91 deg C is 195.8 deg F
99 deg C is 210.2 deg F
Also if you want to run your aux fan after the car is off you can just turn the electrical back on. If the temps are high enough it will run until they go below the temp sensor rating. This is also assuming you don't have a light weight battery as it could drain it too much.
Three questions:
1. Does anyone have a DIY (or just know the best way) to wire the fan to a manual switch down by the dash light dimmer switch or something?
2. Does anyone know offhand what the max depth a fan can be and still fit?
3. Is the "mounting kit" that Bimmerworld sells sufficient to mount these fans properly? I see many of you have other rigs.
Thanks
[2004 330xi/6] Orient/Natural :: 117-142k :: ZSP :: ZPP :: ZCW
[1998 M3/4/5] Cosmos/Black :: 113-125k :: TCKline D/A (500/600) :: GC Plates :: RD Sways :: GC Rear Arms :: ZHP Rack :: 3.64 Diffsonline :: PF FCAB :: BW RTAB :: AKG Subframe :: TMS Pulleys :: AA & Borla :: XBrace :: TRM C2s :: BW lines :: DTC60 :: Safety Equipment
Past:
[1995 M3] Avus/Dove :: 141-242k :: S52 OBDI :: M50 manifold :: 3.5 HFM :: Turner Chip :: XBrace :: SS Lines :: Turner RTABS :: Vogtland CS :: Bilstein Sport :: Z3 rack
[1999 M3] Cosmos/Black :: 65-87k :: TCKline S/A (400/500) :: Turner plates :: UUC Front Sway :: PF RTABs :: AA Intake :: Borla :: XBrace :: TRM C2s :: CL RC6E :: Safety Equipment
[1993 325is] Brilliant/Black :: 135-139k :: Bilstein sports :: Eibach sways and springs :: Dinan camber plates and chip :: Borla :: LSD
[1983 320i] Safari/Brownish :: 219-242k :: homebrew CAI :: some rust :: multicolor body panels
not sure how you could turn the electric back on, and have the fan still turn off, and not drain the battery?? the electric would still be powered...????
my aux fan after a hard 30 minute track session, turns off before I even get back to the paddock at a slow crawl through the hot grid, and back into the paddock area..... and I have mine set for 80C kick point with 90 degree ambient temps... not sure how the fan would be running for more than a couple minutes TOPS at idle to cool everything down and turn off...
"Torque is like cowbell... you can never have too much." - Michael Cervi
Question:
I will be upgrading my rad to the new Carr Industry aluminum unit. It's a bit thicker than stock So my question is would running a pusher fan (on front of rad) be as efficient as running a puller? I don't have the aux fan, it broke awhile ago and I just took it off. There is no AC condenser in the way, but there will be an FMIC where the condenser was. I just don't know which would be better a push or a pull. My guess is there won't be room for a puller with the CARR aluminum rad.
Sorry if this thread is old, I just found it.
Has Carr told you when they will have the aluminum expansion tank available? They told me they were trying for this summer, but there was a delay. They were going to have a radiator, the aluminum expansion tank, and an electric fan as a set.
the radiator will go on sale within a month, everything else has been delayed irrc. They have 3 of the rads in and are testing one on an FI car, one on a Track car, and the third on a track/street car. Once they are done with testing they will start selling. I didn't know if the fan in the eventual kit is going to be push or pull. It may be pull since most people still have their aux.
carr has been selling that alum radiator for a while now. I've installed two of them in my friends car's... they are STOCK size and a puller fan will work fine with it. no issues, as I reinstalled the stock fan shroud, and stock fan clutch back in one of my friends car, and the other we installed a spal puller....
"Torque is like cowbell... you can never have too much." - Michael Cervi
Carr + SPAL =
wish i had pics of my zionsville with alum shroud, spal electric fan, and alum overflow tank out of the car right now
i have a bunch of it in the car, and worth every penny... looks gorgeous .... and it works really well too... LOL
"Torque is like cowbell... you can never have too much." - Michael Cervi
Nice setup, anyone is way better off with a stock all aluminum radiator with a good puller fan than a big radiator without a fan.
You also will pull enough air through the condensor at idle for the AC if you still have it.
I plan on upgrading to an all aluminum radiator next year and will see if the aux fan in the stock location is good enough. If not, then SPAL fan here I come.
Negative, They no longer sell the rads you speak of. They were by Ireland engineering and after a few issues they decided to up the ante and go with a much better design in the 400-500 range. This new radiator won't be out for another month. I'm on the waiting list.
http://forum.e36-tech.com/viewtopic....=1897&start=30Also, concerning the radiators, we are our changing our radiator manufacturer and will be carrying a new all alloy unit incorporating a all alloy reservoir, bleed screw, and cap. The radiators will be available by the end of June, and the reservoirs near the end of August. Our old radiator manufacturer(the same as Ireland Engineering) has made some upgrades as of late that have cured a lot of the leak issues, but we have decided to take the quality up a notch and sell a all around better radiator in the $400-500 range.
Thanks,
Brian
Bfowler@Carrindustries.com
Current:
Alpine White E46 325i Touring S54 6MT
Titanium Silver E39 540i Touring M-Sport S62 6MT
Past:
Alpine White E46 330i ZHP Sedan S54 6MT
Interlagos Blue E85 Z4 M Roadster 6MT
Le Mans Blue E92 M3 6MT
Japan Red E46 325i Touring S54 6MT
Estoril Blue Individual E46 M3 Coupe 6MT
Cosmos Black E36 M3 Coupe S54 6MT
Alpine White E92 M3 6MT
Alpine White E90 M3 6MT
Laguna Seca Blue E46 M3 Coupe 6MT
Jet Black E36 325is S52 5MT
Lagoon Green E36 325is 5MT
Zionsville FTW.
Anything else is just meh Though you will need to do this
Current:
Alpine White E46 325i Touring S54 6MT
Titanium Silver E39 540i Touring M-Sport S62 6MT
Past:
Alpine White E46 330i ZHP Sedan S54 6MT
Interlagos Blue E85 Z4 M Roadster 6MT
Le Mans Blue E92 M3 6MT
Japan Red E46 325i Touring S54 6MT
Estoril Blue Individual E46 M3 Coupe 6MT
Cosmos Black E36 M3 Coupe S54 6MT
Alpine White E92 M3 6MT
Alpine White E90 M3 6MT
Laguna Seca Blue E46 M3 Coupe 6MT
Jet Black E36 325is S52 5MT
Lagoon Green E36 325is 5MT
anyone try those ebay slim fans? there cheap, its just a fan i dont see why its not as good as any other
I'd like to add something to this thread if it hasn't been mentioned already.
There are (2) Green/White wires in the diagnostic port. You want to use the THICKER of the two. I tapped into the smaller one and it obviously didn't work.
Current:
Alpine White E46 325i Touring S54 6MT
Titanium Silver E39 540i Touring M-Sport S62 6MT
Past:
Alpine White E46 330i ZHP Sedan S54 6MT
Interlagos Blue E85 Z4 M Roadster 6MT
Le Mans Blue E92 M3 6MT
Japan Red E46 325i Touring S54 6MT
Estoril Blue Individual E46 M3 Coupe 6MT
Cosmos Black E36 M3 Coupe S54 6MT
Alpine White E92 M3 6MT
Alpine White E90 M3 6MT
Laguna Seca Blue E46 M3 Coupe 6MT
Jet Black E36 325is S52 5MT
Lagoon Green E36 325is 5MT
I think my fan switch is bad so the previous owner had my aux fan hooked up to a switch, that I just turn on in traffic/autox. I am replacing the clutch fan with an electric fan from a ford taurus and was wondering: if the fan switch is good why can't I just hook the aux fan straight to the low-speed-wire, and the taurus fan straight up to the high-speed-wire from the switch? a/c was removed from the car
BUMP, is it safe to run just the spal on the high switch? My aux fan makes my car vibrate and makes noise, I rather have it off. But it needs power for the spal to come on!
I deleted my clutch fan a long time ago and recently had my aux die while in traffic. When I made it home I ordered a spal pusher, took the front bumper off the car, stripped all the a/c along with the worthless aux fan and cut the aux fan plug off the wiring harness. When the spal came I mounted it on the rad and soldered both positive wires from the car to the positive for the fan and neg to neg. It's been doing great for the past month, no issues.
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