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Thread: What Are Non-Resistor Spark Plugs?

  1. #1
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    What Are Non-Resistor Spark Plugs?

    Can anyone give an example of a Non-Resistor Spark Plug, and explain what they are?


    Thanks,




    Juker008

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    Silverstone plugs and nology wires were a big 'hit' back in the day. Silverstone plugs are non-resistor plugs. They created a larger 'kernel' of spark and did it quicker so you could make your timing a little tighter (closer to TDC) and supposedly it created as much as 5% more power . Unfortunately that uncontrolled spark didn't keep the temps in the correct specs. Now it's not really an issue with iridium plugs and coil packs right on the plugs. No loss in power when there is such a short gap to go from the coilpacks to the plugs. Also, it's hard to create a controlled heat range when you have an 'uncontrolled' spark/kernel size. Silverstone plugs were known for running hot - you wouldn't want to go FI with these. These are the only experience I had with non-resistor plugs.

    EDIT: edited for relevance/perspective.
    Last edited by EEEEeeee36; 11-09-2005 at 03:57 AM.

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    actually, the plugs alot of us on the FI board are using , the ngk r5671a-7 plugs are, in fact, Non Resistor type plugs!
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    I thought the purpose of the resistor was to reduce AM radio noise and general RF interference. Is there another purpose?
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    Quote Originally Posted by paul e
    actually, the plugs alot of us on the FI board are using , the ngk r5671a-7 plugs are, in fact, Non Resistor type plugs!
    I was referring to Silverstone plugs specifically - I'm sure many of the guys running FI on the boards are using a wide variety of plugs, including non-resistor. I edited my post for perspective.

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    Quote Originally Posted by JamesM3M5
    I thought the purpose of the resistor was to reduce AM radio noise and general RF interference. Is there another purpose?
    same here.

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    Guys thanks for the info. From my understanding now is that the Denso Iridium IK20, or IK22, are non-resistors? This is the understanding I'm ending up with, going with the information from Denso (how to identy plugs) . Am I correct with this?





    Juker008

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    Quote Originally Posted by Juker008
    Guys thanks for the info. From my understanding now is that the Denso Iridium IK20, or IK22, are non-resistors? This is the understanding I'm ending up with, going with the information from Denso (how to identy plugs) . Am I correct with this?





    Juker008
    http://www.densoproducts.com/resultsSearch.asp

    These are resistor plugs, these are used quite often in the honda community. I would suggest something in the range of the ik24 or ik27 for boosted cars.
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    Quote Originally Posted by kcevo
    http://www.densoproducts.com/resultsSearch.asp

    These are resistor plugs, these are used quite often in the honda community. I would suggest something in the range of the ik24 or ik27 for boosted cars.


    I see alot of the FI guys here running IK22. I would think IK24 for high horsepower FI guys. IK27 wow, those have got to be for those running 30+ psi .




    Juker008

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    Quote Originally Posted by kcevo
    http://www.densoproducts.com/resultsSearch.asp

    These are resistor plugs, these are used quite often in the honda community. I would suggest something in the range of the ik24 or ik27 for boosted cars.

    BTW shouldn't the IK20, IK22, etc. resistor plugs be IK20R?





    Juker008

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    Quote Originally Posted by Juker008
    I see alot of the FI guys here running IK22. I would think IK24 for high horsepower FI guys. IK27 wow, those have got to be for those running 30+ psi .




    Juker008
    You can never really have too cold of a plug. They also have a IK31 too. Rule of thumb is usally one step colder for each 100hp added, but I read the plug the old school way to tell if it needs a step colder or not. You could also save yourself some money and use a copper plug that is around 2 bucks a piece opposed to 11 bucks for the IK's.
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    Drag Evo 8 - have motor need cage work

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    Quote Originally Posted by Juker008
    BTW shouldn't the IK20, IK22, etc. resistor plugs be IK20R?





    Juker008
    You would wonder why they didn't have that but when researching the plug everything says it is a resistor plug. Also, when reading anything in regards to Electronic Fuel Injection they specifically state to use a resistor plug. Non-resistor plugs can emit very large RF noise/interference that could effect the low voltage magnetic crank/cam pickups.
    Chad Charlton - 913-207-6539, cell phone
    www.mkcperformance.com - 913-432-8468

    Hot Rod/Pro-4 Honda CRX - 9.51 @ 155
    Pro Am/SFWD Honda Civic - 9.896 @ 139; Best MPH 151
    DD Evo 8 FPRed E85 - 11.751 @ 123.79 ~ 440whp/380wtq
    Drag Evo 8 - have motor need cage work

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    Quote Originally Posted by kcevo
    You can never really have too cold of a plug. They also have a IK31 too. Rule of thumb is usally one step colder for each 100hp added, but I read the plug the old school way to tell if it needs a step colder or not. You could also save yourself some money and use a copper plug that is around 2 bucks a piece opposed to 11 bucks for the IK's.

    Haa, yea I thought of the same thing. Start off with coppers, find the right heat range then switch to Iridiums when the proper heat range is found.

    Hmmm, 1 heat range lower, for every 100 hp from stock...hmm that means that I should use an IK29. 1 extra heat range lower for that margin of saftey .




    Juker008

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    Quote Originally Posted by kcevo
    You would wonder why they didn't have that but when researching the plug everything says it is a resistor plug. Also, when reading anything in regards to Electronic Fuel Injection they specifically state to use a resistor plug. Non-resistor plugs can emit very large RF noise/interference that could effect the low voltage magnetic crank/cam pickups.

    Ahhh I see . BTW do you have the link to that. Maybe there is more info in there that could peak my interest. Thanks .






    Juker008

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    Quote Originally Posted by Juker008
    Haa, yea I thought of the same thing. Start off with coppers, find the right heat range then switch to Iridiums when the proper heat range is found.

    Hmmm, 1 heat range lower, for every 100 hp from stock...hmm that means that I should use an IK29. 1 extra heat range lower for that margin of saftey .

    Juker008

    Do a search for a "how to read spark plugs" on google, you will find tons. The plug is too hot if you have an extremely white insulator with some scorching on the ground strap from the plug not being able to dissapate enough heat from the chamber.
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    Quote Originally Posted by Juker008
    Ahhh I see . BTW do you have the link to that. Maybe there is more info in there that could peak my interest. Thanks .






    Juker008
    The link I posted above I thought would take you there, but just clicked it and had an error. Type IK22 in the search box and hit enter it will take you there I'm sure.
    Chad Charlton - 913-207-6539, cell phone
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    DD Evo 8 FPRed E85 - 11.751 @ 123.79 ~ 440whp/380wtq
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    I had a very bad experience with the Denso IK22's. I would stay away from them. I switched over to NGK, and it's been running fine ever since.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Jaded M3
    I had a very bad experience with the Denso IK22's. I would stay away from them. I switched over to NGK, and it's been running fine ever since.


    What was the bad experience you had? Did you switch to NGK Iridiums?





    Juker008

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    Quote Originally Posted by Jaded M3
    I had a very bad experience with the Denso IK22's. I would stay away from them. I switched over to NGK, and it's been running fine ever since.

    Really? George uses them on alot of cars. He put them in mine and I think theyre terrific!
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    Quote Originally Posted by Juker008
    What was the bad experience you had? Did you switch to NGK Iridiums?





    Juker008
    In the first set I had, 2 of them broke. The second set , 3 of them broke.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Jaded M3
    In the first set I had, 2 of them broke. The second set , 3 of them broke.
    What do you mean broke? Electrode missing, insulator missing, etc. If that's the case I would look at the tuning.
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    Hot Rod/Pro-4 Honda CRX - 9.51 @ 155
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    Drag Evo 8 - have motor need cage work

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    Quote Originally Posted by kcevo
    What do you mean broke? Electrode missing, insulator missing, etc. If that's the case I would look at the tuning.
    The ceramic insulator broke. It had nothing to do with my tuning. My tuning is just fine. If you look on the web, these have been known to break.

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