Just ordered my motor from autozone online. We'll see what it looks like when it arrives. My peake tool is throwing a 7d code which translates to auxillary cooling fan final stage. All fuses check out OK. replaced temp sensor in lower radiator hose already so ... will R&R the motor.
Also ordered #67328371873 per realoem.com for my wagon which is the AC and Heat - Condensor fan - resistor. Realoem.com lists it as a "repair kit resistor".
Thanks for the tip.
i can't seem to find just the aux fan motor anywhere. any tips? direct links??
I'm rarely on bf.com nowadays, but seeing this old thread reactivated I'd like to add: please read the posts carefully and I'm sure you guys can figure it all out by yourself
As far as the resistors, both are exactly the same. which one hooks up where is clearly stated in my original post (see quote above). brown wire is ground to the motor. blue is direct 12v to the motor. red goes from the harness through the single resistor and connects to the blue (that's what the stripped part of the blue wire is for) wire. black also goes from the harness through other resistor, then connects to the red wire (before the first resistor on the red wire!!!). in other words...
Brw..Blu...Red...Blk ................R-resistor..............edit: dots (....) mean nothing, w/o them the pic would get messed up
|.....|......|......|
|.....|......|......R
|.....|......|......|
|.....|......|..... /
|.....|......R..../
|.....|......|../
|.....|......|/
|.....|....../
|.....|..../
|.....|../
|.....|/
|.....|
\.../
fan
of course the resistors are wired all close to the fan so they can be exposed to the air flow. after all, being the resistors, they can get really hot!
Last edited by PENER; 09-03-2007 at 11:53 AM.
2015 F15 xDrive35i M-Sport, Mineral weiss on mokka Design Pure Excellence
2015 F31 328i M-Sport, Mineral grau on black
REFERENCES (from buying members): ///MM\\\, Dan, nicholsonsl, nicholsonsl, babygirl, e36Silvr328i, hc1001, tommelton, mish, diffsonline, betet, DMasters,icemann633, docjavier, Iron Chef, Dan, M3Jokster, e39dream, ///Manny, killcrap, verdugo135, TheRide, 318qship, hbmike, TimeOut, z0lt3c, MechEngr, Vortec4800, asdfbunk, brandon5069, hoyabob2003 (e39 mdf 6.5 speaker panels)
SOLD! 97 E39 528iA, Alpine white on black, H&R, Hella, Alpine 9855 run active 3-way, 7" Dayton RS woofers, LPG 25NFA tweeters, Alpine typeR 12" 2005ed sub, ED NINe.1 sub amp, ED NINe.4 comp bi-amp, box 2.5cu.ft tuned to 30Hz CLICK HERE
I am confused...
My fan only has 3 wires
1 small balck wire
1 big red wire
1 big blue wire
I connected both big wires to a battery and the fan will not turn on?
BTW: BAD NEWS GUYZ
Autozone doesnt carry that item anymore. I just went to them and they pulled it up on the computer and it show you can buy it anymore.
Last edited by jfboy; 06-28-2008 at 04:02 AM.
Just pulled this assy off during this week. Wow, it's heavy for a fan.
Can we put this in the DIY section? It was extremely handy this weekend.
Thanks Gumbi
Here are some pics from this weekend. I beleive the motor is bad. The contacts had a minor amount of corrosion that was cleared up with a little contact cleaner.
The fan has 14V DC suppied.
Brown looks to be ground, and the other two must be high & low.
The motor only registered in kilo-ohms.
In going to check out the local supply companies to see if the motor is available.
I couldn't find the motor at the local parts houses but found a cross reference to a Four Seasons model. Ordered from below and the Siemens motor showed up with the right pins on it and the hook up for the resistors. A plug and play replacement for much less than the complete assembly shown by most online places!
I'm not allowed to post links yet but search for FS75720 at autopartswarehouse.com It's listed for a '97 740 but is the same as mine '97 528
where is the radiator temp switch located? I would like to test the motor to see if its not the cause for it not operating
My A/C wasnt blowing correctly on my recent 2003 525i. I checked the aux fan and it was at a stand still. I turned the blades slightly and it started after a few seconds and the a/c started again- but not great. What is the issue:fan motor, resistor, or something else?
Thanks John
whats the difficulty on this? I'm a beginner and I think this will need done soon to my car, BUT if its difficult then I may just go to a shop. Any ideas on how much this would cost at a shop?
I had this same issue about a month ago... I took my bimmer to the autobahn shop in Laurel... The mechanic told me that it was the aux fan and it would cost 680.00 not me I went down to brandywine a local junkyard (lifetime warranty on all parts) and picked up a fan for 250.00 and installed myself. GUESS WHAT!!!!!! the new/used aux fan is still LOUD .... Then the little light bulb came on. Let me check the coolant temp. sensor 23.00 at bavauto.com (sits on the lower radiator hose) and VIOLA!!!!! Even though I really didnt need to change the aux fan (which couldve save me 250.00 beer money) I still feel as tho I made out vs the 680.) Lesson learned, start from sensor then work your way to the actual part you will save more money using that strategy.
It took me a couple of hours because it was my first time... but all you have to do is get the dang bumper off and drop the aux fan and you should be good to go......but before you do that (as I have mentioned before) check your coolant temp. sensor
Last edited by Smookey525i; 06-16-2010 at 11:14 AM. Reason: Automerged Doublepost
Damn what made him think it was the fan? A basic electrical test would have let him know weather it was working or not
Welllllll the problem was in my case that the b*tch would not shut off and made a god forsaken LOUD noise constantly from the moment the car got a little warm till I shut it down (in this case it sounded like I was shutting an aircraft down). So he figure it was the modulator which controls the speed and if it should be on and off..... If I'm correct the modulator that sits in the back of the fan recieves information from the coolant temp sensor...Sooooooooo if the sensor is jacked up then guess what.... The frickin aux fan will keep on going thinking that it needs to be on *based off the info from the coolant temp sensor.
gotcha
seems as though this fan motor is no longer in production, the part that has replaced it (manf. by four seasons) is $180. I may just go ahead and get whole shroud assembly from dealer, ugh.
M50 3.1L Stroker - TC Kline D/A
Parts bin has it for 184.74 and a 1 year warranty.http://www.thepartsbin.com/catalog/?...367+4294952362
Just got the depo fan in from ebay, its not OEM quality but will work fine.
M50 3.1L Stroker - TC Kline D/A
Can anyone here help me out. I hav a 01 540i, aux fan less than a year old... My fan seems to operate only on hi mode, as a result my temp goes up constantly to near danger levels... Any one that give a little insight greatly apreciated
Here in Vegas I've had plenty of occasions to heard the aux fan on high. I thought it was bad because it was so loud but now that I see what it looks like, it's no wonder it's loud.
Just an FYI for those of you in need of a new fan. Mine exploded and forced me to buy an entire assembly. I called a friend at LKQ which is a nationwide salvage yard. He sold me an entire aftermarket assembly for 150 bucks. Bolted right in and plugged in!!!!!! All new and works perfectly.
On a side note those of you removing the bumper for the first time. I would highly recommend just leaving the bumper cover attached to the bumper and simply removing the fog light covers, 4 bolts attaching the air ducts, inner fender bolts, and the bumper shock mounting bolts (6 big ones, 4 small ones). It all comes off together and you don't have to worry about breaking all the bumper cover clips. Just my opinion.
Bookmarks