Can anyone give an example of a Non-Resistor Spark Plug, and explain what they are?
Thanks,
Juker008
http://www.google.com/search?hl=en&q...tor+spark+plug
Google is your friend
'96 Cosmos Black M3 422rwhp/407rwtq SAE @ 13psi / 444rwhp/444rwtq SAE @ 14.5psi
Engine/Drivetrain: Technique Tuning Stage 2 Turbo TT Turbo Exhaust, M50 Manifold, TMS Oil Baffles, SSR Comps, SPEC Stage II Clutch, UUC SSK, Titanium Cavallino Ti-130R Shift Knob, UUC TME, EMC Diff Bolt, RCCA's. Suspension: GC Coil-overs, GC RSMs, GC RTABs, GC Trans Mount; H&R SB. Instrumentation: VDO Boost, VDO Oil Press, VDO Oil Temp, VDO Water Temp, BMW Traffic Pro Navigation, Valentine One TODO: W/A Injection
Silverstone plugs and nology wires were a big 'hit' back in the day. Silverstone plugs are non-resistor plugs. They created a larger 'kernel' of spark and did it quicker so you could make your timing a little tighter (closer to TDC) and supposedly it created as much as 5% more power . Unfortunately that uncontrolled spark didn't keep the temps in the correct specs. Now it's not really an issue with iridium plugs and coil packs right on the plugs. No loss in power when there is such a short gap to go from the coilpacks to the plugs. Also, it's hard to create a controlled heat range when you have an 'uncontrolled' spark/kernel size. Silverstone plugs were known for running hot - you wouldn't want to go FI with these. These are the only experience I had with non-resistor plugs.
EDIT: edited for relevance/perspective.
Last edited by EEEEeeee36; 11-09-2005 at 03:57 AM.
actually, the plugs alot of us on the FI board are using , the ngk r5671a-7 plugs are, in fact, Non Resistor type plugs!
___________________
Paul E
'11 AW 135i ; Sold: '99 White M3 81k mi; Dinan SC kit, 6"/3.48" sc pulleys, Aftercooler: 10.5 psi-367 SAE rwhp/304 rwftlbs @80 degrees ambient (still with OBDII manifold & stock cats); DynoTuning by Nick G (techniquetuning.com); Speed Shop: Imported Cars of Stamford; AA-Aquamist Water Injection, exhaust, clutch; Fikse FM-10s; Koni Suspension; Stealthboxes
http://s11.photobucket.com/albums/a173/boostm3/
I thought the purpose of the resistor was to reduce AM radio noise and general RF interference. Is there another purpose?
James Muskopf
RRT Racing
DC Metro's premier BMW service and racing facility
I was referring to Silverstone plugs specifically - I'm sure many of the guys running FI on the boards are using a wide variety of plugs, including non-resistor. I edited my post for perspective.Originally Posted by paul e
same here.Originally Posted by JamesM3M5
Guys thanks for the info. From my understanding now is that the Denso Iridium IK20, or IK22, are non-resistors? This is the understanding I'm ending up with, going with the information from Denso (how to identy plugs) . Am I correct with this?
Juker008
http://www.densoproducts.com/resultsSearch.aspOriginally Posted by Juker008
These are resistor plugs, these are used quite often in the honda community. I would suggest something in the range of the ik24 or ik27 for boosted cars.
Chad Charlton - 913-207-6539, cell phone
www.mkcperformance.com - 913-432-8468
Hot Rod/Pro-4 Honda CRX - 9.51 @ 155
Pro Am/SFWD Honda Civic - 9.896 @ 139; Best MPH 151
DD Evo 8 FPRed E85 - 11.751 @ 123.79 ~ 440whp/380wtq
Drag Evo 8 - have motor need cage work
Originally Posted by kcevo
I see alot of the FI guys here running IK22. I would think IK24 for high horsepower FI guys. IK27 wow, those have got to be for those running 30+ psi .
Juker008
Originally Posted by kcevo
BTW shouldn't the IK20, IK22, etc. resistor plugs be IK20R?
Juker008
You can never really have too cold of a plug. They also have a IK31 too. Rule of thumb is usally one step colder for each 100hp added, but I read the plug the old school way to tell if it needs a step colder or not. You could also save yourself some money and use a copper plug that is around 2 bucks a piece opposed to 11 bucks for the IK's.Originally Posted by Juker008
Chad Charlton - 913-207-6539, cell phone
www.mkcperformance.com - 913-432-8468
Hot Rod/Pro-4 Honda CRX - 9.51 @ 155
Pro Am/SFWD Honda Civic - 9.896 @ 139; Best MPH 151
DD Evo 8 FPRed E85 - 11.751 @ 123.79 ~ 440whp/380wtq
Drag Evo 8 - have motor need cage work
You would wonder why they didn't have that but when researching the plug everything says it is a resistor plug. Also, when reading anything in regards to Electronic Fuel Injection they specifically state to use a resistor plug. Non-resistor plugs can emit very large RF noise/interference that could effect the low voltage magnetic crank/cam pickups.Originally Posted by Juker008
Chad Charlton - 913-207-6539, cell phone
www.mkcperformance.com - 913-432-8468
Hot Rod/Pro-4 Honda CRX - 9.51 @ 155
Pro Am/SFWD Honda Civic - 9.896 @ 139; Best MPH 151
DD Evo 8 FPRed E85 - 11.751 @ 123.79 ~ 440whp/380wtq
Drag Evo 8 - have motor need cage work
Originally Posted by kcevo
Haa, yea I thought of the same thing. Start off with coppers, find the right heat range then switch to Iridiums when the proper heat range is found.
Hmmm, 1 heat range lower, for every 100 hp from stock...hmm that means that I should use an IK29. 1 extra heat range lower for that margin of saftey .
Juker008
Originally Posted by kcevo
Ahhh I see . BTW do you have the link to that. Maybe there is more info in there that could peak my interest. Thanks .
Juker008
Originally Posted by Juker008
Do a search for a "how to read spark plugs" on google, you will find tons. The plug is too hot if you have an extremely white insulator with some scorching on the ground strap from the plug not being able to dissapate enough heat from the chamber.
Chad Charlton - 913-207-6539, cell phone
www.mkcperformance.com - 913-432-8468
Hot Rod/Pro-4 Honda CRX - 9.51 @ 155
Pro Am/SFWD Honda Civic - 9.896 @ 139; Best MPH 151
DD Evo 8 FPRed E85 - 11.751 @ 123.79 ~ 440whp/380wtq
Drag Evo 8 - have motor need cage work
The link I posted above I thought would take you there, but just clicked it and had an error. Type IK22 in the search box and hit enter it will take you there I'm sure.Originally Posted by Juker008
Chad Charlton - 913-207-6539, cell phone
www.mkcperformance.com - 913-432-8468
Hot Rod/Pro-4 Honda CRX - 9.51 @ 155
Pro Am/SFWD Honda Civic - 9.896 @ 139; Best MPH 151
DD Evo 8 FPRed E85 - 11.751 @ 123.79 ~ 440whp/380wtq
Drag Evo 8 - have motor need cage work
I had a very bad experience with the Denso IK22's. I would stay away from them. I switched over to NGK, and it's been running fine ever since.
Originally Posted by Jaded M3
What was the bad experience you had? Did you switch to NGK Iridiums?
Juker008
Originally Posted by Jaded M3
Really? George uses them on alot of cars. He put them in mine and I think theyre terrific!
___________________
Paul E
'11 AW 135i ; Sold: '99 White M3 81k mi; Dinan SC kit, 6"/3.48" sc pulleys, Aftercooler: 10.5 psi-367 SAE rwhp/304 rwftlbs @80 degrees ambient (still with OBDII manifold & stock cats); DynoTuning by Nick G (techniquetuning.com); Speed Shop: Imported Cars of Stamford; AA-Aquamist Water Injection, exhaust, clutch; Fikse FM-10s; Koni Suspension; Stealthboxes
http://s11.photobucket.com/albums/a173/boostm3/
In the first set I had, 2 of them broke. The second set , 3 of them broke.Originally Posted by Juker008
What do you mean broke? Electrode missing, insulator missing, etc. If that's the case I would look at the tuning.Originally Posted by Jaded M3
Chad Charlton - 913-207-6539, cell phone
www.mkcperformance.com - 913-432-8468
Hot Rod/Pro-4 Honda CRX - 9.51 @ 155
Pro Am/SFWD Honda Civic - 9.896 @ 139; Best MPH 151
DD Evo 8 FPRed E85 - 11.751 @ 123.79 ~ 440whp/380wtq
Drag Evo 8 - have motor need cage work
The ceramic insulator broke. It had nothing to do with my tuning. My tuning is just fine. If you look on the web, these have been known to break.Originally Posted by kcevo
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