I was wondering if this wiring diagram i created is correct. Im fairly new to car audio and this is the first system i will be installing.
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looks decent but I'd ditch the capacitor. They're pretty much useless. Also, just in case, the ground wire from the amp should go directly to the chassis instead of to the battery and should only be about a foot or two long. Also, to avoid any noise, be sure to run the rca cables on the opposite side of the car as the power cable. And another thing, the main fuseblock should be about a foot away from the battery rather than between the cap and the amp.
Yea, I ditched the capicator. Do you mean run the patch cables on one side and the speaker wire on the other because there is not power wire due to the battery being in the trunk of the car.
and i just got the head unit and iPod adapter cable today because they were on sale at tweeter! w00t
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Hmmm---How do you think Power gets to the front of the car---to the starter????Do you mean run the patch cables on one side and the speaker wire on the other because there is not power wire due to the battery being in the trunk of the car.
Patch and speaker cables down one side---power down the other
the power cable from the battery to the front engine.. runs on the passenger side on a E36 if i am not mistaken!
its a Huge, Thick RED Cable..
oh ok sorry i was having a brian fart. i thought you were talking about a power cable from the battery to the amp, i didnt even think about to the starter and altinator and such.
That would make sense of the power being on the passenger side considering thats the side the battery is on.
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will 8 guage be thick enough to run for the power supply if i use the JL Audio 300/4? i have a friend that is an electrical engineer that said it would be.
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Why not jsut run a 4ga 2ga or 0 ga (it';s only a few feet), with a fuse distribution block so you can easily add that sub amp later by running only the power wire for ti to the fuse block, and a second ground. Go ahead and run the sub amp's RCAs now, and you'll thank me when installing the sub amp is a 5 minute job.
yea i was gonna go ahead and run the sub amp rca's like in the diagram. could i run 4 guage to the distribution block and then 8 guage off to both of the amps?
BTW: i got the head unit yesterday because it was on sale at tweeter (buy the head unit at full price and get the iPod cable free). w00t!
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To be honest with you, as little price difference as there is for just a couple of feet of wire, I'd go larger than the minimum, though 4 and 8 would probably be fine.
What's the fuse rating on that amp?
AND BTW, ground to amp's neg. to chassis. but not the amps metal body itself . then upgrade your negative to ground at the battery.
I'd probably run 6ga then.
all i am becoming frustrated ..i just put a new cd 43 in my 99 328ic (e36) i am getting no power to the radio period. the fuses look good but I am wondering if (because of the age of the car) i should go ahead and replace them.. this is a car i am restoring ...all other electrical components work perfect...but the radio is not one of my strengths..i can tell you on the harness the purple wire is hot.
Gatr2000,
I'd have suggested creating a new thread instead of pulling up one from 6 years ago!
I'm alarmed at the last part of where you say a wire is getting hot, this is the signs of bad wiring and installation and potentially lethal in that a fire can start. I STRONGLY suggest you take the car to a local reputable car audio installer who will do things correctly and most importantly, SAFELY for you.
Cheers, Dennis!
Ha yeah just caught the dates of this thread! the wire i was referring to is hot only when the ignition is on. i have discovered that my wire to the battery in the harness is no good (this wire should be hot at all times) ..i jumpered a wire from the battery to the radio harness and hooked it up..the radio came on. i am going to move to a new thread...thanks for the heads up though!
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