Member
I just installed my new Stromung exhaust, and since there is a group buy going on, I thought I would post a few hints--I am retarded with a digital camera, so no pics. For anyone with reasonable mechanical skills what follows won't be needed, but if there are some neophyte wrenchers out there this might help.
1) You will need a 13 mm socket, and 12 and 13 mm wrenches. A 12 mm socket is helpul (possibly a deep socket, see *** entry under number 7, below), and some copper based anti-sieze compound isn't a bad idea.
2) There are only six fasteners you will deal with: 2 nuts at the muffler (13 mm) with 2 brackets and 4 nuts/bolts at the cat exhaust flanges (12 mm nuts, 13 mm bolts).
3) I was NOT able to reuse all of my hardware.
4) Getting the stock exhaust off is easy--just unbolt things. It might be helpful to put some penetrating oil (e.g. liquid wrench) on the exhaust flange nuts to make them easier to get off (althought they are copper and were not siezed on my car). The way I did this was to jack up the car (using the differential carrier, not the diff itself) and then supported the car with jack stands and rhino ramps under the wheels as a back up. Search on this if you are not sure--people are killed by falling cars!
5) Loosen then remove 4 nuts at the exhaust flanges, then put something underneath the muffler to support it, then undo the 13 mm nuts. By pulling/wiggling/etc. the exhaust tips the assembly should come loose--remove it (and it is HEAVY).
6) Retrieve the metal "donuts" that act as the gaskets between the cat flanges and the exhaust flanges.
7) Support the muffler portion of the new exhaust underneath the car, line up the pipes and flanges, put the donuts in place, insert the bolts (with copper antisieze compound on the threads), and start the nuts. At this point you will notice that one of the two pipe joints is fixed, and the other can slide. This gives you some side to side adjustability to line the tips up in the valence opening.
***On my car, the stock bolts were a bit too long--the nuts came close to bottoming out on the end of the threads (the flange bolts are only threaded for a portion of the bolt length). This happens because the Stromung flanges are much thinner that the stock BMW flanges. One nut bottomed on me initially because I had not tightened the bolts on each side of the flange equally--I suspect they just clear if you tighten everything just right. That made me nervous so I bought some new bolts--though a few washers would have done the trick as well. These bolts are M8's, 1.25 threads, and I got 50 mm length (stock is 55), but 45's would just work. This size allows you to reuse the copper nuts. You may need a deep 12 mm socket (or a 12 mm wrench) to get these on--a standard depth 12 mm socket won't work.
8) Now, refasten the rear hanger brackets and nuts--your exhaust is now self supporting.
9) There are probably a couple of ways to do this, but this worked for me. I mostly tightened the non-adjustable flange, then used a wood wedge to center the tips (having a friend hold the tips in the correct place would work as well) then I tightened the adjustable flange bolts. Out from underneath the car, wood wedges out, checked alignment, then fully tightened the four flange bolts. (I actually had to redo this once to get the alignment right).
That's it--lower the car and enjoy.
Member
Thanks for the advice. I'll be installing mine soon.
Not a Detailer Anymore.
You can use bungie cords to support if you are doing yourself or even with soemone else.
Saves dropping it and scarring it up.
I've had mine a few years and it has a great sound.
Member
Good post
Thanks for the writeup...Saved me requesting one, and the tips will help. Wtg
Got mine last night looking 4ward 2 the install.
Money, Power, Respect = ///M3
street tires lol
I didn't have any problems with the bolts being too long, although it wouldn't hurt to have a few washers on hand just in case.
It can be difficult to slide the pipes, but if you use something to pry them apart slightly (I used the wooden handle of a finishing nail hammer) it makes it easier.
As far as getting the tips to align properly, I think I had an easier time than most. One thing you can do to get you that extra 1/8" either way is to slightly loosen one of the bolts on either side of the muffler. In my case, one of the tips was resting slightly too far to the driver's side. So I loosened that hanger bolt a little bit, which allowed the tips to be centered. It also seemed to help that I cranked down on the passenger-side flange bolts first, which theoretically pulls the exhaust slightly to that side. It may take a little experimentation, but I was impressed with the fitment given the tiny tolerances.
Member
I know this is a super old thread but.... does anyone have updated advice on how to align the exhaust tips of the Stromung? I installed mine last night but the tips are all the way to the driver side, leaning against the valance and I cannot adjust them. Is wiggling it all I can really do?
Also, for those who may have trouble getting the Stromung exhaust flanges to connect with the catalytic converter flanges... I got them to be about .25-.5 inches apart and then had to use bolts to finish the job of pulling the flanges together. I did this job by myself without a lift but I am sure it's easier with a friend.
Member
BMW E36 M3 Expert
The latter part is your issue. Tip placement in the valance is set at the midsection connection, and very very minimally at the hangers. Loosen everything and do it again.Originally Posted by smason96
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