what needs replacing when the window does not open and close a bit upon opening & closing the door ? Opening and closing the window via the switch works properly. Is it the motor, regulator assembly or sliders?
thanks in advance. I have a 1994 318i convert.
There's a switch in the doorhinges that control this.
So I would take a look at these
(when the door is open you can test this with your fingers).
1998 BMW M3 3.2 Cabrio Alpinweiί III on Schwarz German spec 1 of 12
SMG SRA PDC AUC OBC GSM HK UURS IHKA FGR MFL
IG: https://www.instagram.com/iflok/
before throwing parts at it, try resetting the window first.
roll the window all the way down, pressing and holding the down button past the first detent for about 10 seconds after the window stops going down. then roll the window up, pressing and holding the up button past the first detent for about 10 seconds after the window has gone all the way up.
DesmoBob in Paradise
I have the opposite problem: The passenger window jumps up and down a half inch when it's closed and I'm driving. Does this mean that the switch at the door hinge needs replacement?
Try grabbing the post in the latch/switch mechanism (non-hinge side of door opening) with a pair of pliers and rotate it a quarter turn. It gets get worn down, then the switch doesnt stay fully engaged while driving.
ok i finally had some time to overlook the car. This 94 318 does not have the micro switch in the latch. im pressuming that the lock mechanism has the micro-switch incorporated in it. Anyone take the lock mechanism (on pass door) apart to change the micro switch?
Driver's side is working 100%. Any other ideas will be welcome. Frigid temps have held me back from taking apart the door.
RECAP: Pass window does not slightly roll down or up upon opening and closing door.
Thanks for all the advice so far, i appreciate it very much.
Last edited by dinans3m3; 04-24-2007 at 01:29 AM.
Anybody tackle this issue yet? Micro-switch is not on the door hinge as on the later vert models.
I was just about to say...on older cars the switch is inside the door, the part that grabs on the latch.
IMO a much better place because I found out on older cars, as soon as you lift the handle, the window goes down.
On newer ones, you need to pull the door slightly towards you, but since the window needs to drop beforeyou can pull it even 1mm.....
Wonder why BMW opted for this.
1998 BMW M3 3.2 Cabrio Alpinweiί III on Schwarz German spec 1 of 12
SMG SRA PDC AUC OBC GSM HK UURS IHKA FGR MFL
IG: https://www.instagram.com/iflok/
On the '94 it's the microswitch that's built in to the latch. They moved it after this year because they were getting worn and the door couldn't tell when it was being closed. If it's worn sometimes you can get it to work by lifting the handle really high (sometimes, but don't pull it past it's stopping point!). Another symptom of a worn out microswitch is being unable to double lock if it's the driver's door that's gone bad.
I'm replacing mine next weekend.
It's #15. Like, $22. I still can't figure out what #16 is even though it has the same description and price. If I'm diving in to the door I might as well replace the whole latch and be done with it. I think there's a how-to on pelican parts.
As for the window raising then stopping and lowering 1/2". I believe that's your actuator causing problems. Go to the e36 FAQ and it should be listed there.
No problemo! If you'd like I'll take pix of changing mine out. The pelican parts DIY has pictures, though.
Reset your driver window. Roll the window up. Now, hold the down button and roll it all the way down. Hold the down button and count to 10-15 seconds (don't let go the entire time).
Now, right away press the up button. Let the window roll all the way up. When it gets to the top count to 10-15s without letting go of the button.
This should reset the window, telling the car where open and closed is.
I've heard of window resetting fixing that issue lots of times.
Just for the sake of correct info, but on later cars the switch is on #6
I did some window adjusting today and now my window drops much lower when I lift the handle and clears the top rubbers by quite a distance, instead of me having to pull it out of the rubber.
So I guess the switch-in-door striker works after all.
1998 BMW M3 3.2 Cabrio Alpinweiί III on Schwarz German spec 1 of 12
SMG SRA PDC AUC OBC GSM HK UURS IHKA FGR MFL
IG: https://www.instagram.com/iflok/
Window down - Window up..!
I'm having a major problem with my windows and its since I took my car in for a major service. When I got my 328ic back, the driver window was stuck middle way. They fiddled around with it till I asked them to pack it up and pull it up manually since I noticed they didn't know what they were doing.
As I drove off and tried to now pop the passenger window up, I realised it had also come stuck. I now have my passanger window stuck on fully open and my driver stuck on fully closed.
How do I resolve this problem..? I have a funny feeling I need to reset the both of them but where do I start..?
my driver's side window use to open and close by itself, I tried the reset trick but nothing worked, I put some lithium grease on the window gears and it stopped for about a month, then again the window did its thing - up and down, mostly when going over bumps, so then I just made a kill switch on the window's motor, maybe I'll do a write up if people wanna see my method.......
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