The other day I noticed a part on the shaft for the steering that goes from the steering wheel to the PS pump.
There's a black rubber guibo like thing between the U-joints. What is this for and would removing it and solidly attaching the 2 halves together be an improvement?
I already have m3 control arms and whole new tie-rods coming in the mail to fix the real problem but this is just a idea that I had.
CHANGE THIS PART NOW!! i replaced my tie rods, control arms, steering rack and a few other parts and this one turned out to be the culprit! you will notice the difference immediately!
oh nad you dont want to weld it, thats whats supposed to collapse in the event of a front end collision so the steering column doesnt fly into your chest....
Interesting, could you visibly see the part flexing/giving play? I was just in the garage checking everything and it all seems solid to me but ofcourse I can't reproduce driving conditions...
So you replaced #2 in this diagram? http://www.realoem.com/bmw/showparts...71&hg=32&fg=30
I was looking at my power steering the other day and noticed that guibo like tihng aswell. I had never heard anything about it and here is the thread about it.
For Sale, E36
92-95 Non M Airbag-$50
21.5# injectors(50k miles)-$60
Crystal Clear 4 door corners-$20
Grey 2dr C Pillars covers-$30
Grey Sunvisors-$30
Grey Sunroof Motor cover-$10
Grey Sunroof trim peice-#10
http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum...d.php?t=566229
except for the rack which I was going to do next (130k). I still have play in my wheel. Maybe this will make the difference ??
did this solve anyone elses problem? I'm in the same situation...
Bump! Anyone else done this and care to offer some words about the experience?
ex-1995 Cosmos M3 Coupé - deck spoiler / koni struts + shocks / x-brace / clears / unstaggered contours / yokohama avs es100 / alu thermostat housing / emp water pump / porterfield r4-s pads / gc rtab shims / bavauto ss brake lines / fdm / ie rsm plates / kicker sub + box + amp / sylvania silverstar lows / lamin-x / loc-tite'd opn / lots of refurbishing
Retired - mason strut brace / jl stealthboxes / tms chip + hfm / s&b filter + outerwears / ecis heatshield / alpine 9835 + aux
E36 ///M DIY & Tech - Door Handles / Underpanel / Coolant Hoses / Gear Ratios / 3.5" Intake / Lower Chain Tensioner / Threaded Starter / IAT Sensor / 24# Injectors
old one looked as good as the new one which had 130k miles on it. Easy enough to do though if you want to give it a shot.
Bob
Seems like its less likely to be the source of wheel play than the other usual fixes. Personally I'd do a front end refresh before looking at this.
I've replaced all tie rods, both lower control arms, both LCABs, and both sway bar links. The only things I haven't replaced are the steering rack ... and this guibo/coupler, which looks easy enough to do, but I'm hesitant that I'd throw my steering wheel off.
ex-1995 Cosmos M3 Coupé - deck spoiler / koni struts + shocks / x-brace / clears / unstaggered contours / yokohama avs es100 / alu thermostat housing / emp water pump / porterfield r4-s pads / gc rtab shims / bavauto ss brake lines / fdm / ie rsm plates / kicker sub + box + amp / sylvania silverstar lows / lamin-x / loc-tite'd opn / lots of refurbishing
Retired - mason strut brace / jl stealthboxes / tms chip + hfm / s&b filter + outerwears / ecis heatshield / alpine 9835 + aux
E36 ///M DIY & Tech - Door Handles / Underpanel / Coolant Hoses / Gear Ratios / 3.5" Intake / Lower Chain Tensioner / Threaded Starter / IAT Sensor / 24# Injectors
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