Wolfie

[jbd5015]

So i picked up Wolfie yesterday, and all of the extra parts that came with him. Havent gotten photos of the extra parts, but got some of the car after i washed it and put on the racing dynamics strut brace. Next thing is changing out the tires, figuring out how to make the windows work again, and seal up some of the leaks in the seals. Anyway, here are a few photos:















The paint is pretty faded, the pictures make him look a lot better due to the lighting. The tranny has some linkage/sync issues, but shifts fine. The motor is running good and strong, but im getting tired of not having the windows work, its a little too warm out. But since i shouldnt really be driving him around, i think ill be able to survive. Im going to do the springs and bushings to get rid of the shimmy, and it pulls to the left, so i might as well get some work done to make it worth the price of an alignment. Anyway, this will be the thread for the car, so ill document the work done and all that jazz, and ask for a lot of help, so please inform me as you guys have been and i thank you for that a lot.

-Jeff

[640CSi]

So which windows don't work? Was it the rears? Because if so you should check the breaker on the console with the other swiches and the one under the steering wheel. The wheels look familiar... and good! I wish the finish was that nice on mine. They have started the peeling stage! There is a guy on ebay who sold me a front rigid bar, and with my help is fabricating one for the rear which he will be marketing soon if you are interested. Plenty of potential!

[jbd5015]

Thanks, and its all the windows actually, and sincei dont have a repair manual, can anyone help me identify what the breaker looks like on the console? Well see about that rear one, right now im worried about getting the car past inspection and paid off and all that jazz, ill see what i can do tomorrow afternoon beings that i have the day off.

-Jeff

[640CSi]

In my car, it is a switch under the headlight switch, but I think it may be on the ignition side of your under steering wheel panel. If it is tripped, or one of the cables came out, it will cause the windows to not funcion.

[dm635]

looks good.i can't help out with the electrical on the windows right now,but i'll look in the book later.
you can operate the windows manually.the crank is in the door panel covered by a plug.in the center of the crank is a small hole for an allen wrench(if you have the long one in the trunk tool kit,it should work)turn it the opposite way that it is now,in or out,and you should be able to roll it up and down using the crank.the little allen screw inside moves something to allow you manually roll the windows.my rear window circuit breaker is under the radio,it's a rectangular switch.hope that's not too confusing.

[jbd5015]

That helped me out a lot dave, and i couldnt figure out the wiring or anything with the window switches, but the connections under the switches looked fine, it must be something that sends the signal to all of them from further up in the system, but i can get the windows down now which is good for me. Got the old wheels on, next is going to be the suspension i suspect. Thanks for the help.

-Jeff

[dm635]

ok jeff,i have some info.this is from an 85 model though.power comes from relay K9(right above the rectangular wiper relay) and key on energizes it(no fuse).
from there power goes to the circuit breaker(have you found it yet?)
with the key on,relay and circuit breaker good,you should have power at pin 3(red)at each switch.
the little square push button switch in between the front and rear switchs,next to the shifter is not the circuit breaker.it locks out the back windows.
hope this helps.there is an 85 ETM(electronic troubleshooting manual) floating around out there on the web somewhere.one of them had the words count chocula in it.i think i just saw it recently posted in the tech artical section over on bigcoupe dot com.
hope this helps.

[dm635]

just checked.it's in the use link section over at bc.com

[jbd5015]

That definitely helps out a lot dave, i just picked up a circuit tester today, but i wont be able to get to work on Wolfie in a few days unfortunately. Im looking to do suspension and brakes because they are shot, and i need new front rotors to pass inspection. The car came with a set of Dinan springs!! WOO HOO. Looking to get some bilsteins because they are the way to go. Im going to have the Dinan springs and 17's, so if i dont want to ruin the ride even more, should i just go for the "comfort" struts as opposed to the HD's or would the sports be a good substitute? Im looking for some input on this one, and one last question, anyone know the diameter of the upper control arm bushings? I have the 750il's, but not sure if they are the fabricated ones, i would assume they do something to make the diameter smaller...correct? Again, thanks for the help Dave, and too anyone whom may be reading, first part for sale is a matching set of MINT rear speaker pods in black, PM if interested and make an offer.

-Jeff

[dm635]

i could really use a good set of pods.mine aren't that bad,but i'm going to start looking in changing my interior to black,may a couple years to get it all.don't want to paint or dye my blue int.
you can only use the sports with lowering springs.i use the HD's on stock springs.pd $100 for a good used set.good ride except for the poly upper control arm bushings.i don't like them,too harsh,but they are an up-grade and do what they're designed to do very well.anyone want to trade for 750 bushings?
how about the seats?

[jbd5015]

I see, well ill see if i can email you some pictures of the speaker pods, they are in great shape. As for the interior, im still up in the air with it. Ive got the recaros in the front, they are soooo comfortable compared to the "comfort" seats because they actually have lumbar support. I didnt swap out the back yet because there is a leak in the gutter on the right side over the rear seats, and i figure leather will hold up a little better than cloth if it gets wet, but ive got some sealer to see what i can do for a quick fix. When i find out how much it will cost to get the M-Interior redone, ill probably be selling my tan interior which is in decent shape, id give it a 7.5 out of 10. Im going to be doing the shocks/struts, springs, bushings, and switch to 540i brakes in the coming weeks. If anyone wants some of those parts off mine let me know.

-Jeff

[Ol'6erGuy]

Alas, your car is too new for me to use many pieces. I know that you don't really want the c/r trans., and my car would love you for it.

[jbd5015]

The tranny and diff would go together, they came out of the same car. BUT they are staying with me...i think i may do them as well this summer, maybe later on or whenever i can get the car on a lift. The diff is a 3.1 or 3.2, im not exactly sure i just spun and checked them by eye. I do need a shift knob for a threaded stick shift though...if anyone has a spare lying around.

-Jeff

[jbd5015]

Ok, well i have some more pictures, and a question about suspension. Ive got what looks to be dinans, but im not sure which ones. Im going to look at them tomorrow to get the part number, but does anyone know if they lower the car at all? I would assume that they do, but i want to make sure because i am leaning towards getting bilstein sports, which need lowering springs. Ive got a picture of them here, but its not a close one. And there are no part numbers inscribed on the springs either, but perhaps they are recognizable to someone?

Dogleg, LSD, and Front springs:



Sport seat fabric pattern:



The Wolfs Den:

[Ol'6erGuy]

You truely have a nice find Jeff. I want you to check two things. Look at Wolfie's rearend, I have a feeling that it is going to be a different style. What you have for a LSD is a sideloader, used in the pre '82 cars and if it goes with the dogleg it will be a 3.07/1. Look at his tranny. If it doesn't un-bolt from the bell housing, you might be in trouble again. Finding a bell housing shouldn't be too hard, but the speedo on the pre '82 cars is cable driven. I believe that the post '82's are electronic and I think all of them get the signal from the rearend and the sideloader doesn't have provision for it. Also, I believe the motronic injection gets crank position readings from the flywheel at the bell housing. I don't believe the two piece trannys are useable.
If I am all wet on this please someone let me know!!!
Bill

[640CSi]

I don't think that diff will fit your body... Is the one in the car bad or something? Do you know what gears you have in the car?

[640CSi]

You truely have a nice find Jeff. I want you to check two things. Look at Wolfie's rearend, I have a feeling that it is going to be a different style. What you have for a LSD is a sideloader, used in the pre '82 cars and if it goes with the dogleg it will be a 3.07/1. Look at his tranny. If it doesn't un-bolt from the bell housing, you might be in trouble again. Finding a bell housing shouldn't be too hard, but the speedo on the pre '82 cars is cable driven. I believe that the post '82's are electronic and I think all of them get the signal from the rearend and the sideloader doesn't have provision for it. Also, I believe the motronic injection gets crank position readings from the flywheel at the bell housing. I don't believe the two piece trannys are useable.
If I am all wet on this please someone let me know!!!
Bill

I think only some years used the fly sensors in the bell, but you are right about the diff not fitting and checking the other trans to see if it is a 265 because the 260 is one piece. I just got a dogleg for free not long ago, and had to buy another complete 4 speed just for the bell...!

[jbd5015]

ok...so let me get this clear. The diff just wont work, because its the side loader, i thought it looked different. And when you say that the 260 is one piece, you mean that it is the tranny and bell housing? But it sounds like i could use the tranny if i get a bell housing for it? I would want to find a lower ratio rear end to go with the c/r tranny though. Any input would help, im glad you are telling me now so im not scratching my head when ive got all the stuff up on a lift or something. Ill see what i can find out tomorrow with part numbers and stuff.

-Jeff

[640CSi]

That's about right. The post 82 cars had the symmetrical diffs. My 79 used to have a sideloader, but it was open and I wanted an LSD so retrofitted a newer subframe. IF that diff is an LSD it should be easy for you to ebay it and get enough cash to get a bellhousing and another diff with the ratio you want. I will be stripping my 79 soon and may keep the 3.25 LSD in it if you are interested.

[jbd5015]

I would be interested. I need a lower ratio diff. Is that about as low as they go with the post 82 cars? I just dont want to be driving around at 65mph with the tachometer at 4000 rpm. Ill clean up that diff and see what i can do. The PO said it was a LSD, anyway i can check to see if it is for sure? Once i find out, if anyone on here is looking for one, let me know...as Bill said, its a 3.07:1.

Thanks again guys,

-Jeff

[640CSi]

So you want to go numerically lower, not a lower ratio. If you want to have lower RPM's with the dogleg, maybe you can find a 2.80~ diff from an E23. I am thinking the same thing because the 88 sixes had 3.63 gears and with a 1:1 5th gear it will definitely be revving up there...

What ratio do you have in the car now?

You can check the sideloader by spinning one of the axle shafts, and if the other one spins the same way it is LSD if it spins the opposite way it is open. Also you can check by holding one axle flange and spinning the other one. If one stands still and the other side can be turned - no LSD.
I have seen them on ebay for up to 500.

[Ol'6erGuy]

The standard ratio for the euro 635's with c/r trans was 3.07:1. This is because fifth gear is 1:1. All were lsd units. When they started using an overdrive five speed, the ratio went to 3.25:1 and 3.45:1 because of the .81:1 fifth gear. Units were not necessarily lsd ones.

[jbd5015]

well, ive got some part numbers here, so tell me what you guys think/know. The trans number is 262.0.510.00 There were some other numbers, but i dont know what they are. The diff is definitely a limited slip, and up for grabs. I havent decided on price yet, im gonna look around to see what other in this condition are going for.

-Jeff

[jbd5015]

Got Wolfie into a shop, and i need shocks/struts, tie rods, and a catalytic converter to pass PA inspection. Does anyone know if a cat off of a E28 would work for the 6er? Cause i can get one of those for free. I was planning on doing the suspension anyway, so the tie rods are no problem. I only need the cat because i just bought the car, as long as i dont go over 5000 miles a year, i can get rid of the thing all together. Anyway, the tranny in the car is a one piece. And since the car needs more work than i thought, i may be selling the tranny with the diff, but not sure yet.

-Jeff

[dm635]

an e28 exhaust will fit,BUT,it has to be from a 535.
at least for my 635,your's is an 83 633 right?so i really don't know.
i needed the down pipe and had to wait for a 535 to come in.he had plenty of 528e's and said they wouldn't fit.
sorry,but i can't be for sure.there is a way to cross reference on realoem.