need help fast, car won't start, EWS2 bypass question?

[bimmer213]

To give a quick description, I have a 99 M3 with EWS2, my car had a short from some cables that were rubbing together underneath the glovebox. I unpluged the EWS2 module because I didn't know that if you removed it you had to have it re-programmed. So after I fixed the short, and I put everything back together, my car didn't start. I read on here that I could simply by-pass the EWS2 by cutting and connecting together the #1 & #3 wires from the EWS2 module. I did that and now the cars ignition turns on, but i'm guessing that now there's no electricity going to either the starter motor or the fuel pump because the car still doesn't crank the engine. I also tried to cut the green wire coming out of the ecu, but that still didn't work. I need some help as soon as possible on how to fix this please because it's my only ride. Thanks in advance

[bloxsom]

maby the wires under the dash shorted out the computer. and the green wire you cut was out of pin # 66?

[bimmer213]

maby the wires under the dash shorted out the computer. and the green wire you cut was out of pin # 66?

I doubt it because the cables that were shorted were grounds. And the car was turning on fine even after the short happened before i changed the wires today.

I'm not exactly sure if it was pin #66 because I didn't know how to be able to read it off the ecu harness. I read on here that pin 66 is the thick solid green wire so that's the one i cut. Their's another solid green wire, but it's not as thick as the one i cut.

[nickdrivesm3]

due to the EWS and DME relationship, the DME and EWS are "married" and therfore need to be in "alignment" upon startup. The key sends a signal to the EWS module saying "im a enabled key". The EWS sends a signal to the DME to verify it is the proper DME from the last time it started up. If it is, the EWS will allow the DME to start up. If I remember correctly, the EWS sends a coded signal to the DME. This coded signal must be in the DME's memory. A coded signal that is incorrect will not allow the DME to power itself up.

Basically, you're screwed. These modules need to be in "alignment" to be started. A dealer diagnostic tool can do this, for about 1.0 of shop labor max. However due to your wiring situation, you may have compromised something in the process. Fried module? I hope not. Tow it to a dealer and pry its a cheap fix.

good luck

[ParadigmGuy]

Connect the cut wire and remove the jumper between #1 and #3. The check your fuses, I think it's fuse 43.

[pbonsalb]

A Dinan tuner told me that you could disable EWS by cutting the EWS wire going to the ECU. It is labeled in the Bentley diagram. Might be #17. He said that if there is no alignment, the ECU will get a 12V signal and that will prevent it from starting, or maybe I am remembering wrong and the 12V signal is not provided. I have not verified this, but am curious.

Philip Bradley

[nickdrivesm3]

A Dinan tuner told me that you could disable EWS by cutting the EWS wire going to the ECU. It is labeled in the Bentley diagram. Might be #17. He said that if there is no alignment, the ECU will get a 12V signal and that will prevent it from starting, or maybe I am remembering wrong and the 12V signal is not provided. I have not verified this, but am curious.

Philip Bradley

I believe thats earlier style EWS.

[pbonsalb]

He claimed it was for the 96-99 OBD2 cars. I questioned him on exactly that point. But again, I have not verified this.

Philip Bradley

[bimmer213]

Connect the cut wire and remove the jumper between #1 and #3. The check your fuses, I think it's fuse 43.

which cut wire are you referring to connect again? the green one coming from the ecu?? and what is it that you mean to remove the jumper between the 1 & 3 wires?

[bimmer213]

A Dinan tuner told me that you could disable EWS by cutting the EWS wire going to the ECU. It is labeled in the Bentley diagram. Might be #17. He said that if there is no alignment, the ECU will get a 12V signal and that will prevent it from starting, or maybe I am remembering wrong and the 12V signal is not provided. I have not verified this, but am curious.

Philip Bradley

I've always read everywhere that it's the #66 wire. Never heard of it being the #17 wire

[ParadigmGuy]

which cut wire are you referring to connect again? the green one coming from the ecu?? and what is it that you mean to remove the jumper between the 1 & 3 wires?

Return it back to stock configuration is what I meant. Then replace the blown fuse. Check every fuse.

[bimmer213]

Return it back to stock configuration is what I meant. Then replace the blown fuse. Check every fuse.

I had already checked all the fuses before and after I did anything to the car, so that's not the problem

[pbonsalb]

I've always read everywhere that it's the #66 wire. Never heard of it being the #17 wire

I don't remember the actual wire. It is clearly listed in the Bentley manual. Could well be #66.

Philip Bradley

[nickdrivesm3]

ok from the last few posts, it sounds like this is still a nightmare. Not to mention a waste of time because the wiring is not the problem. The EWS was unplugged, therefore power was cut to the module. When this happens, the EWS is "reset" and must be realigned to the DME with a diagnostic tool. Dont make me get my STEP book and quote it.

Return it to stock and tow it to the dealer.

[bimmer213]

ok from the last few posts, it sounds like this is still a nightmare. Not to mention a waste of time because the wiring is not the problem. The EWS was unplugged, therefore power was cut to the module. When this happens, the EWS is "reset" and must be realigned to the DME with a diagnostic tool. Dont make me get my STEP book and quote it.

Return it to stock and tow it to the dealer.

I don't want to have to take it back to the dealer. Towing costs money, having the ecu re-programmed costs money. If I can by-pass it without spending money then that's what i'd like to do.

I've gone through all the wiring diagrams and came up with this, I bypassed the ews because the ignition turns on and the car cranks. So my problem now is I need to by-pass the starter relay. So my question is, where is the starter relay??

[ParadigmGuy]

If the car cranks then the starter is working. Sounds like you need fuel or spark.

[art@rmeuropean]

Don't even bother messing with the wiring. There is no way to bypass EWS II. Take it to the dealer!

[bimmer213]

If the car cranks then the starter is working. Sounds like you need fuel or spark.

You're absolutely right i'm sorry about that. I was mixed up. The starter is cranking. I was mixed up with the way the worded the fuel pump relay in the wiring diagrams, it makes it seem as if it's a relay for something else. I'm gonna look at the fuel pump relay and test it out to see

[nickdrivesm3]

I don't want to have to take it back to the dealer. Towing costs money, having the ecu re-programmed costs money. If I can by-pass it without spending money then that's what i'd like to do.

I've gone through all the wiring diagrams and came up with this, I bypassed the ews because the ignition turns on and the car cranks. So my problem now is I need to by-pass the starter relay. So my question is, where is the starter relay??

Ok, you're not really getting what Im saying. So let me show you via picture...



1. 12 volts directly to starter

2. 12v relay powerd by the EWS module. (this is probably what you bypassed, the starter relay)

3. Coded 12 volts. YOU CANNOT DUBLICATE THIS SIGNAL. It is not like a starter that you can just power up. That signal is a code provided by the EWS for the DME to accept or reject. Upon acception the DME grounds itself to turn on. Good luck trying to find that relay.

The dealer shouldn't charge you more than 2.0 hours to get this car running, if you return it to the way you had it before. (thats assuming nothing is fried due to the shorts or possible incorrect wire jumping)

[bimmer213]

Ok, you're not really getting what Im saying. So let me show you via picture...

1. 12 volts directly to starter

2. 12v relay powerd by the EWS module. (this is probably what you bypassed, the starter relay)

3. Coded 12 volts. YOU CANNOT DUBLICATE THIS SIGNAL. It is not like a starter that you can just power up. That signal is a code provided by the EWS for the DME to accept or reject. Upon acception the DME grounds itself to turn on. Good luck trying to find that relay.

The dealer shouldn't charge you more than 2.0 hours to get this car running, if you return it to the way you had it before. (thats assuming nothing is fried due to the shorts or possible incorrect wire jumping)

I went through that same diagram already. You're right to a certain extent. The code that has to match the dme to the ews2 module is not for the starter to operate though. It's for the dme to give the fuel injection/ignition. The starter motor does turn on and operate once I turn the key because of the by-pass I did to the ews2 module. So the starter motor already operates, now I just have to see if I can do the same for the fuel spark/injection.

I realize it's easier to just take it to the dealer, but i'm trying to avoid that because as you said it's going to be at least 1-2 hrs, which is about $70-$150, + towing to the dealer which is not near my house which would be another $50 at least. So I might end up spending $200 for the job. The car already has messed up wiring from the previous owner that I had to fix myself regardless. So I don't want to have to take it to the dealer unless i can't do it myself. Which I guess I'll find out today

[m3j0n]

hey rich, do you want to return my e-mails, or what? I've been wanting to come down and pick up those parts.

-jon

[nickdrivesm3]

I went through that same diagram already. You're right to a certain extent. The code that has to match the dme to the ews2 module is not for the starter to operate though. It's for the dme to give the fuel injection/ignition. The starter motor does turn on and operate once I turn the key because of the by-pass I did to the ews2 module. So the starter motor already operates, now I just have to see if I can do the same for the fuel spark/injection.

I realize it's easier to just take it to the dealer, but i'm trying to avoid that because as you said it's going to be at least 1-2 hrs, which is about $70-$150, + towing to the dealer which is not near my house which would be another $50 at least. So I might end up spending $200 for the job. The car already has messed up wiring from the previous owner that I had to fix myself regardless. So I don't want to have to take it to the dealer unless i can't do it myself. Which I guess I'll find out today

no no no, that diagram is not a wiring diagram. Its a basic I/P/O of the EWS module. There is absolutly no way you are going to be able to power the DME. The code the EWS provides tells the DME to ground itself, and power up. You cannot force the DME to power up.

The ONLY THING TO DO it tow it to the dealer and pray its not too exspensive. (ask me how I know, I work for a dealer)

[ParadigmGuy]

no no no, that diagram is not a wiring diagram. Its a basic I/P/O of the EWS module. There is absolutly no way you are going to be able to power the DME. The code the EWS provides tells the DME to ground itself, and power up. You cannot force the DME to power up.

The ONLY THING TO DO it tow it to the dealer and pray its not too exspensive. (ask me how I know, I work for a dealer)

You going to be there tonight? I can show my keyless push button start.

[bimmer213]

no no no, that diagram is not a wiring diagram. Its a basic I/P/O of the EWS module. There is absolutly no way you are going to be able to power the DME. The code the EWS provides tells the DME to ground itself, and power up. You cannot force the DME to power up.

The ONLY THING TO DO it tow it to the dealer and pray its not too exspensive. (ask me how I know, I work for a dealer)

So let me get specific. the key sends the signal to the ews, the ews turns on the starter, then the ews sends a signal to the ecu, and the ecu turns on the fuel injection. So there is no relay either between the ecu and the fuel injection, or from the ews to the ecu that can be by-passed? From what I think you're saying, is that the ecu itself is pretty much the relay for that??

The reason I don't understand why it can't be by-passed is because in the schematics it shows that their are relays between them, where from my understanding it can be done.

Here's the thing I see though, one way or the other, i'm gonna have to take it to the dealer because even if somehow I can by-pass it, i'm gonna have to plug and un-plug the fuel injection every time I start the car, and that's not happening. So I guess at this point i just want to get educated. Maybe I can save money on the tow truck by driving it to the dealer and then putting it back to normal?? lol

[m3j0n]

hey rich, do you want to return my e-mails, or what? I've been wanting to come down and pick up those parts.

-jon

??????