Page 2 of 49 FirstFirst 12345678910111227 ... LastLast
Results 26 to 50 of 1213

Thread: Stick rests at 5th gear when cold

  1. #26
    Join Date
    Apr 2001
    Location
    Los Angeles
    Posts
    662
    I"ve had this exact same issue for a while now. I am just living with it as it doesn't appear too often. Actually since I moved to LA I don't recall it happening that much. Although I've always wondered what this might be. I think there were a few threads on this, but never much discussion, glad to see I wasn't nuts :-D

  2. #27
    Join Date
    Mar 2002
    Location
    Newington, Ct
    Posts
    13,006
    My Cars
    '99 Alpine White M3
    Is anybody as surprised as I am how widespread this seems to be? And I bet its happened to more people than even indicated here. I wonder why we havent heard about it as much as, say, we've heard about the plastic impellor blades on the '95 M3s, or the RSMs that seem to effect so many people, etc. I bet its as common as those issues, but, because the 'problem' or troubling symptom disappears just 10 minutes after starting the car, nobody pays attention to it, hence its not so wide spread reported. But nevertheless, a transmission that gives up the ghost in one of its gate definition springs making the gate disappear for several minutes, increasing greatly the liklihood of missed shifts, including the dreaded 'Expensive Shift', is a serious problem, that people should be reporting.

    There was one comment here that somebody's dealer had begun diagnosis of the issue while the warranty was still in effect, but didnt react until it expired, and now wants to charge for the tranny replacement. I think this is unconscionable, and they shoudl not get away with it. So long as the problem was brought to their attention while the warranty was still in effect, they are obliged to fix the item. Its not your fault they dallied the warranty away. You did your part by reporting it in time. They owe you the transmission free and clear.

    As for the rest of us, lets persue with our dealers and publish the results here for all to read. Im calling my dealer tomorrow to start the ball rolling. Hopefully, they will be familiar with the problem, as they were when my rear shock tower tops started tearing, and know that a new tranny is the standard relief given.
    ___________________
    Paul E
    '11 AW 135i ; Sold: '99 White M3 81k mi; Dinan SC kit, 6"/3.48" sc pulleys, Aftercooler: 10.5 psi-367 SAE rwhp/304 rwftlbs @80 degrees ambient (still with OBDII manifold & stock cats); DynoTuning by Nick G (techniquetuning.com); Speed Shop: Imported Cars of Stamford; AA-Aquamist Water Injection, exhaust, clutch; Fikse FM-10s; Koni Suspension; Stealthboxes

    http://s11.photobucket.com/albums/a173/boostm3/

  3. #28
    Join Date
    Aug 2002
    Location
    West Texas
    Posts
    872
    My Cars
    many...
    Is there anyone out there that has experience with opening up the tranny and fixing it themselves? Seems like a drastic measure to replace a tranny when it just needs a spring replaced.:
    Chuck Brazeau
    www.BrazeauRacing.com

    1995 BMW M3 | 2003 BMW 330i ZHP | 2002 Range Rover 4.6
    2008 Ducati 1098 | 2002 Ducati 748s | 2001 Ducati 900SSie | 2008 Honda CBR600RR | 2002 Yamaha Roadstar Warrior

  4. #29
    Join Date
    May 2002
    Location
    NH
    Posts
    255
    My Cars
    98 M3 Sedan, '97 540i, '02 Allroad
    Seems odd to me that there is no external adjustment.

    Driven VW's for the past ten plus years thay have adjustable spring tension and detents. The adjuster is sitting on top of the transmission and can be turned by hand.

    Isn't ZF suppose to be one of the best in the world for transmissions?

    This is pretty darn annoying.

    Love the M3. Not certain I would buy another one. Between an attempted car jacking, oil pump nuts, money shifts, funky fifth gear gate thing....

  5. #30
    Join Date
    Oct 2001
    Location
    New Jersey
    Posts
    278
    LUBE IT UP with more of the crap they gave u...happened to my friends m3

  6. #31
    Join Date
    Jul 2002
    Location
    Cary, NC
    Posts
    633
    My Cars
    98M3C
    Originally posted by Bernman
    I'm thinking that either 13 or 15 is the part that actually sticks though.
    Guys, I don't have this problem....at least it's not obvious to me, but I have completely missed 3rd and ended up in 5th twice and both times I'm sure the driver in the other car had a BIG GRIN as he pulled away so maybe I have it to some degree and just haven't noticed and I can sympathize with your frustration.

    I think Bernman is right and after studying the ETK drawing (same one from R.Stygar that Bernman posted above) I believe it's specifically part 13 (locking pin) that's the culprit. I think this happens because this pin either wears abnormally since, when 5th is engaged, it is subject to stress because it's been pressed into it's housing and held there by the roller (6) mounted on the selector cam (5)...or it's getting contamination around and behind it and hangs up, maybe both.

    I've counted 10 of you on this post that say the problem goes away once the engine/transmission is warmed up. No one seems to have this problem as a permanent ailment...right?

    So, how about you guys trying something. Tomorrow or the day after, after you've driven your cars to work or wherever, try this when you get where you're going:
    Park the car and rapidly move the shift lever into 5th gate 10 times, 20, times, hell...try it 100 times while it's still hot. I'm just quessing here but it could be that having this locking pin (13) held against the spring lets metal shavings and other debris into the hole this pin rides in and also into cavity behind the pin where the spring is. Exercising the mechanism while hot might just force the offending crud out of there. There are several other possibilities, one being that the pin or it's mounting hole wears and allows the roller to fall off the back edge of the pin opposite where the bevel is cut, trapping the roller there until things get warm. Don't know?

    But think about this....none of you have have said you have the problem with the reverse gate which would be pin 15. Well, that's because you don't drive around town in reverse and allow wear on this one or have crud getting into it the same way as the one for 5th gear.

    Maybe I'm full of crap but what have you got to lose?
    BTW....if anyone breaks anything after trying the exercise above, it wasn't my fault...OK? Try it out and let us know what happens.
    Mike
    98M3C with more stuff than my wife needs to know about :12:


  7. #32
    Join Date
    May 2002
    Location
    NH
    Posts
    255
    My Cars
    98 M3 Sedan, '97 540i, '02 Allroad
    I have tried moving the shifter in the gate (a cazillion times ok maybe like 30-50) to see if anything frees up. It has a sort of sticky grinding feel so it is plausible some crud could be effecting it. Thought about lubricating the shifter ball as well as I just put the SSK in. It could be the shifter ball as that will be effected by the heat of the exhaust.

    Guess its something else I will be living with for now.

  8. #33
    Join Date
    Jul 2002
    Location
    Cary, NC
    Posts
    633
    My Cars
    98M3C
    Originally posted by Jgent
    Thought about lubricating the shifter ball as well as I just put the SSK in. It could be the shifter ball as that will be effected by the heat of the exhaust.
    I've thought about the short shifter connection but it's seems counter-intuitive. The reason a short shifter works is that the lever length below the ball is increased in ratio to the length above the ball. With a longer beneath-the-ball length, spring 4 has easier work to do (more leverage) when pushing against the ball/cup friction so I don't get the relationship to SSK's.

    In looking at the pic again, sealing cover (11) is held in place by locking ring (10) which looks like a grip clip. Without having a transmission to look at I'm guessing that these two parts are accessable from outside of the transmission.....probably necessary to install the locking pin/spring/cap/locking ring after the transmission housing is sealed. Their location would be top-right side of the transmission and you could only get at them with the transmission dropped or removed. Can anyone verify?
    Mike
    98M3C with more stuff than my wife needs to know about :12:


  9. #34
    Join Date
    Mar 2001
    Location
    Chester County PA
    Posts
    1,181
    My Cars
    2003 M5
    Originally posted by 98///M-DROPTOP


    I've counted 10 of you on this post that say the problem goes away once the engine/transmission is warmed up. No one seems to have this problem as a permanent ailment...right?


    Mine happens about 80% of the time now and it does not matter if the car is cold or warm. Just happens.
    Joe

  10. #35
    Join Date
    Mar 2002
    Location
    Newington, Ct
    Posts
    13,006
    My Cars
    '99 Alpine White M3
    >>Park the car and rapidly move the shift lever into 5th gate 10 times, 20, times, hell...try it 100 times while it's still hot. I'm just quessing here but it could be that having this locking pin (13) held against the spring lets metal shavings and other debris into the hole this pin rides in and also into cavity behind the pin where the spring is<<

    Ive done this several times. But it doesnt change things.


    >>It has a sort of sticky grinding feel <<

    Exactly. ONce its warmed up, the fifth gear gate detente comes back. But, if you push it over in neutral underneath fifth gear, the lever will stay there unless you nudge it back. And it does have a friction, grinding feel to it. Definitely feels like something has warn. I dont see how a SSK could contribute to this at all. After all, its not changing anything within the transmission...its just moving a shorter lever to change gears. I sure hope the dealer doesnt pull that on me. Since it only happens when cold, I made an appointment to leave it there next monday evening, for a Tuesday appointment. They'll see on tuesday what the problem is. My service writer had not heard of this problem yet, unfortunately. Hopefully, when they contact their srvc rep at BMW, he will be familiar with it!
    ___________________
    Paul E
    '11 AW 135i ; Sold: '99 White M3 81k mi; Dinan SC kit, 6"/3.48" sc pulleys, Aftercooler: 10.5 psi-367 SAE rwhp/304 rwftlbs @80 degrees ambient (still with OBDII manifold & stock cats); DynoTuning by Nick G (techniquetuning.com); Speed Shop: Imported Cars of Stamford; AA-Aquamist Water Injection, exhaust, clutch; Fikse FM-10s; Koni Suspension; Stealthboxes

    http://s11.photobucket.com/albums/a173/boostm3/

  11. #36
    Join Date
    Jul 2002
    Location
    Cary, NC
    Posts
    633
    My Cars
    98M3C
    Jgent: "I have tried moving the shifter in the gate (a cazillion times ok maybe like 30-50) to see if anything frees up"
    paule: "Ive done this several times. But it doesnt change things.

    Ok..time for theory #2: It's not locking pin 13 causing the problem, it's locking pin 17. Take a look at the drawing again. Pin 17 appears to have a roller built into the end of it and this roller engages into one of two radiused cuts in the selector shaft (1) where the shaft has splines. Since this roller is mounted parallel to the shaft's front to rear motion it appears to provide the detent when the shaft is either in gears R/1/3/5 and the other cut is for gears 2/4. When in neutral I guess the roller rides on the high area between the two?? Maybe this roller is binding off the selector shaft in the neutral position, enough so that spring 4 can't overcome the bind. So instead of moving the shift lever against pin 13 by just pressing it into the 5th gate you could try 3rd-to-4th-to-5th when cold before starting off. If that frees things up the the culprit is pin 17. Why would ZF put a roller on a shaft that causes the roller to "drag" against the shaft rotation anyway? Seems to me this pin should have a round ball-type roller on it to handle linear movement and rotation??
    Mike
    98M3C with more stuff than my wife needs to know about :12:


  12. #37
    Join Date
    Oct 2001
    Location
    Mountain View, CA
    Posts
    722
    My Cars
    2004 ///M3 SG/IR/SMG
    paul e,

    Just wanted to reiterate for you that I had this problem well before installing my SSK. Good luck!

    I'm hoping that I can avoid 5th while the tranny's cold for long enough for me to afford the Euro 6spd & diff, too. Sigh. If I don't misshift because of it first.

    I agree that this problem seems so widespread that it's right up there with RSMs, radiator necks, water impellers, and the money-shift-makers. Just nobody seems to talk about it until the weather gets cold, and there's probably a bunch of people who don't notice, because they stay in 5th long enough for the tranny to warm up!

  13. #38
    Join Date
    May 2002
    Location
    NH
    Posts
    255
    My Cars
    98 M3 Sedan, '97 540i, '02 Allroad
    I hadn't really noticed until I read this thread and connected the fact that I was consistantly missing a 4th to 3rd shift (ended up in 5th instead) everytime I went around a corner on the way to work in the morning recently. Figure mornings have really cooled off around here now.

  14. #39
    Join Date
    Jul 2002
    Location
    Cary, NC
    Posts
    633
    My Cars
    98M3C
    Originally posted by 98///M-DROPTOP


    Ok..time for theory #2:
    Just thought through this again....no way pin 17 can cause the problem. Man, it's hard to pay attention at work and think about things like this too! So, back to theory #1.... pin 13 is staying pressed into it's mounting hole (in the transmission case?) until the transmission warms up.... any more ideas why?
    Mike
    98M3C with more stuff than my wife needs to know about :12:


  15. #40
    Join Date
    Mar 2002
    Location
    Newington, Ct
    Posts
    13,006
    My Cars
    '99 Alpine White M3
    Just thought through this again....no way pin 17 can cause the problem. Man, it's hard to pay attention at work and think about things like this too!
    Mike, so to hell with work! Concentrate on this instead.... Alot more of us will be happy then your dumb customers at work:

    Just kidding...sortof. Anyway, youre good to be able to decipher from that sketch whats going on with the transmission. I made an appt for next monday evening when I'll drop it off, so that by tues morn when they start work on it, it will be cold. I checked today, and the third-fifth gate comes back about 2 miles before I reach the dealership. It comes back exactly after driving 15 minutes, and the dealer is like 20 minutes away!

    The way I see it , here are the possibilities.
    1) They notice the problem, say I need a new tranny, but because of the adjustable clutch stop and the shorter shift lever , the tranny warranty is void.

    2) They notice the issue, but dont think its a problem that needs attention, since when it warms up it comes back. They say that they'll change the fluid and see if that makes any difference but beyond that there's nothing they can/will do.

    3) They notice the problem, say the remedy is replacement with rebuild, and will cover it under warranty.

    Ok. Clearly, number 3 is the only one I'll be content with. If they take the number 1 approach, since we seem to all feel its a lousy spring and pin that is the likely culprit, probably dollar parts or something like that, wouldnt I be better off finding an independant who knows these transmissions and seeing if he would open it up to replace the inexpensive parts? I mean, wouldnt that cost like maybe 4 hrs labor, vs a rebuild tranny with labor? The parts approach might cost like $400, whereas the replacement would cost like $4000 Id guess. I bet the dealer wouldnt be willing to take it apart like an independant might.

    If they use the number 2 approach, then I throw up my hands and say they have no idea what they are doing and never go back to them for serious work again.

    Suggestions/comments ??
    ___________________
    Paul E
    '11 AW 135i ; Sold: '99 White M3 81k mi; Dinan SC kit, 6"/3.48" sc pulleys, Aftercooler: 10.5 psi-367 SAE rwhp/304 rwftlbs @80 degrees ambient (still with OBDII manifold & stock cats); DynoTuning by Nick G (techniquetuning.com); Speed Shop: Imported Cars of Stamford; AA-Aquamist Water Injection, exhaust, clutch; Fikse FM-10s; Koni Suspension; Stealthboxes

    http://s11.photobucket.com/albums/a173/boostm3/

  16. #41
    Join Date
    Jul 2002
    Location
    Dublin, OH
    Posts
    2,556
    My Cars
    BMW-Less
    Just had my Tranny replaced under CPO last Thursday and warranty ran out last Saturday so the dealer really hooked me up. I did not notice the same problem, but it seems much more stiff going into 5th now and I am almost worried that I will money shift it from 4th to 3rd. Getting into gears now is so much more smooth.

    For all those with clutch stops and SSK, can't you just spend the hour and return the car to stock? The clutch stop takes a whole 20 seconds to swap out. I was so paranoid that I even rebaffled & resnorkled the airbox.

    The new tranny feels great and it is like a new car. Good luck everyone.

  17. #42
    Join Date
    Mar 2002
    Location
    Newington, Ct
    Posts
    13,006
    My Cars
    '99 Alpine White M3
    >>For all those with clutch stops and SSK, can't you just spend the hour and return the car to stock<<

    Ok , I'll put back my stock clutch stop. But Im leaving the ssk. AFter all, its a stock shift lever... from an MZ3, granted, but.... Besides they may not even notice. But on principle I have a problem if theyd try and shirk their duties this way. I mean there's no way a slightly shorter shift lever should have any effect on whats going on inside the transmission with that spring. Its like saying my light bulb burnt out after 1 hr because I changed the knob which turns it on. I just cant accept it. Especially when we have cases on this board where people have the same problem with completely stock parts. I'll print out this thread and give it to them if I have to.
    ___________________
    Paul E
    '11 AW 135i ; Sold: '99 White M3 81k mi; Dinan SC kit, 6"/3.48" sc pulleys, Aftercooler: 10.5 psi-367 SAE rwhp/304 rwftlbs @80 degrees ambient (still with OBDII manifold & stock cats); DynoTuning by Nick G (techniquetuning.com); Speed Shop: Imported Cars of Stamford; AA-Aquamist Water Injection, exhaust, clutch; Fikse FM-10s; Koni Suspension; Stealthboxes

    http://s11.photobucket.com/albums/a173/boostm3/

  18. #43
    Join Date
    Jul 2002
    Location
    Cary, NC
    Posts
    633
    My Cars
    98M3C
    Originally posted by paul e


    If they take the number 1 approach, since we seem to all feel its a lousy spring and pin that is the likely culprit, probably dollar parts or something like that, wouldnt I be better off finding an independant who knows these transmissions and seeing if he would open it up to replace the inexpensive parts? I mean, wouldnt that cost like maybe 4 hrs labor, vs a rebuild tranny with labor? The parts approach might cost like $400, whereas the replacement would cost like $4000 Id guess. I bet the dealer wouldnt be willing to take it apart like an independant might.

    Suggestions/comments ??
    Paul, while the pin and spring might be a few dollars the real problem might be that the pin has worn into it's mounting hole, which I suppose is in the transmission case. If that's true and the pin no longer slides straight into it's hole but can wander off-angle slightly and get trapped....well I suspect a transmission case replacement will be a few bucks more The problem with working this out by looking at the drawing and not having parts in hand is that none of us really knows why the problem exists, we're all Easter egging it.

    Hopefully your dealer will come through. If they take the tough line and say they can't fix what they can't experience, offer to leave the car overnight and you take a loaner home for free, then let the car sit out at the dealer and be stone cold the next morning when you show up again for the test drive with the tech. I done this 3 times with my dealer on cold-related drivability problems, once for a surging problem (got new fuel pressure regulator) and twice for shifting/clutch problems (got new slave and master cylinders and 2 ATF fluid changes).....and got to drive a 528, a 330i, and an X5 for the night and the next day took them to work too:
    Mike
    98M3C with more stuff than my wife needs to know about :12:


  19. #44
    Join Date
    Mar 2002
    Location
    Newington, Ct
    Posts
    13,006
    My Cars
    '99 Alpine White M3
    >>Hopefully your dealer will come through. If they take the tough line and say they can't fix what they can't experience, offer to leave the car overnight and you take a loaner home for free, then let the car sit out at the dealer and be stone cold the next morning when you show up again for the test drive with the tech.<<

    Thanks Mike. The srvc writer was thoughtful enough to suggest to me I leave it there next monday evening, so that when they look at it tues morn, itll be cold, and they can see first hand what the issue is themselves. Then, we'll see if they step up to the plate. BTW, mike do we have any idea what having the car warmed up for 15 minutes has to do with the detente magically coming back into place? Thats whats puzzling me the most. Once it comes back, its fine. No issue. Sure its a little grindy or sticky, but it makes no difference, and all gears are easily found. Frankly, even when its cold, I can hit all gears, so I wonder how big an issue it really is. For driveability, I almost think its a non issue. But my fear is that it might grow worse and effect the shifting all the time, and I dont want to find that out after the warranty is over. So I guess its a big mystery why warming it up gives us back the gate into fifth gear. Very weird.
    ___________________
    Paul E
    '11 AW 135i ; Sold: '99 White M3 81k mi; Dinan SC kit, 6"/3.48" sc pulleys, Aftercooler: 10.5 psi-367 SAE rwhp/304 rwftlbs @80 degrees ambient (still with OBDII manifold & stock cats); DynoTuning by Nick G (techniquetuning.com); Speed Shop: Imported Cars of Stamford; AA-Aquamist Water Injection, exhaust, clutch; Fikse FM-10s; Koni Suspension; Stealthboxes

    http://s11.photobucket.com/albums/a173/boostm3/

  20. #45
    Join Date
    Jan 2002
    Location
    NY
    Posts
    5,131
    My Cars
    2003 AW/Black M3
    Originally posted by paul e
    After reading these descriptions, it sounds very similar to what Ive got. Its been a little sticky over on the fifth gear side of neutral, but never caused a problem, as a slight nudge would always kick it back to its centered position
    Well what do ya know...I've got the same issue it seems... : This is a big concern to me...while my car is under CPO still, I hope this isn't an issue that affects anything with driving. At the moment, it's only as described above, and I only just looked for this tonight to see if mine was affected. I wonder if all e36's have this problem, but that it's simply not something that people notice. Hell, when it's cold in the morning and i drive myself to the station, I don't get out of 3 or 4th gear. I have no reason to push the shifter that way. So who knows when or if I ever would have noticed this.



    Paul, I'm very curious to know what comp. says to you next week, please let me know ASAP. This might alter my future plans....:
    <font face="century gothic"><b><font size="2">2003 Alpine White M3...</font></b>
    <font face="century gothic"><b><font size="1"></font></b><br />
    The infamous "Paul E." and I after some detailing...

  21. #46
    Join Date
    Mar 2002
    Location
    Newington, Ct
    Posts
    13,006
    My Cars
    '99 Alpine White M3
    You know, this gets worse by the minute. It almost seems like EVERYBODY has it! And those that dont really do only they havent checked lately.

    >>Hell, when it's cold in the morning and i drive myself to the station, I don't get out of 3 or 4th gear. I have no reason to push the shifter that way. So who knows when or if I ever would have noticed this. <<

    Ok chris, tomorrow morning, start the car and let it idle. Then, take the shifter and push it all the way to the right hard a couple of times. Or just do a couple of in place shifts to fifth and see if you lose teh detente. If you dont now, you sure will before too long. I cant tell you exactly how much time lapsed between when I first noticed the sticky fifth gear stop, and I lost it completely, but it could have been several months. But from those on the board here, it sure sounds like everybody who develops the sticky detente eventually looses it when cold. Quite honestly, if it stayed like this forever I dont think its that big a deal... Before it warms up, I just use a slightly different shift motion to find third. When its warm, only 15 minutes later, its completely back and I use the old shift motion. Big deal. The problem is that who knows what the next stage in this saga will be. First is the sticky detente. Second is you lose the detente when cold. Whats the Third saga? Fourth? Later?
    ___________________
    Paul E
    '11 AW 135i ; Sold: '99 White M3 81k mi; Dinan SC kit, 6"/3.48" sc pulleys, Aftercooler: 10.5 psi-367 SAE rwhp/304 rwftlbs @80 degrees ambient (still with OBDII manifold & stock cats); DynoTuning by Nick G (techniquetuning.com); Speed Shop: Imported Cars of Stamford; AA-Aquamist Water Injection, exhaust, clutch; Fikse FM-10s; Koni Suspension; Stealthboxes

    http://s11.photobucket.com/albums/a173/boostm3/

  22. #47
    Join Date
    Jan 2002
    Location
    NY
    Posts
    5,131
    My Cars
    2003 AW/Black M3
    Originally posted by paul e
    Before it warms up, I just use a slightly different shift motion to find third. When its warm, only 15 minutes later, its completely back and I use the old shift motion. Big deal. The problem is that who knows what the next stage in this saga will be. First is the sticky detente. Second is you lose the detente when cold. Whats the Third saga? Fourth? Later?
    This is the part I'm confused about! What different shift motion are you referring to and why is it necessary...? Also, define detente for me if you would... Are you refering to the "slot" which allows you to engage a gear?
    <font face="century gothic"><b><font size="2">2003 Alpine White M3...</font></b>
    <font face="century gothic"><b><font size="1"></font></b><br />
    The infamous "Paul E." and I after some detailing...

  23. #48
    Join Date
    Jul 2002
    Location
    Cary, NC
    Posts
    633
    My Cars
    98M3C
    Originally posted by paul e
    >> BTW, mike do we have any idea what having the car warmed up for 15 minutes has to do with the detente magically coming back into place? Thats whats puzzling me the most. Once it comes back, its fine. No issue.
    Well, just graphical conjecture since I can't really examine anything but the ETK pics...and even if I could I might not recognize the fault. However, under x4 "graphics navigation" some interesting details comes out on the parts, ie:
    -spring 14 is drawn in bold compared to spring 12. That's why the reverse gate is so much harder to get into...spring 14 is a heavy duty mother. Is spring 12 getting fatigued from use or is just too weak to hold up under the repeated use of 5th gear?
    -both pins 13 and 15 appear to have holes in the center of their tips, maybe to catch the roller (6) or maybe to allow ATF to circulate into the spring, maybe both. If the roller blocks the hole what happens to the fluid inside that can't circulate? On a long trip, in 5th, hot engine, hot transmission fluid, and these springs/pins are on the side where the headers/downpipes are? Does this area just get gummed up and traps the pin but when warmed up releases it?
    -the lock rings (10) look like circlips except their tips curl inward into their circumference. I assume this is so they can be compressed inward to fit into a hole and then released to expand and trap the sealing cover (11) in place. If my assumption is right then these pins and springs can be replaced from outside the transmission.
    -the sealing cover have what appears to be a guide pin extending out from it's center that keeps the spring straight. It's possible the spring binds off on this guide pin or this arangement just traps contaminant better. Or this guide pin ensures the spring aims straight forward into the end of the pin...which might have a recess in it to hold the other end of the spring.
    -the view of the front transmission housing (pic below) shows two interesting parts (6 and 7, both "slide bearings") that are most likely associated with the locking pin mechanisms. The transmission case material is probably just too soft to fit thtese pins/springs into and I suspect that these slide bearings fit into holes in the case, then the pins/springs/sealing covers/lock rings follow them into the holes in that order. The puzzling thing about the slide bearing parts is that there are two sizes and qty 2 of each but only 3 pin/spring arrangements. Don't know what the other one is.
    All that said, I don't really know what's wrong but still suspect the problem can be fixed with the transmission dropped down.
    Attached Images Attached Images
    Mike
    98M3C with more stuff than my wife needs to know about :12:


  24. #49
    Join Date
    Jul 2002
    Location
    Cary, NC
    Posts
    633
    My Cars
    98M3C
    oops...forgot the other one:
    Attached Images Attached Images
    Mike
    98M3C with more stuff than my wife needs to know about :12:


  25. #50
    Join Date
    Mar 2002
    Location
    Newington, Ct
    Posts
    13,006
    My Cars
    '99 Alpine White M3
    Chris,
    >>This is the part I'm confused about! What different shift motion are you referring to and why is it necessary<<

    Ok... First, 'detente' is the word that describes the subtle (in the case of fifth gear) or not so subtle (in the case of reverse) stop that you feel when you move the shift lever across the neutral plane, looking for the gear gates. Think how you shift into third now. Whether youre aware of it or not, you use the detente for the fifth gear gate to guide you into third. YOu subtley feel the guide or stop there, and go up to the left of it for third. The special motion Im talking about is imagine if that guide stop were totally absent, as when you first start off in the morning, or whenever the car's cold. How would you find third? So I kind of turn my palm facing forward, to carefully slip it into third. See, without that guide there, its pretty easy to find first, or because we want to protect the MOney shift at all costs, fifth. All I meant is that without the detente, stop, guide, or what ever you want to call it, you need another way to feel third gear. ONce you get used to it, though, its no biggie. Again, there are 2 detentes you feel, as you take the shift lever in neutral, and move all the way to the left, past the reverse detente, and all the way to the right, past the fifth detente. This should explain it, I hope :--)
    ___________________
    Paul E
    '11 AW 135i ; Sold: '99 White M3 81k mi; Dinan SC kit, 6"/3.48" sc pulleys, Aftercooler: 10.5 psi-367 SAE rwhp/304 rwftlbs @80 degrees ambient (still with OBDII manifold & stock cats); DynoTuning by Nick G (techniquetuning.com); Speed Shop: Imported Cars of Stamford; AA-Aquamist Water Injection, exhaust, clutch; Fikse FM-10s; Koni Suspension; Stealthboxes

    http://s11.photobucket.com/albums/a173/boostm3/

Page 2 of 49 FirstFirst 12345678910111227 ... LastLast

Bookmarks

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •