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Thread: The elusive fuel filter...

  1. #26
    Join Date
    Mar 2008
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    coral gables
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    17
    My Cars
    528i
    good thread im looking foward in doing mine this weekend

  2. #27
    Join Date
    Feb 2008
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    Marietta,Ga
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    246
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    02 e39 525
    Just wanna say, This is a walk in the park for anyone thinking about it.

    Mine and i know i may get yelled at this one was OEM from 2002 and 160k later my car is drinking like a champ and I may have gained like 5hp and some more acceleration cause my car was drinking through a crazy straw lol.

  3. #28
    Join Date
    Apr 2008
    Location
    CT.
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    59
    My Cars
    1999 528IT

    I would like to add to this thread.

    I just replaced the fuel filter on my wifes 1999 528IT. The plastic shield is held by an assortmant of fasteners. Our car had two typs of plastic push-clips, two plastic nuts (10mm) and if I remember right 7 and 8mm metal hex screws. 5mm hex wrench and 5mm hex bit drive for the clamp bolt that holds the filter. I had a hard time using the hex bit when it came time to clamping the filter back into place. The standard 5mm hex wrench worked much better in lining up the bolt in the blind hole. I couldn't remove all the plastic push-clips without damaging them. I found that putting a putty knife up agenst the car and using a wide blade screw driver along with needle pliers worked best. The putty knife protected the underside of the car against damage. I replaced the funny hose clamps with "fuel injection fuel line clamps". If you look at the pic of the old clamps, they had a beveled slot and two flat sides that I could grip with pliers. The "c"-clamp up front and vice grip in the rear worked great to pinch the lines, like the other poster said. Start the car to check for leaks. I had to cinch down a clamp a little. You will probably notice that when using the "fuel injection fuel line clamps" that the ears will have very little space between them when fully tight. Here are some pics I took of the tools needed along with the damaged push-clips and new and used hose clamps.
    Attached Images Attached Images
    Last edited by Highgear; 04-03-2010 at 07:29 PM.

  4. #29
    Join Date
    Apr 2002
    Location
    Seattle
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    3,753
    My Cars
    '97 E39
    Has anyone noticed any actual performance/economy difference?

    Some cars I have owned gained significant top-end resulting from fuel starvation, others no detectable difference.

    You can usually tell if there will be any gains after you get the filter out and blowing through it. If you can blow through it, good-to-go. If not, you're likely to feel a difference.
    Originally posted by Beau
    the turbo is the perfect garbage can....

  5. #30
    Join Date
    Nov 2009
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    Campbell, CA, United States
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    1,686
    My Cars
    2002 BMW M5
    I hope that removing the old & installing the new unit on my M5 goes pretty smoothly... !

  6. #31
    Join Date
    Feb 2009
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    USA
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    My Cars
    2001 530i (E39) 128k
    I have a 530i 2001, and I have been putting this off for 2 reasons:

    1) have seen other threads talk about replacing a crush washer. Does anyone have this part number? Also, do I need to unbolt anything from the old fuel filter? I saw another DIY video where he needs to go back to the workbench and attach an old part onto the new fuel filter. Is this the pressure regulator? Is this a separate only on other models (M3, M5, 540i?) Do I need to do this step, or it is only attaching rubber fuel lines?

    2) I want to order a few extra plastic connectors for the plastic underguards. There's nothing more annoying than breaking a .25c part, and having the car inoperable for a week, while you wait for a part. Anyone have the part numbers for all the fasteners involved? I might as well replace them while I am under the car.

    Thanks.

  7. #32
    Join Date
    Sep 2009
    Location
    The Lou
    Posts
    300
    My Cars
    E39 540/6, E70 X5, F06
    Quote Originally Posted by OnTheFence View Post
    2) I want to order a few extra plastic connectors for the plastic underguards. There's nothing more annoying than breaking a .25c part, and having the car inoperable for a week, while you wait for a part. Anyone have the part numbers for all the fasteners involved? I might as well replace them while I am under the car.
    Realoem.com is your friend to locate part numbers and assembly diagrams.

    Not having the plastic guards installed on your car by no means puts it out of operation. My previous owner somehow lost mine (1.5 years ago), and she still runs (like a champ I might ad).

    L

  8. #33
    Join Date
    Feb 2009
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    USA
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    2001 530i (E39) 128k

    Thumbs up 2001 E39 530i Fuel Filter DIY

    2001 BMW E39 530i Fuel Filter DIY

    I always felt this DIY was weak, and lacked a lot of detail and photos. As a result, there are a lot of unknowns:
    • How do you jack up the car?
    • How do you remove those plastic undercarriage fasteners?
    • How much gas gushes out?
    • Should you disable the fuel pump fuse?
    • Which cars have those "self-destructing" crimp-style hose clamps? (Oteker)
    • Is the pressure regulator built-in?
    • Should you replace the fuel lines while you're there?


    This is one reason I put it off for so long. Well, all this and more is addressed below.

    This DIY took me about 5 hours.
    A lot of it was the unknown, trying the wrong method, and thinking what if this/that....
    If I did it again, it would probably take me 45 mins.

    What follows is a more thorough DIY write up than what currently exists online.
    I have several pieces of advice that will make your job faster & easier.

    Parts to buy:

    At 11 years and 120k miles, my fuel and vacuum lines were still good as new. They did not need to be replaced b/c of condition.
    However, they are near impossible to remove! Trust me, just cut off ALL the hoses and clamps, and replace with new.
    Don't try to remove and reuse them. Just trust me on this.

    * 1 foot of fuel line. 5/16" ID (Inner Diameter). I got it at AutoZone for $8. Once you're in there, you will chop this into 3 small sections to match, and have some left over.

    * Expanding Rivets. Part #51118174185. .26c/each at the dealer. They are reusable, but I ripped the head off one of the nails while trying to get it out. Don't get caught without spares. There are 4 or 5 holding the panel. Just buy 10, and save a few extra. I like to just replace everything with new stuff on the way back out.

    * 6 hose clamps. 12-15mm. Part #07129952104. About .75c to $1/each. Dealer was $1.20

    * 6 inches of vacuum line. Inner diameter 1/8". I had some left over from replacing some vacuum lines in the engine bay. I ordered from this seller for $1/foot. Great price
    [ame="http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=310266276412#ht_500wt_ 927"]I ordered from this seller for $1/foot. Great price.[/ame]

    Total cost of all parts above is about $20.
    I think I paid $52 for a Mann filter from AutoHauzAZ.com
    Fuel filter can be found using part number 13321709535 on the website I made... www.furiousmethod.com

    Extra tools to have on hand:
    * Utility knife.
    * Tin snip / wire cutter. You need a larger one for leverage. (To cut off the single use OEM hose clamps)
    * Needle-nose pliers
    * I used the small 1/4" drive sockets (5, 8, 10mm)
    * $5 thumb wheel ratchet came in handy.
    * I wish I had a $5 trim pry bar on hand Else, just pry expanding rivets off with flathead and/or needlenose. Be patient, some can really be tight.
    * Dishtowel and large radius bowl to absorb spilled gas.
    * Hanging Light to see. I used this $10 light


    Jacking up the car

    I used this $85 low profile jack

    * First, I drove up onto 2 staggered planks of wood. This gave me extra clearance room to get my low profile jack under the front bumper to raise the car from the middle jack block (under the engine)
    * Chock the wheels, pull the E-brake.
    * Jack up the car.
    * Put 2 jack stands at the side jack points.
    * Lower car onto jack stands.
    * Remove jack.





    Removing undercarriage panel
    * Once you pry up the expanding rivet nailhead, just pry a screwdriver b/w the car and the panel, and just pop off the panel and rivet at the same time . There's no need to try to pry it up from the base. Use a little muscle and give it a quick "pop". It can take it.

    * You'll also need to remove 2 screws in the wheel well.

    * There are a few other bolts you'll need to remove. They all came off easily. One inner tab is hooked onto a bracket, so don't be afraid to get under the car and look at the inside edge of the panel.

    [ame="http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=s7BSmSsO7Zk&context=C3aefe0bADOEgsToPDskLE llBFG-0zgfL6rJmS4Or5"]See this video to see how the expanding rivets work. [/ame]

    Removing the filter
    Vacuum line

    Front fuel line


    Note: I did NOT remove the fuel pump fuse in the glove box. Why? I was curious if it was necessary, and just how much gas would actually come out with fuel pump pressure still on. See below.
    Note: In the rear, make sure you notice that the curved fuel line goes to the center nipple of the fuel filter.

    * Ok, let's start! First, loosen all the hose clamps, and move them to the middle of the hose area. Use the ratchet. I think it was 5mm. Screwdrivers suck on hose clamps. One was rusted solid and stripped, but thankfully it was on the filter side, so I never had to remove it.

    * JUST CUT OFF THE HOSES. Don't try to properly remove and save them. You will waste a TON of time trying to pry them off. There is very little play with these hoses, and it's very hard to get a proper grip. I have no idea how you can twist or pry these hoses off. I sat there for a long time wrestling, picking, prying, pushing, pulling...all to no avail.
    In the end, I decided to cut the hoses with the utility knife. Mentally, this was the hardest part of the entire DIY, b/c once you cut/destroy, there's no going back. The car is now inoperable. Now, the only way out is to complete the entire job successfully, or get a tow to the mechanic.

    I only detached the side of the hoses that were attached to the car. I did not detach the hoses from the fuel filter itself. First, I sliced the vacuum hose to get it off. Then I sliced the front fuel hose and forced it off. The filter then pivots down and I drained it into a tupperware dish. When I sliced the fuel hose, there was an small initial pressurized squirt (like a Windex bottle), but then it was just a steady dribble. It took a minute or two to drain. When done, place a towel at the front to absorb additional gas that spills while you now work the rear hoses (and move the bowl there)


    This is how much gas came out of the front.


    Note all 4 hoses are still attached on the filter side.


    I then worked on the back 2 hoses. One of the back hoses had the "single use" OEM clamps that have no screws. They must be destroyed to be removed, and are a bitch to remove. I used a combination of large tin snips, needle-nose pliers, and wire cutters to mangle this fucker until it finally unraveled. Notice the notches, as soon as you have some play, try to unravel the clamp. This probably took me 15+ mins to finally get off. Get comfortable. The other 2 hoses had screwdriver-type hose clamps. Note that after you get the first hose off, the last hose can be removed quickly by simply spinning the entire fuel filter a few times around until the 2nd hose snaps its seal and slides off.



    There is a bracket holding the fuel filter in place. In hindsight, I think it's best to leave this on until the last step! This way, you don't even need to drain it. Just cut all 3 hoses off, then detach the bracket and slowly lower the filter. Stick your head in there to see how the bracket works. Careful, there is some sort of "star" washer that the end of the bolt screws into once it's all the way in. When you remove the bracket, it will fall down. You'll need to hold this up in place (blind) when you're reassembling. You hold it above the backet so the bolt threads into it once it's all the way through both holes. You'll see.

    Here is all the drained fuel. Total maybe 6-12 ounces?. I guess there was dirt in the filter.


    Reattaching the filter
    Install the old filter's bracket & rubber bushing onto the new filter.

    Next, attach the new vacuum line to the plastic tube on the car. If you try to attach the vacuum line to the fuel filter first, and wait to attach the other end once the filter is in the way, it will be harder. You need to grab the plastic tube, and muscle on the vacuum line. Push hard! Get it on there.

    I reattached the 2 rear hoses first. If you attach the front line first, you'll never get these back on. There's just no play here. Hoses are stiff. So, connect these first! Put the 2 hose clamps around each hose before reattaching! Also, the curved fuel line went to the center nipple of the fuel filter.



    In the front, I then connected the vacuum line. Then, I connected the front fuel line. You'll notice the front metal fuel line can be pushed forward to give yourself some room to get the front fuel hose seated. You'll need to flex the front fuel hose a little also.


    Parting shot before putting the panel back on.


    Reattaching the panel
    To replace the panel, first "hook" that inner tab...Then reattach the main center bolt in that cavity.
    With lots of play in the barely attached panel, now attach the front wheel well bolts.
    You'll need to wiggle the panel around from the bottom while you try to catch the bolt into the thread. See if you can eyeball the threads through the hole.
    Then attach the other bolts. Finally, push in your new expanding rivets. This felt good....




    Starting the car
    I didn't start the car until everything was buttoned up. To build fuel pump pressure again, I left the key in accessory mode for about 5 mins, while I cleaned up.
    Car immediately started on the first crank, as if no gas was ever let out. Zero hesitation!

    Now that its over, I'm glad I did this one.
    At times I felt I was in over my head, b/c of so many "what now/ which way" moments.
    I think having this DIY will make it a lot easier and concrete.

    Update: I hacksawed the fuel filter. This is what it looks like at 120k.
    One side it pure black. The other side looks new.
    Last edited by OnTheFence; 03-21-2012 at 07:22 PM.

  9. #34
    Join Date
    Feb 2011
    Location
    SC
    Posts
    622
    My Cars
    03 540iT M Sport
    WOW, now THATS a DIY write-up. THANK YOU!

  10. #35
    Join Date
    Jan 2013
    Location
    Seattle washington
    Posts
    6
    My Cars
    1997 528i

    Fuel pump, regulator, relay, or filter which one is it?!?

    Hi everyone i read in full everything and put some serious thought into which route to take today. Heres whats going the past couple of days my 97 528i has had trouble starting. Ive got power starter cranks fine so it neither of those right? I can hear the pump come on when the key is in position 2. Eventually after several times turning the key from off to position 2 and allowing to sit in position 2 then cranking it she will fire up, my friend calls this "priming". So my question is which do you think is the problem fuel pump, fuel filter, fuel relay, fuel regulator? Im guessing its the pump simply not getting enough fuel to the engine?!? Help please and thank you

  11. #36
    Join Date
    Feb 2009
    Location
    USA
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    2001 530i (E39) 128k
    You should test the fuel pressure at the Schrader valve on the fuel rail. I think it needs to be in the 40s. I'd Google it.

  12. #37
    Join Date
    Jan 2013
    Location
    Seattle washington
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    6
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    1997 528i
    Thanks OnTheFence for getting back to me on this! The other day i got into my car and drove to this pho restaurant to have lunch. When i was done eating and ready to leave my car wouldnt start. I ended up leaving it there over night and returning the next morning with a new filter in hand. Well just for the heck of it i tried to start it and it fired up on the first try! I drove it home and changed the filter now it wont start again. Seems like it does better from a cold start. Ill look into that schrader valve today. I also have a new pump to put in. Any thoughts on my theory about cold/hot starts?

  13. #38
    Join Date
    Nov 2006
    Location
    Edmond, OK
    Posts
    1,359
    My Cars
    00 540i, 11' X5 50i
    Guys, I changed my filter out about 6 years ago but I don't recall if I clamped any hoses or not. I tried to change it out again a week ago without clamping lines and had fuel spraying everywhere without stopping. I had even pulled the fuel pump fuse beforehand. Does anybody know if it's supposed to stop spraying fuel after so many seconds or minutes? I don't remember having this issue last time.
    thanks,

    Current:
    2016 BMW 535i xDrive
    2017 Volvo XC60
    2000 BMW 540i

    Past:
    2012 Audi A4 S-Line
    2011 BMW X5 50i
    2010 Mercedes ML350
    2002 Lexus IS300
    1998 Audi A6 Quattro
    1988 Honda Prelude

  14. #39
    Join Date
    Feb 2011
    Location
    Fairfield, Connecticut
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    1,339
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    '98 540i '01 540i 13 E70
    Quote Originally Posted by Jamaican71 View Post
    Just thought I would post up a very brief DIY on changing the fuel filter. I just wasn't happy with any of the DIYs or threads I had searched.

    This was done on my '98 528i:

    Fuel filter is located literally under the driver's seat. After placing the drivers side up on jackstands, remove the underbody paneling. (about 6 screws, 2 screw caps, and 5 expandable panel plugs)

    Clamp the fuel line before and after the fuel filter. I used a C-clamp on the line leaving the filter and a pair of vice-grips at the input. (wrap the jaws with tape first):

    I had very little fuel spill and it all came from the filter, so try and keep it level as you remove it. (Tip: Use a small open end wrench to pry the line off the filter for ideal leverage.)
    The filter is held in place by a bracket with a 5mm Allen screw. The filter is directional, so be sure to pay attention to the direction the arrow is pointing.

    Secure the clamps on the lines and, once reinstalled, turn the key prior to replacing the underbody panel to check for leaks.

    Prior to starting the car, leave the key in position 2 for about ten seconds and step on the gas pedal fully for about 3-5 seconds. You may have to try starting a couple times untill all the air is out of the line.

    Good Luck!
    Can you tell me how you knew it was bad or was this just a proactive change? Thanks

  15. #40
    Join Date
    May 2015
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    Bear,Delaware
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    1
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    2001 525i
    nice

  16. #41
    Join Date
    Feb 2011
    Location
    Fairfield, Connecticut
    Posts
    1,339
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    '98 540i '01 540i 13 E70
    Quote Originally Posted by 300kplus View Post

    Can you tell me how you knew it was bad or was this just a proactive change? Thanks
    Well I tried getting an answer on this as you can see quite some time ago, and didn't get a response so I'm trying again because I'm not sure what kind of problem I have but my car stalls when I come to a stop, and at this rate the starters not going to last anywhere as long as it should from repeated starting. I replaced the fuel pump in 2009. When it went though it left me standing still unable to start as I was making the turn. my point here is no build up or behavior before this just simply quit. I don't know when the fuel filter was last changed but I'm looking for information on that as well if any of you indeed think, that this is the behavior of a fuel filter that needs to be changed. I also have missing going on while I'm driving it every so often. HELLP!!
    Thanks in advance to everyone!

    - - - Updated - - -

    Well I tried getting an answer on this as you can see quite some time ago, and didn't get a response so I'm trying again because I'm not sure what kind of problem I have but my car stalls when I come to a stop, and at this rate the starters not going to last anywhere as long as it should from repeated starting. I replaced the fuel pump in 2009. When it went though it left me standing still unable to start as I was making the turn. my point here is no build up or behavior before this just simply quit. I don't know when the fuel filter was last changed but I'm looking for information on that as well if any of you indeed think, that this is the behavior of a fuel filter that needs to be changed. I also have missing going on while I'm driving it every so often. HELLP!!
    Thanks in advance to everyone!

  17. #42
    Join Date
    Aug 2009
    Location
    San Jose
    Posts
    33
    My Cars
    '94 E36 '03 E39 530i
    Quote Originally Posted by OnTheFence View Post
    2001 BMW E39 530i Fuel Filter DIY
    Thanks LuftPost for that excellent DIY on the Fuel Filter change on the 530i. Just successfully changed out the ORIGINAL filter (marked 2002) on my '03 530i. The instructions were right on for the most part. Some notes for others who are also changing out a filter with double lines going in and out vs the single lines.

    1. Release pressure via the Schrader valve towards the front of the fuel rail. The fuel rail is underneath the plastic covering the spark plugs.
    2. My filter was FULL of fuel, however you can keep most of the gas contained by keeping the filter level while removing. I did not pull the fuse for the fuel pump.
    3. Unscrew the bracket in front of the fuel filter (towards the engine) holding fuel lines and vacuum lines flush with the body. This step makes it a TON easier to tilt the filter downwards and remove the hose.. It also makes reattaching the new filter easier.
    4. As noted by the original DIY attach the back hoses first.
    5. You may want to start the car up before reattaching the cover just to make sure there are no leaks.

    Used rhino ramps and this procedure took approximately 1.5 hours to complete taking my time unrushed. Clearance was tight, probably would use jack and stands next time and put the vehicle higher up.

    HTH someone..

  18. #43
    Join Date
    Feb 2004
    Location
    Oakland, CA
    Posts
    935
    My Cars
    '02 525i M54 MT
    Great DIY!
    I plan on doing my inspection II services this weekend.
    Are you guys using the OEM filter or the MANN filter?
    "If she spills anything, she MUST clean it up. After she is done, I tell her to "Tuck and roll" at 65mph." -Gumbi4u


    Paul // Oakland, CA // Registry Link // My Ugly Mug

  19. #44
    Join Date
    Aug 2016
    Location
    Virginia,USA
    Posts
    3,144
    My Cars
    528i, 525iT, M5
    Great Post and thanks to everyone who added input. The job was simple and easy on a 2003 525iT. Read the instructions twice and with a few screws and clips and all was accessible. Reused my hoses as they were ok.
    Attached Images Attached Images
    Current Garage Highlights
    2003 525iT TiSilver
    2002 M5 TiSilver
    1998 528i KASCHMIRBEIGE METALLIC (301) (Goldie)

    Former Garage Highlights
    2005 X5 4.8is
    2004 325iTs (2x)
    1973 Pantera L
    1971 Dodge Dart Swinger "Lite Package"
    1970 Dodge Challenger T/A 340 Six Pack Alpine White
    1970 Dodge Challenger T/A 340 Six Pack GoManGo Green
    1969 Road Runner 383
    1968 Barracuda Formula S 340 Sea Foam Green

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