01 E39 Keyless Entry Kaput?

[jederman54]

Both master keys can lock/unlock the car in the manual (in the door lock) mode only.
-the lights flash once and the acoustical signal sounds off when locking
-the alarm indicator lamp flashes when the vehicle is locked
-the central locking system button on the console functions
-the fuel filler door lock does not work
-there was a blown fuse (#53, central locking system) that I replaced in the trunck fuse tray

It seems unusual that both the master keys would stop transmitting at the same time. Any recomendations on how I identify/fix the problem? Thanks jman

[phoenix530]

I had a similar problem. The CLS wasn't working, but I could manually lock/unlock doors, truck, etc. Don't know about the fuel filler cap.

When I took my 2002 E39 into the dealer for CPO work, they first said it was a fuse (located in the truck that may be bad-you've already checked this). Did you check the fuses in the glove box? After they looked at the system, they found out that the keys somehow lost their "initialization" and had to be "re-initialized". Once done, I've had no more problems. I didn't have to do the re-initialization but do a search on this board and you may find the steps to do it.

[jederman54]

Thanks. I'll check the other fuses and search the forums for the key initiation process.

[Qsilver7]

have you looked in your owners manual for the initalizing process? I know my e38 manual does.

[jeremy339]

I have a 2001 BMW e39. My remote keyless entry stopped working. It will not lock or open any doors or any remote function. Any suggestions on a remedy?

Thank you.

[lhollis3]

There is a reinitialization procedure that I've seen here. You can find it if you look it up. It's something like; turn key to acc 1 position and turn it back to off within 5 seconds. Press the unlock button 3 times while holding the lock button in at the same time. Door locks will unlock and then lock. I know this isn't the procdure exactly so look it up. I had an issue with mine and swapped the battery and it worked great for a while. Now I'm having the same issue again. Couldn't get the reinitialization to work so not sure if it's that or the receiver in the car that may be the problem.

[Qsilver7]

I have a 2001 BMW e39. My remote keyless entry stopped working. It will not lock or open any doors or any remote function. Any suggestions on a remedy?

Thank you.

Try reprogramming the key...make sure you have ALL of your remote keys with you during the reinitializing procedure...if not...the one(s) not there will no longer lock/unlock & arm/disarm your car.

If the procedure below does NOT work, the lock the car manually (stick key in driver's door lock)...then walk around to the fuel filler door and see if you can open it. If you can, then your fuel filler door actuator is acting up...and the fuse for the fuel filler door may even be blown (it's in the trunk). If the fuse is blown, and you replace it and the fuse blows again, then you need to replace the fuel filler door actuator. This is a relatively common discussed issue...and can find past threads that discusses this issue...just use common key words to search by on the e39 forum like "fuel filler door" or "fuel filler door actuator".

Good luck.

[E391989]

would this work the same even if i have the horse shoe key?

[Qsilver7]

would this work the same even if i have the horse shoe key?

Close, but slightly different. The older style key (rubber head or "horse shoe") doesn't require that you manually lock/unlock the doors first...the instructions should be in your owners manual (unlike the new style keys)....and make sure that your batteries are up to snuff and not the culprit

Again, you MUST follow EVERY instruction to the "T". Here's the instruction reposted "again":

How to change the battery in the old style key...and how to tell if the battery is dying (since you have the low cluster...you won't get the REMOTE KEY BATTERY warning in the display):

[E391989]

Close, but slightly different. The older style key (rubber head or "horse shoe") doesn't require that you manually lock/unlock the doors first...the instructions should be in your owners manual (unlike the new style keys)....and make sure that your batteries are up to snuff and not the culprit

Again, you MUST follow EVERY instruction to the "T". Here's the instruction reposted "again":

How to change the battery in the old style key...and how to tell if the battery is dying (since you have the low cluster...you won't get the REMOTE KEY BATTERY warning in the display):

Thank you very much, i appreciate the help, i gotta try this when i get a chance

[Xeniczone]

Mine doesn't work at all. Mine is the horse shoe shaped key, and I have tried the syncing procedure several times with no luck. I replaced the battery in it and the LED comes on but the car doesn't seem to respond to it. Yes, I'm using position 1.

My best guess the capacitors are dried up, due to it being 13 years old. Though I don't know the values of the capacitors so replacing them is kind of out of the questions. My next attempt will be to buy a key of someone with a salvaged car and try to sync it.

[dontburntheday]

Thanks Qsilver7!

My car had died outside a valet station when they left the hazards on for hours and the key in pos 1. When I came out we had to jump it and the keys became "unpaired".
Your process worked like a charm and I was able to get them reinitialized in just a few minutes.

Cheers,

dontburntheday

[jeffnlexi]

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[Big Chaze]

Try reprogramming the key...make sure you have ALL of your remote keys with you during the reinitializing procedure...if not...the one(s) not there will no longer lock/unlock & arm/disarm your car.

If the procedure below does NOT work, the lock the car manually (stick key in driver's door lock)...then walk around to the fuel filler door and see if you can open it. If you can, then your fuel filler door actuator is acting up...and the fuse for the fuel filler door may even be blown (it's in the trunk). If the fuse is blown, and you replace it and the fuse blows again, then you need to replace the fuel filler door actuator. This is a relatively common discussed issue...and can find past threads that discusses this issue...just use common key words to search by on the e39 forum like "fuel filler door" or "fuel filler door actuator".

Good luck.

about that filler door. If the fuse or the actuator is faulty, will that keep the key from beeping/locking or rolling down the windows etc.??

[Bartholomeo]

Mine doesn't work at all. Mine is the horse shoe shaped key, and I have tried the syncing procedure several times with no luck. I replaced the battery in it and the LED comes on but the car doesn't seem to respond to it. Yes, I'm using position 1.

My best guess the capacitors are dried up, due to it being 13 years old. Though I don't know the values of the capacitors so replacing them is kind of out of the questions. My next attempt will be to buy a key of someone with a salvaged car and try to sync it.

Try position 2. I've had the same issue, tried the whole procedure multiple times without any succes. When i used Position 2, it all worked again.

[Qsilver7]

about that filler door. If the fuse or the actuator is faulty, will that keep the key from beeping/locking or rolling down the windows etc.??

Yes it can if trying to initiate lock/unlock & arm/disarm using & remote roll-down of windows using the buttons on the key. If the fuse (usually the one in the trunk) is blown...or if the fuel filler door actuator is faulty...it means that the central locking system FZV is not working properly. The RF signal is transmitted to the receiver in the C-pillar...which then sends a signal to the GM which then sends the info to the appropriate modules. But a blown fuse and/or a faulty fuel flap lock actuator can disrupt this communication.

Since the keyless entry (FBZV) works/communicates with the FZV system...when it is faulty...it stops the FBZV system from working.

If the fuse is blown and you replace it...or disconnect the fuel filler door actuator (if it's faulty)...then you can usually get the keyless (FBZV) system to work again. Unplugging the fuel filler door actuator (if its faulty) doesn't FIX the problem...but it does stop it from sending a fault to the central locking system. Much like disconnecting a faulty hood sensor etc.

[Big Chaze]

Holy crap...off to my car to check...will post back. Where are these fuses located?

[Qsilver7]

A usual culprit is the fuse in the trunk for the central locking system. Look for the fuse nbr & its location on the fuse index/diagram on the back of the battery compartment door. The fuses themselves are located above the battery.

Again, if the fuse is blown & you replace...but it blows again...then the culprit is usually the fuel filler door actuator. You can pull the electrical harness from it until you can get a replacement (some replace & some don't)..but it's your choice if fuel theft would be an issue for you.

[Big Chaze]

A usual culprit is the fuse in the trunk for the central locking system. Look for the fuse nbr & its location on the fuse index/diagram on the back of the battery compartment door. The fuses themselves are located above the battery.

Again, if the fuse is blown & you replace...but it blows again...then the culprit is usually the fuel filler door actuator. You can pull the electrical harness from it until you can get a replacement (some replace & some don't)..but it's your choice if fuel theft would be an issue for you.

Replaced the fuse and it blew again...wheres the actuator?

I found it...is it the rec black box with a green cable attached to it? I disconnected it and still nothing. Im gonna try to reinitialize the key again

mega fail...I suck. I tried every which way to initialize this damn key.
I put a higher amp fuse and still nothing. The actuator does lock the filler door and no more blown fuses...but no keyless entry.

[Qsilver7]

The green cable?...make sure that's not the manual release for the fuel filler flap door. And if the fuse blew again, make sure you replace it...pulling the electrical connector to the actuator without replacing the fuse won't work. Once you have a good fuse (and unplug the actuator)...then reprogram the keys.

You want to pull the electrical connector to the component in the pic below. The pic below is from an e38...but the e39 uses the same component. I have a Touring so I'm not sure if the e39 sedan has the same backing plate as the one in the e38.

(in the pic below of an e38's fuel door actuator...it is dismounted from the cross member and flipped around so that you can see it...so it means everything is on the opposite side when it is mounted to the car...you can see the electrical harness attached to the lower left in the pic...that's what you need to look for)

[jeffnlexi]

Can you just leave the full door actuator unplugged and get the doors/trunk to lock and unlock normally and say forget the fix?

[RhoanW]

Qsilver which 5 series do you get that message with about the remote key battery?

[Big Chaze]

The green cable?...make sure that's not the manual release for the fuel filler flap door. And if the fuse blew again, make sure you replace it...pulling the electrical connector to the actuator without replacing the fuse won't work. Once you have a good fuse (and unplug the actuator)...then reprogram the keys.

You want to pull the electrical connector to the component in the pic below. The pic below is from an e38...but the e39 uses the same component. I have a Touring so I'm not sure if the e39 sedan has the same backing plate as the one in the e38.

(in the pic below of an e38's fuel door actuator...it is dismounted from the cross member and flipped around so that you can see it...so it means everything is on the opposite side when it is mounted to the car...you can see the electrical harness attached to the lower left in the pic...that's what you need to look for)

QSilver is goddddddddddddd!!!!!
It worked!! I decided to give it one last shot and by god it worked.
I think i may have been doing something wrong all along.
Heres what I did:

Took car outta garage (reception,? maybee...)
Locked car manually then unlocked (hadnt been doing that step)
Turned key to pos 1
removed key after about 2 seconds
held down button 2
pressed button 3 times and bam.

Must note....I plugged the actuator back in and installed a higher rated fuse before attempting to initialize again.

Thanks Q for your time and patience with us...

[Qsilver7]

...It worked!! I decided to give it one last shot and by god it worked...Thanks Q for your time and patience with us...

Great...glad you got it sorted out.

Qsilver which 5 series do you get that message with about the remote key battery?

The REMOTE KEY BATTERY warning is one of the PRIORITY 2 warnings of the HIGH instrument cluster (the one with the 20-digit alpha/numeric display).

Again, you may or may not get that warning on your HIGH cluster...it depends on how low the voltage is on the battery. Since the new style keys get charged when they are in the ignition...they are more likely to never see this warning from the key that get's used daily (or almost daily). Perhaps if one has a spare new style key...and it get's put into use when the key's battery voltage is low...it could possibly illuminate the PRIORITY 2 warning if the buttons are pressed before the key gets a chance to get recharged while in the ignition:

(info for NEW STYLE (diamond shaped) key only)

The car's with the old style remote keys are more likely to see this warning because their design (with the red LED) allows them to communicate the health of it's battery...unlike the new style key which you have to guess if the battery is charged or not. There are 3 tell tale signs for low battery voltage...and you may get 1, 2, or all 3 of the warnings for a low battery:

1. REMOTE KEY BATTERY may appear in the instrument cluster display (if you have the HIGH instr cluster)
2. red LED may fail to illuminate, or lights up weakly
3. doors may lock...BUT...not UNLOCK when using the remote