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Thread: E34 Manual Pedals Removal

  1. #1
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    E34 Manual Pedals Removal

    anyone know how to? i cant find a link, since my car is done, im going to be removing that....anyone have a clue how to?
    thanks
    :BavariaE34: :P

  2. #2
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    Four bolts on the top. Four bolts and one nut on the firewall. All M8 with 13 mm socket. 32 mm collar nut on the steeering shaft. M8 bolt on the brake linkage. Loosen the hydraulic connection on the master. Remove the clutch fluid reservoir hose conn. to the master. That's it.
    '01 540it, built 6/01
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  3. #3
    moroza's Avatar
    moroza is offline MORΩN ΛABIA BMW CCA Member
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    Quote Originally Posted by moroza View Post
    Four bolts on the top, yes. Four bolts on the firewall? I thought they were all nuts?
    You are right. Four nuts plus one bolt on the firewall.
    '01 540it, built 6/01
    '08 535xit, built 2/08
    '10 535xi, built 9/09
    '10 mini 6 speed
    '15 mini countryman 6 speed

  5. #5
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    haha- I like to call bolts/nuts/rivets "fasteners" so I never get accused of being wrong.

  6. #6
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    Quote Originally Posted by moroza View Post
    Four bolts on the top, yes. Four bolts on the firewall? I thought they were all nuts?
    that looks damn confusing.

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    Hardest part is getting the impossible bolt out. It attaches the steering column to the pedal brackets, and you need to remove the column to get to two bolts. So to do that, just remove the two bolts securing the column to the drop down arms, swivel the column to one side, get the bolt out, swivel to the other side and get the other bolt out.

    This way, you can deal with the bolt with the pedals and column out of the car.
    Vehicles:
    (Sold) 95' 525 - ZF320 5-speed swap, 3.46LSD rear, Raceland headers + straight pipe
    (Current) 2012 Scion tC 6-spd M/T - slow

  8. #8
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    moroza is offline MORΩN ΛABIA BMW CCA Member
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    Not true. The two forward steeringcolumn mounting bolts can be reached around the column itself, though the column linkage or rubber disk might have to be moved.

    The impossibolt is best removed with the bracket on a bench, using a drill or cutoff wheel. Then throw it as far as possible and replace with a 8.8 M8 13mm zinc-plated hex bolt as they should've installed in the first place.
    Last edited by moroza; 11-26-2009 at 01:30 AM.

  9. #9
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    Ah fack am I ever confused now lol
    hopefully I'll figure it out when I'm taking the thing apart

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    There is a hole in the inner fender for access to the clutch hard line at the master. Remove the plastic inner fender and look for the plug.

    If you can leave two black stripes from the exit of one corner to the braking zone of the next, you have enough horsepower. - Mark Donohue

  11. #11
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    Quote Originally Posted by moroza View Post
    Not true. The two forward steeringcolumn mounting bolts can be reached around the column itself, though the column linkage or rubber disk might have to be moved.

    The impossibolt is best removed with the bracket on a bench, using a drill or cutoff wheel. Then throw it as far as possible and replace with a 8.8 M8 13mm zinc-plated hex bolt as they should've installed in the first place.
    Correct on the first part.




    But I am not sure the bolt with a round bolt head is not there without a purpose knowing BMW's notoriety for over engineeering. I suspect it was designed to shear off upon frontal collision when sufficient force on the steering column would cause it to do. Although like you I have no alternative but to slot the bolt head to remove it and replace with a regular M8 bolt during the 6 speed conversion.

    Last edited by yaofeng; 11-26-2009 at 07:46 AM.
    '01 540it, built 6/01
    '08 535xit, built 2/08
    '10 535xi, built 9/09
    '10 mini 6 speed
    '15 mini countryman 6 speed

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    Quote Originally Posted by russiankid View Post
    Hardest part is getting the impossible bolt out. It attaches the steering column to the pedal brackets, and you need to remove the column to get to two bolts. So to do that, just remove the two bolts securing the column to the drop down arms, swivel the column to one side, get the bolt out, swivel to the other side and get the other bolt out.

    This way, you can deal with the bolt with the pedals and column out of the car.
    That impossible bolt is really easy, with air. Use your air chisel one quick hit and it spins free. Replace with regular nut and bolt I used a nylock to reassemble.

  13. #13
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    Quote Originally Posted by moroza View Post
    Not true. The two forward steeringcolumn mounting bolts can be reached around the column itself, though the column linkage or rubber disk might have to be moved.

    The impossibolt is best removed with the bracket on a bench, using a drill or cutoff wheel. Then throw it as far as possible and replace with a 8.8 M8 13mm zinc-plated hex bolt as they should've installed in the first place.
    It makes life so much easier to swivel it around.

    Quote Originally Posted by h2oyo View Post
    That impossible bolt is really easy, with air. Use your air chisel one quick hit and it spins free. Replace with regular nut and bolt I used a nylock to reassemble.
    I replaced the bolt with just a regular zinc coated M8x1.25 bolt.
    Last edited by russiankid; 11-26-2009 at 12:33 PM. Reason: Automerged Doublepost
    Vehicles:
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  14. #14
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    moroza is offline MORΩN ΛABIA BMW CCA Member
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    BMW is just as notorious for utterly asinine minor design decisions with no useful purpose, as they are for proper overengineering (see: Touring rear hatch wiring, Torx bolts on M60 intake manifold, plastic radiators, aso.) In this case, I see no indication whatsoever that the actual bolt body is any different from a plain old hex. Besides, the rest of the upper bracket is held in by plain old bolts torqued to something substantial, into welded-on brackets on the firewall.

    I prefer my car to be maintainable, thank you very much.

  15. #15
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    Quote Originally Posted by yaofeng View Post


    Although like you I have no alternative but to slot the bolt head to remove it and replace with a regular M8 bolt during the 6 speed conversion.

    Why replace it at all, just use a flathead to put it back in. Actually EASIER. it is merely SNUG not even torqued to any significant amount.


    MOR: it IS different. it is aluminum and is a shear bolt. (note the other two 'normal' bolts are in slotted tabs so the steeringwheel can collapse toward the firewall.
    Last edited by attack eagle; 11-26-2009 at 08:35 PM.

  16. #16
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    Quote Originally Posted by moroza View Post
    BMW is just as notorious for utterly asinine minor design decisions with no useful purpose, as they are for proper overengineering (see: Touring rear hatch wiring, Torx bolts on M60 intake manifold, plastic radiators, aso.) In this case, I see no indication whatsoever that the actual bolt body is any different from a plain old hex. Besides, the rest of the upper bracket is held in by plain old bolts torqued to something substantial, into welded-on brackets on the firewall.

    I prefer my car to be maintainable, thank you very much.
    You will be happy to know at least BMW is constantly trying to improve. On the E39 M60 the intake bolts have been changed to hex, You will admit though the two bolts with the plastic sleeve will break away upon impact.
    '01 540it, built 6/01
    '08 535xit, built 2/08
    '10 535xi, built 9/09
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    '15 mini countryman 6 speed

  17. #17
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    Quote Originally Posted by moroza View Post
    Not true. The two forward steeringcolumn mounting bolts can be reached around the column itself, though the column linkage or rubber disk might have to be moved.

    The impossibolt is best removed with the bracket on a bench, using a drill or cutoff wheel. Then throw it as far as possible and replace with a 8.8 M8 13mm zinc-plated hex bolt as they should've installed in the first place.
    Fount of wisdom. Hahaha

    Thank you all for sharing!!

  18. #18
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  19. #19
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    Hahahaha

    This is the consequence of using the search button!

    Thank you all again

  20. #20
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    I've done 2 manual swaps and all I had to do was remove the long bolt for the pedals. I didn't have to remove the whole column.

  21. #21
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    Quote Originally Posted by cirrusblau View Post
    I've done 2 manual swaps and all I had to do was remove the long bolt for the pedals. I didn't have to remove the whole column.
    Yeah but the automatic does not have the support for the clutch pedal sensor. But yes, I did realize that both auto and manual have the same housing for the pedals. You colud just swap everything from one to the other and done.

  22. #22
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    Clutch pedal sensor? Is this the switch that you have the clutch depressed before starting the car? I think this is just a US thing. The donor car that I used for my first swap was a euro e32 735i and there wasn't any switch or sensor attached. My cars start fine without those.

  23. #23
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    Quote Originally Posted by cirrusblau View Post
    Clutch pedal sensor? Is this the switch that you have the clutch depressed before starting the car? I think this is just a US thing. The donor car that I used for my first swap was a euro e32 735i and there wasn't any switch or sensor attached. My cars start fine without those.
    Yeah, it seems 35i dont have them or so I read somewhere. All the others have them. It is for the cruise control.
    I remember reading somewhere that when converting an auto to manual, some people noticed that the engine drops rpm slower when releasing the throttle. Maybe this has something to do with it, I dont know.

  24. #24
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    I recall there also being no perch for the over center spring on the auto bracket, but its been a LONG time since ive turned a wrench on a pedal cluster, so i could very well be wrong!
    -Alex

  25. #25
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    The pedal switch has a separate bracket that attaches to the end of the long bolt , it’s only use is to disable cruise when you push the pedal in. There is no clutch safety on the e34/32
    Me E30 87/ 325i + F25 12/ M-Sport + E32 94/ 740i

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