I live in Arizona, so it's 115 degrees out this time of year. For some reason, when it gets hot outside and my car has been running for a while, it starts to run like crap - the engine feels and sounds labored, and power is greatly reduced. No check engine lights (well, other than the stupid P0446 evap problem), temp gauge never goes above halfway, and the A/C is still cold.
I have recently replaced the VANOS solenoid, which made a difference, but this specific problem has persisted. Since it doesn't overheat, I don't think it's a cooling system problem. I'm wondering if it's a fuel pressure problem (fuel pump, regulator, or injectors?), but I'm at a loss.
Anybody seen a similar problem, or have any ideas on how to diagnose and/or fix this? Help!
97 M3 - Estoril Blue 5spd Coupe
Sound: 60GB Video iPod into Nakamichi CD-400, CDT Audio HD-642, RE Audio SE10, Phoenix Gold Xenon 600.1 and 200.2
Handling: Koni SA, Eibach Pro-Kit, front strut bar, 245/35/18 Yokohama S.drive on RO_JA Formula 7, Rogue RSMs, GC RTAB shims
Performance: Akebono Euro Ceramic pads, Zimmermann x-drilled rotors, DIY K&N CAI, ASC delete, Understeer SSK, UUC TMEs + clutch stop
Appearance: OEM clears, rear lip spoiler
well hot air = less air in combustion chamber = less hp, even if you have a cold air intake.
Hotter air will reduce power but don't be so sure about the temp gauge. It's basically a dummy light. Are you running the stock fan?
Hey, it's 115 here too...even my turbo'd m3 feel slow...it's normal..I went to San Diego last week and my car really liked that weather..I was loosing traction in second and third upon going wot.
96 M3, GT4094R, Arrow Rods, CP Pistons, Elring HG, cutring 87mm, 10 mm ARP studs,MS3pro, EMC Intercooler, n54 6 speed with Motiv twin disk, ZT-2 wideband, Zionsville Radiator, X-brace, H&R springs with bilstien shocks, QTP electronic cutout, Line Locks, stock exhaust 455rwtq, 453rwhp at 14 psi 91 octane.......684rwtq, 681rwhp at 24 psi running flex fuel E60 at time of dyno tune.
This is *not* normal. This didn't happen last summer. It feels like I have a 4 cylinder - it's not just that it's a little slower. I still have the stock fan, but it's possible the problem is the fan clutch (it's original w/ 140k miles). I actually have a high power Spal fan sitting in the garage waiting to replace the stock fan - just haven't gotten around to it yet.
97 M3 - Estoril Blue 5spd Coupe
Sound: 60GB Video iPod into Nakamichi CD-400, CDT Audio HD-642, RE Audio SE10, Phoenix Gold Xenon 600.1 and 200.2
Handling: Koni SA, Eibach Pro-Kit, front strut bar, 245/35/18 Yokohama S.drive on RO_JA Formula 7, Rogue RSMs, GC RTAB shims
Performance: Akebono Euro Ceramic pads, Zimmermann x-drilled rotors, DIY K&N CAI, ASC delete, Understeer SSK, UUC TMEs + clutch stop
Appearance: OEM clears, rear lip spoiler
when is the last time you did any maintenance? (fuel filter, spark plugs, clean intake) If you haven't changed your fuel filter in the past 10k miles, do it. I knowticed a big difference when I changed mine out after I bought the car, although it looked like it was the original filter
Nice to see another Estroil around AZ!
Fuel filter about 30k ago (probably time again), spark plugs 5k ago, new filter for CAI 3k ago....
97 M3 - Estoril Blue 5spd Coupe
Sound: 60GB Video iPod into Nakamichi CD-400, CDT Audio HD-642, RE Audio SE10, Phoenix Gold Xenon 600.1 and 200.2
Handling: Koni SA, Eibach Pro-Kit, front strut bar, 245/35/18 Yokohama S.drive on RO_JA Formula 7, Rogue RSMs, GC RTAB shims
Performance: Akebono Euro Ceramic pads, Zimmermann x-drilled rotors, DIY K&N CAI, ASC delete, Understeer SSK, UUC TMEs + clutch stop
Appearance: OEM clears, rear lip spoiler
check your maf or your blower fan?
The MAF sensor is something I hadn't thought of. By blower fan do you mean the aux fan in front of the radiator? That is working fine.Originally Posted by Loud_TIGER
97 M3 - Estoril Blue 5spd Coupe
Sound: 60GB Video iPod into Nakamichi CD-400, CDT Audio HD-642, RE Audio SE10, Phoenix Gold Xenon 600.1 and 200.2
Handling: Koni SA, Eibach Pro-Kit, front strut bar, 245/35/18 Yokohama S.drive on RO_JA Formula 7, Rogue RSMs, GC RTAB shims
Performance: Akebono Euro Ceramic pads, Zimmermann x-drilled rotors, DIY K&N CAI, ASC delete, Understeer SSK, UUC TMEs + clutch stop
Appearance: OEM clears, rear lip spoiler
i feel like i have the same problem on my car sometimes. usually a restart fixes it, which seems to imply that it's not a mechanical issue. i did notice that the issue seemed to go away when i had the blower fuse out during the time i was fixing my climate control. i know it's summer, but try pulling that fuse and seeing if it helps any. you won't have a/c though.
the maf issue is completely different; i had a dirty maf and it was going nuts. i was getting 10mpg on the highway under light throttle.
anyway, let me know what you find out.
get a lower temp tstat and replace your stock fan with your spal
R.I.P. 97 Hellrot ///M3 Coupe
new car: 03 NBP RSX Type S
My car does the same thing. How long have you owned the car? You could just be more used to the car now than you were last summer, and didn't notice it then.
Looks like i am in the same boat as you guys - have a S50 from 95 m3 in my e30 and notice quite a bit of power loss after a bit of driving on a warm day. Feels like it looses at least 30-40 hp as i rev up but it just doesn't pull. This definitely has to do with temperature. Maybe at certain coolant temp point ECU pulls power back?
could it be a faulty temp sensor? (the one for ECU not the gauge)
I have a WAI tho, basically a big K&N filter attached right on the 3.5 HFM (i have no space in tiny e30 engine compartment to make any extensions or heatshields)
just for stats: recently changed: sparkplugs, fuel pump, airfilter, TStat, waterpump
cleaned HFM, TB
checked coils for proper resistance
I also have only the stupid old clutch fan and no electric aux fan, but the car never overheats according to the gauge.
I've had the car 3 years - I was used to it last summer.Originally Posted by SQ Bimmer
97 M3 - Estoril Blue 5spd Coupe
Sound: 60GB Video iPod into Nakamichi CD-400, CDT Audio HD-642, RE Audio SE10, Phoenix Gold Xenon 600.1 and 200.2
Handling: Koni SA, Eibach Pro-Kit, front strut bar, 245/35/18 Yokohama S.drive on RO_JA Formula 7, Rogue RSMs, GC RTAB shims
Performance: Akebono Euro Ceramic pads, Zimmermann x-drilled rotors, DIY K&N CAI, ASC delete, Understeer SSK, UUC TMEs + clutch stop
Appearance: OEM clears, rear lip spoiler
get a spark plug wire set
dave, my car feels exactly like you described. let me know if you find whats up. mine seems way worse with the a/c on.
edit: dave, how are the calipers treatin ya?
Last edited by souroull; 07-02-2006 at 09:04 PM.
does having your a/c on totally screw your shifting up too?
YES!!! how annoyingOriginally Posted by Loud_TIGER
feels like dropping the clutch, while i naturally dont. i blame the a/c compressor for that though, its squealing like a raped monkey
Last edited by souroull; 07-02-2006 at 09:03 PM.
Well, I finally got around to installing a lower temp thermostat, aluminum thermostat housing, 16" Spal puller in place of belt-driven fan, new belts (both of them), new a/c tensioner pulley (bearings were shot), new water pump (preemptive), lower temp fan switch, and replacing the coolant with a 60/40 water/coolant mixture + 1.5 bottles of Redline Water Wetter. And wow, what a difference - it feels like I lopped off 50,000 miles of engine wear. It pulls hard all the way up the rev band, and even idles better when hot.
I'm guessing that either my fan clutch was shot, the thermostat wasn't opening all the way, or that the stock cooling system just doesn't cut it in Arizona (or all of the above). Whatever it was, the DME must have been detecting knock and retarding timing when it was so hot.
So anyway, for those of you with this problem, order the fan delete kit from Understeer.com (except you can't use the water pump thread cap nut - the fan won't clear it), a Spal 16" curved-blade puller (with the Spal wiring kit and a mounting kit), and a new water pump (if you haven't replaced yours already), and you'll be in business.
souroll - the calipers are holding up nicely. I finally got around to ordering a replacement for that screwy brake line from UUC, and I'm switching out the pads to Hawk HPS next weekend. Hopefully that will get rid of the squeak.
97 M3 - Estoril Blue 5spd Coupe
Sound: 60GB Video iPod into Nakamichi CD-400, CDT Audio HD-642, RE Audio SE10, Phoenix Gold Xenon 600.1 and 200.2
Handling: Koni SA, Eibach Pro-Kit, front strut bar, 245/35/18 Yokohama S.drive on RO_JA Formula 7, Rogue RSMs, GC RTAB shims
Performance: Akebono Euro Ceramic pads, Zimmermann x-drilled rotors, DIY K&N CAI, ASC delete, Understeer SSK, UUC TMEs + clutch stop
Appearance: OEM clears, rear lip spoiler
There is a fan off of the Euro M3 that has more fins and thus blows more air. I'm at a loss for the part #, but still, something to look into.
If you have some loose change, why not replace the coolant temp sensor, and the air intake sensor, just to see if it helps.Originally Posted by scoutmasterdave
perhaps these two sensors are faulty, and are fooling the DME into over richening the air/fuel mix.
Perhaps (w/o reading the whole thread), the O2 sensor is dodgy as well, so that the DME is running rich by default.
Add some redline *waterwetter* to your coolant/water mix.
edit. I see you took care of the latter.
m
when i was uti, and we got to run cars alot on the dyno... it seemed like 10 degrees would lose 5hp or more.... once we ran a celica first thing in the morning (6am, about 65 degrees) and it made like 115 hp stock, then we ran it at the end of the day (11 am 110 degree in the dyno room) and it pushed like 90 hp... soo.... iono..
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