Replacing Coolant problem and engine noise. Advice needed

[PDX///M]

Okay so ive been fighting this for a while now. I removed my fan clutch and put in an electric fan. To do this I had to drain the radiator and pull it. Once I got everything back in I filled the overflow container with fluid and tried to get the car cycling fluid again. I would let the car run with the cap off and then shut the car down. The fluid would drain into the engine block and I would fill the overflow container again.

I have done this about 6-8 times and still the fluid ends up boiling in the radiator and it just wont kick the thermastat. The main radiator hose that goes from next to the oil filter to the right side of the radiator gets hot but it doesnt fill with fluid all the way. I can squeeze the hose while the car is running. (with gloves) and i can tell it isnt full of fluid.

Last night I did another test after the car was hot. I pulled off the radiator hose from the right side of the radiator and poured coolant down the hose. The coolant would flow in and it would pour out of the right side of the radiator (where the hose would normally be connected to).

Im at a loss, Im not sure what to do.

Another piece that im worried about is that when the car gets hot I hear a ticking sound at the front part of the valve cover. The ticking only happens at 1200-1400 rpms but it doesnt sound good. Im thinking that it could be that there isnt enough coolant in the engine block but im not sure. I would think that if it was a bent rod or lifter that I would hear the ticking all the time wouldn't I. Not just when the car is hot and at a certain RPM.

[psk145]

did you replace the thermostat?

[PDX///M]

No i didnt touch it. Just pulled the radiator and put the fan on and then filled it up again.

[joe325i]

where the ticking is comming from is the vanos control unit i belive... mabye the thermostat broke?!?

[pw455]

It sounds like you still have air in the system. I just changed my waterpump/thermostat this weekend and filled the coolant the following way.

1) Open the bleeder screw located about 1" towards the front center of the car.

2) Fill the overflow with coolant/distilled water until no more bubbles came out of the bleed hole.

3) While I was doing this I would massage the upper/lower radiator hoses to help get the air out.

4) Tighten the bleeder screw & radiator cap.

5) Start it, drive it around and then recheck the level. You shouldn't need to touch the bleeder screw to add coolant unless the temperature seems high.

I'm not sure why, but the manual also states to turn the car to the on (not started) position and turn the heater controls to full hot.

My temperature is right at 12:00 so I think I did it right.

When I was finished, the level was over the COLD mark. Does anybody know if this matters? I'm a little concerned because it's a closed system.

[Jim O.]

Did you open the radiator bleed screw, and turn the heater on high/hot? What I usually do is fill the radiator, squeeze the hoses a little to burp them. Open the bleed screw, put the heater on hot, and top off the radiator. Leave the radiator cap off and the bleed screw open. Turn on the engine and let it idle, topping off the radiator when it gets low. Let the engine run until the temp gauge is in the middle. When no more bubbles come out of the bleed screw, then close it up. Turn off the engine, top off the radiator again, and put the cap back on. Go for a test drive....

Jim

[PDX///M]

I think that is my problem. Can someone point out where this is. Is it on the manifold or on the radiator?

Im sure it is just air in the system *crossing fingers*

[Jim O.]

It's that plug with an X on the top, near the filler cap on the radiator.

Jim

[myred318i]

Sounds like your lower radiator hose has air in it, and the waterpump can't get a prime. Try massaging the hose to get some water up into the pump, or you may even want to disconnect the lower hose from the engine side and "fill" it with coolant and reattach. That should prime the pump and coolant will flow through the system.

Good Luck.

[banic]

I've got the same problem, different symtom.
No heat. I pulled the upper hose when I found no heat in it... I poured fluid in it just before dinner. I'll go grab the lower hose. If its cold I'll try priming it...

I had no problem when I replaced the waterpump about two months ago. I had the car up on jack stand and the system bled the first time.

I lost my remote thermostat, and most of my fluid.
Just replaced it today and trying to get the fluid moving....

[BMWM3some]

I dont think its very safe to have no fan and a supercharger do you? I heard it wasnt a very good idea.

Chris

[banic]

I've got heat, but it took awhile...
Pointed the car up hill.
Opened the radiator cap and the air bleed screw.
Fill the resivour all the way to the top of the neck.
Here is a point to the air bleed screw... (first image)...

[psk145]

Originally posted by BMWM3some
I dont think its very safe to have no fan and a supercharger do you? I heard it wasnt a very good idea.

Chris

he replaced the fan with an electric fan.

[banic]

Here, Blue on Black didn't work very well.

[BMWM3some]

Originally posted by psk145


he replaced the fan with an electric fan.

My bad i didnt read that, Im dumb lol

[bimmer95]

You've got to rev the motor a bit to get the air pushed out of their. The waterpump just doesn't move enough water at idle to get the air out. I've done almost a dozen E36 waterpump swaps so I've had a lot of practice bleeding E36 cooling systems

[PDX///M]

Alrighty then.... Ill give that a shot. Thanks guys... These boards Rock for getting help !!!