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Thread: xjeeper's Hood latch and cable replacement DIY (the easy way)

  1. #76
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    Yes
    Naw, I'm on the other side of the country.

    Thanks to everyone for the tips.

  2. #77
    Join Date
    Feb 2015
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    White Plains New york
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    42
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    1998 BMW323i Convertible
    So how do we open if the cable has come loose from the handle on the kick panel. i hand pull it but it wont open. is there a way to open with the hood closed?

  3. #78
    Join Date
    Sep 2010
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    Ithaca, NY, USA
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    '97 M3, '04 ZHP coupe
    So my hood isn't opening. Pull the lever and I feel a click, but hood doesn't pop. Gonna examine this this weekend, really hoping I get lucky and it's easy, but I'm bookmarking this.

    Anyone have any good links to DIY's for if the hood is indeed stuck shut and the cable is broken behind the firewall? I keep finding descriptions but no pictures.

  4. #79
    Join Date
    Oct 2013
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    Tennessee
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    2000 M roadster
    Good stuff here

  5. #80
    Join Date
    Feb 2015
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    Boise,id
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    94 325i coupe
    Quote Originally Posted by khaos View Post
    So my hood isn't opening. Pull the lever and I feel a click, but hood doesn't pop. Gonna examine this this weekend, really hoping I get lucky and it's easy, but I'm bookmarking this. Anyone have any good links to DIY's for if the hood is indeed stuck shut and the cable is broken behind the firewall? I keep finding descriptions but no pictures.
    Just ordered one for my car. $140

  6. #81
    Join Date
    Sep 2010
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    Ithaca, NY, USA
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    '97 M3, '04 ZHP coupe
    So I got my hood open. Cable is in tact but the casing is messed up, so pulling the cable just collapsed the casing rather than pulling the latch if that makes sense. Guess I have to do this before it gets worse. Can I just get the $20 cable, lever and housing assembly?

    While I was in there I threaded a coat hanger through the center cable buy the kidneys in case I need to yank on that.

  7. #82
    Join Date
    Sep 2010
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    Ithaca, NY, USA
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    '97 M3, '04 ZHP coupe
    I just did this. DIY was helpful but we pulled the nose panel. Bending stuff looked sketch and honestly idk how much time it saved. I'll post more thoughts later.

    So here's what we did.
    Remove:
    -airbox and snorkel
    -radiator cover and alternator duct
    -corners
    -headlights

    Loosen:
    -fender liners (remove two forward screws and top screw)
    -pork chops (remove screws as necessary to pull liner back.

    That all shouldn't take too long. If you're careful to put a wrench on the headlight body nut things you won't have to reaim later. Now time for the nose panel. Undo the six torx bolts for the latches. Then get the two bolts on either side of the kidneys. There are two more screws at either end in the wheel well. If you loosen the fender liner you can pull it back to get to them. There's one more screw attached to a plastic bit next to the driver's side kidney. Pull the noise panel out enough (flexing the plastic) until you can get that. You might be able to remove the other screws holding that plastic onto the car and leave it attached to the nose panel, but I didn't look. My plastic was cracked so it was easy enough to bend it and remove it. Presto, nose panel off.

    With the nose panel off, getting the latches out is absolute cake. Pay attention the center cable is held in by push rivets, use a pick and a hanger to press the center bit out. It's also held up by two plastic bits, if you loosen the two bolts on the rad support you can wiggle the cable free easily.

    The cables are hard to describe, but the easiest way to get them out of the latches is to cut the cable, remove the sheath, then you have tons of slack to manipulate them. I'm used to Bowden cables where you rotate the cable to a slot, then pull the barrel sideways. This is not the case on the passenger side, you need to compress the latch, rotate the cable all the way back, then just yank.

    On the inside we freed the cable end from the lever mechanism, pulled it into the cabin a bit (careful not to go to far or you'll lose it in the fender) and cut off the grommet. We zip tied the new cable to the old, cable to cable, such that the barrels were holding it in place, super strong. (I'll try and upload a picture soon) As mention before, pulling it through is very easy with the headlight/corner out. Be patient, don't yank too hard. Helps to have someone pull gently while someone else guides the new one in.

    Pop all the cables into the latches, put the nose panel back on (all 13 screw/bolts, six latch bolts first- check pin to latch alignments, then four bolts by the kidneys, then wheel well last) Gently lower the hood to double check the pins are aligned right (should be). Tighten the fender liners back up, put headlights back in (remember to hold the the body nuts, if they don't move, your alignment will be fine), put airbox, radiator cover and alternator duct back in, and you should be golden!
    Last edited by khaos; 03-07-2015 at 08:16 PM.

  8. #83
    Join Date
    Mar 2015
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    Siauliai, Lithuania
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    1996 BMW 328 Touring
    Well I got worse problem. there is no old cable at all... Im confused now what to do.

  9. #84
    Join Date
    Sep 2010
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    Ithaca, NY, USA
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    '97 M3, '04 ZHP coupe
    Quote Originally Posted by torkas View Post
    Well I got worse problem. there is no old cable at all... Im confused now what to do.
    No center cable or no cable going to the cabin?

  10. #85
    Join Date
    Mar 2011
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    Los Angeles, CA
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    2006 BMW M5 & 2002 M3
    I just want to say thanks to the OP for posting this many years ago. I recently used it to replace my cable and hinges after the hood being locked closed. It saved me tons of money doing it myself. Plus I refuse to pay anyone for work that's doable at home lol

  11. #86
    Join Date
    Jun 2013
    Location
    Kansas
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    51
    My Cars
    1992 Bmw 325i E36
    So I switched my hood with aero catch pins on another car I bought and am switching the other hood into my old car and am putting in the hood release as well. Since I pulled it out of the other car i can tie the cables together cause there isn't a previous one. Can anyone tell me exactly where the cable goes on from the outside of the vehicle? I can't quite see on the inside, all help is appreciated.

  12. #87
    Join Date
    Sep 2010
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    Ithaca, NY, USA
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    '97 M3, '04 ZHP coupe
    Quote Originally Posted by 92Beamer View Post
    So I switched my hood with aero catch pins on another car I bought and am switching the other hood into my old car and am putting in the hood release as well. Since I pulled it out of the other car i can tie the cables together cause there isn't a previous one. Can anyone tell me exactly where the cable goes on from the outside of the vehicle? I can't quite see on the inside, all help is appreciated.
    If you remove the drivers side corner light there is a tunnel in the top of the fender. You might have a foam block with a hold in it still in there. Definitely remove that before trying to thread the new cable. Make sure you put it back on the new cable though, it helps route it.

  13. #88
    Join Date
    Mar 2006
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    NJ
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    339
    My Cars
    1998 328is, 2006 330ci ZHP
    This thread helped me research this topic so I figured I'd come back and provide some additional input in the form of a video I took during a recent teardown of my E36.

    https://youtu.be/dYWKL_5sAaI

    Note that I did this while my front end was disassembled for other reasons so you don't necessarily need to dismantle your front end to the extent I show. I'm sure as others have pointed out there are alternate methods to do this job. If nothing else my video will clearly show what you have to remove gain access to in order to replace the hood lock receptacles....and I do recommend doing those along with the cable, as mine were rusty and crusty, and contributing to a hard pull.

    Unfortunately, I don't know how I would open the hood if the cable snaps, but the upside is that the cable itself (that runs through the outer vinyl coated metal sheath) is quite resilient. Mine looked brand new. Unfortunately the sheath itself had rusted and worn out inside, which made it very difficult to pull.

    Hope this helps.
    Last edited by dwvcfii; 11-27-2017 at 06:20 PM.

  14. #89
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    SW Florida
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    99-01 M Cpe & Rdts, X5M
    Another thanks! It's a hateful job (@ 63, I'm no longer a fan of working below the dash) but at least with the help this thread, I knew that there was a least painful approach!

  15. #90
    Join Date
    Jun 2006
    Location
    Johnstown, NY
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    114
    My Cars
    99 M3, 13 Tundra TRD
    Firstly, thanks to XJeeper for writing this up so many years ago.

    Now here's my notes on the replacement:

    1) Instead of using scissors to try and cut away at the old grommet, reach up in there with a pair of needle nose pliers (I had to use a pair on the smaller side). If you grip the grommet you can put the whole thing completely out with a good pull. When it comes free you'll probably bust a knuckle on the speaker hole sheet metal. Wear gloves.

    2) I did not attach my new and old cable well enough when I started pulling. I only got a half a foot or so of pulling done before the connection broke. Saddened by the additional work I'd have to do, I began the fender removal process. Once I got the fender liner off I peered in and saw my partially pulled cable coming through the firewall. YOU DO NOT NEED TO REMOVE THE ENTIRE FENDER! I snapped a pic for reference. I was able to get my whole arm in there and pull the cable from there.

    Hope this helps anyone in the future. It's not a bad job.


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    Last edited by Bobomb; 07-02-2018 at 11:16 AM.
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  16. #91
    Join Date
    Feb 2021
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    Maryland
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    1998 M3 & 2017 M3
    This thread was very useful as I had to address this on my m3. I made a little video to help newbies like myself tackle. https://youtu.be/NAUr_W_lbE0
    Last edited by shogun; 04-20-2021 at 08:39 PM. Reason: double posts merged

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