A very good writeup on projector retrofiting. Its not Z3 specific but you would go through the exact same processes with our lights.
Link
-Joe
Great link Joe. There are a lot of good tips like the cardboard template.
Yeah. A couple of those tips are things I never thought of.
-Joe
Complete light bulb application guide.
Bulbs :
http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum...d.php?t=111595
1999 Cosmos Black/Dove Grey BMW ///M3 convertible - 5 speed - SOLD
2005 Atlantic Blue Pearl/Taupe Leather Subaru Legacy 2.5 GT Wagon - 5 speed - SOLD
2014 Tenorite Grey/Black Mercedes-Benz GLK 250 - bone stock.
2013 Bianco/Rosso Abarth 500c - 5 speed
2016 Oxford White/Grey Ford Transit 250 Powerstroke 148 MR (DIY RV conversion)
Suspension write up
http://www.bimmerfest.com/forums/showthread.php?t=16582
1999 Cosmos Black/Dove Grey BMW ///M3 convertible - 5 speed - SOLD
2005 Atlantic Blue Pearl/Taupe Leather Subaru Legacy 2.5 GT Wagon - 5 speed - SOLD
2014 Tenorite Grey/Black Mercedes-Benz GLK 250 - bone stock.
2013 Bianco/Rosso Abarth 500c - 5 speed
2016 Oxford White/Grey Ford Transit 250 Powerstroke 148 MR (DIY RV conversion)
I spend a lot of time trying to figure out why the heck my top was leaking. I have been wanting to post a "how to" on the subject. sorry about the photo. my digi cam doesnt like the close ups for some reason. so here goes:
I have had trouble with water entering the inside of my car once i took it out of my storage unit. I couldnt figure it out. I pinpointed the cause my problem:
when i have my top down on some days and put it back up, i noticed the separation in the weather stripping (the seam where the top meets the upper windshield) and didnt think too much of it, until it rained. I was mad and couldnt figure out how/why it was leaking. well it turned out the seam was the culprit. how did i fix the problem? well, you have all it takes to fix it: your fingers. simply by squishing the weather stripping so each piece is flush with one another fixed my problem.
the problem was that the drainage from the top went right over where this gap in the stripping was, so a bit of the water draining went through the small "hole" in the stripping. it solved my problem. hope it helps yours.
I highly recommend using the waterproofing agent on the top as well. my top was soaking up a lot of the moisture and was amplifying my leak (by having more water draining out right where the gap in the stripping was at). so by waterproofing the top will help keep out a lot of the water as well.
-Jon
BF.c member 39,803
2002 Alpine White w/ Black 368 (<OO \(||][||)/ OO>)
Power: Custom Exhaust w/ High Flow cats, CSL headers, built, low-compression Supercharged and aftercooled S-54, ViPEC standalone ECU, Vortech V2 Si trim
Driveline: Euro 6 speed, 3.64 diff w/ 40% Lockup, Rogue Octane SSK, UUC Red TME kit, UUC Stage 3 LTW Flywheel/M5 Clutch, SS Shift Knob
Suspension & Brakes: TC Kline True Match Coilovers 500f/500r w/ adjustable camber plates, Racing Dynamics sways, Custom front sway endlinks, ATE fluid, UUC/Willwood BBK 6 piston f - 4 piston r , Slotted E46M3 Rotors, Stainless Lines, Strong Strut, IE Subframe & adjustable rear trailing arm bushings
ICE & Misc: Projector Z's w/DDE & 5k HID, 19'' Gold HRE C20's, Custom Aux pwr outlet, footwell lighting, ACS Splitters, Areo Sideskirts, Custom gauge pods, Z8 Start, Pioneer AVIC Z3, Clarus Components, 10" RE Sub in a Mister-X Enclosure, Alpine PDX 4X150 + 1X600 Amps
Coming soon: and a visit to Randy Forbes
Had this problem, it was the mechanism in the front of the hood, its a little plastic clip on piece and it seemed to break just over time from stress, but tightening up the cable with a zip tie to any random place in its path made the lever in the driver side a lot tighter and allowed the hood to pop open again...
http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum...d.php?t=374672
~Ken~ '99 M coupe THE "original" TT Stage 3 - HTA3586R; 701 whp 672 wtq @ 26.5 psi ; NeverSell - CoupeCartel
VPD oil cooler install
http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum...d.php?t=397512
Rear Subframe bushing install.
Originally Posted by dwm
Last edited by clintjg; 05-21-2007 at 11:50 AM.
2002 Alpine White w/ Black 368 (<OO \(||][||)/ OO>)
Power: Custom Exhaust w/ High Flow cats, CSL headers, built, low-compression Supercharged and aftercooled S-54, ViPEC standalone ECU, Vortech V2 Si trim
Driveline: Euro 6 speed, 3.64 diff w/ 40% Lockup, Rogue Octane SSK, UUC Red TME kit, UUC Stage 3 LTW Flywheel/M5 Clutch, SS Shift Knob
Suspension & Brakes: TC Kline True Match Coilovers 500f/500r w/ adjustable camber plates, Racing Dynamics sways, Custom front sway endlinks, ATE fluid, UUC/Willwood BBK 6 piston f - 4 piston r , Slotted E46M3 Rotors, Stainless Lines, Strong Strut, IE Subframe & adjustable rear trailing arm bushings
ICE & Misc: Projector Z's w/DDE & 5k HID, 19'' Gold HRE C20's, Custom Aux pwr outlet, footwell lighting, ACS Splitters, Areo Sideskirts, Custom gauge pods, Z8 Start, Pioneer AVIC Z3, Clarus Components, 10" RE Sub in a Mister-X Enclosure, Alpine PDX 4X150 + 1X600 Amps
Coming soon: and a visit to Randy Forbes
here's a great write-up for fixing that common problem of the rear window seam separating.
http://ackthud.com/shawnfogg/topfix.htm
I didn't need to use the tire tool to fix mine.
If you've thought about lighting your gills, here are detailed directions for how I did mine:
http://www.drburrseyesite.com/lightedgills.html
Several people have mentioned problems with their browser displaying the webpage incorrectly, such as photos covering part of the text. I have created a second page to address that issue. It includes the text only, with no photos.
http://www.drburrseyesite.com/lightedgills2.html
Last edited by cngizbleevng; 11-03-2005 at 11:33 AM.
I have just rebuilt the motor in my 1.9. I got the motor and tranny in went to install the plugs and relized I do not know the what to gap my plugs to and cannot seem to find anything anywhere on it. I am probably looking in all the wrong places.I did buy 1 bar colder plugs for it since I am currently running 6lbs of boost. anyone know?
Here is my writeup on replacing the roadster seat belt guides. Enjoy.
http://bimmerforums.com/forum/showthread.php?t=479280
I wonder if anybody there could help me.My Z3 (1997) heating doesn,t work properly.It does take a long time for heating to come on.My mechanic couldn't find any fault with termostat(not a BMW trained mechanic).Anybody there, any idea????.Please help,It is cold in London.
I thought there was a DIY for the projector retrofit?
here's the closest thing to a DIY. But really it varies a lot depending on the projector you use, etc.Originally Posted by Sound Of Speed
http://www.emotors.ca/Articles/132.aspx
Thanks.Originally Posted by Jshkrauss
I'll be doing this soon
Here is my write-up on cleaning those ugly airbag warning decals off your visors.
http://bimmerforums.com/forum/showthread.php?t=511035
My write-up for removal glare gaurds from non-M fogs
http://bimmerforums.com/forum/showthread.php?t=510012
Circuit for fooling the SRS system for the seat occupancy sensor.
http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum...d.php?t=528860
2001 Saphire Black M Coupe
IE Subframe Bushings, UUC TME Reds, Goodridge SS Brake lines, UUC SS Clutch line, Sport Mode, Strong Strut STB, Toyo T1-R (street) 235/255 Toyo RA-1 (track) 255^2 , Eisenman 76mm Sport Exhaust, TCK D/A 450/500#,TCK CP, 3.46 Diff, Autopower Roll Bar, Recaro PPs, Schroth Profi III 6 pt, UUC Stg II LWF, E34 Clutch, Magnaflow X Pipe, Delrin CABs, IE rear toe/camber adjusters
Hot tip for doing a differential swap from an E30 into a non-M Z3 that I've been meaning to put up for a while....
If you're using your stock Z3 diff cover, be sure to change the impulse wheel on the E30 carrier for the smaller tooth, smaller diameter impulse wheel on your stock Z3 carrier- it is a tight press fit piece.
If you do not swap, and use the stock Z3 diff cover, there will be interference between the larger impulse wheel teeth and the aluminum cover/sensor area. It will chew up the plastic sensor and some aluminum on the cover, bend the teeth, and dislodge the impule wheel. You can check for interference after final assembly by trying to spin a rear tire by hand while the rear is still jacked up. If it hangs up, you have interference. If not, you're good to go.
BMW M3 - Ferrari 348 - Chevrolet Chevelle
Oil pressure gauge install
http://www.mz3.net/articles/231.html
Fix for annoying clutch switch delay on M52TUs
http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum...d.php?t=591931
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