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Thread: S52 OBD1 Conversion Complete...here's what I learned.

  1. #101
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    He said a black/violet wire too, I see that,(semi fat and vanishs into a sealed black tube with many other wires fresh off the ecu connector) but which green wire, how do I count the pins, I would love to but is it arabic do I start from bottom right or do I go the engish route and start from top left?
    -Alex

    That's not an oil leak; that is just sweat from all that horsepower.

  2. #102
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    ditto
    ""If you fail, start over with too shots of whiskey. If you get to the bottom of the bottle, you need a new hobby""

  3. #103
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    btw thanks on all the info, much needed! (thanks for the pms!)
    ""If you fail, start over with too shots of whiskey. If you get to the bottom of the bottle, you need a new hobby""

  4. #104
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    Hi guys. I'm in the middle of doing th ebd1 conversion & after I got the harness out I noticed a pretty big difference between the two - the '97 M3 harness has one large rectangular connector on the left (passenger side) & three large round connectors on the right...the obd1 harness that I bought was out of a '94 325 and has 2 rectangular connectors on the left and 2 round connectors on the right. I'm stumped!
    Last edited by Murph; 04-28-2008 at 01:09 PM. Reason: removal of large pics
    Steve Dais

  5. #105
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    One of the round recepticles doesn't get used in an OBD1 format. The connectors should be shape-coded so they only fit in one recepticle by the fuse box.
    Last edited by vinnymac; 04-28-2008 at 10:29 AM.

  6. #106
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    Quote Originally Posted by vinnymac View Post
    One of the round recepticles doesn't get used in an OBD1 format. The connectors should be shape-coded so they only fit in once recepticle by the fuse box.
    Sweet. I was hoping for that answer but figured I never get that lucky! Same apply to the 2nd rectangular connector on the left side of the '94 harness?
    Steve Dais

  7. #107
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    Just to confirm with you guys.. this is regarding knock sensors and cylinder numbering, cylinder #1 is closest to the front while cylinder #6 is at the firewall?

    Front bulkhead
    1|
    2} knock sensor 1
    3|
    4|
    5} knock sensor 2
    6|
    Firewall
    - Peter Shen -

  8. #108
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    Quote Originally Posted by joon View Post
    Just to confirm with you guys.. this is regarding knock sensors and cylinder numbering, cylinder #1 is closest to the front while cylinder #6 is at the firewall?
    Correct.

  9. #109
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    Quote Originally Posted by joon View Post
    Just to confirm with you guys.. this is regarding knock sensors and cylinder numbering, cylinder #1 is closest to the front while cylinder #6 is at the firewall?

    Front bulkhead
    1|
    2} knock sensor 1
    3|
    4|
    5} knock sensor 2
    6|
    Firewall
    As a follow up to this question, there are two separate connectors for the knock sensors, both of which from what I could tell are the same length and both have the same colored wires, but one has a red band around the wires & one has a blue band...assuming the color bands differentiate the two, does anyone remember which is for 1-3 & which is for 4-6?

    Vinnymac - I got the email that the chip is on its way. Thanks much! Now I just need to get everything else done!
    Steve Dais

  10. #110
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    Quote Originally Posted by vinnymac View Post
    Correct.
    Thanks!!! I've been working on transverse 4bangers too much

    This is a great thread.. I'll post up my experiences here when I'm done
    - Peter Shen -

  11. #111
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    Quote Originally Posted by Murph View Post
    As a follow up to this question, there are two separate connectors for the knock sensors, both of which from what I could tell are the same length and both have the same colored wires, but one has a red band around the wires & one has a blue band...assuming the color bands differentiate the two, does anyone remember which is for 1-3 & which is for 4-6?

    Vinnymac - I got the email that the chip is on its way. Thanks much! Now I just need to get everything else done!
    Wish I could help but I seriously can't remember.. I'll try to go back and check.. the ETM doesn't differentiate the colours for 1-3 vs 4-6.. what I did was to use a multimeter to check for continuity between the big X6000 DME connector and the 2 knock sensor plugs.. 1-3 should have continuity with pin 70 while 4-6 should have continuity with pin 69.. pin 71 is the shared ground for both connectors.. if you have the harness out it's fairly easy to check
    - Peter Shen -

  12. #112
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    Joon,

    OBDI only needs once connection to the chassis harness. That is the front most circular connector to the passenger side of the fuse box. X20 I believe it is called (going from memory, so don't quote me). The other rectangular connector you are describing is for an automatic transmission control box. You have an auto harness. It is not a big deal, just do not connect it to anything (obviously) and let it sit on top of the ECU in the compartment.

    "We are the music makers...and we are the dreamers of dreams."

  13. #113
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    Also the easiest was to check sensor connectors (especially knock) is to find a pin-out for the ECU (Bentley is actually alright for this) and check continuity between the rectangular plug for the ECU and the connectors on the harness. It takes a while and a little trial and error, but it is a sure fire way to get it right rather than trusting wire colors.

    "We are the music makers...and we are the dreamers of dreams."

  14. #114
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    Quote Originally Posted by joon View Post
    Wish I could help but I seriously can't remember.. I'll try to go back and check.. the ETM doesn't differentiate the colours for 1-3 vs 4-6.. what I did was to use a multimeter to check for continuity between the big X6000 DME connector and the 2 knock sensor plugs.. 1-3 should have continuity with pin 70 while 4-6 should have continuity with pin 69.. pin 71 is the shared ground for both connectors.. if you have the harness out it's fairly easy to check

    Well why the hell didn't I think of that?? Thanks much!
    Steve Dais

  15. #115
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    Quote Originally Posted by ///M3///M5 View Post
    Joon,

    OBDI only needs once connection to the chassis harness. That is the front most circular connector to the passenger side of the fuse box. X20 I believe it is called (going from memory, so don't quote me). The other rectangular connector you are describing is for an automatic transmission control box. You have an auto harness. It is not a big deal, just do not connect it to anything (obviously) and let it sit on top of the ECU in the compartment.
    I think you're replying to Steve anyway this is good info... wish you had posted this a few weeks back.. took me a while to figure that one out.. that auto connector is the X69, 25-pin same as the X20, I have a euro 1991 320i auto chassis and I took an hour or so doing the pinouts before realising they were all auto-trans related..
    - Peter Shen -

  16. #116
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    I posted this in the track forum but maybe some of the experts here can chime in.. I know some of you run your track cars without the EV connected

    I have a question regarding this EV... now we all know what it does, but here's the thing, I'm swapping an OBD-I S52 into my 1991 Euro E36 chassis (M50 non-Vanos 403)... now the original car didn't come with the valve.. instead of the valve (part #1) I have part #8 13 90 1 734 469 which is a 1000 Ohm Bosch resistor (see diagram below)

    Are any of you guys running this resistor in place of the valve? Or do I need to buy the valve to prevent the 413 DME from throwing codes? Thanks for any input!

    - Peter Shen -

  17. #117
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    Youll throw a code without something there. I just have that code constantly thrown.


    Also for everyone else. Some things i learned when doing my 2nd/3rd OBD1 conversion last week:

    You dont need to use the OBD1 coolant pipe for any reason. Or the vanos extension wire, or the OBD1 fuel rail/regulator. The only things you really need to do this are:


    OBD1 harness
    ECU w/ appropriate chip
    Cam, Crank, 02, Knock sensors
    OBD1 temp sensors if you dont wanna cut into the harness

    That is all i have used and seen used in the 3 conversions ive been a part of.


    BTW thomas, max's car fired right up tonight (after replacing the fuel pump for the 4th time....) It sounds amazing open header. Off to the exhaust shop soon and then youll see us down in ATL....
    460whp/515wtq wifes MMW tuned 335i

  18. #118
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    Quote Originally Posted by 328iJunkie View Post
    Youll throw a code without something there. I just have that code constantly thrown...
    Yeah you'll definitely get the code if you don't plug something in.. just wondering if you guys tried that 1000 Ohm Bosch resistor that plugs into the EV connector instead of the EV valve

    I also re-used the OBDII steel coolant pipe that came with the S52.. seemed a lot stronger, just a matter of re-routing the coolant lines.. also using the OBDII fuel rail with an external adjustable FPR
    - Peter Shen -

  19. #119
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    Hell, sorry for clogging up this tread but it seems to be the place to get answers! Could someone confirm the following:

    1) The red-white & green-blue wire plug on the OBD1 harness is what plugs to the vanos solenoid (using the extension wire)? In the wiring diagram it calls this connector the "camshaft actuator".

    2) For the two plugs that go to the coolant sensor - the brown-red & brown wire plug is identified in the wiring diagram. However it does not identify the second connector, which I think is for the instrument cluster. I have a yellow-brown & brown wire connector that isn't identified in the wiring diagram, I assume this is the 2nd connector to plug into the coolant sensor?

    I haven't gotten to the injector wiring yet, so chances are I may have some questions on that coming up also.

    Thanks much!
    Steve Dais

  20. #120
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    Quote Originally Posted by Murph View Post
    2) For the two plugs that go to the coolant sensor - the brown-red & brown wire plug is identified in the wiring diagram. However it does not identify the second connector, which I think is for the instrument cluster. I have a yellow-brown & brown wire connector that isn't identified in the wiring diagram, I assume this is the 2nd connector to plug into the coolant sensor?
    Again, the multimeter is your friend.. the coolant sensor signal to the instrument cluster goes through the big round X20 connector.. check for continuity between pins 11 and 12 on the X20 with the coolant plug

    like ///M3///M5 said.. wire colours are just a guide.. you really need to get down to probing the pins and double checking all the connections one by one.. this will rule out any wiring mishaps from the harness perspective
    - Peter Shen -

  21. #121
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    Quote Originally Posted by joon View Post
    Again, the multimeter is your friend.. the coolant sensor signal to the instrument cluster goes through the big round X20 connector.. check for continuity between pins 11 and 12 on the X20 with the coolant plug

    like ///M3///M5 said.. wire colours are just a guide.. you really need to get down to probing the pins and double checking all the connections one by one.. this will rule out any wiring mishaps from the harness perspective


    Also, the wiring diagram will call the VANOS solenoid 'camshaft actuator'.

    "We are the music makers...and we are the dreamers of dreams."

  22. #122
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    Quote Originally Posted by 328iJunkie View Post
    Youll throw a code without something there. I just have that code constantly thrown.


    Also for everyone else. Some things i learned when doing my 2nd/3rd OBD1 conversion last week:

    You dont need to use the OBD1 coolant pipe for any reason. Or the vanos extension wire, or the OBD1 fuel rail/regulator. The only things you really need to do this are:


    OBD1 harness
    ECU w/ appropriate chip
    Cam, Crank, 02, Knock sensors
    OBD1 temp sensors if you dont wanna cut into the harness

    That is all i have used and seen used in the 3 conversions ive been a part of.


    BTW thomas, max's car fired right up tonight (after replacing the fuel pump for the 4th time....) It sounds amazing open header. Off to the exhaust shop soon and then youll see us down in ATL....
    Sorry for bringing this thread up but how would you do this without obd1 fuel rail and vanos extension?

    Also can obd1 318 cam crank and knock sensors be used?
    Dignity, Charm, and Contentment... The joys of happy pipe smoking
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    1988 Integra- dead

  23. #123
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    Check the Part#s but im pretty sure you need the 6cyl sensors

    And the vanos wire reached just fine for me without the extension and the fuel rail isnt necessary either, Both the OBD1/2 bolt up to either manifold pretty easily and they both have no issues with the wiring harness portion of the fuel rail
    460whp/515wtq wifes MMW tuned 335i

  24. #124
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    so I am converting the obd2 engine to obd1 on an obd1 car so can I use the obd2 fuel rail but what about the fuel pressure regulator?
    Dignity, Charm, and Contentment... The joys of happy pipe smoking
    Car List:
    1995 318is- daily #1
    1995 Impreza- daily #2
    2010 Prius- Wifes daily and road tripper
    1984 Rabbit- autocross weapon
    2008 IS350- sold
    1995 Grand Prix- sold
    1988 Integra- dead

  25. #125
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    Quote Originally Posted by captainkarl View Post
    so I am converting the obd2 engine to obd1 on an obd1 car so can I use the obd2 fuel rail but what about the fuel pressure regulator?

    I didn't touch the fpr on my conversion. I did have to make some slight modifications to the fuel rail mounting brackets to get to line up on the obd1 manifold, but that was it.
    Steve Dais

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