The mechanic said there shouldn't be a problem with that and said they'd check it out.

    I had them look at the car to find out what was wrong, and they re-did the thermostat, thermostat housing. I picked up the car days later and about 90miles more of test drives on the odometer from shop, and drove 10 miles and it started overheating again!

    I was towed at the shop's expense, and later I called and said to the mechanic that I really think it's a bleeding issue. They said they'd look into it.

    I again called later speaking to the shop's "Service Advisor" and went on about the research I had done regarding the overheating issue, and what I had read about E39's (specifically 1997 528i), and that there are many different pieces of advice about bleeding but that there is a YouTube Video that shows how to bleed with no more overheating issues (THANKS AGAIN NNY528i ! You KICK ASS! You are a ROCKSTAR and A huge life saver and $$$ saver! THANKS A MILLION!).

    I EMAILED THE INDEPENDENT BMW SHOP (that has been in business 24yrs servicing exclusively BMW) THE POST BY NNY528I (ALONG WITH YOUTUBE LINK), and 2 hours later they called me and said it was fixed!!!!

    I picked it up and asked what was the problem? They said "It was a bleeding issue" . . . . "This car apparently needs more bleeding than most BMW's".

    NNY528I, THANK YOU. YOU REALLY SAVED MY CAR AND ME.

    CHEERS MY FRIEND!

  18. #218
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    I just wanted to say "Thank you" to the OP as well as others on this thread who provided valuable information for me when I recently did a radiator replacement on my 1997 528i with 122,000 miles. The step by step directions and pictures were invaluable and they made the job much easier to tackle.

    Even though nearly everyone says that loosening up the left hand threaded fan clutch nut can be done with a prybar to hold the water pump still and applying some sharp whacks with a heavy hammer, I simply was not able to get that nut to break free and so I went off in search of a fan clutch holding tool.

    Turns out that my local NAPA shop has one that worked perfectly and it cost only $21.99. Even though the list of applications doesn't mention BMW, the hooked end of one of the prongs worked perfectly in gripping the water pump nut and the clutch fan nut broke free on the third whack.

    So anyone that learns that they need this tool can go to their local NAPA and ask for this:

    Part # BK 7769139

    http://www.napaonline.com/Catalog/Ca...139_0109806391

    Clutch Fan Holding Tool Napa.jpg

  19. #219
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    Hi everyone:

    I actually made a post yesterday to let you know that NAPA has a fan clutch holding tool available and I posted the link to the specific part and a photo. Unfortunately, forum rules don't allow posting pictures or links until I have made 15 posts so just imagine a long X shaped pliers like tool about 24 inches long with a hooked indent on one arm and a ovoid indent on the other arm so that you can clamp down on the water pump housing nuts to keep that from moving when you whack the fan clutch nut with the big hammer.

    It worked beautifully and only cost $21.99. Don't be concerned that the listed applications for it are for Fords and Chryslers, it worked great on my 528i. The NAPA part number is BK 7769139.

    Thanks everyone for your help!

  20. #220
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    okay so I have a new issue I've done a lot of reading on overheating issues there's a lot of common ones I have yet to read one that has my symptoms the car overheats major pressure on the upper and lower hose is like no water is going through the engine block (circulating). everything has been replaced with OEM BMW parts thermostat thermostat housing water pump radiator expansion tank hoses temperature sensors everything clutch fan everything has been replaced brand new and still at idle when I hook my scanner to it at 132 degrees Celsius the needle starts going straight to red and won't come back. The aux fan is in working order I have led the system several times I have even jack the front of the car up every little trick that I have read on this forum and other forums. The car acts like there's an air pocket stuck behind the thermostat and the thermostat is not opening I have pulled the thermostat housing out to make sure I had to bleed bypass the little hole in the thermostat at the very top of it to setting everything I just have no idea what is going on need help I miss driving my baby.

  21. #221
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    Quote Originally Posted by NNY528I View Post
    I would start by going to this thread

    http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum....php?t=1423821

    And following the bleeding procedure presented there to the letter. That is the procedure endorsed by BMW and presented in all thief technical documents. If after following those instructions you are still having issues then we can take additional steps. At this point I am inclined to think you have a leak somewhere or are not bleeding the system correctly.

    What at this guy said!
    >'97 528i, 200000 miles, Hella Xenons, 17" Stilauto wheels, Vogtland Drop Springs, Dynomax Race Muffler, Homelink, 540 brake upgrade, 15mm spacers >'65 & '74 MG Midgets BFC OT Lego Club #48 Manual conversion in process!!!



  22. #222
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    Quote Originally Posted by SamMinor72 View Post
    Hello. I think I better start at the beginning. A few weeks ago I started noticing a squeel develop intermittenly. No difference in temp of engine or heater settings on those occasions. Driving at higher RPM seemed to stop it.

    When I listened under the hood it seemed like it was coming from the steering pump ( just to the right of where the water pump is). I figured it was that since I have the famous leaky hoses from the resevoir. My wife had had the car for a month and I had forgotten to check on the ATF levels during that time. The resevoir was empty so I refilled it.

    The squeek was still there.

    I bought a new pump went through all of the install proceedures and still had the squeel.

    It hadn't changed and the day before my heater quit working. It would blow out cold air till I got to 60 MPH then heat up but, not fully. I noticed the resevoir for the radiator was empty so I filled it up. Heater came back on and the squeel changed slightly.

    I came on here and found the posts for thermostats (since it effected my heater thats what I thought it was) and replaced mine. I then followed the instructions for bleeding the system which worked fine. I started and drove the car and it was silent. Woo Hoo!!

    That evening I got in to go to the store and the squeel was back. I opened the expansion tank and it was empty again. I figured this was inherent in the bleeding process so I redid the bleed. This time the squeel didn't go away until a short drive was taken. Heater worked the whole time.

    It has been 3 days since then and I have had to put coolant in the resevior and bleed each day. When the car gets hot after a long drive I can see steam coming from under the hood but, when I open it I can't find the source. I have checked all of the hoses and connections and still am at a loss.

    I read the part about the expansion tanks failing and will look into that. I also read a post where they said it might be a blown head gasket.

    My question is if it is a blown head gasket what is the fastest way to identify the problem? I figured I could pull the oil level guage and look for milky oil but it looks fine on the stick and under the filler cap. And if the water isn't going to the block where is it going?

    Second is what could be causing the squeel? It usually does go away but, is really embarassing until that point. Could it be the water pump?

    I just don't understand where the coolant is going since it isn't leaving puddles and the oil looks fine on the stick.... I figure I might need to change it to see for sure but, thought you all would know best!! Any thoughts would be greatly appreciated. Thanks in advance!!
    I realize that this is an old post but did you isolate your squeeling noise? I had the same type of noise and it turned out to be a loose idler arm pulley bearing that was worn, and caused my serpetine belt to slip off the pulleys, shred, and cause my 2.8 Litre engine to overheat, while I was on the freeway. I wish BMW also had audible warning signal when the engine is over heating or the belt breaks and the alternator is no longer charging.

  23. #223
    Join Date
    Aug 2009
    Location
    Boston, MA
    Posts
    1,728
    My Cars
    None
    Hi all.

    Has anyone used the "euro" diesel fan that has the round circle attached to the perimeter of the blades? I used it in my e36 M52 and was wondering if it's compatible with the e39 M52TU?

    Thanks

  24. #224
    Join Date
    Nov 2017
    Location
    Zimmerman, MN
    Posts
    1
    My Cars
    92 325i, 2000 528i
    I've been having some trouble diagnosing the overheating problem on my 2000 528i. I just replaced the thermostat and the temp gauge was fine for a few miles then it dropped down a bit then went up almost to the red. That was a couple days ago. Now the temp gauge goes slowly up while I'm at idle so i thought it might be the fan clutch. But then, i start driving and it goes to normal then shoots up to the red mark. The gauge seems to be all over the place and can never stay in the "normal" position for long.

  25. #225
    Join Date
    Feb 2006
    Location
    Amsterdam, NY
    Posts
    5,629
    My Cars
    97 528i 87 528e 65/74MG
    Find my cooling system bleed procedure. I can almost guarantee that your not bled out properly.

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