Yes, of course!!!
Kind of, but I'm still confused.....
What is this about again???
Plastic is plastic, and more susceptible to failing and the possibilities of a leak are much higher so you’re going to end up doing more work in the long run.
I’m not saying you’re doing it wrong but I’ve done this so many times now and the plastic one threaded or glued always has issues.
98 M3 sedan
What else do I need other than the E36 325i manifold to fit it to my E36 328i?
Which other BMW cars had this larger manifold?
How much should I expect to pay for a used manifold in the UK?
Are there any aftermarket kits that do the same thing in the UK?
This thread is 49 pages and I'm sure this question is answered....start reading
See answer above
Google, Ebay, facebook market, etc....take a look and see.
You are changing out intake manifolds.....not sure what your expectations are for this. I'm sure there are different "kits" to help you install the m50 so that the ICV, vacuum routing, and IAT mounting look like stock compared to others. Not sure about in the UK vs a US company and having them ship it over.
1997 Arctic Silver/Black M3
CES Stage IV (651rwhp/615rwtq @ 24 psi)
1999 Techno Violet/Dove M3
Auto/Convertible and staying stock!
Is the m50 intake manifold the only one that will fit an s52?
Any consensus on what's the best conversion kit from m52 to m50 manifold?
There's so many of them
I don't know if there is a consensus but I really liked the m50manifold.com stuff.
I wouldn't keep the cyclone separator, so just plug the long hose. Not a big deal if you do, just get a new one and new drain hose. Take out your dip stick tube and make sure the drain isn't blocked (which it probably is)
I also love the thicker throttle body gasket. Others use a plate or other methods. The right size gasket is what you need and is cheap.
1997 Arctic Silver/Black M3
CES Stage IV (651rwhp/615rwtq @ 24 psi)
1999 Techno Violet/Dove M3
Auto/Convertible and staying stock!
I guess I'm in the wrong section since I don't have a 3 series but a 5 series instead. 528i is not even on the compatibility list on the website. Not sure if there are any differences with E36.
If you don't keep the oil separator (CCV), where do you route the hose from the crankcase gases? Did you install a catch can instead or you just vent in the air?
I have a large hose that vents to the ground, and I see a small drop every once in a while
1997 Arctic Silver/Black M3
CES Stage IV (651rwhp/615rwtq @ 24 psi)
1999 Techno Violet/Dove M3
Auto/Convertible and staying stock!
So while I was trying to decide if an M50 intake swap was worth it, I saw a lot of conflicting info. But I've done it, and here is what I've learned.
First I have 1998 US E36 323 Convertible.
Previous Mods.
Shark Injector, Cold Air intake, Clutch Fan Delete, High Performance Cat, but stock exhaust otherwise.
New Mods.
Tuned DME, with Air pump Delete, post cat O2 delete, 7200rpm Rev limiter, M50 intake (turned out to be M50b20!), E46 medium tube headers, with wrap, 2.5" Mandrel bend exhaust with straight through resonator and muffler, CCV replaced with Catch Can.
So the process, I started with just replacing the exhaust because it was toast, then I though I should get headers, then I thought if I'm doing headers I should improve the intake....Then while I'm modifying the M50 intake, I should get rid of the CCV, headers don't fit with the Smog pump, I'll need a tune, so a new DME, wait, the injectors are 24 years old and the o-rings leak, new injectors, every gasket I touch needs a new one....so it was a large undertaking.
I made the exhaust and the E46 headers did fit quite well, I had to do a "Roadkill" dent in one tube to clear the engine mount, but it's a little dent.
The M50(b20, not b25) manifold that I had to ordered from Belarus was a throne in my side, I kept getting intake leaks, car ran like crap, ordered new gaskets, when they came, they didn't fit, that's when I realized it was a M50b20, so I ordered gaskets for that, then it still leaked, that's when I realized the different shape of the intake holes where they meet the head, the M52b25 and M50b25 intakes are more oval, the M50b20, all though larger than the M52b25 intake holes, are more circular, now that I was invested, I wasn't giving up. I was getting leaks from where the head holes were about 1mm wider than the holes in the intake....so some Intake gasket maker later, no more leaks, besides all the other throttle body gaskets I changed. Even with the loss of the 1mm, the intake size is still a lot larger than the M52b25 intake. (Buyer's beware)
At this point I changed the injectors, cheap ebay ones, as I was in for more money than I planned at this point. It was rough running and the O2 was failing, so I had some extra ones, OEM ones (24 years old) and amazon specials, but they all kept failing and were intermittent. It was hard to start as I'd have to press the gas pedal. It was pretty pathetic, especially in the low end.
Then at idle I noticed a miss, after troubleshooting I noticed the cyl 3 wasn't firing properly, the plug was fowled. I changed the plugs, still missed, swapped coil 2 for 3, still missed on cyl 3. Now I was worried I burnt a valve or maybe some intake gasket maker or other debris fell in the cylinder. But then I decided to try pulling the brand new injector 3, put the old one in, and BOOM!
(I also ordered a new Bosch O2) first test drive, I peel out at the stop sign! (one minor problem is the fuel rail o-ring on the old injector leaked this morning, but I fixed that) But now wow, there is a totally noticeable difference in power.
Compared to last year, the power in the car, low end and top end is noticeable in your butt.
When vanos kicks in, you feel it, not quite like turbo lag, but if you had a baby turbo, ya.
One wheel peels are easy now, before I had to drop the clutch at 4000 and hope for the best.
BUT I think my results are different because I did a full exhaust and headers with the intake, and a DME tuned for such, if you were to do just a intake you may not see as great of a result.
Also my new exhaust probably weighs 50lbs less, at least, the old muffler was a cow, I could barely lift it into the scrap bin.
But be prepared, 20+ year old cars, everything you touch may break, while I had the headers off and the car on the hoist I did my oil pan gasket, something I needed to do but just didn't want to get into it, so there will be things like that too.
Lessons learned:
Ebay injectors suck, the one leaked right from day one, lucky I didn't end up with hydro lock.
Ebay/Amazon o2 sensors are temperamental, when I swapped to the bosch o2, even with the leaking injector it ran way better.
Order every gasket of every thing you'll touch, so you don't end up waiting on parts when they are enviably bad.
I know this is an old topic, but as a 323 owner, I wanted to know if I could see some improvement, with out the go to answer of put a 328 engine in it....So there is potential for the 2.5l. I haven't dyno'd yet, but I would imagine, comparing to my other cars, I see this making 200hp now, I have 2020 x1, 220hp/240ftlb, and roughly the same weight, and the 323 is much closer to it now than my Mazda 5 (roughly the same weight) with 170hp/165ftlb.
Last edited by Bmwtuulos; 06-13-2022 at 09:17 AM.
That sounds like a lot of work!
M50manifold.com is having a Black November sale. Couldn't settle for just Black Friday.
Blue and red hose kits will be 169 and black kits will be 179. Free shipping.
Sale will run through the end of November.
The website and links aren't quite finished and posted yet. So keep checking back. Should be up and running soon.
-E
Glad to hear you hunted down the problems, I'm so happy to know that this thread is still thriving!
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Madeiraviolett Bf.C club member #001
1996 BMW 328is Madeiraviolett/Dove Grey: 5 Spd, Sport, Cold Weather & Premium Sound pkgs.
3.5" ECIS/ITG intake -> Samco ASC Delete Boot -> DINAN TB -> M50 Manifold -> S52 Cams | Bav Auto Red-top ignition coils tuned w/ AA software, Dynomax Cats & Stromung exhaust UUC Pulleys & Clutch stop, FDM=Zionsville radiator, Mishimoto Tank, SAMCO hoses, Fidanza LTW flywheel & M3 clutch, UUC Evo3 SSK, 3.23 LSD, Koni/Eibach Adjustable Damper suspension, PUR RSM's & RTABs, CF Strut brace, UUC Swaybarbarians, Motorsport X-Brace, 17x8 Beyern Mesh wheels Hella CELIS projectors + 5k TRS HID's, Fog delete=Brake cooling duct, LTW wing, ///M Bumper & R. Diffuser
CCA Member #382557
This thread should be unstikied so people don't do this power wasting mod. Usable low end power gone. In exchange for some top end that few will use.
Attn. NEWBIES: Use the search feature, 98% has already been discussed.
Click the search button, select "search single content type", select the "e36 sub forum" specifically, try the "search titles" then try the "search entire posts".
I had the bimmerworld M50 kit but had some leaking issues from other areas, pulled trigger on Rally road kit, pricey but what a great buili part and hood everything in place properly.
I have a 99 M3, a few years ago I installed the Shark Injector performance software (Part# N3MS41). At the time I only had a UUC system U exhaust and UUC underdrive pulleys however, since then I've added a Dinan CAI.
I'll be doing the M50 manifold swap with the conversion adapter kit ECS sells by Rally Road (Mfr# MAN-1) (ECS# ES#3027035), the Shark Injector software should still work fine correct?
I also read that to get the best performance its recommended to remove the performance software prior to installing the manifold. Once installed you should drive it for a few days to allow the computer to adjust, then if no issues re-install the performance software. Is this true or unnecessary?
I appreciate any information you guys can provide.
Anyone have the instructions for the M50manifold.com kit? I boought it a few years ago and got into a accident so didnt install it but now i cant find the paper work that had the instruction PDF website on it.
Email me at m50manifold @ gmail.com
I'll send them to ya.
Eric Paul Eviston - 1 Piece Silicone Hose M50 Manifold Conversion Kit
******M50 Manifold Install Trouble Shooting Guide Here: www.m50manifold.com
'98 M3/4 - ECIS CAI, S50 Manifold, Conforti Software, 16" Spal Puller, UUC Pulleys, Fan Delete, UUC Stage 2 Fly w/M5 Clutch, UUC Blacks w/TMEs, X-Brace, GC RTAB shims, GC RSMs,
M Roadster lever, 245x40x17 all 4 corners, Drilled Zimmermans, Motul RBF600 and Redline Synth fluids. My Dyno HERE
My Website: www.m50manifold.com
My Email: info@m50manifold.com
I sold my 528 and bought 540😀
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