I'm pretty sure its the lifting blocks but that nathandavies.net site doesnt seem to work anymore. Anyobody have a DIY link?
What it used to look like
If the whole thing wont move have you checked fuse's first ?
2011 Toyota Highlander (wife)
2002 X5 4.6is - 225,000 (Dead)
2001 Toyota 4runner
1995 S/C M3 - 99,000 miles
1995 525i - 244,000 miles (sold)
1999 528iT Touring - 175,000 (sold)
1992 318is - 325,000 miles (Sold)
1986 325e - 180,000 (sold)
Oh...everything works except for the tilt.
What it used to look like
Okay, I printed out a copy of the DIY change for the lifting blocks, but I didn't save it in electronic form. The Bentley manual has the procedure, so I'll run down the meat and potatoes of it.
Part numbers:
54-12-8-119-747
54-12-8-119-748
Tools:
Torx size T-20
17mm socket
If you want me to make a copy of it and mail it to you let me know. JetBlack325i@hotmail.com
If a lot of people need these instructions, I'll take 20 minutes and type them out.
Nick
Current: '07 VW Fahrenheit GTI; 2010 BMW s1000rr
Past: 2003 M3, 6M, Steel Grey, Koni Yellows
2012 Triumph Thruxton
1995 M3, Cosmos on Black Vaders
1993 325i Sport and Cold weather (limited slip!) packs, 5M
Yeah mine doesnt tilt up anymore either.
yeah i would like the write up too. my tilt is messed up cause i snapped the lifting blocks after "overtilting" it. i pressed the button to tilt and held it too long after it should have stopped.
(e36Eric, i sent you reply pm's.)
M3 cams *UUC stage II lwfw w////M5 clutch *JC cam & lwfw chip *ECIS intake *Bosal cat back *UUC udp's *M3 3.15lsd *M3 shifter *H&R & Bilstein sport *E46 M3 rsm *Z3 rein4c plates *Depo DDE's *Zender lp *M3 spoiler *M3 moldings * M3 mirrors *billetwerks *jbl/mtx sub system
'04 G35 sedan 5AT all stock
Okay, I will write up the whole procedure and post is this week.
Current: '07 VW Fahrenheit GTI; 2010 BMW s1000rr
Past: 2003 M3, 6M, Steel Grey, Koni Yellows
2012 Triumph Thruxton
1995 M3, Cosmos on Black Vaders
1993 325i Sport and Cold weather (limited slip!) packs, 5M
Thanks.Originally posted by E36 Fanatic
Okay, I will write up the whole procedure and post is this week.
jesd325is- Hey man, maybe we can get together and fix the tilt when u get back to van nuys. I did the same exact thing awhile back. It snapped and it hasnt been working ever since.
What it used to look like
yeah i'll help you fix your tilt. i wont be taking the ride this time, but im sure i can fix it once we figure out how to do yours. i know my mechanic had like 2 325's in his shop where they did the same thing, but wanted to charge me too much i think for something i can probably do myself. i'll call u and i just returned your pm.
M3 cams *UUC stage II lwfw w////M5 clutch *JC cam & lwfw chip *ECIS intake *Bosal cat back *UUC udp's *M3 3.15lsd *M3 shifter *H&R & Bilstein sport *E46 M3 rsm *Z3 rein4c plates *Depo DDE's *Zender lp *M3 spoiler *M3 moldings * M3 mirrors *billetwerks *jbl/mtx sub system
'04 G35 sedan 5AT all stock
Man...mine is broken too. That info would definitely help me.
I like turtles.
mine has been broken for about 2 years now, that write up would be great!!
geez...i thought i was the only one with this problem...looking forward to the post. Noooo presshuh!
1998 528i
Aspen Silver w/Gray interior
Completely stock (at least for now)
---------------------------------------------
1992 325i (For Sale)
150K miles
Bilstein HDs, Dinan chip, K&N
Can you also post the electricals about it? Mine just doesn't work. Checked the fuse and it "seems" good but i can't quite tell. Can you point out what else to look for (hidden fuses/relays)? I just want mine to work!
Dan, you might need to get a new sunroof switch or motor... the write up has info about taking that out too......
It's on it's way guys. Just give me until tonight
Current: '07 VW Fahrenheit GTI; 2010 BMW s1000rr
Past: 2003 M3, 6M, Steel Grey, Koni Yellows
2012 Triumph Thruxton
1995 M3, Cosmos on Black Vaders
1993 325i Sport and Cold weather (limited slip!) packs, 5M
The switch is lit ALL THE GOD DAMN TIME!!! Same as my window switches unless i push that darn button on the area. I just don't want to get a motor and have it blow out again because it's always on. That's upsetting. Thanks for the writeup!
Okay, here it is…
I got this online, so I cannot accept ownership. If anyone knows who wrote the original write-up, please let me know so that I can give them credit.
Thanks
Nick
“This job should require only a minor degree of mechanical ability. I recommend the following check first to see if the rattle problem really is the lifting blocks.
As the Bentley Manual describes, momentarily press the open sunroof switch so that the back edge of the panel (viewed from the outside) is just a few mm below the roof surface. This will allow you to slide the interior panel back into the cavity behind the sunroof. Don’t try to open the sunroof with the interior panel in this position or you may damage it. Now close the sunroof fully. From the inside push on the panel. If the panel is very loose, you can move it about 3 mm or more, you have the same problem I did. When you’re finished, just slide the interior panel closed.
Parts to order:
54-12-8-119-747
54-12-8-119-748
Vines automotive had them for $16 a piece, but shop around for the best price.
One tool that you might not have but is essential is a torx driver. Size t-20
As I said in my post, I actually removed the entire sunroof cassette to replace the lifting blocks, not a simple task. After seeing the whole operation, I am convinced that this was not necessary.
Slide back the inner panel and fully close the sunroof as described above. Remove 3 nuts (17mm?) at the rear of the panel along the support beam. In the gap on the left and right sides towards the front of the panel, remove the torx screws. You should now be able to carefully remove the outer panel. If this can’t be done, then you’ll have to remove the entire sunroof cassette. Put everything back and consult the Bentley manual.
At this point you should carefully note the present position of the lifting blocks in the sunroof tracks. After you replace them, you will have to slide them back to the same position. You should recognize them in the sunroof tracks near the support beam from the new parts you have.
Next, gently remove the cover for the sunroof motor (where the switch is for the sunroof.) Pry from the rear edge. Try not to break the tangs on the left and right sides. It should still work if you break them though.
Using the same torx tool as before remove the 3 screws holding the motor in place and remove the motor. Unclip the electrical connector from the switch. The motor, cover and switch will stay together. Note: the motor is only removed to allow you to freely slide the sunroof mechanism in the tracks in later steps. It is probably possible to perform this with the motor in, but I didn’t want to run the risk of breaking the mechanism.
Next go to the sunroof tracks. Using the torx tool, remove the track covers from both sides (toward the front of the tracks on the outside). This opens an access point in the tracks. The support beam (where the 3 nuts were) has a small shaft on either side which engages a link from the rear wind deflector. You should notice a plastic slip that can be unclipped and rotated out of the way so that you can carefully pry outward and disengage the links from the shafts.
Now you should be able to slide the support beam along with the box beam rails toward the access point. Go slowly moving both sides together so you don’t bind up the mechanism. Once the front track guides reach the access point, carefully slide them outward to disengage them from the track. BE CAREFUL! They are plastic with tooth pick sized pins. Remove the front track guides from the box beam rails.
Continue to slide the support beam forward. At some point you should be able to slide the box beam rails off the lifting blocks and remove the box beam rails and support assembly together. Now you can individually slide the lifting blocks forward in the guides to the access points and replace them. Note: the lifting blocks go into special gaps in the drive cable. If you lose track of these gaps, (if they get pushed away from the access point) you can move the drive cable but don’t use anything metal that my damage the drive cable. It needs to engage the motor gear.
Put everything back together in reverse order. The only tricky step may be getting the front torx screws which hold the outer panel back in because the gap is so narrow. The best method is to install them before the 3 nuts on the support beam. You should be able to just barely get them threaded into the little linkages with the panel lifted and then seat the panel.”
Good luck, I hope this helps out.
Last edited by E36 Fanatic; 12-14-2002 at 10:12 AM.
Current: '07 VW Fahrenheit GTI; 2010 BMW s1000rr
Past: 2003 M3, 6M, Steel Grey, Koni Yellows
2012 Triumph Thruxton
1995 M3, Cosmos on Black Vaders
1993 325i Sport and Cold weather (limited slip!) packs, 5M
Thanks for typing all that out.
What it used to look like
Ok, does anybody have the # for Vines automotive?
What it used to look like
1-800-214-4839
www.vinesbmw.com
Current: '07 VW Fahrenheit GTI; 2010 BMW s1000rr
Past: 2003 M3, 6M, Steel Grey, Koni Yellows
2012 Triumph Thruxton
1995 M3, Cosmos on Black Vaders
1993 325i Sport and Cold weather (limited slip!) packs, 5M
thanks for the write up E36 fanatic, hopefully it will be as easy as it sounds.
i remmber the site wiht this info actualy had pics too, i knew i should have saved them to disc when i had found the link, but didnt think it was gonna go down a few weeks later
eric, you prepared to attempt this
M3 cams *UUC stage II lwfw w////M5 clutch *JC cam & lwfw chip *ECIS intake *Bosal cat back *UUC udp's *M3 3.15lsd *M3 shifter *H&R & Bilstein sport *E46 M3 rsm *Z3 rein4c plates *Depo DDE's *Zender lp *M3 spoiler *M3 moldings * M3 mirrors *billetwerks *jbl/mtx sub system
'04 G35 sedan 5AT all stock
Thank you E36 Fanatic for the write-up, really appreciate it.
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