Has anyone dyno'd the gains for the FDM? Read a lot of folks "feeling" supposed gains, but how about some substantial proof?
Here's a couple more links... not sure if they've been posted yet:
http://bimmerforums.com/forum/showth...ght=fan+delete
http://bimmerforums.com/forum/showth...ght=fan+delete
http://bimmerforums.com/forum/showth...ght=fan+delete
Not completely dedicated to fan delete, but there's a couple posts about it:
http://bimmerforums.com/forum/showth...ght=fan+delete
Now, my $.02:
I feel that as long as you buy a kit (it really doesn't matter which one), replace the thermostat, the fan switch, and add Water Wetter, you shouldn't have any issues. When you think about it the fan is probably doing less than 5% of the cooling, especially since it's only hitting the front of the engine and there's no cooling fins for added convection on the sides of the engine, like on an air cooled airplane engine. Your coolant does most of the work and changing the thermostat makes it so it is able to do all the work.
-Jeff
'12 135i (Space Grey): Stock
'98 323is (Schwartz II) (Sold ): UUC SSK w/ clutch stop, UUC UDPs, Cosmos short ram intake, Fan delete, M3 cats and exhaust, M50 manifold, CDV delete, H&R Sport + Bilstein sports
Smoke corners, clear sides and tails, rear lip spoiler, Umnitza depo euro ellipsoids w/ DDEs, Apexcone DDM HID 6000k, black grills, M3 front bumper, mirrors, and rear diffuser, CSL reps
'04 M3 (Estoril) (Sold ): SMG, Meisterschaft SUS exhaust, GC coilovers, Hotchkiss sway bars, Brembo BBK w/ Estoril calipers
Estoril side reflectors & headlight trim, Rep Strassentech front lip, Vorsteiner CSL trunklid and rear diffuser, ACS roof spoiler, automatic rear sunshade, HRE 545R
Understeer says there is a proven 6-8 hp gain.
Anyone try the 72 degree T.Stat from Active Autowerke?
~Phil
Last edited by LuvMy328is; 03-10-2006 at 02:56 AM.
Madeiraviolett Bf.C club member #001
1996 BMW 328is Madeiraviolett/Dove Grey: 5 Spd, Sport, Cold Weather & Premium Sound pkgs.
3.5" ECIS/ITG intake -> Samco ASC Delete Boot -> DINAN TB -> M50 Manifold -> S52 Cams | Bav Auto Red-top ignition coils tuned w/ AA software, Dynomax Cats & Stromung exhaust UUC Pulleys & Clutch stop, FDM=Zionsville radiator, Mishimoto Tank, SAMCO hoses, Fidanza LTW flywheel & M3 clutch, UUC Evo3 SSK, 3.23 LSD, Koni/Eibach Adjustable Damper suspension, PUR RSM's & RTABs, CF Strut brace, UUC Swaybarbarians, Motorsport X-Brace, 17x8 Beyern Mesh wheels Hella CELIS projectors + 5k TRS HID's, Fog delete=Brake cooling duct, LTW wing, ///M Bumper & R. Diffuser
CCA Member #382557
people mostly do this because they're afraid of their fan exploding. you will notice a bit more free-er revving but as far as hp gains it's minimal, maybe 1-2, if thatOriginally Posted by doulos4jc
-Ivan
haha 6-8 not at the wheel power more like 1 hp
328i RIP 4/23/2009
i asked Dave this in another thread, maybe someone here can help clear it up...
can you explain something to me.. as you might know, i got the fan delete kit from understeer.com, so my t-stat is the 80c one.
my question is this... if the t-stat opens at 80c, doesn't that just mean that it just takes the engine a bit longer to get to operating temp than with the regular t-stat??
the reason i'm confused is because i figure once the t-stat opens up, it lets the coolant flow through, so the 80c one just let's it flow through a bit sooner than the 92c for example.
doesn't that mean that the engine temp would be the same with either t-stat, considering you take out the time between 80c and 92c ??
i hope you understand what i'm saying.
-Ivan
no, it means it takes less time to get to operating temp than the regular t-stat, or in other words it starts the circulation earlier than the higher temp t-stat which is what is helpful in lowering overall engine temps.Originally Posted by lecchilo
say you are running the mile and you have to wear a parka when doing it. if you were allowed to remove the parka halfway through the run you'd cool down quicker than the runner that had to leave the parka on longer/whole run.
this is just a quick example. hope it helps.
no actually it didn't help much... are you saying that you're then lowering your cars operating temp compared to before?? i don't understand how it can take less time with a t-stat that starts cooling the engine earlier than another one ??Originally Posted by beatniks325
as far as the parka example, i understand you're basically lowering the operating temp... i might just be dumb
-Ivan
yes, you are lowering the operating temp because engine operating temp is a function of the temp t-stat you have in the car.Originally Posted by lecchilo
does this make sense (a reword of your sentence):
it takes more time for a lower temp t-stat car to overheat (because it opens at a lower temp). it takes less time for a higher temp t-stat to overheat (because it opens at a higher temp)
yea it makes sense... i just didn't know you actually lowered the operating temp of the car with a lower temp t-stat.Originally Posted by beatniks325
thanks
-Ivan
Has anyone tried the 72 degree Stat from AA?
~Phil
Madeiraviolett Bf.C club member #001
1996 BMW 328is Madeiraviolett/Dove Grey: 5 Spd, Sport, Cold Weather & Premium Sound pkgs.
3.5" ECIS/ITG intake -> Samco ASC Delete Boot -> DINAN TB -> M50 Manifold -> S52 Cams | Bav Auto Red-top ignition coils tuned w/ AA software, Dynomax Cats & Stromung exhaust UUC Pulleys & Clutch stop, FDM=Zionsville radiator, Mishimoto Tank, SAMCO hoses, Fidanza LTW flywheel & M3 clutch, UUC Evo3 SSK, 3.23 LSD, Koni/Eibach Adjustable Damper suspension, PUR RSM's & RTABs, CF Strut brace, UUC Swaybarbarians, Motorsport X-Brace, 17x8 Beyern Mesh wheels Hella CELIS projectors + 5k TRS HID's, Fog delete=Brake cooling duct, LTW wing, ///M Bumper & R. Diffuser
CCA Member #382557
it's part of the balancing act of "safely" removing the clutch fan.
which kinda goes back to LuvMy328is's question about the even lower temp t-stat. if you go too low a temp, then the engine is going to run too cool.
I found a 75C t-stat, i think I'm goiung to buy that. Any thoughts?
~Phil
Madeiraviolett Bf.C club member #001
1996 BMW 328is Madeiraviolett/Dove Grey: 5 Spd, Sport, Cold Weather & Premium Sound pkgs.
3.5" ECIS/ITG intake -> Samco ASC Delete Boot -> DINAN TB -> M50 Manifold -> S52 Cams | Bav Auto Red-top ignition coils tuned w/ AA software, Dynomax Cats & Stromung exhaust UUC Pulleys & Clutch stop, FDM=Zionsville radiator, Mishimoto Tank, SAMCO hoses, Fidanza LTW flywheel & M3 clutch, UUC Evo3 SSK, 3.23 LSD, Koni/Eibach Adjustable Damper suspension, PUR RSM's & RTABs, CF Strut brace, UUC Swaybarbarians, Motorsport X-Brace, 17x8 Beyern Mesh wheels Hella CELIS projectors + 5k TRS HID's, Fog delete=Brake cooling duct, LTW wing, ///M Bumper & R. Diffuser
CCA Member #382557
i think that's ok but i wouldn't go lower than 75, might be running too cool thenOriginally Posted by LuvMy328is
-Ivan
I would like to clear one thing up about one of the posts above.
Here's how the cooling system works:Originaly Posted by thejaff
"When you think about it the fan is probably doing less than 5% of the cooling, especially since it's only hitting the front of the engine and there's no cooling fins for added convection on the sides of the engine, like on an air cooled airplane engine. Your coolant does most of the work and changing the thermostat makes it so it is able to do all the work."
Your fan is doing most or all of the work depending on abiant temp or speed, your fan is not there to cool the sides of the engine block; your fan is there to draw air through your radiator. Your radiator is what dose all of your engine cooling with the assistance of the water flowing by means of the pump. The flow of coolant is how you maintain a steady temp as long as you have sufficiant airflow across your radiator: by the time the coolant flows from the top of your radiator to the bottom it has cooled down considerably ready to go back to the engine to draw more heat out.
I will have to continue this rant latter i've got to go.
Last edited by VolvoTech95BMW; 03-07-2006 at 04:37 PM.
Really? I kind of like the idea of lower than 80, but the 72 from AA isn't recommended for street use. I also plan on doing the Aluminum Radiator from Zionsville at some point. I am also going to use the Samco Hoses.Originally Posted by Daved
~Phil
Madeiraviolett Bf.C club member #001
1996 BMW 328is Madeiraviolett/Dove Grey: 5 Spd, Sport, Cold Weather & Premium Sound pkgs.
3.5" ECIS/ITG intake -> Samco ASC Delete Boot -> DINAN TB -> M50 Manifold -> S52 Cams | Bav Auto Red-top ignition coils tuned w/ AA software, Dynomax Cats & Stromung exhaust UUC Pulleys & Clutch stop, FDM=Zionsville radiator, Mishimoto Tank, SAMCO hoses, Fidanza LTW flywheel & M3 clutch, UUC Evo3 SSK, 3.23 LSD, Koni/Eibach Adjustable Damper suspension, PUR RSM's & RTABs, CF Strut brace, UUC Swaybarbarians, Motorsport X-Brace, 17x8 Beyern Mesh wheels Hella CELIS projectors + 5k TRS HID's, Fog delete=Brake cooling duct, LTW wing, ///M Bumper & R. Diffuser
CCA Member #382557
The main job of the thermostat is to set the low-end operating temperature of the engine. If you put too low of a thermostat in your car, then on cool days the engine will not warm up, which will decrease efficiency and could possibly cause damage in extreme cases. That is why the lower temp ones are not recommended for driving on the street.
Here is another example of why the lower temp one for the FDM: Both you and a friend go into a sauna set at 140 degrees. You were sitting in an air conditioned room for an hour before going in, and your friend was sitting in a hot tub set at 100 degrees. Which one of you will overheat and have to leave the sauna first?
Now that depends on who has a higher tolerance for Sauna's, I'd be out of there first even if you had put me in an ice bath prior to going inOriginally Posted by OldCarGuy
Welp, Just got my car back from the mechanic. Had a new radiator put in, new control arms and a power steering hose replaced as well as a wheel alignment.
Car feels sooo tight handling now. All is well until I hop on the highway and rev up to pass a truck. BOOM! black shards fly out from under the car and I start to smell coolant. got the car home before I was in the red zone, pop the hood, everything is steamy and I see blue coolant bleeding out of the centre of the BRAND NEW radiator.
Maybe you guys are onto something with this Fan Delete.
-Al.
2001 Z3 3.0i -Oxford Green/Sandbeige
2016 428xi -Estoril Blue II/Black
2018 430iC- Estoril Blue II/Black
2018 330it - Melbourne Red/Venetian Beige/Black
Waterpump or clutch is bad too. That sucks. Get the FDK it's the first engine mod I'm doing.
e46 m3, some 740 sport shorts, F30h, LR3 and a 540it
Mechanic's fault this happened. Make him fix it at no extra charge to you. It's his responsibility to see something serious enough to make your fan fly off if that's what he was working on.
9/2004 Chevrolet Suburban Z71, black, purchased March 2016, 270k miles.
6/99 740i Cosmos Schwartz M Sport, 214k miles, purchased May 2017
2001 740i OrientBlau M Sport, purchased March 2023
1984 MasterCraft Stars and Stripes, Blue/White, PCM Ford 351W, PowerSlot, 912 hours, purchased September 2012 (not a car )
4/99 323is/5. Titansilber, 211k miles. Straight body project.
past BMWs: 5/1994 325isa (Arktisgrau), 3/1997 328is/5 (cosmosschwartz), 9/1990 535i/5 (calypsorot), 9/1990 318i/5 (brillantrot) 7/93 325i/5 convertible (samoablau) 2/92 325i/5 cabriolet (lagunengruen).
SÜNDE REISEN
the fan doesn't fly off, the blades hit the shroud or something else and breaks. usually caused by the water pump going out..
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