you are all very, very welcome. Im just glad I was able to help.
1/4 mile in 13.1 @ 106++ (calculators put this at 0-60 in "4.21" seconds.)
Thanks again for this write-up. I also couldn't find it via BFC searching with multiple different words, but it was the first thing to come up on Google. Go figure.
Instead of reaching up and cutting at the grommet, i just pulled the old cable back into the footwell a little bit and cut the grommet off.
When attaching the 2 cables together, I used zipties and then wrapped electrical tape around the connection and the start of the sleeve on the new cable - didnt want any snags.
where did u get your parts i need the same exact ones my cable is shredding and hood only closes on one side currently.
The dealer. I bought mine from Tischer in Laurel, MD (local to me). You can get 20% on internet orders getbmwparts.com
Thanks man getbmwparts.com is cool
Last edited by Greasy3489; 07-17-2009 at 02:35 PM.
How do you get the hood open if the latch is broken? My cable seems to be in one piece, but no matter how hard I pull knit with vice grips... The hood doesn't pop.
How do you get the hood open if the latch is broken? My cable seems to be in one piece, but no matter how hard I pull knit with vice grips... The hood doesn't pop.
Last edited by Htown98M3; 11-08-2009 at 03:03 PM. Reason: Automerged Doublepost
Thats because its already broken! You need to now pull the inner cable and outer sleeve.
If you don't want to trash the indicator you can remove the plastic panels under the bumper and get access to the cable as follows;
Removing the grill to open the bonnet is a waste of time if you have a/c as the fan shroud stops any access to the catches....
Removing the to lower panels (4 off M8 bolts and the air duct..careful with the temperature sensor) under the bumper (marked 1 & 2) helps but you can't reach the cables if you have a/c as the reciever is in the way...
A very bent wire coathanger will reach the pull cable passed the a/c reciever... healthy pull and it opens...be brave...
Get a mate to 'wiggle' the pull cable as this will stop you pulling out parts of the wiring loom with the wire hanger....
Good luck.......3hours to get it open 1 to fix it
I did a similar job on a '97 328ic... To open the stuck hood I did the following:
1. Reached behind the nose panel and removed both kidneys. (Car didn't have an underpanel anymore.)
2. Loosened the 4 10mm bolts that secure the aux fan, and dropped it down.
3. Pulled the "intermediate" cable that passes between both latches. (This was the cable that was snapped only causing one latch to release.)
4. Had person pull hood release inside car. Viola, hood open in less than 20 minutes.
BMW Parts Whore... BUY THEM PLEASE!!!
Hey Xjeeper... This was a very good write up but I may have a little better way that will keep you from having to mod the expensive new cable. I just got done doing this myself and was going to do a write up but saw this and though I might just make a suggestion.
What I did was attach a small rope (10' should be long enough and 1/4" in size)to the old cable from the latch side and pulled it through with the old cable when I pulled it out, making sure not to pull the rope all the way through. Tying the free end up under the hood is a good idea which would keep you from pulling it too far. Next I used the rope to attach to the new cable from inside the car and pulled the rope back from under the hood which pulled the new cable back through. Its an extra step but keeps you from having to mod the new cable. Just a suggestion... Let me know what you think. I have pics and can post them sometime this week if the explination isn't good enough.
Again, your write up is very helpful as this job would be a real PIA if somebody was to pull the cable out prematurely.
Thanx
Steve
Understeer FDK, UUC Underdrive Pulleys, UUC Red TME, UUC Comp EVO3 SSK, UUC DSSR, UUC Clutch Stop, UUC Stage2 Flywheel w/M5 clutch, Supersprint headers, AA Exhaust, JC CAI, Euro MAF, JC software, Riot Racings Big Bore Throttle Body, Strong-Strut Competition Strut Tower Brace, TMS RTAB's & shims, AA DSB, AA RCCA's, Ground Control Track Plus Coilovers, GC Street Camber Plates, GC Tubular front and rear sway bars, 3.46diff w/40% lockup, Schroth Harnesses, 17x7.5" Lightweights, Toyo 235x40's. Cobra Imola II Seats, Momo Jet Carbon Fiber Wheel, SSR Comp wheels, IOport Racing 8 point Cage, Mpact Motorsports CF Gauge kit,
Can you attach pictures of this method with the rope? I'm having a hell of a time getting my new cable to come through into the engine bay from the inside of the car, just attached to the old cable. The old cable is binding somewhere. All I have to pull on from the engine bay is the metal sheath (it seems pretty strong, but I don't want to yank on it anymore because it's not moving at all.
Did anyone else have issues getting the new cable to come from the inside of the car into the engine bay?
GREAT, had a look today, one of my latches had seized up, did the bend trick and out it came, squirt with some wd40, and all is ok!!!
saved me so much time and energy!!
big thanks man!
E36 323I M50 MANIFOLD CONVERSION, M3 EXHAUST CONVERSION, CAI, CDV REMOVED, M6 WHEELS, CUSTOM COILOVERS, REMAPPED, BREMBO MAX DISCS
Im having a similar problem. I look from underneath the hood and i can see that the cord is pulling when the lever is pulled. When i pull on the lever for the hood, it has no resistance and pulls way to easily though. Im afraid if i take out the corner or the grill i wont be able to just pull on the cable to release it because its already pulling when i use the lever. please help!!
First of all, thanks for the great writeup!!!
Just did this procedure, and I must say this DIY is easier than it looks! I do have a few remarks that were different from the original writeup and I thought I would share this info with other fellow DIYers.
My car is an automatic, which means it has an additional radiator for the ATF, this radiator pretty much makes it impossible to get the latches out without removing the front panel.
So remark (1) remove the front panel. First get the 4 screws on the sides (2 on each side), for this you have to lower the wheel well lining, but don't pull the whole lining out or the wheel, instead raise the front-end slightly to gain more clearance and unscrew 5 screws that hold the front half of the lining including the top screw, the lining will then drop, exposing enough space for you to get to the 2 screws holding the front panel. Then remove the headlights. Both are attached to the front panel at the bottom plus there is one SOB screw underneath drivers side headlight that needs removed. Finally unscrew the 4 remaining screws in the center that hold the panel in place and pull it out.
Remark (2): there is absolutely no need to put any force when pulling the new cable through. There is nothing holding it on its way except for the hole in the firewall, where only 2 items get stuck - first the hexagonal rubber lining and then the grommet. You will feel that when you pull. Just stop, go around and push the stuck cable further into the firewall, then go back and pull it again. You have to repeat this at most twice cause the cable can only get stuck twice. No great force needed at all.
All in all this took me much more than 1 hour, maybe 3-4 in total (but I'm slow).
To get stuck hood open I asked wife to sit on the edge of the hood. Worked like a charm. But in my case the cable wasn't broken (yet).
Ok this very good, but what if the previous owner pulled the entire cable out and u have to start from scratch with no lead.
The cables from the locks are pretty straight forward and I guess someone can post pics of the layout if you can't find one to copy. A trip to a breakers might be valuable? Suggest www.realoem.com for the parts list you will need.
Agreed the route from the interior is a bit more difficult.
What you need is a old fashioned net curtain hanger. Its a bit of plastic covered small coil wire about (3 foot long should do). It can be fed though from the inside and will come out somewhere between the inner wing and the bulkhead. Will take a while/few attempts. A similar small diameter flexible item like a sink cleaner wire might do.
I'd post pics of mine but here in the UK we drive on the correct side of the road and have the steering gear located accordingly
Good luck...right cow of a job!
Thanks for the info! I am about to attempt this tonight. The awesome guys at Tischer got the cable to me next day. I was able to release the hood, by knocking out the grills and the corner light. I am hoping I just need to replace the main pull cable. I didn't think to order new latches.
~Phil
Madeiraviolett Bf.C club member #001
1996 BMW 328is Madeiraviolett/Dove Grey: 5 Spd, Sport, Cold Weather & Premium Sound pkgs.
3.5" ECIS/ITG intake -> Samco ASC Delete Boot -> DINAN TB -> M50 Manifold -> S52 Cams | Bav Auto Red-top ignition coils tuned w/ AA software, Dynomax Cats & Stromung exhaust UUC Pulleys & Clutch stop, FDM=Zionsville radiator, Mishimoto Tank, SAMCO hoses, Fidanza LTW flywheel & M3 clutch, UUC Evo3 SSK, 3.23 LSD, Koni/Eibach Adjustable Damper suspension, PUR RSM's & RTABs, CF Strut brace, UUC Swaybarbarians, Motorsport X-Brace, 17x8 Beyern Mesh wheels Hella CELIS projectors + 5k TRS HID's, Fog delete=Brake cooling duct, LTW wing, ///M Bumper & R. Diffuser
CCA Member #382557
So start to finish i.e. pick up the screw drive > car back together and vacuumed, this took me 3 hours. I had trouble getting the latches free, to clean them. I then spent 30-40 mins trying to attach the new cable to the Driver side latch. Oh well, I cleaned the latches, installed the new cable and adjusted the pins. The hood has never opened so easily!!!
~Phil
Madeiraviolett Bf.C club member #001
1996 BMW 328is Madeiraviolett/Dove Grey: 5 Spd, Sport, Cold Weather & Premium Sound pkgs.
3.5" ECIS/ITG intake -> Samco ASC Delete Boot -> DINAN TB -> M50 Manifold -> S52 Cams | Bav Auto Red-top ignition coils tuned w/ AA software, Dynomax Cats & Stromung exhaust UUC Pulleys & Clutch stop, FDM=Zionsville radiator, Mishimoto Tank, SAMCO hoses, Fidanza LTW flywheel & M3 clutch, UUC Evo3 SSK, 3.23 LSD, Koni/Eibach Adjustable Damper suspension, PUR RSM's & RTABs, CF Strut brace, UUC Swaybarbarians, Motorsport X-Brace, 17x8 Beyern Mesh wheels Hella CELIS projectors + 5k TRS HID's, Fog delete=Brake cooling duct, LTW wing, ///M Bumper & R. Diffuser
CCA Member #382557
im replacing my broken cable right now, got the new cable routed thru the fender with no probs. got the driver hood latch out but how the hell do you get the old cable out of the mechanism and the new one in without bending and breaking things? im stuck, i might just go buy a new one.
i said F*** it and went to the local bmw dealer and bought a new latch/lock mechanism. problem solved and fixed. and the dealer quoted me "dealer price" over the phone so i got the part for $17.... vs $34... ha!
Thanks for the writeup.
For those who followed the thread far.
I found what looks like a circlip broken in the black part that the cable is fixed to inside the car.
I removed the latches and found the cable moving freely so I didn't want to replace it at this time. All I did was replace the end that the cable secures to.
I'm no longer worried about not being able to open the hood.
...steven BMWCCA 146825
http://318ti.org | http://bmwcca.org/forum
1995 318ti Club Sport - 1996 328ti Sport - 1991 325iC - 2003 Mini Cooper S
Oh YEAH!! Great instructions! I don't like bleeding as much as some other things, so after I got the latches out by bending the metal up, I cut the cable off the driver's side latch. Then I went back inside the car and yanked real hard on the cable housing. This brought the grommet right out to see me, and I was just as glad to see it as it was to see me! This also exposes much more old cable so you can use a long length of tape for security. You don't even need to remove the speaker...
There are two 8mm bolt heads on the radiator support bar, approximately 3" inboard from each latch. Removing these will loosen the plastic piece that's blocking the exit of the latches and help you get them out.
Also, get both latches out first and fill them up with oil (use the cut end of the cable to work them to make the oil go in) and then hang them up to drip while working on replacing the cable.
I also found that not enough cable would pull out of the housing to hook it onto the latch part, so I hooked the cable up with the housing loose and noticed where the housing was in relation to the socket when I pulled the cable tight as possible. Then I unhooked the cable and cut the cable socket off just long enough. (Make sure there's no burrs) This allowed me to hook the cable back on and pull hard with the latch to get the housing into its socket just nicely.
Many minds make light work!!
I suffered with a faulty hood cable for over a year. Your fix made it easy while I was replacing the radiator.
I have a few suggestions which make it even simpler:
1. Start by freeing the hood end of the cable first. FYI, the latch box has 2 metal tabs that wrap around and hold it together. These must be bent open to get inside and free the cables.
2. Once you have the inside/ lever end of the cable detached, go back under the hood. Give the OLD cable a good push towards the inside of the car. This will pop the grommet out of the hole without slicing or breaking your fingers. Once you maneuver the grommet inside the car, you can easily cut away the OLD grommet.
3. On the OLD cable, pull the lug and cable about 2 or 3 inches out of the wound jacket toward the inside of the car. Cut the lug off of the OLD cable. This gives you a wire to wrap around the NEW cable lug and tie off in your choice of knot with pliers. Make sure you keep the diameter smaller than the grommet so it will pass through the hole in the firewall easily. This mechanical connection will be much more reliable than tape alone when pulling the cable into the engine compartment.
I hope these ideas help. This metod is far less trouble than taking the front of the car apart.
Used this to replace mine. Thanks for the write-up.
Last edited by cscat87; 05-02-2012 at 10:14 PM.
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