Wolfie

[Shipper]

With what you are about to spend, a good refreshed 220hp euro sounds the go. With a little love you can tease 254hp (Alpina-esk) out of it and really do Wolfie justice.

If you are going to do all of this work, do it to a euro motor. What do they cost over there anyway? $500???

Gives you a 40hp headstart. Best $500 you'll ever spend!

[FernandoBunster]

I agree with Shipper. I dropped a stock euro engine in mine and it has made a world of difference.

[e24mpwr]

+1 to the above. Looking forward to seeing the car at SESF!

[jbd5015]

Good news and bad news!

Bad news! Budget ran out. Wont be able to get the car running as soon as I was hoping.

Good news! Progress will still continue as I've decided to tackle the body work! I am going to cheat though. No paint is going on this car. Im going to fill the holes, convert to world bumpers, and wrap the car up! It will be less expensive, more fun, and less work than a paint job.

Initial thoughts include creating an art car replica, race car replica (which im leaning towards), or doing something else ridiculous. Obviously this will extend the project even further as it is a budget build, but im ok with that!

Unfortunately I wont be making it to SESF this year as Im taking a trip to California around the same time. Im hoping i can make the trip to the party in Winchester though!

cheers!

[FernandoBunster]

My vote is for the Australian JPS race car livery. Hope to see you in Winchester!

[jbd5015]

Just picked up an M30B35 from an early 90's 5 or 7 series! george facilitated the deal and i got it for $300! Started tearing it down for its trip to the machine shop.

Its a 133k engine with all the leaks and unsightly surface rust one would expect. Cooling system had a bunch of junk in it, seized water pump etc. The head looks great, but it had the classic oil spray bar problem. Back bolt was out, front is on its way out.

Intention is to send the short block to the machine shop for a good tank, and check up. Im going to go for high compression pistons with the help of the machinist and try to build a bit of a motor for the car. Fell into a little bit of cash that should help!

Interior did not survive the storage over the past few years, so ill be stripping it down, putting in a roll cage/harnesses/racing seats etc. Looking forward to trying my hand at assembling a ratty race car.

[Shipper]

Nice. Never good to see a 6'er go to a race car but as long as you keep her clean enough to reverse the race build, nice.

My E3 racer runs an M30B35 with big cat cams and all the goodies. The block is Group A, the crank shaft new for strength, knife edged and balanced, the pistons Group C (original, like the block. The block and pistons are off of the Frank Gardner JPS racing spare parts shelf). The conrods are S38. All in all It is 3.6 litres and with triple weber 48 DCOE's should be running around 370hp. So you have plenty to work with. If you are going to get high compression pistons, go the big cam and conrods now and design the piston to suite an overbore, longer stroke and big lift valves. A stock M30B34 is guaranteed 330hp in Group A trim. You should be able to build a good streetable 280hp engine.

[amibuggnu]

Sounds great Jeff - Wolfie 2.0!

Maybe something like this...?

[Shipper]

That broke my heart. You're a bad man sometimes. And where's the tatt?

[jbd5015]

Making headway on the project this week!!

Machine shop is wrapped up with the flywheel resurfacing. Ill be installing a '90 M30 that i pulled (running) from a 140k mile E34 that was automatic and babied its whole life.

This way I can at least get the car running again and work out the kinks of sitting for 10 years. Ill be taking some time off work in August to devote to this leg of the project.

Fortunately I've got enough parts lying around for brakes, body, suspension and engine that I can move from one area to the other when I run into an issue!

[DesktopDave]

Looking forward...to progress!

I have a complete US B34/automatic combo in my parts car here. It was running four years ago. Odo said 182K miles, that seems likely. If you wanted to yank it from the car you're more than welcome to it. I'm less than four hours' drive from you, and there's lots of tools, engine crane/cherry picker, etc..

PM me if you're interested. The engine needs a complete electrical system, belt-driven accessories, odds and ends, but it seems like you're well situated for all eventualities.

[Ol'6erGuy]

Hi Jeff! Glad you are back to Wolfie! Hope to get back to mine soon. Going to retire for good in Dec.!

[jbd5015]

Great progress over the weekend!

Spent time on the donor motor. Removed the wiring harness and cleaned the areas around the intake manifold and cylinder head.

Replaced valve cover gasket and thermostat housing gasket. Removed exhaust manifold studs to replace.

Ordering parts for oil pan & level sender gasket, rear main and crank shaft seals, pilot bearing, etc etc.

Things I am looking for that some of you fine folk might have collecting dust:

Passenger side motor mount bracket: 11811175990 this is specific to the later E24/E28s. Driver side bracket never changed from B32 block to B35 block. Im finding that '83 was a weird year, wasn't alive yet, so I can't vouch...

Clutch Alignment Tool. I may find one in my stash as I get through it, but hasn't surfaced yet.

Cheers,

-Jeff

[jbd5015]

Just ran into the next hurdle!

Power Steering Pumps! Im hoping that the E34 pump will be sufficient for the E24. They both use hydraulic assisted brakes and a steering box.

I was looking into which pump to use, and they are both different in size and how they mount to the engine.

Simplest option I see is to have a custom high pressure line made to run the E34 pump. Ive got a great hydraulics shop in the area that will do the trick, unless anyone else has a solution?

Cheers

-Jeff

[Bert Poliakoff]

E 24 has a restrictor in the line. I don't know if it is really necessary or not. Problem is it takes a special die to crimp it in. You will have to cut the old one from your existing line should you decide you need it and hope your hydraulic shop has the capability to crimp it in. Mine couldn't and I had to buy a factory line

[jbd5015]

Thanks Bert!

Perhaps a line from a later model E24 id guess that uses a pump with banjo fittings as opposed to tube-nut fittings?

[Bert Poliakoff]

long as it seals Banjos just give you more flexibilty for orientation My 81 has tube nut fittings Check realoem diagram

[jbd5015]

My original pump is the tube nut fitting.

Looks like the hose from an late model (85+) will work just fine, Pelican parts has a few left, for under $100. SCORE

Thanks again Bert!

[Bert Poliakoff]

Nice thing with the B35 is Motronic 1.3 I hope you got the harness and ECU `a small modification is needed to adapt it to your fuse box. You can get a hold of Mark D'Silva and have him design a chip for you that will even give you more beans out of your motor. Just be sure you use the Motoronic 1.3 one way or another

[e24mpwr]

Glad to see this thread active again!

[jbd5015]

Glad that I've found the motivation to get this project moving along! Having the flywheel really made this seem worth tackling again!

Parts that arrived today include: oil pan gasket, rear main seal, alt/power steering belt.

Dismantled the original hydraulic system, including removing the fluid filter from the bottom of the reservoir. Ordered new filter, pump rebuild kit, pressure hose and coolant reservoir (pelican parts). Ill do my best to get some photos tonight when the pan goes back on!

[jbd5015]

This weekend I got the transmission removed, fuel tank & high pressure pump assembly removed, engine bay power washed, installed engine wiring harness, repaired wiring harness at rear diff and trans reverse lights, and sorted through the parts bin that was the trunk. Ive got quite a few backups and spares rolling around!

Hoping to get the body wiring harnesses rewrapped with some great OE looking cloth harness tape from a great company called Angry Ass Solutions out of Austin, TX.

Things Ive come to find that are puzzling me a little bit:

1. Motronic 1.3 - Does it even use the bellhousing pickups for anything? Im not seeing anything to hook them up to! Im assuming it utilizes the ignition pickup off cylinder 1 ignition wire and the Harmonic balancer instead? Ive also got two connectors on the engine harness that I havent found homes for. One is under the intake manifold by the oil filter, Im assuming for the purge valve solenoid (not getting used in my build) and the other one is by the AFM connector and the IACV. Also curious as to the possible differences between an Automatic vs Manual wiring harness or components and ECU's. Ive got 4 to 6 ECU's floating around, not sure which would work best for the car.

2. I seem to have LOST my rear sway bar (suspension techniques), bushings and brackets. Ive got a few places left to look, but Im going to be on the hunt for that stuff eventually!

3. Fuel tank is ROTTED from the inside. No big deal, pretty much expected that. I will be installing a fuel cell in the trunk instead as I intend to get the car track ready and it is the most affordable solution! Any one have any specs on the resistance of the fuel level sender? They measure the resistance and empty and full to get the specs. Lots of the fuel cells have a sender but the ohms may not be exactly the same for the stock fuel gauge. Im hoping Ill be able to use the stock high pressure pump/filter assembly and just move it to the trunk to circumvent having a lift pump in the tank.

Cheers,

-Jeff

[Shipper]

I don't run a rear sway bar and a lot of 2002 racers leave them off as well.

[Bert Poliakoff]

No bellhousing pick ups used with 1.3 Gets the signal off the toothed wheel on the crank shaft pulley you will have to some wiring modifications to connect the harness to your fuse box mainly splicing in a cannon plug for the 1.3 harness to attach to

[jbd5015]

Glad to hear there is some success without running the rear sway bar! I'll start without it and see how it goes! Ive heard of a few folks ripping the frame mounts off the car with upgraded bars and aggressive driving... The mounts are't terribly thick or boxed anyhow. I reckon ill deal with it when I get around to putting the adjustable camber/toe kit on the rear subframe.

Glad to hear that the pickups arent used! Thanks Bert! The wiring harness I picked up has the mods done to the plug for the fuse box. Next is making it look pretty and taking the time to get the cables for the battery wired through to the trunk.