I'm still having overheating problems. Is there a way to tell if I cam getting good coolant ciculation through the system? I am wondering if perhaps by passages are clogged? Is there a way to flush the passages in a pressurized fashion? AARGH!
Thermostat and fanclutch been replaced?
Well if you properly blead the system and have a functioning t-stat and fan clutch I would check for a leaking head gasket. Usually the first signs of a head gasket going bad are overheating and slow coolant loss with no coolant leaking onto the ground.
1997 Byzanz M3 4 door 5 speed. (1 of 37 factory 5 speeds, 1 of 88 total produced)
TMS power pulleys, V1, E21 trans mounts w/AKG cups, AKG derlin shift tower bushing, 80/88* fan switch & fan delete, Borla XS dual in/out muffler, 4300K HID's in Euro housings, PowerFlex RTAB's, 17x8 ET15 Racing Dynamics RGR wheels, GC coil-overs 375F/475R, 25.5mm M-tech front swaybar, tint
feel the lower radiator hose? the one from the bottom of the radiator up to the t-stat should be warm.
I replaced one in a Jetta II (what a PITA!), only to have to do it all again when the damn thing wouldn't open! And yes, I DID put it in the right way.
9/2004 Chevrolet Suburban Z71, black, purchased March 2016, 270k miles.
6/99 740i Cosmos Schwartz M Sport, 214k miles, purchased May 2017
2001 740i OrientBlau M Sport, purchased March 2023
1984 MasterCraft Stars and Stripes, Blue/White, PCM Ford 351W, PowerSlot, 912 hours, purchased September 2012 (not a car )
4/99 323is/5. Titansilber, 211k miles. Straight body project.
past BMWs: 5/1994 325isa (Arktisgrau), 3/1997 328is/5 (cosmosschwartz), 9/1990 535i/5 (calypsorot), 9/1990 318i/5 (brillantrot) 7/93 325i/5 convertible (samoablau) 2/92 325i/5 cabriolet (lagunengruen).
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Thanks for the replies. Yep, I have replaced the water pump, thermostat, and checked the fan clutch. I also made sure to bleed the cooling system. The bad news is that when I drained the cooling system there was evidence of stop leak being used. I have been thinking head gasket as well. I did a leak down test and the results were great, 10-12% on all cylinders. Wouldn't this show a head gasket problem? Should I do a compression test as well? The hoses from all feel warm to the touch, but the radiator never heats up much. Should it? It was replaced by the PO In December.
Other symptoms:
*There is a smell of coolant in the car, but I checked the and there is no leaking from the heater core.
*I drove the other day and within 5 minutes the gauge started to climb up towards the red. I turned on the heat and it only blew cold air. I pushed the button that changes the air flow from outside to re-circulation, and immediately the air started blowing hot and the temperature gauge dropped back to normal. What the #($# does that mean.
*I have noticed more and more lately that I get a lot of white smoke from the exahust first thing in the morning. It clears up after a few minutes. Coolant getting burned?
Thanks again for the help. This problem is driving me crazy, and more importantly, not allowing me to drive my car (1991 318is by the way). Also, how hard is a new head gasket. I have been thinking about a new timing chain anyway(180,000 miles on the car) so maybe its time to dive in.
Any ideas?
Well if the heater in the car never gets warm it could be one of two issues. First it could be a stuck heater valve. This would trap air in the heater core since you drained the cooling system which would cause air pockets to slowly collect in the cooling system which would cause the over heat. Or the heater core itself is clogged and has air trapped in it which would cause the same problem.
1997 Byzanz M3 4 door 5 speed. (1 of 37 factory 5 speeds, 1 of 88 total produced)
TMS power pulleys, V1, E21 trans mounts w/AKG cups, AKG derlin shift tower bushing, 80/88* fan switch & fan delete, Borla XS dual in/out muffler, 4300K HID's in Euro housings, PowerFlex RTAB's, 17x8 ET15 Racing Dynamics RGR wheels, GC coil-overs 375F/475R, 25.5mm M-tech front swaybar, tint
Is there a way to test for this? Is the fix a new heater core?
open the bleeder valve a tad bit until u hear a hissing or something... you could have air bubble in ur system... i just did that and my tempt is now fine
A way to test and see if it is your heater core and/or valve. Find where the two hoses connect to the heater valve at the firewall in the engine compartment. Disconnect both from the heater valve and use a straight piece of heater hose coupling and connect the 2 hoses together. Then bleed the system again and if the car runs normal, problem is in the heating system and you can isolate it this way till you can get it fixed
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