There are forum posts here that dwelve into the math behind the scenes and makes alternate suggestions. Hint, you don't talk spring rates, you talk target suspension frequency, then work backwards to your springs.
What I would like to see is rather than making suspension recommendations purely on the volume of the wallet, they should be made on the volume of the knowledge. If you think adjustable shocks are about ride quality, stick with non-adjustables. If you think you can set up adjustable spring perches with a tape measure, don't. There are many stories in these forums where someone with an "awesome" sharp-handling setup got into a situation that required using more than 80% of the potential, and found themselves suddenly snap-spun off into the ditch/weeds/on-coming. One infamous thread over in the E39 forum the guy ended up hanging the car from a guiwire by the right front wheel. "Must of hit some gravel"
Though I have never driven one hard, I would guess the TCK with it's insane 160+ CPM front and Cadillac-grade 80CPM rear should at least be safe-ish.
Koni's are great. H&R springs on Konis SUCK. Well, the rears do. The fronts are okay.
/.randy
Thank you for your input and sending this conversation in a constructive direction. TC Kline has a nice suspension 101 article here: https://www.tcklineracing.com/webdoc...etails1149.cfm
Kline's article is a nice primer on the subject, but doesn't even mention what it takes to just get the ride height and cross weight percentages correct. If you don't have access to a 4 corner set of weight scales on a leveled piece of ground with a controller that calculates cross weight for you, you don't have a prayer of actually adjusting spring perches correctly. Not to mention the driver sitting in the drivers seat with the sway bars disconnected and a consistent way of accurately measuring the chassis ride height. It would take me a couple of hours to get it right most of the time, but the results were worth it.
Marty
Check out my M Roadster projects and DIYs:
Cooling system part 1: https://youtu.be/ERqztIL1DPw
Cooling system part 2: https://youtu.be/-DnclDkn2hI
Power convertible top: https://youtu.be/KLYNqkCBh_M
Head unit removal: https://youtu.be/LKe9fPKrAqE
You may think so, but I guess you've never seen how screwed up the handling can become when someone who doesn't understand it installs adjustable spring perches on a car.
Marty
PS I didn't even mention half of the stuff you would do to a real race car, because it has a lot more variables in play.
I apologize for the noob question but what is adjustable on a single adjustable shock? Compression? I’m considering the Koni yellows to replace my tired stock setup. I would love something that is height adjustable as there seems to be quite a bit of tire/fender gap in the rear. It’s a coupe, if that matters.
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Some info here:
Z3 TCKR Single Adjustable Coilover Kit
https://r.tapatalk.com/shareLink/top...ink_source=app
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Koni single adjustable adjust the slow speed rebound valving only. Since you have to get through the slow speed valve to get into the high speed valve, the adjustment does effect the entire rebound curve. In theory the adjustment should have no effect on the compression side, but more dyno graphs show a slight variation.
Here's a site with dyno graphs of both single and double adjustable.
https://wilhelmraceworks.com/koni-shock-dynos
/.randy
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