S52 OBD1 Conversion Complete...here's what I learned.

[joon]

Both the rubber and the metal have the same amount of connections. However, to switch to the rubber one, you need the Turner adapter. Stick with the metal, it's easier and cheaper.

Hey thanks for the info.. great help! I'll definitely check out the Euro setup on my friend's S50B32 as well just to see how different they are.. I'll try to post some pics later.. this is the definitive OBD-1 conversion thread! Thanks guys!

[vjlax18]

The euro conversion takes a bit of work but it's much much much nicer. You'll need a part from Turner, and a bunch of parts from the dealer.

[joon]

After you put this idea into my head I can't get it out!! Looks like I wasted a day at work researching this

I looked up some old pics we took of his Euro couple months back.. together with the amazing realoem.com (<-makes owning a bimmer worthwhile).. this is what I came up with.. I already have the Turner aluminum fitting+epoxy, but it's still quite a number of odds and ends from the stealer.. I'll take my chances with the heater core bypass heh

well.. see if I got this right:

Engine coolant circuit
08 HOSE CLAMP L28-33 1 07129952113
09 HOSE CLAMP L16-30 1 64218367179 $1.00
10 PIPE 1 11531402571 $74.21 +core
12 HOSE CONNECTION 1 11531318404 $13.62
13 HOSE F RADIATOR AND ENGINE RETURN 1 11531317589 $18.30
14 WATER HOSE 1 11531402570 $30.41

Radiator circuit
06 RADIATOR CAP 2,0BAR 1 17111742231 $16.07 +core
14 EXPANSION TANK 1 17111712641 $64.45 +core
16 SCREW CAP WITHOUT LEVELLING SWITCH 1 17111719430 $3.63
17 VENT HOSE 8X13MM 1 17121712736 $13.95
18 HOSE CLAMP L12-15 4 07129952104 $0.56
19 HOSE 1 17122227292 $1.50
20 VENT PIPE L=1320MM 1 17112227483 $11.61
22 CABLE CLIP 2 05/1993 17112227543 $4.80
23 BRACKET 11,5/8,0MM 1 61131369832 $0.28
24 HOSE CLAMP 2 17112227223 $1.40
25 BRACKET EXPANSION TANK 1 17111719190 $0.59

The Euro doesn't have any TB coolant connections.. you're right it's soooo much cleaner..


I have no OBC so I'll use #16 instead of #15.. I have no idea how the tank is mounted for a RHD E36, guess I'll need to take a closer look at his car to figure that out.. I think #21 is the LHD version of the hardline since it doesn't show up on the catalog when I use a RHD vehicle

[vjlax18]

I just finished the conversion. You need the 2 brackets, coolant tank, level sensor, metal pipe, 2 rubber hoses, 1 rubber coupler, hose clamps, and 10 feet or so of hose from any auto parts store. It was actually quite easy for me and was well worth it to me. Others may have trouble swapping over... but self-bleeding is worth all of the work

[joon]

I just finished the conversion. You need the 2 brackets, coolant tank, level sensor, metal pipe, 2 rubber hoses, 1 rubber coupler, hose clamps, and 10 feet or so of hose from any auto parts store. It was actually quite easy for me and was well worth it to me. Others may have trouble swapping over... but self-bleeding is worth all of the work

Great!! thanks man for the tip.. I didn't know the Euro-M cooling systems were different i.e. self-bleeding..

I think the RHD is abit more involved than LHD but should be fun.. one more thing to mod haha LOL

[///M3Augy]

Very nice writeup.

[badmonkey]

I just finished the conversion. You need the 2 brackets, coolant tank, level sensor, metal pipe, 2 rubber hoses, 1 rubber coupler, hose clamps, and 10 feet or so of hose from any auto parts store. It was actually quite easy for me and was well worth it to me. Others may have trouble swapping over... but self-bleeding is worth all of the work

Did this a while back myself, ++1 for the self bleeding.

vjlax18, did you use the euro WATER HOSE 1 11531402570 (expansion tank to
coolant tube)? I canablized the old coolant lines for a connector, but not 100%
happy with it. Thinking the euro hose may be worth the $30 or so...

[TheM3nsah]

253na!! sick!!!

[vinnymac]

253na!! sick!!!

Actually, 275RWHP now...and still NA.

[TheM3nsah]

Actually, 275RWHP now...and still NA.

[vjlax18]

Did this a while back myself, ++1 for the self bleeding.

vjlax18, did you use the euro WATER HOSE 1 11531402570 (expansion tank to
coolant tube)? I canablized the old coolant lines for a connector, but not 100%
happy with it. Thinking the euro hose may be worth the $30 or so...

I used the pipe 11531318403 and hoses 11531317589 and 11531317590. Ihad to bend the pipe a tiny bit to get it to fit aroun everything, but it was well worth it.

[joon]

this is what jmitro did on this S52.. it looks more cost effective than buying all those OEM parts I mentioned earlier

http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum...6&postcount=10

I was thinking of running the T-fitting next to the head port so I can keep the hose parallel and flush with the engine block

[vjlax18]

That's fine if you don't want to run a heatercore. The OEM euro pipe might work even better than that setup though. The pipe has a 45 degree branch that goes to the firewall and might work better that an all rubber setup. There are no branches on it for the TB either. I have to see if I took pics of mine or if I can find an actual pic.

[badmonkey]

I used the pipe 11531318403 and hoses 11531317589 and 11531317590. Ihad to bend the pipe a tiny bit to get it to fit aroun everything, but it was well worth it.

Hmm, I may try 11531317590. Fabbed my own coolant pipe, didn't want the
branch on the OEM pipe or deal with plugging it.

Thanks

[vjlax18]

The OEM metal is nice because it wraps around the head over to the tank. Did you yank your heatercore?

This is a better diagram:
http://bmwfans.info/original/E36/Cou...1/ill-11_1322/

[Patrón]

awesome writeup.

[badmonkey]

The OEM metal is nice because it wraps around the head over to the tank. Did you yank your heatercore?

This is a better diagram:
http://bmwfans.info/original/E36/Cou...1/ill-11_1322/

Yeah, heater core deleted. Coolant tube I fabbed wraps around back of the
head just like the OEM part, continuous aluminum tube from coolant pump to
reservoir. Only took a couple of tries to get it right, bead the tube ends, done.

-John

[vjlax18]

Awesome. Got any pics? I'm going to be doing this to my 325 this winter and will be deleting the HC while I'm at it.

[badmonkey]

Didn't take any when doing the work, I'll take some next time intake manifold is off.

[boosted56]

what is 3. OBD1 chip, and 10. OBD1 HFM

[boosted56]

and if i do the swap on a 325 are the stock injectors the same size of the m3s, or do i need to get the stock e36 m3 injectors? And are the both the same impedance?

[bmxcm]

what is 3. OBD1 chip, and 10. OBD1 HFM

3. you need a new chip burned for the different motor and any mods u have on it.
10. you don't have to worry about this, use the one of ur 325

and if i do the swap on a 325 are the stock injectors the same size of the m3s, or do i need to get the stock e36 m3 injectors? And are the both the same impedance?

u need diff. injectors, 3.2L injectors are bigger

[jcrist]

Just finished up OBDI conversion and can't start the car. Plugs are wet, it sounds like it tries to catch 1 out of 8 cranks. No SES light at any time, not even at ignition on, prior to start.

[///M3///M5]

You need to cut the EWS wire. Pin 66 I believe (green wire).

[vinnymac]

You need to cut the EWS wire. Pin 66 I believe (green wire).

Yup...that could be the problem.

14. EWS – there is a lot of variability in which E36s have it and which ones do not. I used an ECU from a non-EWS vehicle but I still had some ignition issues after the conversion. There is an easy modification to the main engine harness to avoid any issues with EWS. You have to take the protective rubber boot off the connector to the ECU and cut wire #66. It should be solid green but it can also be black/violet according to the Bentley wiring diagrams. Just cut the wire and dress both ends with some electrical tape.