E39 FAQs/ Links/ Autoparts/ 528i links

[jamesdc4]

Thank you John 540i6 for this write-up. I thought it might belong here in the FAQ.

Does your car have mixed performance sometimes? Is your car sluggish in the mornings? Do you have to apply too much gas for too little acceleration sometimes? Do you feel like your car is way faster sometimes and then feels flat and torque-less other times?

Well, chances are that this is clogged.



This is the silver canister sitting right above the throttle body. Cleaning it is very simple.

All you need is a flat blade screwdriver and some Carb and Choke Cleaner that costs 3.19 from an autoparts store.

Pop the plastic engine cover off to expose the intake manifold.

Remove the hose clamp holding the rubber hose to the idle control valve.

Then use the screw driver to push down the upper tab on the rubber mount that the idle control valve slides into. If you have a good hand, you might be able to slide the idle control valve out of the rubber mount without removing the mount from the black bracket.

Remove the wiring connector by pushing in/squeezing on the metal locker around the plastic connector. Then just pull the connector off the valve.

Gently pull/pry the idle control valve out of the intake manifold. Its just stuck in there with a rubber mount/gasket piece.

After you have the valve in your hand, look inside the valve and see if it has any dirt or build up inside it. If it is not shining a bright silver, then its dirty. Spray the carb and choke cleaner in both holes untill it looks spot less. You want the inner part of the valve to spin freely inside the canister. shake it and twist it like you were using a door knob till you hear the valve inside start spinning. If you twist the canister back and forth kind of fast, you should hear the inside part spin. It will go clink (back)---clink(forth)---clink(back)----clink(forth)

After you are certain that the inside 'door' can swing open and shut easily, Reinstall the part. The little door will be just slightly open. If its fully shut or fully open, the part is either still dirty or it is bad and needs to be replaced.

When i checked mine, i found that the door wouldnt move freely. I could twist the little door inside and it would stick wherever i put it. This is not how it should work. It should move freely.

After the cleaning, the door opened and shut very easy.

I reinstalled the part and holy crap! the car runs amazing now- Ive found my lost power! The car starts up better in the morning and it isnt sluggish until it starts getting warm. It just cranks up and drives off like it should.

This took me 10 minutes from when i popped the hood to when i finished washing my hands.



Loosen #1
Unplug #2
Unhook #3
Pull out #4
Spray carb and choke cleaner inside both holes till its damn clean.

Installation is the reverse of removal.

[ViolinARC]

My brother started a thread regarding this subject and Qsilver7 came through with flying colors on this one.
Thanks guys.
Here is the link to the entire thread:
http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum...d.php?t=799013

Upon further research, I discovered that this feature was originally for the police to prevent their vehicles from being jacked by prisoners being transported. I thought everyone knew about it until I posted this original thread.

12CoolDude formerly ViolinARC

[jamesdc4]

Thanks gray1g!

[jamesdc4]

ZF Tranny Charts 1991-2002:









GM Tranny Chart 1991-2002:

Thanks Qsilver7.

[jamesdc4]

If you ever find your self with a closed/locked trunk and a dead battery...rest assured that you can still access the trunk.

Just manually stick the key into the trunk lock cylinder and turn it counter clockwise to unlock it. The trunk was designed to still open manually if there is no power...and the same is true for the driver's door:

[jamesdc4]

You must have a total post count of 15 in order to attach photos.

[FP5241]

Here's an interesting site... Lots of different items from different places to compare prices....

http://www2.partstrain.com/store/cat...?make_text=BMW

[jamesdc4]

If you are interested in reading/clearing any fault codes your E39 might be throwing, there are a several ways to do it.
The least expensive solution is to take your car to Autozone where they will read/clear your codes for free and if requested, provide you with a printout. Another way is to purchase a Fault Code scanner like the Peake tool or obdcom.
The Peake tool is small, relatively easy to use, and doesn't require a laptop. The obdcom uses a laptop, but has many more features than the Peake tool and costs less (however, it can only clear fault codes and will not reset the oil and service indicator lights).
There are many others to choose from, but some are much more expensive or are not BMW specific.
Of course, you can always take your car to the dealership or an indy (one with a GT1 computer preferrably) and all is well.

[jotsuka]

thanks guy for all this hard work...

[jamesdc4]

The external temperature sensor is located on the passenger side under the front bumper.

Here's a close-up.

It's not on the fender wall...it plugs into an indentation in the plastic underpanel on that side of the car...directly back behind the fog light and in front of the front right (passenger) wheel.

There are clips in the indented panel that match grooves on the temp sensor. It just clips into the underpanel.

(images below are by shaftdrive from BimmerFest.com)

[jamesdc4]

so you got issues starting, running and all the electrial stuff is going googlie eyed on you. guess what? it's either your alternator or battery. most likely it's the battery.


head over to your autozone (hey, they are more then just for O2's) and pick up a Duralast 49-DL. Secret about car batteries: there's only 3 manufactures and all are about the same; Duralast is made by Johnson Control which also makes Diehard, Interstate and Optima . don't spring for anything more like Optimas unless you are going to compete in audio show which then you'll need special batteries but for everyday Joe, Dick and Bob, the Duralast is your winner. And at about $65 (i think.. could be $67 but not over $100) plus tax, it's the winner by a HUGE margin.

save some ducks and take yourself out to a good dinner with the $65 you just saved then going to a dealer for a battery.

*link fixed*

[e39alpine5]

After going to the dealership and being quoted $187 for a new key, I decided to seek alernative methods. I asked around and every said no you CANT replace the battery. So I assumed this was correct information. I had 2 dead fobs and wanted my keyless entry back. So I said why not crack the key open and see what you find. I didnt know if this would work so I didnt take any pics at the time, but I will take pics when I do my next fob.
Once open I saw the chip with the battery. This is where I started my own DIY.

ITEMS NEEDED:

3v battery per fob. A pack of two at wal mart will run you about $5

Epoxy or similar strong glue.

A small flathead screw driver, utility knife, and electrical tape.



Step 1. Pry open the key fob along the seam line using your tool of choice. I used a mini flat head and razor. Be careful not to crack the casing.

Step 2: Remove the chip. As you can see there is a 3v battery "welded" so to say, to 2 flat, flexible prongs. Separate the prong from the battery using a utility knife. I simple put the razor edge in between thebattery and the prong pressing down firmly, rocking the knife back and forth. Be care because when it separates, its suddenly.
Repeat this for the opposite side. (keep in mind which prong is positive and which is negative.)

Step 3: Now for the next step I suppose you could solder the prongs to the battery to make it better, but I didnt want to expose the battery to the heat, so I simply took a small slice of electrical tape and secured both prongs to the battery, wrapping the tape around both connections. You must make sure the tape doesnt interfer with the connections.

Step 4: Place the chip back in place properly and test the fitment. You can use a razor to feather the edges if necessary. Now before I permanently sealed the key, I programmed it using the instructions here http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum...1&postcount=31. Use a piece of electrical tape the wrap around the key so it doesn't fall apart. Make sure to follow the step thoroughly. If you still cant double check the connection on the battery.(I had no issues).

Step 5: Now that your key is programmed, remove the strip of tape. Apply a glue... preferable something strong, I used epoxy because its strong, and can fill in any gaps, and sets fairly quickly...around the contact points of the half that contains the key (purpose of this is because the other side hold the chip, which you don't want falling out). Use an appropriate amount so it doesn't seep out everywhere.
Then put the halves together and wrap a piece of tape around them while the glue sets. You can feather out any seeping glue with a toothpick or any like item.


Step : Once the glue is set remove the tape. If neccessary apply more glue for a good seal. Repeat steps for other keys. Then enjoy your $8 dollar fix and laugh at the dealership!!

[98 528i]

My brother started a thread regarding this subject and Qsilver7 came through with flying colors on this one.
Thanks guys.



Here is the link to the entire thread:
http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum...d.php?t=799013

I have that feature in my nav, cool to know those without nav can do it too.

[Only1Balto]

*link fixed*

Is there an update to this? Auto zone no longer carries the 49-DL. When I asked if they had the 49-DL he said yes- but not for my car because they were causing shorts. We went to the rack and none was to be found. They took them all off. Any other suggestions?

[jamesdc4]

Is there an update to this? Auto zone no longer carries the 49-DL. When I asked if they had the 49-DL he said yes- but not for my car because they were causing shorts. We went to the rack and none was to be found. They took them all off. Any other suggestions?

Thanks for your post. It does look like the Duralast 49-DL has been discontinued. The closest replacements would be...

http://www.autozone.com/autozone/par...9459_359257_0_

http://www.autozone.com/autozone/par...2331_401285_0_

There are quite a few good replacement batteries out there for our cars. Any input to keep the archives current would be greatly appreciated. I still have my Duralast 49-DL in my 540i and it's still going strong. Using a smart charger weekly seems to be helping the battery longevity.

[Flounderasu]

Just to update this thread for the battery, Walmart sells one that fits (540i). It's the EverStart Maxx H8 (900CCA) and is a direct drop in (including vent tube). It has a 3 year full replacement warranty and then a 2 year pro-rated warranty, so a total of 5 years. Price is about $120.

http://www.walmart.com/ip/EverStart-...ttery/16782659

[axel bob]

jamesdc4 I really could use your help. Do the X5's have this type of AMBIENT TEMP sensor too? If so, where is it located?
forums.bimmerforums.com/forum/showthread.php?2055904-2005-X5-3-0-(E53)-AC-Compressor-won-t-engage-Ambient-Temp-probe-location

Just add http:// to the above link to see my post for help/info
thanks