Spal electric fan wiring DIY

[xvxax]

What about a push fan (or dual setup?) to replace the OEM elec fan? Or do people generally not do that sort of thing because the shroud needs to stay intact? And pull fan can be converted to push if you reverse the motor right? My aux fan has been dead for over a year now, time to get it fixed.

[E36M3E]

So wtf was the size again of this fan ?

16" puller...about 3.4" thick.

[Capital]

I realize this is an old thread but it's a really good writeup. I'm just getting ready to do this, the fan is mounted I just need to run the wires.

I am wondering, what's the purpose of the orange wire going to the diagnostic port?

[Getconnectedav]

Wow that is complicated....I just spliced into the power wire to the aux fan (located in wiring loom behind drivers side headlight) and ran ground to grounding bolt in same location.

Not a good power source for the fan. The fan draws very high amperage. You should not be using anything but dedicated power for the SPAL. The DIY write up is the correct way to do the wiring.

[E36M3E]

I realize this is an old thread but it's a really good writeup. I'm just getting ready to do this, the fan is mounted I just need to run the wires.

I am wondering, what's the purpose of the orange wire going to the diagnostic port?

Its been a while since I did the install but I think:

Switched power to the fan relay...turns your fan off when you turn the key off.

Eric

[Getconnectedav]

High amperage over skinny old wiring = heat

add in some Time and you get = short or even possibly electrical fire

rare, but possible.

[Getconnectedav]

Its been a while since I did the install but I think:

Switched power to the fan relay...turns your fan off when you turn the key off.

+1

[Capital]

Brilliant. Thank you for the answer and especially the write-up

[Master Shake]

why is everyone using puller fan instead of pusher fan? Is there any advantage of one over the other?

It seems that using a pusher leaves more room behind the radiator to get at engine parts (pulleys, etc) if necessary.

[millm3]

why is everyone using puller fan instead of pusher fan? Is there any advantage of one over the other?

It seems that using a pusher leaves more room behind the radiator to get at engine parts (pulleys, etc) if necessary.

if you use a pusher fan on the engine side of the radiator, it will work against the airflow while driving and that would not be very efficient.

Pusher fans are used on the the other side of the radiator. The aux fan is a pusher fan.

[bimmeracer3]

One more question, when the car switches to high temp and the electrical fan comes on, do you still have the aux fan connected to also turn on to high speed>?

[bdifc]

the main reason I did it was to keep the engine fan from exploding and taking out my hood and new radiator. kinda like $175 worth of insurance.

and there maybe is a tiny bit of HP freed up.
E

First off, this is a good write up. I did a similar setup in my old E30 with an S52 since I couldn't run a clutch fan due to space limitations.

However, not to be a dick, but $175 worth of insurance is more than the price of a new OE fan and fan clutch. I recently replaced mine for less than that as part of my preventative maintenance.

I didn't go with an E-fan on my e36 for the following reasons:

• I have not seen any quantitative CFM comparisons for the stock clutch fan vs an electric fan.
• I sincerely doubt there's a worthwhile HP gain with an e-fan. Consider that there are less stages of conversion to power the clutch fan. The energy driving the e-fan is converted from belt drive to electricity that powers a motor, whereas with the clutch fan is directly powered by the belt drive. The clutch fan seems more efficient since there's less energy conversion.
• BMW equips the e46 M3 with a clutch fan despite the fact the e46 330 ZHP comes with an electric fan. That and the fact that the automatics required a clutch fan all leads me to believe BMW has more faith in a clutch fan for high demand cooling situations.

Anyway, to each his own, but there's definitely a reason BMW opts to go with a clutch fan in the first place.

[E36M3E]

One more question, when the car switches to high temp and the electrical fan comes on, do you still have the aux fan connected to also turn on to high speed>?

yes... the new fan's switched wire is piggybacked on the high temp switch along with the OE aux fan's high speed switched wire.

bdifc, I don't have a problem with any of your arguments. all very sound logic. but I have something to offer. the only time you're using power to drive the e-fan is when it's on. and if it's wired to the high temp switch is almost never, at least in my case not even stop and go traffic in 100 degree weather. a viscous clutch fan is always in some state of motion and is designed to be 100% engaged at a much lower temp than the e-fans.

as far as the CFM question goes...I have been using this fan for over a year now and every time it has turned on it has cooled the coolant and turned itself off in a matter of a minute or so and usually doesn't cycle right back on. at an auto-x, in the middle of our 100 degree summers, in the line-up after a run it usually would come on once and then stay off. I can't say the same for the way the clutch fan operated. in the same conditions the clutch fan was up there roaring away the entire time I was waiting for my next run.

also I have heard of people replacing their clutch fans only to have them blow up a week later. this is usually due to failed motor mounts or a fan damaged during install but none the less, if my motor mounts suddenly go bad without me noticing, I don't have to worry about my fan taking out my cooling system and hood.

oh and it's not that big a deal but there's a little more room up there now to do maint on belts and pulleys and pulling the radiator no longer requires pulling the fan.

Eric

[NASA144]

question...
I have a 95 with the 88 degree t-stat (stock setup), can't I just remove the clutch fan at track events only with two bottles of wetter water in. the aux fan would kick in on hot pit, right?

[MisterBimmerMan]

Good write up. I would like to know what is the optimal temp for a E-fan to come on full speed at? Mine is currently temp activated at 180 degrees via the upper radiator hose.

[E36M3E]

Good write up. I would like to know what is the optimal temp for a E-fan to come on full speed at? Mine is currently temp activated at 180 degrees via the upper radiator hose.

I can't tell you what optimal would be but I can tell you that BMW puts 2 temp thresholds on the switch. and the OE aux fan comes on full speed with the higher threshold and only low speed at the lower threshold. I can't remember what those corresponding temps are...I think they're listed in this thread somewhere though.

so I wired my spal to come on with the upper temp switch as well as the OE aux fan.

E

[wheresmym3]

I just installed my Spal 16" puller last weekend and say the DiY is great although those straps are horible. I like the steel bars I bought from the Fan Man MUCH better. Those straps are not as nearly as bad as the push through nylon cords or whatever (screw your rad up and are weak) though.

I will find pics of the install I did if my wife didn't delete them all off the camera (ran out of memory while in San Diego).

[wheresmym3]

Here's some pics of the steel bars riveted in using 1/8" rivets on my Spal 16" Curved Blade Puller fan:

[wheresmym3]

I can remove and install the shroud with the fan installed but still maintain the stock shroud function and rigidity. Center mount FTW.


BTW nevermind the ugly stock rad and expansion tank. Will follow with a full aluminum shortly.

[GG///M3]

What is the depth difference btw the curved, and noncurved 16inch fans?

[wheresmym3]

Mine is 3.39" thick (curved & skewed). The slim or straight is 2.05" - 2.48" depending upon model. MUCH less cfm's though and louder. There is also a regular curved 16" Spal fan that is 3.74" thick.

[wheresmym3]

Here...good link for info and parts:

http://www.the-fan-man.com/shop/spal...page=3&sort=2a

[GG///M3]

I need the room for the blower parts. Btw anyone ever mount these on a m coupe s54 rad?

[E36M3E]

very nice, wheresmym3. the straps I bought were all they offered when I did this over a year ago. the bars you got are obviously cooler and cleaner. but really, who sees any of that anyway?

btw, the straight blade fan moves more air than the curvy blade IIRC...but you're right, the straight blade is noisier.

E

[hc1001]

great writeup. i just finish installing the spal fan.

i have a few questions. i have the fan delete kit with the lower temp switch. should i put back my stock temp switch?

is there another wire i can tap for the orange wire? i dont wanna tear apart my diagnostic port.

thanks a lot.