The reset did not work top down either. The lid lowered as it started to do the reset and the lid motor started chattering again. Bizarre!
Any other ideas?
Alright, since summer ended my top has been OOC. I went through this whole thread and tried to reset the top over and over for about 3 hours, to no avail.
It seems when I release the motors, Motor B (the rear one, the motor that controls the storage top) will not engage firmly like A. Motor A snaps right in, hard. I tried to prop B in (with a block of wood) and hold the top switch for the reset, but that doesnt work either. Even if I prop it in and reset, the motor will stay in firm, but my top light will still flash and I have no operation.
Are there any other suggestions or am I left at the mercy of the stealership at this point?
It sounds like the motor isn't snapping into place at all if it needs to be propped. First, check to make sure that the release lever under the rear seat is really all the way back into normal position. The release cables are different lengths and the top lid motor's release cable might not be completely slack even though the top motor's is. When the drive splines from the motor half of the assembly successfully engage the gearset (where the arm that goes to the top lid connects) there is a definite 'detent' which provides tactile feedback indicating a 'lock'.
The release lever (the big curved arm with the cable at one end) should snap onto the motor side (the side you are pulling on- away from the fender, towards the interior of the trunk) to keep it positioned. If the splines don't match up, it won't engage. Try disconnecting the top lid arm from the motor and manually rotating the assembly until the motor snaps into place, then work backward from there once you know what it should feel like. Please post back with results- Pretty sure we can figure this out.
See this thread in the E36 Convertible section of the forum:
http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum...4&postcount=64
That explains what you are hearing.
Lots of good info in that section for convertibles- all vert-specific questions and answers should really be posted there.
Last edited by Jimmie Jazz; 01-01-2009 at 03:30 AM. Reason: Automerged Doublepost
'98 328 Alpinweiss Cabriolet, 150K, CD43, CHA-S634 MP3 Changer, Chromeline Interior Trim, 'Redlined' Gears & Diff, Z3 Chromed 16" Rims, Billet Front Stress Bar, aFe CAI, 'Golf Tee' Exhaust Mod, Powerdiscs, SS Brake Lines, CDV delete, JTD Underpanel, BAV Lowering Springs, Bilstien Sports, Bimmerworld Rear Lower Control Arms and Front Camber Plates, E46 RSM's with reinforcing plates, Electric Rad Fan, Alum. T-Stat Housing, Mishimoto Hi-Capacity Aluminum Radiator, Hi-Performance Water pump, 3.23 LSD, Sharked.
Sometime to come: New Clutch with LWFW, Clutch Stop, M50 Manifold, M3 Cams, Supercharger (I can dream).
Good call buddy. The Bowden cables (sp?) were a little slack for rear motor B. Tightened them up a bit at the motor location and that little sucker locked in.
Next problem, with both motors locked in, I close the trunk lid and press down on the storage lid for good measure. After everything looks ok, I get in the car put the key in, hold the top open switch and turn the key to radio. After about 10 seconds I hear the motors whirling and the storage lid will suction shut. Just when it looks like everything is good, I still have no operation and my red light at the top switch still flashes. What the hell....
*edit: I noticed I could open my trunk with the storage lid up. Checked the microswitch inside the tunnel storage, it clicks, but does not dis-engage the trunk when I press it. Is this a bad microswitch or a blown fuse? And could this be the reason for my headaches?
(I found this thread in the vert help section, just bumped with my problem, apparently it was cross-forum linked)
Last edited by blowne30m3; 01-01-2009 at 02:17 PM.
It does sound like a microswitch problem. The switch itself is located on the passenger side locking clamp for the top lid. It's awkward to get to, but visible. There are some .pdf's from the BMW TIS (Troubleshooting Information System?) in the vert section (or used to be) that are very helpful in documenting the logic sequences and interlocks involved in the operation of the top, the lid, motors and trunk. Since your microswitch makes noise but the trunk still opens when it shouldn't, you should electrically test the top lid/trunk interlock mechanism in the trunk. Again, there used to be a half-dozen or so pdf's in the vert section which explained how to get to those components. They should be in the stickies.
'98 328 Alpinweiss Cabriolet, 150K, CD43, CHA-S634 MP3 Changer, Chromeline Interior Trim, 'Redlined' Gears & Diff, Z3 Chromed 16" Rims, Billet Front Stress Bar, aFe CAI, 'Golf Tee' Exhaust Mod, Powerdiscs, SS Brake Lines, CDV delete, JTD Underpanel, BAV Lowering Springs, Bilstien Sports, Bimmerworld Rear Lower Control Arms and Front Camber Plates, E46 RSM's with reinforcing plates, Electric Rad Fan, Alum. T-Stat Housing, Mishimoto Hi-Capacity Aluminum Radiator, Hi-Performance Water pump, 3.23 LSD, Sharked.
Sometime to come: New Clutch with LWFW, Clutch Stop, M50 Manifold, M3 Cams, Supercharger (I can dream).
Thanks man, I ran into another problem though. It got late yesterday so I wanted to just get the top back up manually for work today. Well as I set everything up and pulled the top back over, I put the allen in to crank it back down (I have the full auto), the damn screw that you turn came out! I have no idea how to lower this thing back down!
Guess I have to take the M into work, mother f'r. Im done screwing with this, it's going to the stealership today.
Here's hoping it isn't a big deal to fix. Let us know what they did and what they charged, please.
'98 328 Alpinweiss Cabriolet, 150K, CD43, CHA-S634 MP3 Changer, Chromeline Interior Trim, 'Redlined' Gears & Diff, Z3 Chromed 16" Rims, Billet Front Stress Bar, aFe CAI, 'Golf Tee' Exhaust Mod, Powerdiscs, SS Brake Lines, CDV delete, JTD Underpanel, BAV Lowering Springs, Bilstien Sports, Bimmerworld Rear Lower Control Arms and Front Camber Plates, E46 RSM's with reinforcing plates, Electric Rad Fan, Alum. T-Stat Housing, Mishimoto Hi-Capacity Aluminum Radiator, Hi-Performance Water pump, 3.23 LSD, Sharked.
Sometime to come: New Clutch with LWFW, Clutch Stop, M50 Manifold, M3 Cams, Supercharger (I can dream).
Looks like their busy today so no dropoff till Monday. That means I have the weekend to tear everything regarding the top apart!
First stop is the top lock motor. Want to see what is going on with this screw and why I cannot manually close the top. Second is the micro switches.
One thing is perplexing me a bit. When I first started this little fix, I re-synched and it did work, once. I was able to automatically close the top. I was stoked! Then I turned the car off, started putting tools away, etc. Went back to test the top down, as soon as I hit the switch it sounded like the top lock motor was going to explode then ..... blinking red light of death. That's when I started over and haven't gotten it to work since.
I'll be posting back tomorrow with pics of progress. I'm really not looking forward to footing a grand to fix a daily driver's convertible top. I would be happy with just getting the thing back up.
I forgot how much I hated the dealership.
Update:
After $260 of diagnostics they determined that nothing mechanical was wrong. So what do they do? It's another $260 to see if anything electrical is wrong.
If there is nothing wrong there they replace the control module. More $$$.
So the total bill is $890 and nothing is determined to be wrong. I love BMW.
Does the top function properly or not? I'm confused as to how they could say that everything is fine if it isn't working properly- what about the front motor manual engagement screw?
'98 328 Alpinweiss Cabriolet, 150K, CD43, CHA-S634 MP3 Changer, Chromeline Interior Trim, 'Redlined' Gears & Diff, Z3 Chromed 16" Rims, Billet Front Stress Bar, aFe CAI, 'Golf Tee' Exhaust Mod, Powerdiscs, SS Brake Lines, CDV delete, JTD Underpanel, BAV Lowering Springs, Bilstien Sports, Bimmerworld Rear Lower Control Arms and Front Camber Plates, E46 RSM's with reinforcing plates, Electric Rad Fan, Alum. T-Stat Housing, Mishimoto Hi-Capacity Aluminum Radiator, Hi-Performance Water pump, 3.23 LSD, Sharked.
Sometime to come: New Clutch with LWFW, Clutch Stop, M50 Manifold, M3 Cams, Supercharger (I can dream).
Yeah, that was what they told me on the phone. Here was the final analysis:
After running both mechanical and electrical diagnostics, it was determined the top lock motor was faulty. Which I had assumed from the start since it would make whirling noises but not actually turn anything. Anyways they are recommending I replace the top lock motor and control module and that should fix it. They were kind enough to close my top again (not really sure how they pulled that off).
Anyways, it's off to the classifieds and junkyards to see if I can find another motor. At least this chapter is over.
So 260. + 260. = 520. First they tested mechanics for 260. and said nothing was wrong mechanically, but now they say the top lock motor is bad? That doesn't even come into play until the top is nearly all the way up. Their diagnoses compared to the symptoms don't seem to match. I think it's a microswitch, not a motor.
Look for the .pdf's in the vert section that detail the various microswitches and go through them. Test the motor directly (apply voltage and ground manually) and see if it is truly bad. I wouldn't take their word for it.
'98 328 Alpinweiss Cabriolet, 150K, CD43, CHA-S634 MP3 Changer, Chromeline Interior Trim, 'Redlined' Gears & Diff, Z3 Chromed 16" Rims, Billet Front Stress Bar, aFe CAI, 'Golf Tee' Exhaust Mod, Powerdiscs, SS Brake Lines, CDV delete, JTD Underpanel, BAV Lowering Springs, Bilstien Sports, Bimmerworld Rear Lower Control Arms and Front Camber Plates, E46 RSM's with reinforcing plates, Electric Rad Fan, Alum. T-Stat Housing, Mishimoto Hi-Capacity Aluminum Radiator, Hi-Performance Water pump, 3.23 LSD, Sharked.
Sometime to come: New Clutch with LWFW, Clutch Stop, M50 Manifold, M3 Cams, Supercharger (I can dream).
Thats what I thought. After the mechanical test I told them I wasn't going to pay another 300 just to see what was wrong and I asked to just close the top.
They did and that was what was on the report sheet. Maybe they ran some tests or dug a little deeper free of charge, not sure. I think I may have to get a second opinion though.
u guys saved my lifeeeeeeeeee lol. thank alot
When attempting to reset Motor B (the rear one, the motor that controls the storage top) it will not move to be engaged. It is touching the inside of the fender. Motor A snaps right in with no problem. Im sure it is disengaged because i can move the release lever back and forth.
The transmition is bent. Does anyone know if I can bend it back or where to find the lowest price trans?
Last edited by BobBimmer; 07-16-2009 at 03:01 PM. Reason: Automerged Doublepost
Oh no... I don't like what I'm reading here. I just took possession of my sons M3 convertible that he cannot get to function and reading over this thread gives me a sick feeling. I really wish there was someone in my local area that could look it over and help me out. I'm clueless on BMW's. I live in the Atlanta area. Any suggestions would be much appreciated as I really don't care to go through what blowne30m3 went through.
Im actually stuck trying to get at the storage cover motor, also i cant seem to drop the roof manualy either.
Basicly i was fitting an Amp in the boot, threading the cables through the back and came across this red inviting lever... i pulled it, knowing now what it does :duh:
Been trying to sort it out today, but i cant get at the storage lid motor. There are two cables that are pretty tight joined to the case i guess around the motor. So guess im missing something else there?
Just for the record, there is a dedicated convertible section with lots of great info.
1998 BMW M3 3.2 Cabrio Alpinwei฿ III on Schwarz German spec 1 of 12
SMG SRA PDC AUC OBC GSM HK UURS IHKA FGR MFL
IG: https://www.instagram.com/iflok/
I have exactly this same problem. i don't understand how you fixed it though - i release the motors and pop them back, this only stops the blinking light and allows me to close the top back, but when i try to OPEN the top again the same problem persists: the front retracts back a couple of feed, the rear lifts up about a foot, and it just stops, and i also presume it's because the lid to the stowe compartment does not open. someone else had suggested (on a different posting) manually opening the lid, and manually pushing the top inside, while the motors are disengaged, but i can't figure out how to manually open the lid even while the motors are disengaged.
it appears many have had this similar problem, if someone could kindly chime in and let me know what more i can do (before i'm forced to take it to a mechanic and pay few hundred bucks)
thanks
Followed instructions for re-syncing motors...worked great, thanks for the info.
I hope I'm not breaking protocol.
I currently have a 92 e36, pre vanos, auto. sedan. Its been in the family since new.
I would like to switch to a cabriolet. This would be my toy, I love the shape of the e36.
My question is, I have been reading about an emergency release handle that disengages the top lift, lower motors. How difficult is it to raise the roof by hand, as I'm sure the top will be down for most of the time.
Thanks and cheers
Rob Kay
hey thanks for the great post. I am trying to re-engage the top drive motor by the gears are misaligned. As suggested I am trying to move the gear slightly with pliers or a flat head screw driver but it does not budge. Has anyone else experienced this? I am hesitant to push too hard since I would damage the gear teeth.
I have a 1995 325ic and can't trouble shoot my convertible. does anyone near Boston,Ma knows how to work with convertible?
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