It is an on/off switch with 3 prongs; one of these.
I dont think it is a "double throw".
The "power" going into the temp switch is not power from the battery, it is the black/white wire that goes into the temp switch. This one specifically,Why do you have power going to your temperature switch? The switch is a ground loop. It gets hot, the wax inside melts, the wires on and out are allowed to connect, and connecting those two (or three) wires grounds the factory relay and allows it to turn on. You may be shorting the wiring, causing the problems you are experiencing.
And hopefully not damaging any other wiring that is interconnected.
I have relay Pin 86 spliced into that black/white wire as well as the "signal" prong from the on/off switch sliced into that same wire. Is this wrong?
You had the temp switch marked as power going in so I assumed you mis-wired and sent power to it. If you have not and it is still the ground loop triggering the factory relays, that is fine. It could probably trigger your relay as well. There are a few ways to skin that cat. You could have the factory relay power out trigger your relay, for example. Most people splice into the temp switch wires just to make high speed run when the switch reaches the low speed threshold. If you are not adding power and just connecting into the ground loop, that is fine.
Richard’s suggestion of looking at the toggle switch is a good idea. He is an engineer. I am just a lawyer who DIYs. Try removing the toggle switch. Why have one?
If you must, what is it you are trying to do with the toggle? Isn’t it just to provide an alternative ground path to trigger your relay when the temp switch is not triggering it? If so, why run power to the toggle switch? Just ground. With the toggle on, the alternative ground is allowed and triggers the relay and allows power to the fan.
Last edited by pbonsalb; 06-01-2020 at 04:17 PM.
Your assumptions to the toggle switch are correct, I just want the switch to stand as a manual alternative to turn the fan on whenever I want. You're saying to ground both the signal/accessory pin from the switch as well as the ground pin? This would give me the effect I want? Like this guy's diagram in min 4.15 correct? https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oNdS2az4-so
Otherwise, my relay wiring is fine correct? To clarify the wiring I have, my relay's 86 pin goes into the black/white (low temp?) wire where this wire connects to the radiator temp switch. This black/white wire I am assuming goes to the 87 equivalent of the factory relay. Is this right?
Last edited by graphikg; 06-02-2020 at 01:04 PM.
Another quick question, does the ground (pin 85) from my added (aftermarket) relay need to go to the ground loop of the factory relay (aka the brown wire)? Or is it ok if it just attached to chassis ground? Right now it is on chassis ground - could that be one of the problems here?
To do what you want, leave the original fan operation alone, which is through grounding of the wires that pass through the temp switch. They are the trigger for the high and low speed relay for the factory auxiliary pusher fan; they do not go to the 87 or equivalent of any relay. I assume you are replacing the belt driven fan with an electric puller fan. You could trigger your relay for that using the same ground path. What I don’t know is whether the low speed turns off when the high speed turns on or whether your new fan would continue to run if you triggered it with the low speed switch wire. Maybe you have to bridge the high and low switch wires, but that would affect the aux fan. Then you simply provide a separate alternative ground path to trigger the relay through your toggle switch.
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