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Hello guys, I recently picked up an 1996 auto 328i E36 to add to my collection. Previous owner said it might need a CPS or a DME as per his "Mechanic". Since I have a 97 328 drift car I just grab parts right off of it since it runs and drives no issues. This e36 I just picked up only has 105k miles on the m52b28, I hooked up a scanner to the car before I did anything and got an Ecm memory error code. Went ahead and replaced both the cam position and the crank position sensors with oem sensors off my drift car that were tested and proven working. Cleared code before attempting to start and once again cranks but no start, I have correct fuel pressure to the rail and the fuel pump is indeed kicking on. plugged up my ol reliable peake R5/fcx code reader and still have an active code for ecm memory error code, but also have an EWS-code, Not present or Signal failure. My next step would be to get another auto ecm that already has EWS deleted. However I just want to make sure I'm going in the right direction since I've tested resistance on the new sensors that were put in, tested and verified the coilpack harness/coilpacks are getting 12v power, resistance tested the crank and cam position sensors and both are within spec according the Bentley manual, battery is fully charged, the spark plugs are in really good shape as well. Running out of talent an don't want to throw $130 at this car for an EWS deleted auto ecm that will end up being manual swapped if the ecm isn't what is causing a crank but no start. Again, both crank position and cam position sensors have been changed with known to be good oem sensors, have fuel pressure at the rail and fuel pump is kicking on and pumping proper fuel pressure. What else should I be look at other than relays and fuses as they are all verified to be working correctly, even swapped DME and Fuel pump relays from my drift car just for shits and giggles, still the same results.
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Check that the battery terminal connections are solid, even remove them and use a terminal post cleaner brush.
I would remove the DME and open it up and check for oxide tracks. If your not sure you can post pics of the circuit board (both sides) and we can take a look. Make sure they are in focus. Also since your new to the forum you have to use an outside pic host till you get enough posts (there are many free ones).
There is a good chance your problem is due to an EWS issue, but maybe it has been deleted by cutting a wire and its a code to be ignored, maybe someone else knows.
Know that just because there is 12v at the coils doesn't really mean anything, they are controlled through the negative. In other words it doesn't mean that they are firing (they probably aren't). But you should check to see if the injectors are actually squirting gas, not sure of the easiest way, you could pull the rail, or maybe remove a spark plug and then smell for gas.
Attn. NEWBIES: Use the search feature, 98% has already been discussed.
Click the search button, select "search single content type", select the "e36 sub forum" specifically, try the "search titles" then try the "search entire posts".
Member
Absolutely, I did open the DME up and found oxidized tracks, I attempted to clean with a cotton swab an iso alcohol, threw back together to no avail but since seeing that it really is leading me to believe my issues lies within the ECM/EWS and not a wiring harness or sensor issue. Also did go back, adjusted an made sure battery terminals are indeed tight. And thanks for the info I did not realize they are controlled through the negative. I have a strong odor of fuel when I pulled the spark plugs and were wet with fuel due to so many cranking attempts, I really appreciate the response! I suppose the next step would be to pick up another auto DME that has EWS deleted and go from there.
Last edited by MattDiesE36; 03-17-2020 at 04:31 PM.
Member
Good work. I would go one step further with the DME, open it up again and use denatured alcohol (much stronger) and an old toothbrush and give everything a good scrub. But you have to give it a full 24hrs in a warm dry area to fully dry out.
I would look up the thread for EWS delete, there is a wire that people cut under the relay box, just to check if that is what has been done. Also if you do get another DME it will be necessary to align it to the current system, there is a small program called EWSsync that you will need.
Attn. NEWBIES: Use the search feature, 98% has already been discussed.
Click the search button, select "search single content type", select the "e36 sub forum" specifically, try the "search titles" then try the "search entire posts".
Balogne Cajones
Memory code for the dme means the internal code has been damaged. No cleaning will fix. Its a common error on badly written or defective tune chips.
Member
Gotcha, glad to hear that actually. Backs up my theory that the DME is internally damaged, the oxidized circuit board tells me at somepoint in it's life moisture was able to make it's way into the case and onto the board itself and/or it's just a faulty unit in an of itself. I agree, I don't believe any amount of cleaning would help or fix any damaged connection it may have caused internally. I've gone ahead an ordered another auto DME that already has EWS deleted just to cut out any other potential variables. Again, I really appreciate both of the responses as I was starting to go insane overthinking this issue would be something more in depth than a faulty DME. Once I get the replacement I will post an update if it fixes my crank but no start situation for any others whom may be experiencing the same symptoms.
Last edited by MattDiesE36; 03-18-2020 at 09:04 PM.
Member
UPDATE: Purchased another DME that has EWS deleted, Plugged in an started with no issues at all! Thank you for both of your help, much appreciated!
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