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Thread: DME Failure????

  1. #1
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    DME Failure????

    Okay so I took the '97 M3 into the dealer today because I was getting a bank 1 sensor 1 fault(OBDII). They cleared the codes and then they said I had a bad ground on the DME and it needs to be replaced. $1,300 please. I said I'd get a second opinion.

    Any thoughts?

    TechnoV

  2. #2
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    If it was me, I would buy a Peake Research fault code reader. The $180 is definitely a lot less than $1300. Of course, if the stealer is indeed telling the truth (which is rare these days) I would still look around for a DME and find a reputable shop to do it. I hate dealerships. Blech!

  3. #3
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    I'd remove the DME and try cleaning the connector with electrical contact cleaner and see if that helps. The contacts are only nickel plated and can develop corrosion on them. It's worth a shot.

  4. #4
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    Sounds like a code for a bad O2 sensor or a knock sensor (you didn't specify which sensor), NOT a DME problem.

    Find another dealer, or an independent BMW mechanic.

    My 2 cents,
    Jim

  5. #5
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    I have found on mine the the DME cover mounting and DME position is very sensitive. If it's not just right you won't get any signal from the DME and will not get a "check engine" light at key-on. At that point the car will crank, but won't start. How do I know. It's happened to me twice.
    "Way-dull" Racing #74

  6. #6
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    Originally posted by kaiservon
    I have found on mine the the DME cover mounting and DME position is very sensitive. If it's not just right you won't get any signal from the DME and will not get a "check engine" light at key-on. At that point the car will crank, but won't start. How do I know. It's happened to me twice.
    Could you elaborate? I wonder if you have a bad contact in the connector....are you saying small movements in the DME clamped-down position are causing a problem?

    A little OT...where in Orlando are you? I'm in the Dr. Phillips area. Do you know a good independent in the area? I'm a little upset with Fields at the moment. TIA.

  7. #7
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    Could you elaborate? I wonder if you have a bad contact in the connector....are you saying small movements in the DME clamped-down position are causing a problem?
    It's hard to elaborate because I haven't exactly pinpointed it down yet. I have inspected the connector contacts numerous times, but no found problems. Broke down and traced the DME wire harness, but no found problems there either. The problem lies somewhere with the DME. I'm thinking its the cover, but can't verify if the DME cover has a relationship to the DME grounding.

    A little OT...where in Orlando are you? I'm in the Dr. Phillips area. Do you know a good independent in the area? I'm a little upset with Fields at the moment. TIA.
    Unfortunately not. I'll let you know if I find one. I try to do all work myself. What can't be done in a garage is then performed in a buddy's shop in Longwood.
    "Way-dull" Racing #74

  8. #8
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    Originally posted by kaiservon


    I'm thinking its the cover, but can't verify if the DME cover has a relationship to the DME grounding.

    .
    One thing about the cover...maybe this is common knowledge?...but when the tabs break-off because you've opened it more than once....it may be a good idea to secure it with aluminum tape. Some people use duct tape...but that be a bad choice if there are grounding issues....

  9. #9
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    it may be a good idea to secure it with aluminum tape
    One step ahead of you brother. Surprisingly enough the aluminum tape didn't work. I ended up putting double-side tape in-between the cover and the base. It's been a few weeks and no issues since then.
    "Way-dull" Racing #74

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