As long as I have been doing this track DE stuff, almost 10 years now, I have rotated between the ATE Super Blue and the TYP 200 because every supplier said they were the same.
Then last week I was ordering some parts for the Volvo from Volvo supplier IPD and in their catalog they had the boiling point for the ATE TYP 200 at several hundred degrees lower than the Super Blue???? I asked the sales rep on the phone and he confirmed it. Then I saw in one of the Porsche supply catalogs the same old "both are the same, so rotate so you can see the change in color".
Anybody have a can of both the Super Blue and the TYP 200 to see what they have for boiling points? Need to try to remember to check the garage when I get home, but not sure it I have both.
Here is a link to the IPD website about the 2 ATE fluids:
ATE TYP 200 & Super Blue
John Sabatini
'87 Porsche 911
'90 BMW 325is
'01 Volvo V70 T5
they have the same boiling points, wet and dry...
Thanks, guess I need to send that picture to IPD. Or maybe not, since they are charging less for the TYP 200.
John Sabatini
'87 Porsche 911
'90 BMW 325is
'01 Volvo V70 T5
I've learned the hard way that ATE Super Blue will stain your reservoir, which makes level checks more difficult. Before I learned that a local shop stocks AP551 I'd switched to using only ATE Type 200. There's no reason to alternate between two colors of fluid if you measure the amount that you bleed from each wheel. 250cc from each rear and 150cc from each front is more than enough to flush each circuit on a BMW.
The car makes it possible, but the driver makes it happen.
Jim Levie, Huntsville, AL
Same here. Originally I switced between the 2, but then I went to primarily the TYP 200 and would occasionally end up with the Super Blue when the TYP 200 was not available. That's why I was concerned when I heard about the lower boiling point of the TYP 200, I prefer the TYP 200 to the Super Blue.
John Sabatini
'87 Porsche 911
'90 BMW 325is
'01 Volvo V70 T5
bottles it need when changing the brake line on a 01 M Roadster?
Assuming you are speaking of the flexible lines to the calipers, assuming you either cap the line or depress the brake pedal slightly to prevent the fluid from running out, you should need very little -- one can would be plenty. The caliper will still be full, so it is just refilling the line and getting the air out.
I suggest you tap the caliper while bleeding to get the little bubbles out. You may need to re-bleed after you've driven some.
Technically blue brake fluid isn't DOT approved. I, personally, hate the stuff. You cannot see dirt or debris in the lines, and flushing all the blue color out is very tough. Yes, I know you're supposed to flush the brake systems every 2 years, which prevents excess build-up of water induced contaminants, but how many out of the millions of car owners ever do that? If you use the clear stuff, it is much easier for you or your repair shop to see whether there is a lot of "dirt" in the lines from seal deterioration. Also, old blue fluid looks like new blue fluid, while the yellow/clear stuff turns a very easy to see brown color.
Modern BMWs and most other cars require a low viscosity fluid due to the traction control and ABS systems, and blue/typ 200 are not. I don't have a supplier that sells the ATE SL.6, so we've gone with Motul 5.1 and RBF 600.
James Muskopf
RRT Racing
DC Metro's premier BMW service and racing facility
Just confirmed it today myself. The chart from dmwhite matches the cans I have. Need to call IPD and order some more TYP 200 at the cheaper price.
John Sabatini
'87 Porsche 911
'90 BMW 325is
'01 Volvo V70 T5
Not true. What happened was when you flush the brake, the DSC system won't be flushed out unless you use specialized tool to recycle the anti-lock brakes. So after even flushing your brakes, whenever you activated the anti-lock brake, the old fluid will get into your reservoir. Since you have Super Blue in the system, it will show as blue in the fresh filled fluid. There is no way around it. Unless you go to the dealer and pay royally to have your fluid replaced throughout the entire brake system, there is noway to completely flush the old fluid out.
Not only is this thread 11 years old, but you can't even buy super blue anymore.
You can cycle the ABS by shorting the fuse.
https://www.bimmerforums.com/forum/s...w-to-Cycle-ABS
- 96 328is 6.0L. (LS1 to LS2 build thread: http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum...ad.php?2098938)
- 96 328is 5.7L. (LS1 build thread: http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum....php?t=1289987)
- 95 ///M3 6.0L. (LS2 build thread: http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum....php?t=1619249)
- 97 ///M3. (e46 Fender Flares/track car build thread: http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum....php?t=1727098)
- 96 328is (Dual Fuel Pump to Surge Tank thread: http://www.bimmerforums.com/forum/sh...ad.php?1964025)
Not true. Super Blue will not stain your brake system What happened was when you flush the brake, the DSC system won't be flushed out unless you use specialized tool to recycle the anti-lock brakes. So after even flushing your brakes, whenever you activated the anti-lock brake, the old fluid will get into your reservoir. Since you had Super Blue in the system, it will show as blue in the fresh filled fluid. There is no way around it. Unless you go to the dealer and pay royally to have your fluid replaced throughout the entire brake
- - - Updated - - -
Not true. What happened was when you flush the brake, the DSC system won't be flushed out unless you use specialized tool to recycle the anti-lock brakes. So after even flushing your brakes, whenever you activated the anti-lock brake, the old fluid will get into your reservoir. Since you have Super Blue in the system, it will show as blue in the fresh filled fluid. There is no way around it. Unless you go to the dealer and pay royally to have your fluid replaced throughout the entire brake
ATE Super Blue will NOT stain your brake components. What happen is that when you flush your brakes, the brake fluid in your anti-lock brake cannot/won't be flushed. Since the old fluid (in this case ATE Blue) retains in the antilock brake enclosure, once you activated the antilock brake, old fluid within the system will be dumped and mixed into your fresh brake fluid. Hence the fluid gets a bluish tint. That is the old fluid that got recycled into the system. There is no way around it other than having the dealer flush your entire brake system with their instrument that will recycle the solenoid within the antilock brakes.
You can buy Super Blue in the US. It now comes with a disclaimer that states it is only to be used off roads.
My experience says it does stain components, as my reservoir is tinted blue.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
- 96 328is 6.0L. (LS1 to LS2 build thread: http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum...ad.php?2098938)
- 96 328is 5.7L. (LS1 build thread: http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum....php?t=1289987)
- 95 ///M3 6.0L. (LS2 build thread: http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum....php?t=1619249)
- 97 ///M3. (e46 Fender Flares/track car build thread: http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum....php?t=1727098)
- 96 328is (Dual Fuel Pump to Surge Tank thread: http://www.bimmerforums.com/forum/sh...ad.php?1964025)
Wait... ATE is still a thing? Do track folks still use cheap brake fluid? Have we not learned where it is safe to skimp and where it is not?
Terry Fair @ Vorshlag Motorsports
- 96 328is 6.0L. (LS1 to LS2 build thread: http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum...ad.php?2098938)
- 96 328is 5.7L. (LS1 build thread: http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum....php?t=1289987)
- 95 ///M3 6.0L. (LS2 build thread: http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum....php?t=1619249)
- 97 ///M3. (e46 Fender Flares/track car build thread: http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum....php?t=1727098)
- 96 328is (Dual Fuel Pump to Surge Tank thread: http://www.bimmerforums.com/forum/sh...ad.php?1964025)
jimmy p.
88 E30 M3 Zinnoberot - street
88 E30 M3 Lachsilber - SCCA SPU
87 E30 M3 Prodrive British Touring Car 2.0 Litre
04 Ford F350 - V10
06 Audi A3 Brilliant Red / 2.0 / DSG
+1 for ATE fluid. Used it for a very long time with great results.
Terry - when did you test back to back with ATE - and what was 'better'?
I find it to never boil, and not be as hydrophilic as the high dollar stuff.
2002 BMW M Roaster.
1998 BMW 328is SCCA E Production road racer.
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