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Thread: Want your car to run good? -Go home tonight and clean this (ICV 540i v8)

  1. #76
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    Hola crap this may be the issue with my car being sluggish! Good write up will def do this once it get a bit warmer, well, I have to turn on the heater on my garage lol

  2. #77
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    Quote Originally Posted by oekundar View Post
    And here I thought the 530i was an I6 as well...
    The 530i has an I6. His reply was just a little hard to read correctly. Its a piece of cake to do on the v8, its a little more involved on the 6 cyl car.

  3. #78
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    Thanks for reviving this post - I'm gonna do it when my car gets back from the shop!

  4. #79
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    sorry, i guess i should have specified that i looked on my E34 530i...

  5. #80
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    Quote Originally Posted by 1999E46 View Post
    Why do these get so dirty? Is it normal?
    It's the same stuff that get's on your throttle body... just think of what happens in there after you shut down your engine. Some of your intake valves are still open and allow any left over combustion gas, etc. to escape back into the intake manifold. Not to mention the minute amounts of fuel still left on the injectors and intake valves after shutdown.

  6. #81
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    Well, I did it and now my car is running smooooooth and purrring like a kitty! Nice write up and very easy to accomplish... Thanks

  7. #82
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    Quote Originally Posted by PENER View Post
    on 528i the ICV is under the intake manifold, in the area shown in the pic below. the easiest way to access it would be by removing drivers side HVAC "elbow" going from the microfilter, then using 10mm socket take off 3 bolts (1 for the oil tube guide and 2 for the ICV) and detach the electrical cable. that way you can remove the ICV with the rubber hose still attached to it. the hardest part, stupidly, would be trying to detach the other end of that hose (that is between the MAF and TB). I tried that approach, so I know it works.
    Having not looked at my car yet, I'm not sure if I want to try this just yet considering what's involved. Is there a "cheater" way to spray TB Cleaner in there without removing the whole unit? i.e. Disconnect one of the pipes so you can squirt some TB Cleaner in there?
    "Sometimes, it's all about the journey..." Current Bimmer: 2000 323ci Convertible

    Past Bimmers: 2006 Z4 3.0si, 1997 528i, 1995 M3, 1989 325ic, 1973 2002 tii, 1987 528e, 1982 528e

  8. #83
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    Quote Originally Posted by VCOUI View Post
    Having not looked at my car yet, I'm not sure if I want to try this just yet considering what's involved. Is there a "cheater" way to spray TB Cleaner in there without removing the whole unit? i.e. Disconnect one of the pipes so you can squirt some TB Cleaner in there?
    Its really best to pull the ICV out of the car and spray it down. You car going to get some oil/dirt/debris that is going to fall out of the ICV when you clean it. If you were to clean it in the car, all of that gunk is going to wind up in your intake manifold.

    After you get in there and attempt to do it, you might find that you were worrying about it a little too much. Its really not that difficult, even on the I6.

  9. #84
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    Quote Originally Posted by John 540i6 View Post
    The 530i has an I6. His reply was just a little hard to read correctly. Its a piece of cake to do on the v8, its a little more involved on the 6 cyl car.
    E34 530s were small V8s...JFYI
    Jordan Green

  10. #85
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    Quote Originally Posted by VCOUI View Post
    Having not looked at my car yet, I'm not sure if I want to try this just yet considering what's involved. Is there a "cheater" way to spray TB Cleaner in there without removing the whole unit? i.e. Disconnect one of the pipes so you can squirt some TB Cleaner in there?
    Follow up... did it... may.. or may not have made a diff but it took about 40 mins.

    ICV is hard to get to on the 5285i ... gotta remove the TB and the ASC valve... oh.. and air box, MAF etc...

    not sure if it did any good but I could see if you had a potentially dirty car.. It'd make a diff.
    "Sometimes, it's all about the journey..." Current Bimmer: 2000 323ci Convertible

    Past Bimmers: 2006 Z4 3.0si, 1997 528i, 1995 M3, 1989 325ic, 1973 2002 tii, 1987 528e, 1982 528e

  11. #86
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    Quote Originally Posted by atl93fd View Post
    No more oil messes or power steering fluid anywhere (including motor mounts).
    Whats the deal with this power steering shit? I notice mine is all &!@(* messy... Are they known to slowly leak? Should I get a new screw-on top? the top of my PS bottle is always wet.

    • 2000 BMW 540i/6 (Anthrazit Metallic 397)
    • 2001 Buick Park Avenue Ultra (Bronzemist Metallic)
    • 1964 Buick Wildcat (Sunburst Yellow / Arctic White)

    Fan Blades Can Explode.. Read My Thread

  12. #87
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    usually the PS reservoir leaks at the bottom at the hose clamps area, quite common
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  13. #88
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    It's been hinted at once or twice but I'll say it again. DO NOT USE CARB CLEANER!

    Use a throttle body cleaner that is safe for oxygen sensors/electronics. If you don't, you'll dry out your rubber seals and possible make things worse for yourself.

    Over and out.

  14. #89
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    Quote Originally Posted by fragzem View Post
    Whats the deal with this power steering shit? I notice mine is all &!@(* messy... Are they known to slowly leak? Should I get a new screw-on top? the top of my PS bottle is always wet.
    LOL... those things have been a prob for nearly 30 years... that is the ONE thing they have not changed for what ever reason. My buddies brand new 335i that he just took delivery of last week still uses that same cap and yes... they do leak slowly, it's the seal. You can try to replace the cap or just the seal if you can get it but it's just best to always wipe it off whenever you check your oil.

    Quote Originally Posted by BlackSapphire View Post
    It's been hinted at once or twice but I'll say it again. DO NOT USE CARB CLEANER!

    Use a throttle body cleaner that is safe for oxygen sensors/electronics. If you don't, you'll dry out your rubber seals and possible make things worse for yourself.

    Over and out.
    I second that with one correction... DO NOT USE ANYTHING OTHER THAN MAF CLEANER ON THE MAF! DO NOT USE THROTLE BODY CLEANER ON THE MAF - USE ONLY- CRC MAF Cleaner follow the link for detials http://www.crcindustries.com/files/M...heet%20Web.pdf ... and no I do not work for CRC.
    "Sometimes, it's all about the journey..." Current Bimmer: 2000 323ci Convertible

    Past Bimmers: 2006 Z4 3.0si, 1997 528i, 1995 M3, 1989 325ic, 1973 2002 tii, 1987 528e, 1982 528e

  15. #90
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    Quote Originally Posted by VCOUI View Post
    LOL... those things have been a prob for nearly 30 years... that is the ONE thing they have not changed for what ever reason. My buddies brand new 335i that he just took delivery of last week still uses that same cap and yes... they do leak slowly, it's the seal. You can try to replace the cap or just the seal if you can get it but it's just best to always wipe it off whenever you check your oil.



    I second that with one correction... DO NOT USE ANYTHING OTHER THAN MAF CLEANER ON THE MAF! DO NOT USE THROTLE BODY CLEANER ON THE MAF - USE ONLY- CRC MAF Cleaner follow the link for detials http://www.crcindustries.com/files/M...heet%20Web.pdf ... and no I do not work for CRC.

    Whatever happened to the days of using Starter Fluid to clean everything?

    • 2000 BMW 540i/6 (Anthrazit Metallic 397)
    • 2001 Buick Park Avenue Ultra (Bronzemist Metallic)
    • 1964 Buick Wildcat (Sunburst Yellow / Arctic White)

    Fan Blades Can Explode.. Read My Thread

  16. #91
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    Quote Originally Posted by fragzem View Post
    Whatever happened to the days of using Starter Fluid to clean everything?

    Or brake parts cleaner.. (jk) Great info in this thread...Where does one find the CRC cleaner? Autozone? Poopboys?

    Just called CRC and they distribute through NAPAs and Advance Auto.
    Last edited by GTP540; 04-12-2007 at 12:36 PM.

  17. #92
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    Quote Originally Posted by VCOUI View Post
    LOL... those things have been a prob for nearly 30 years... that is the ONE thing they have not changed for what ever reason. My buddies brand new 335i that he just took delivery of last week still uses that same cap and yes... they do leak slowly, it's the seal. You can try to replace the cap or just the seal if you can get it but it's just best to always wipe it off whenever you check your oil.



    I second that with one correction... DO NOT USE ANYTHING OTHER THAN MAF CLEANER ON THE MAF! DO NOT USE THROTLE BODY CLEANER ON THE MAF - USE ONLY- CRC MAF Cleaner follow the link for detials http://www.crcindustries.com/files/M...heet%20Web.pdf ... and no I do not work for CRC.
    You are absolutely right. Great addition, not a correction. I was referring to cleaning the IAC/Throttle body. If cleaning the MAF, use MAF cleaner (electronics safe).

  18. #93
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    Quote Originally Posted by GTP540 View Post
    Or brake parts cleaner.. (jk) Great info in this thread...Where does one find the CRC cleaner? Autozone? Poopboys?

    Just called CRC and they distribute through NAPAs and Advance Auto.
    Up here in Nor Cal I get it at Kragen Auto Parts. Most places that carry the other CRC products like Brakleen and Carbkleen should carry it. I use it regularly now every time I change the oil. Of other note, since we're on the subject; K&N filters have become a bad word with modern 'wire type' MAFs because the oil will coat and contaminate the MAF. If you take two simple steps, you can safely use a K&N in our cars. Step 1) Don't over-oil your filter after cleaning. Step 2) Clean the MAF regularly with the CRC MAF cleaner and you should have no probs. Personally, the single biggest noticeable performance gain I've experienced with my car was swapping out the stock air filter for a K&N in the stock air box. Takes all of 2 mins and if you don't notice a difference, it takes all of two mins to switch it back. I highly recommend it.
    "Sometimes, it's all about the journey..." Current Bimmer: 2000 323ci Convertible

    Past Bimmers: 2006 Z4 3.0si, 1997 528i, 1995 M3, 1989 325ic, 1973 2002 tii, 1987 528e, 1982 528e

  19. #94
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    Nice write up,

    I have a 98 523 that throws out white smoke in the morning for some seconds (smoke only in the mornings) and idles roughly and tend to want to stall at low speed, then the car vibrates when the aircon is turned on and a pain to move (manual drive) especially when you are on slope and moving from rest, it stalls mostly until more power is aplied to make it move.

    I hope this is going to sort it out and i ll give it a trial and hopefully someone will read this and be able to advice accordingly.

    thanks to all..

    bR

  20. #95
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    excellent post, im gonna do mine in morning. nice job. be back with results.

  21. #96
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    does this work on 2002 e39 or is just for 98-99
    ///M
    2002 540iA sport sterling grey, umnitza predator ice, yellow fog

  22. #97
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    this only works for pre vanos models of the e39. So only 97-98 models apply.

  23. #98
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    Nice write-up. Good call on the pictures! Although it won't work on my ride

  24. #99
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    great write-up!

  25. #100
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    I did mine just now... Piece of cake. I used electrical contact cleaner on the whole thing... mine wasn't all that dirty, it looks somewhat new, I'm guessing it was replaced not too long ago, but hey.. preventive maintenance!

    • 2000 BMW 540i/6 (Anthrazit Metallic 397)
    • 2001 Buick Park Avenue Ultra (Bronzemist Metallic)
    • 1964 Buick Wildcat (Sunburst Yellow / Arctic White)

    Fan Blades Can Explode.. Read My Thread

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