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Thread: Spal electric fan wiring DIY

  1. #101
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    are a waste of money
    Good job, but if the aux fan works it's pretty good IMO. I'm glad to see you re-used the existing wiring from the aux fan to your Spal.

  2. #102
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    Hey Eric.

    I was recently followed your DIY and it has worked great! Thanks a lot. For a first time electrical- "experimenter" I am very pleased. Unfortunately, I could not found those rather trick motorcycle piggy back connectors. I bought a soldering iron and set to work that way.

    Installed an all new cooling system and spal fan that is working and I couldn't be happier. I'm really glad I did this route instead of going the lower thermostat temp FDM route. ......When the Spal and Aux fan are both on there is a lot of CFM pulling through those kidney grills.....all smiles....all the way to the track.

    Really thanks a lot man.

    Trent.

    Likely you'll see my other post under mishimoto topic. Motivated me to give you a personal thank you, couldn't have done it without you.

    .....ok enough BJ's for tonight HA...peace

  3. #103
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    Is there enough power coming straight out of the fan switch to run an electric fan? So when the fan switch comes to temp, the power goes straight to the fan (and not worry about the relay etc.)?

    If not, can I supply 12v straight from the battery to one terminal of the fan switch, so when the fan switch comes to temp and completes the circuit, the 12v go to the fan?

    I have a motor swap and my wiring is all screwy anyway, so I don't care if this is far from oem, i just want to easiest route.
    97 black civic LX auto
    92 red 318is (Euro 3.0L + intake/exhaust with bilsteins and GC coilovers fr/H&R race rear. Everything else is from an M3 except front subframe,strut hats and cosmetics... for now)

  4. #104
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    I'm about to do this when I get back....great info Eric! I bought my 16" spal fan from bimmerworld and I also purchased the mounting kit....I have absolutely no idea, looking at the mounting kit, how those little pieces are used...anyone have experience with it and can actually tell me? If I don't use it, where can I get those brackets, sheet metal screws and clip nuts?
    1997 Arctic Silver/Black M3
    CES Stage IV (651rwhp/615rwtq @ 24 psi)

    1999 Techno Violet/Dove M3
    Auto/Convertible and staying stock!

  5. #105
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    On another note, is there anything wrong with soldering the connections or should i use butt connectors?
    1997 Arctic Silver/Black M3
    CES Stage IV (651rwhp/615rwtq @ 24 psi)

    1999 Techno Violet/Dove M3
    Auto/Convertible and staying stock!

  6. #106
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    bump for opinions on my previous question....about to install the fan, would like to know....probably just going to use those splice connectors and tape over them.
    1997 Arctic Silver/Black M3
    CES Stage IV (651rwhp/615rwtq @ 24 psi)

    1999 Techno Violet/Dove M3
    Auto/Convertible and staying stock!

  7. #107
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    Quote Originally Posted by BMWManiac View Post
    bump for opinions on my previous question....about to install the fan, would like to know....probably just going to use those splice connectors and tape over them.
    if you can get good connectors I would just use them...solder and shrink tube if not.

    you can get a sheet metal screw kit at harbor freight for like 8 bucks.

    as far as your mounting kit goes I'm not sure what you have but I posted pics of my mounts earlier in the thread.

    E
    Eric Paul Eviston - 1 Piece Silicone Hose M50 Manifold Conversion Kit

    ******M50 Manifold Install Trouble Shooting Guide Here: www.m50manifold.com

    '98 M3/4 - ECIS CAI, S50 Manifold, Conforti Software, 16" Spal Puller, UUC Pulleys, Fan Delete, UUC Stage 2 Fly w/M5 Clutch, UUC Blacks w/TMEs, X-Brace, GC RTAB shims, GC RSMs,
    M Roadster lever, 245x40x17 all 4 corners, Drilled Zimmermans, Motul RBF600 and Redline Synth fluids.
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  8. #108
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    if you got the push through nylon rods then you just push them through the radiator, put the back piece on and the fan stays. (think zip tie)

    I would just use butt connectors. They are quick and easy.
    RIP~95 325is Schwartz (Parts car)

    95 Dakar M3
    S52b32 swap. Conforti Eurosport Intake, UUC UDP's, OBDII Headers/mid, UUC System U v.2 CatBack, OEM X Brace, GC Track Coilovers w/GC Solid Camber/Caster plates, Powerflex CAB's, TMS Swaybars, Powerflex Urethane RTAB's, UUC Street TM's, Understeer SSK, UUC SS Brake Lines, SPAL Fan Swap, Mishi Alum radiator, SSR Comp II's


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  9. #109
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    Quote Originally Posted by Maj.Malfunction View Post
    if you got the push through nylon rods then you just push them through the radiator, put the back piece on and the fan stays. (think zip tie)

    I would just use butt connectors. They are quick and easy.
    the bayonets were designed for like a max 10 inch fan. I used them to keep the fan tight against the radiator and keep it from vibrating but I used the mounting kit to support the weight of the fan. I wouldn't use the bayonets as a stand alone mount for the 16 inch fan...that could take out your radiator core after a few good bumps.

    E
    Eric Paul Eviston - 1 Piece Silicone Hose M50 Manifold Conversion Kit

    ******M50 Manifold Install Trouble Shooting Guide Here: www.m50manifold.com

    '98 M3/4 - ECIS CAI, S50 Manifold, Conforti Software, 16" Spal Puller, UUC Pulleys, Fan Delete, UUC Stage 2 Fly w/M5 Clutch, UUC Blacks w/TMEs, X-Brace, GC RTAB shims, GC RSMs,
    M Roadster lever, 245x40x17 all 4 corners, Drilled Zimmermans, Motul RBF600 and Redline Synth fluids.
    My Dyno HERE
    My Website:
    www.m50manifold.com
    My Email:
    info@m50manifold.com


  10. #110
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    I used a 3/4 in strip of aluminum that I drilled out. I bolted the fan to it and self tapped it to the upper and lower edges of my stock radiator. I also wired the trigger for the relay to ACC so the spal is always running. Since I installed it friday, I have idled the car in traffic for an hour on a 95+ degree day and the temp never got too far out of the blue area. Not even close to the 12 O'clock position.

    I have been driving the car almost non stop for a few days and the temp has never gotten past the little line just above the blue area more than 1/8 in or so.

    SPAL + running all the time FTMFW....

  11. #111
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    Quote Originally Posted by E36HB View Post
    I used a 3/4 in strip of aluminum that I drilled out. I bolted the fan to it and self tapped it to the upper and lower edges of my stock radiator. I also wired the trigger for the relay to ACC so the spal is always running. Since I installed it friday, I have idled the car in traffic for an hour on a 95+ degree day and the temp never got too far out of the blue area. Not even close to the 12 O'clock position.

    I have been driving the car almost non stop for a few days and the temp has never gotten past the little line just above the blue area more than 1/8 in or so.

    SPAL + running all the time FTMFW....
    Let me know how that gas mileage and plug fouling work for you.
    ----Dave----

  12. #112
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    I have a question for everyone... What is the CFM of the fans that you guys are running? I currently have a 2070CFM 16" curved blade fan that I am going to hook up this weekend. Is that sufficient or should I bump up to a duel fan setup (two 10" or 13" fans) or a 16" 3000CFM fan?

  13. #113
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    Yeah, the bimmerworld mounting kit has the nylon rods you push through....I'm assuming this is how they mount their fan on their race cars...but I guess not. If anything, I'll look for some supporting mounts....perhaps just one to be safe.
    1997 Arctic Silver/Black M3
    CES Stage IV (651rwhp/615rwtq @ 24 psi)

    1999 Techno Violet/Dove M3
    Auto/Convertible and staying stock!

  14. #114
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    Quote Originally Posted by BMWManiac View Post
    Yeah, the bimmerworld mounting kit has the nylon rods you push through....I'm assuming this is how they mount their fan on their race cars...but I guess not. If anything, I'll look for some supporting mounts....perhaps just one to be safe.
    Let me know how it goes Alex bc you can help me on this too. LOL

    I have one just need to put it in.

  15. #115
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    Yeah, I'm just worried that the PWR radiator places the fan clost to the water pump...
    1997 Arctic Silver/Black M3
    CES Stage IV (651rwhp/615rwtq @ 24 psi)

    1999 Techno Violet/Dove M3
    Auto/Convertible and staying stock!

  16. #116
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    Quote Originally Posted by BMWManiac View Post
    Yeah, I'm just worried that the PWR radiator places the fan clost to the water pump...
    I saw another thread where it was like 1/2-1in away. Thats actually what Im waiting to do- wait for the money to get the new radiator and do it all at the same time.

  17. #117
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    Ok, so I started a bit tonight and will tackle the rest tomorrow, and here are some things to note.

    The relay kit for the fan require one more connector; 1 x yellow wire to connect to the red wire w/ the 30 amp fuse

    The kit provides another small connector for the grey wire, but you'll tap into the black/grey wire for the coolant sensor.

    The 16" fan recommended by Bimmerworld is straight blade and is pretty thin (about 2") and I'm sensing should have no issue coming in contact with the water pump when mounted to the PWR radiator. The PWR radiator is also about the same width as my S54 radiator, so should be good to go....more to follow!
    1997 Arctic Silver/Black M3
    CES Stage IV (651rwhp/615rwtq @ 24 psi)

    1999 Techno Violet/Dove M3
    Auto/Convertible and staying stock!

  18. #118
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    i put a nissan sentra fan on my e39 :P
    just 40 bucks 14 inch fan the temperature over here is 100f on the day and in traffic.
    and it gets the job done
    96 318is Sport --sold
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  19. #119
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    I am about to list the Spal fan with the brackets I showed in the pic before. I mounted up the 57mm PWR and that thing is a BEAST! In fact, I had to cut my shroud down to nothing to fit in the overflow. It actually looks much cleaner than the garbage stock fan shroud. From the nut of the Stewart water pump to the fan measures just about/under 3" IIRC.

    I will post pics tomorrow of the install.
    ----Dave----

  20. #120
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    I also installed the PWR 57mm radiator. Not much room between radiator and water pump. I installed the Spal 16" slim fan 1300CFM that is 2.05" thick and have around 1/2" space between the fan and pump. I installed the temp switch in a hose adapter on the lwr radiator hose. I might change that over and use the low temp switch to turn that on and the high temp to turn on the aux fan. The car runs cool and i also put a manual over ride switch inside. Mine is wired off the battery bus which allows it to run after shut down, which is great unless i forget and kill the battery -Ha

  21. #121
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    I've also installed a 55mm PWR radiator in my 3lt euro m3, i used a 2.63"x16" 1900cfm spal fan, and is wired up using a bosch relay and my own wiring, the same as this diy...

    PWR looks so sick

  22. #122
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    Quote Originally Posted by E36M3E View Post
    that's why I don't like the FDM stuff with lower temp thermos and lower set points for fan switches...you really do want your motor to get up to temp quickly and stay there.

    Eric
    I have read all the topic and the big one related to FDM. I intend to do the mod myself. Here in Bucharest in the summer the absolute maximum temp is 40C (104F) with A LOT of stop&go traffic so I'm very concerned about overheating.

    I don't agree myself with all the FDM stuff especialy with the lower temp thermostat because of the reason you said BUT let's remember that the entire cooling system was designed to operate with the clutch fan (almost) always ON. So I think I will install the lower temp thermoswitch and a puller "spal" operated by the same thermoswitch. I will wire the spal with complete separate wires, fuse and relays. I want my spal to come on low speed at 80C along with the aux and on high speed at 88C along with aux fan.

    The thermostat will remain stock so in this way I think that the engine operating temperature will not be too afected because if the temperature in the radiator will drop too much the thermostat will close a little allowing the engine to mantain its designed temperature.

    Any advice is more than welcome.
    Last edited by cristimm; 11-12-2008 at 01:06 PM.

  23. #123
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    Quote Originally Posted by cristimm View Post
    I have read all the topic and the big one related to FDM. I intend to do the mod myself. Here in Bucharest in the summer the absolute maximum temp is 40C (104F) with A LOT of stop&go traffic so I'm very concerned about overheating.

    I don't agree myself with all the FDM stuff especialy with the lower temp thermostat because of the reason you said BUT let's remember that the entire cooling system was designed to operate with the clutch fan (almost) always ON. So I think I will install the lower temp thermoswitch and a puller "spal" operated by the same thermoswitch. I will wire the spal with complete separate wires, fuse and relays. I want my spal to come on low speed at 80C along with the aux and on high speed at 88C along with aux fan.

    The thermostat will remain stock so in this way I think that the engine operating temperature will not be too afected because if the temperature in the radiator will drop too much the thermostat will close a little allowing the engine to mantain its designed temperature.

    Any advice is more than welcome.
    not sure this will work very good. when your 88c thermo opens and lets the 88c coolant into the radiator both fans will turn onto low speed probably immediately and then pretty quickly onto high speed. then your thermo will close mostly and the flow will be restricted to almost nothing. then the fans will shut off.

    I think what you may end up with will be a cycling affect that will drive the engine crazy...expand - contract - expand - contract. this is why usually the fan switch is set to a higher temp then the thermo so the temp can be regulated more by the radiator flow and then the fans...the thermo is really only there to close when the engine is shut down to allow for warm up on restart.

    I can tell you from experience here in SoCal where the ambient temps in the summer are 100+ degrees for weeks, sometimes months in a row...and we do have a bit of traffic around here...my stock 91/99 switch and 88 tstat work very well with my electric fans. the aux comes on low in stop and go traffic and the spal and the aux almost never come on high...it works that good.

    good luck. let us know how it works.

    E
    Eric Paul Eviston - 1 Piece Silicone Hose M50 Manifold Conversion Kit

    ******M50 Manifold Install Trouble Shooting Guide Here: www.m50manifold.com

    '98 M3/4 - ECIS CAI, S50 Manifold, Conforti Software, 16" Spal Puller, UUC Pulleys, Fan Delete, UUC Stage 2 Fly w/M5 Clutch, UUC Blacks w/TMEs, X-Brace, GC RTAB shims, GC RSMs,
    M Roadster lever, 245x40x17 all 4 corners, Drilled Zimmermans, Motul RBF600 and Redline Synth fluids.
    My Dyno HERE
    My Website:
    www.m50manifold.com
    My Email:
    info@m50manifold.com


  24. #124
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    I don' agree with you on this. Let me explain why.

    Let's asume the following scenario. Driving your car in freezing winter with 80+ miles per hour. In this case there is an enormous ammount of cold airflow through the radiator and ONLY the thermostat will set the operating temp of your engine by opening/closing to a certain point depending of his temperature rating. So in my oppinion in the radiator there must be always a buffer of lower temperature coolant (even in the summer) and that's why i think it is a good ideea to have a lower temp thermoswitch.

  25. #125
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    It is best to have the fan switch set marginally higher than the thermostat or yes the fans will be operating constantly and the engine will fluctuate between ~20-30 degrees very quickly. My setup works perfect. 75C thermo, 80C fan switch wired for high speed.

    Fan comes on sitting in traffic after about 3-4 min. Runs for about 2 min then shuts off. Temps stay very close to 180 constantly.
    460whp/515wtq wifes MMW tuned 335i

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