Ok guys, so I had my local shop install a new set of Bilstein PSS-9 coilovers on my car about a month or two ago. When they put them on they said that my wheels (18x8.5" 235/40) would cause rubbing if they dropped the car any lower, so they are set at a conservative height. Well, I disagree and would like to drop the rear a bit (I'm rolling the fenders as well, just in case). Problem is, I don't want to spend a lot of money to have the shop readjust them, so I'm going to do it myself.
Just wondering, what is involved in this process. From what I've gathered, I have to remove the rear shocks and springs and then adjust the perches. Then reinstall everything and hope that the height works out to what I want. This seems like a pretty hit or miss strategy for adjusting ride height and could be very tedious and time consuming.
So, anyway, what do you guys think? Is it a pain in the ass to get right? Should I bite the bullet and take it to the shop? Is it really not as bad as it sounds? Any input is appreciated.
- Josh -
ttt
- Josh -
Nobody has anything to say? What should I do guys?
- Josh -
didnt they come with instructions? contact bilstein, i'm sure they can send you something.
Yeah they did come with instructions, but I think my mechanic took them. I'm not really looking for a detailed write-up or anything. I just want to know how much of a pain it is to do this and how hard it is to get it right.
- Josh -
I guess I'm 14 years too late, but did you ever figure out an easier way to adjust the rears? Or did anyone else who sees this? I just installed the B14s on my E36 and I accidentally set the fronts a lot lower than the rears and now need to lower the rears. Somehow thought they were supposed to be adjustable while on the car (but I guess that was wrong??) and really don't want to disassemble everything if I can avoid it
Google will show you a generic write up/video or two for basic instruction on adjustment. Should've gotten some wrenches with your setup to use for the process. You'll need a floor jack, time, and a tape measure to do it correctly. Just make sure you're even on threads for each side when adjusting.
It's a small pain in the *ss but not too bad.
Jack it up
remove wheel
remove rear suspension bolt
Remove spring
Make adjustment
reassemble, go around the block, pull back in and check again. I just did this. I have an impact gun to remove wheels. One jack under the subframe gets both wheels up. I only put 3 lugs on while driving around the block (Just to set the suspension). But yes, be prepared and plan on doing it 2-3 times. Knowing that ahead of time eases the pain. Once done, torque the suspension bolt and lugs. If you think its a one time adjustment you will get frustrated. If it is, then your ahead of the game.
Aren't Bilstein's adjustable independent of preload? You should be able to spin the adjuster on the spring perch without removing the lower shock bolt.
The difficulty in adjusting the rears is dependent on the spring length, but most street cars run springs long enough to be under some compression when installed. So, most likely, removal of the lower shock bolt is needed to remove the compression and be able to turn the adjuster. The process as described by cashmancab above will work, but I've found that between adjustments you'll get the car to settle pretty well by pushing on the corner a few times and rolling the car a few feet. Then, a final height check after a drive is a good thing. Also, ideally, you'd check heights with a driver in the seat. If not, depending on spring rate, you'll want the left side 1/8" or so higher. That's a nit pick in the scheme of things.
With my car, its low enough that the rear spring is still under tension. On Pss9's the adjuster is on the bottom and access is very difficult (This is the downside of Pss9's) . To access it you really have to remove the spring. Therefore, you need to remove the shock bolt to remove the spring, to access the adjuster.
Do the front have to come apart to adjust the height? Or are they height adjustable without taking the mall apart? PSS9 Specific
https://productdesk.cart.bilsteinus....M4-Y555A00.pdf
The instructions are pretty minimal. But these front struts adjust height by adjusting the lower spring perch. The struts do not need to be removed from the car to adjust the height.
However, the rear adjusters are buried in the rear wishbones, so you’ll need to remove the springs to adjust them. The KWs are nice because the spring adjuster is at the top of the spring, so you can adjust them without removal.
-rb
You can get rear lower spring perches where the adjustment screw is accessed from underneath the control arm. Much easier — you can even adjust them with the wheel still in place.
H&R makes this style (https://www.turnermotorsport.com/p-3...-e36-3-series/) and so does Rogue Engineering (https://www.rogueengineering.com/Rog...Pair_p_76.html), although the RE perch is also articulated and therefore pricey.
Neil
That’s very interesting.
I’m running PSS9’s since 2009 and adjusted the rears exactly twice. Don’t know what Bilstein had in mind with putting the adjusters inside the wishbone instead of simply on top of the spring, where it is in eyesight and readily adjustable.
The wishbone has this cavity the perch sits in. Even with the wrenches (and the old style hooks suck) it’s impossible to get them on the adjuster rings.
These H&R ones might be perfect solution.
PS ‘even’ on the PSS9’s ride height is set by changing spring preload.
1998 BMW M3 3.2 Cabrio • Alpinweiß III on Schwarz • German spec • 1 of 12
SMG • SRA • PDC • AUC • OBC • GSM • HK • UURS • IHKA • FGR • MFL
IG: https://www.instagram.com/iflok/
Took me 3 on one side and 4 on the other. I went for balance instead of looks. Still lower than stock. Did the rears first because of the aforementioned difficulty with the adjustment down in the perch. I also disconnected the sway bar..
Only just noticed the RE ones. That articulation is brilliant. I want my rear a bit higher, but not enough thread left and it would tilt the spring dangerously.
1998 BMW M3 3.2 Cabrio • Alpinweiß III on Schwarz • German spec • 1 of 12
SMG • SRA • PDC • AUC • OBC • GSM • HK • UURS • IHKA • FGR • MFL
IG: https://www.instagram.com/iflok/
Yeah, I have them and they're very nice. The effective range of height adjustment is a bit less than with conventional barrel adjusters, because if the perch angulates too much at full droop it'll start coming into contact with stuff. Nothing you can't work around though.
Neil
Just too bad I would need to import them which means getting hung out to dry by custom dusties and sales tax. I'm good for now, but will keep in mind.
1998 BMW M3 3.2 Cabrio • Alpinweiß III on Schwarz • German spec • 1 of 12
SMG • SRA • PDC • AUC • OBC • GSM • HK • UURS • IHKA • FGR • MFL
IG: https://www.instagram.com/iflok/
Ah, I hadn't paid attention to where you're located. The H&R would of course be easy for you, since they're German.
Funny thing about customs duty. I've bought a number of car parts from Europe, some for my Golf R, some for the M3, and had them shipped to the USA — and I've never been charged any duty for them. Maybe customs don't bother under some $ amount? Of course for you there's the VAT authorities, and I'm sure they'll track you down for the last cent!
Neil
1998 BMW M3 3.2 Cabrio • Alpinweiß III on Schwarz • German spec • 1 of 12
SMG • SRA • PDC • AUC • OBC • GSM • HK • UURS • IHKA • FGR • MFL
IG: https://www.instagram.com/iflok/
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