no problem!!! always glad to help a fellow bmw enthusiast save an unnecessary ass-ripping from the $tealer!!!
Rob
Hmm maybe I should try to repair my old one and sell it.. maybe it did just go cold at the pins, though I thought I already tried that.
330ci ZHP + ZPP + ZCW - SilberGrau on Black Heated Leather - 6MT - Adaptive+Dynamic Xenons
328is ZPP - Black on Sand Leather - BBS RX - ZKWs
Subaru BG Outback 5MT - Blue/Gray - WRX Wheels + Altimax Arctics
I guess i should be glad i have the manual one as spartan as it looks.
One more thing guys. When I was having problems it was cold and my A/C kept kickin on and off and I couldn't stand the loss of power and gas so I unplugged the connector from the A/C condensor. At or around this time is when I noticed that the C stopped acting up, for what it's worth. Anyway, my baby is buried under a mountain of snow as we got hit HARD over the holidays. I hate winter. I can't drive my Mustang either :-(
I had the same problem with my 1999 E36 M3 COnvertible...
it was that pesky control plug in the back (blue/white).
So, I popped out the cc unit, taped it to hold the plug in the direction that makes the problem go away (described here http://www.bimmerforums.com/forum/sh...762#post867762), we'll see if it holds...
THanks for this thread guys! Saved me some bucks! and just in time for summer!
Thanks,
Benjamin Hirsch
Track Junky Extraordinaire
Hey, if I don't end up fixing this (the tape thing didn't work), where's the cheapest place to buy the whole climate control system box? Dealer today wanted $337 (yuck)
Thanks,
-Ben
So, here's the deal...
I ended up just heating up the pins that are part of the blue plug (26 of them I think) and letting the existing solder liquify, then let it cool again..., and that appears to have fixed my problem...
Seriously guys, thanks for this tip....
$3xx worth of tip
Thanks,
Benjamin Hirsch
Track Junky Extraordinaire
You are wasting your time with the tape. Fix it for good by heating up the pins. Mine is still working like a charm 6 months later.
I'm resurrecting this thread b/c I'm still having problems with the CC unit after all 20 pins on the board were soldered to mil specs by a friend at work. Since we were at work I wasn't able to bring him outside to the car and test to see where each pin was lacking, so he did them all for me.
What other way is there to diagnose exactly where the problem is? This is getting frustrating and I'm about to break down and spend the big bucks at the stealers.
fyi, mine is still working okay after I did those pins, so, not sure what to tell you man. There's a guy who's been posting about fixing other people's HVAC. Just search for HVAC and you'll find his post. GIve him a try.
-Ben
Thanks,
Benjamin Hirsch
Track Junky Extraordinaire
Go here and read first dont buy anything!!!!
http://www.bimmerforums.com/forum/sh...threadid=99432
My HVAC unit did the same thing as yours Stang. BMW will replace it for free as long as u pay for labor. I paid $35 for labor. Trick is , is your hvac missing pixels on the display? If it is they will replace it. If not punch the shit out of it to kill break some pixels before u end up calling BMW na and taking it to the dealer. I did that to my car and got my HVAC, oBC and speedometer cluster replaced all for $130 labor. I didnt purposely punch my HVAC to break the pixels but out of anger since the shit kept cutting on and off in this hot GA weather, but by punching it my whole display was gone except for the orange backlight. Good thing I did cuz BMW replaced the unit since it was missing pixels under their case by case recall! HA!
I just got my HVAC,OBC and Speedo cluster replaced on 6/19/03!
Please see the thread I posted above and email the lady in the first couple of postings.
[/b]
hehehe, that was good for a Friday afternoon chuckle, heheh, nice one Dean
Thanks,
Benjamin Hirsch
Track Junky Extraordinaire
My HVAC was doing the exact same thing (going off and on seemingly at will). I went through all the steps you guys did.
Used an elastic to hold the blue connector back...it still went out.
Reflowed the solder joints for the blue connector...it went out again after a week
Reflowed the plug connections along with surrounding resistors and such....went out 3 days later
Bought a 15watt grounded soldering iron with a nice tip. Tried to add solder to the pins and was surprised at how much solder they soaked in. reflowed and added solder to just about everything else on the board, including the little holes that pass through from one side of the board to another.......so far it has never gone back out.
At first the problem may seem like it's originating from the big blue connector in the back, but I've pretty much made up my mind that it's coming from components on the pc board that have broken solder joints.
I would recommend adding solder to anything that looks lacking. I would also suggest using some sort of magnifying glass cause it's really easy to pass up needy spots and cracks in the solder.
Don't give up!
Remember, if all else fails, break the display like Dean says and get it replaced for free.
Sorry I can't help you stang mine is still good since the resolder on the plug. Good luck
Guys,
Thanks for the info about the dealer but will they honor a recall if I didn't buy the car from them? I tried to fix it again today but seemed to push a little too hard on the blue connector b/c now all the lights are out on the display and nothing works (which is better for me than the damn thing going in and out). Do you think that based on the whole display being unlight that I can take advantage of the stealer??
euro4life,
I've never soldered before...what's the best typr of mag glass to use to find the cracks in the solder? What did you use to remove the orange coating?
Guys - I got to fix this so thanks for the help. If i can't ix it I'm gonna sell this car cause it drives me nuts and the hot weather is headed our way (finally). Thanks again!
It doesnt matter where you bought the car from. The dealer is getting there money from BMW NA Headquarters. They are buying the parts and reimbursing the dealer. All you have to pay is the labor at the dealer.Originally posted by Stang_ROTY
Guys,
Thanks for the info about the dealer but will they honor a recall if I didn't buy the car from them? I tried to fix it again today but seemed to push a little too hard on the blue connector b/c now all the lights are out on the display and nothing works (which is better for me than the damn thing going in and out). Do you think that based on the whole display being unlight that I can take advantage of the stealer??
euro4life,
I've never soldered before...what's the best typr of mag glass to use to find the cracks in the solder? What did you use to remove the orange coating?
Guys - I got to fix this so thanks for the help. If i can't ix it I'm gonna sell this car cause it drives me nuts and the hot weather is headed our way (finally). Thanks again!
[/b]
So what do I do? I just call them and make an appt. for service, and explain to them what happened? I'll do anything rather than spend that 300.00! I can't find a decent TV repair guy to tackle the job. At what point did BMW decide to handle this defect? I remember when this thread was started last year everyone was saying that BMW wasn't recalling the HVAC systems?
What does HVAC stand for? I've always referred to the thing as the Climate Control unit.
thx
98 328i - Minor mods include Eisenmann exhaust, Lowered Suspension, Hi-Flo Air Intake, 18" M5 Rims, 6-Disc Changer, subs, tinted windows, M3 shifter & pedals
Any magnifying glass that makes stuff big enough I guess. I did mine in our office and happened to find some old glasses in a drawer so I used those.
The redish-brown stuff seems to scrape right off with the hot soldering iron. Other than that I heard everclear (or any type of alcohol that isn't watered down at all) will work. I just didn't think pouring 190 proof alcohol on the HVAC sounded very safe.
All the soldering I did was in high school during electronics class so I didn't have much experience either. Make sure you use flux so the solder sticks and don't leave the iron touching the board for very long. You don't want to damage any components. The little resistors are soldered on both ends. You just can't see it until you scrape the coating off.
If you were local I could help you do it. If you really can't do it and you trust me. Send it my way and I'll fix it for $25. Another option would be to send it to "ttboyvanc" and he will completely strip the coating off, replace failing components, and resolder everything for $120.
Good Luck!
JB
Read the hyperlink I posted above all steps are in there. Email the bmw NA lady and she will have a rep call u to talk with you to setup an appt with your local dealer.Originally posted by Stang_ROTY
So what do I do? I just call them and make an appt. for service, and explain to them what happened? I'll do anything rather than spend that 300.00! I can't find a decent TV repair guy to tackle the job. At what point did BMW decide to handle this defect? I remember when this thread was started last year everyone was saying that BMW wasn't recalling the HVAC systems?
What does HVAC stand for? I've always referred to the thing as the Climate Control unit.
thx
[/b]
I emailed her asking if my situation will apply. How long before Ihear something? Should Ifollow up with another email?
98 328i - Minor mods include Eisenmann exhaust, Lowered Suspension, Hi-Flo Air Intake, 18" M5 Rims, 6-Disc Changer, subs, tinted windows, M3 shifter & pedals
Give it a couple of days. They dont work on the weekends.Originally posted by Stang_ROTY
I emailed her asking if my situation will apply. How long before Ihear something? Should Ifollow up with another email?
[/b]
Gentlemen,
I want to thank you all for the help on this. I now have an appt scheduled for Thurs morning thru BMWNA w/ my local $tealer. The people at BMWNA were amazingly responsive as they called me first thing Monday after I contacted them through email and phone. The $tealer is going to "take a look" at the car and give me a quote as to how much they will repair.
I Really have no problem with my in dash digital mileage display......it's my digital CC unit that's compltely off (no display-nothing working) at this point. Should I take the 'ol fist to the dash as Dean said and purposely break something or should I just let it ride and wait to see what the $tealer says?
thx for getting me this far!
98 328i - Minor mods include Eisenmann exhaust, Lowered Suspension, Hi-Flo Air Intake, 18" M5 Rims, 6-Disc Changer, subs, tinted windows, M3 shifter & pedals
Thanks for the offer. Let's wait to see what the $tealer says Thrus morning and I'll get back to you.
Originally posted by euro4life
Any magnifying glass that makes stuff big enough I guess. I did mine in our office and happened to find some old glasses in a drawer so I used those.
The redish-brown stuff seems to scrape right off with the hot soldering iron. Other than that I heard everclear (or any type of alcohol that isn't watered down at all) will work. I just didn't think pouring 190 proof alcohol on the HVAC sounded very safe.
All the soldering I did was in high school during electronics class so I didn't have much experience either. Make sure you use flux so the solder sticks and don't leave the iron touching the board for very long. You don't want to damage any components. The little resistors are soldered on both ends. You just can't see it until you scrape the coating off.
If you were local I could help you do it. If you really can't do it and you trust me. Send it my way and I'll fix it for $25. Another option would be to send it to "ttboyvanc" and he will completely strip the coating off, replace failing components, and resolder everything for $120.
Good Luck!
JB
Good luck with the dealer. Let us know how it go.
You probably visited these links already but just in case..
DIY Fix
Thread about CCU problem
I replaced the cap on mine as my post here.
Thanks,
I'll let you know what happends tomorrow
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