I have the same thing going on with my car.
Since I'm getting M3 cams . . . the valve cover gasket will be covered.
I cleaned the ICV twice and going to do the fuel filter when I swap to the suspension. We also replaced knock sensors and check for other vacuum leaks. . . .
So far everything is checking out as good. . . .
We'll see what happens. . . .
-=PJ
Strike Zero's Garage
==================================================
2006 SCR-SCCA Street Mod Champion
1982 Toyota Corolla
1988 Volvo 780
1993 BMW 318is: Gas Sipper
1993 BMW 325is => 350is: Track Rat
1994 BMW 530i + 5spd
1997 BMW 740i: Hwy Killah!!
1998 Honda VFR800FI: Gear Driven Cam Goodness
2000 Dodge Dakota: V8 + 5spd = Smokey Fun
2000 Lincoln LS V6 5spd
2004 Pontiac GTO - RIP
2005 Cadillac CTS-V
==================================================
"If not under warranty, live with it, or bend over and grab ankles."
When I order the coils Im going to do the O2 at the same time. Forgot to add that.Originally Posted by atlantisvip
-Serge
Subscribed. My car is having the same problems. It accelerates very roughly/hesitantly from a stop but when you get around 3K rpms it all of a sudden runs normal. Im losing my patience with this, keep this thread alive so we can try to diagnose the problem.
1992 BMW 325i
************
MODIFICATIONS
AA Chip
UUC System U v.2 exhaust
15'' Kicker Solobaric L7 running on 1200W JBL amp
Alpine CDA-9815
18x8.5 ADR M Sports
H&R Cup Kit
I changed my valve cover gasket and it didn't do anything to help. Not long ago I did the main O2 sensor and not much changed. With the crank sensor, you don't always have to replace it. Basicly all it is is a magnet that interacts with another magnet on the crankshaft and sends out a signal. Most of the time you can just take the sensor out and clean off all of the collected metal shavings to get better recption between the crank and the sensor. I'm going to clean mine the next time I put it in the air to change the oil, which should be soon. I'll post the results if I can.
Where is it, and how do you clean it?Originally Posted by static667
Thanks,
Dan
Dan
Its right below the knock sensor, by the starter. Get a can of carb and choke cleaner. Clean the metal shavings off with a paper towel then carefully spray the end of the sensor with the cleaner (try not to soak the connections and electronics) and wipe it off.
Check your coil pack boots.. I used a volt/ohms reader to check resistance.. One of them was very high.. Im not sure how exactly all this works but I know the lower the number the better.. No more bad idle at start up..
E36 NON Vanos and Misc Parts for Sale
http://s1126.photobucket.com/user/To...25i%2092/story
http://s1126.photobucket.com/user/Tomfordny/library/
im so glad im finshed with this problem. guys its deff electrical. you're gettin bad signals from somewhere.
i recommend when the problem is occuring. if you have the time, pull over and play around with different sensors in the engine bay. apply pressure, wiggle, tap different plugs.
then check and see if the car runs normally. try narrowing it down that way. tahts what i did and founs out my crank sensor was bad.
good luck
mike
hey guys,
i have a late 1991 320i.
i recently had a stroker kit put on, bigger injectors, 328 cams, and a few other mods.
this bogging problem is quite evident in mine but only happens when it is a hot day. in the cool weather it is perfectly fine. it is only up until about 3k rpm that it bogs down then it seems fine and pulls like normal. this leads me to believe it is a sensor of some sort. some sort of air sensor perhaps?
if anyone could shed some light on the issue it would be great because summer is fast approaching and i hate the frutrating problem of not being able to take off quickly and then all of a sudden launching off. it feels like turbo lag in a WRX or something, terrible problem.....
Hey guys
I had the same problem with my 92 325i real bad hesitation, but it went away after 3k rpm. I just chandes the O2 sensor and no more hesitation.Perfectly smooth from idle to redlineline now. Hope this helps
Hey guys,
I tested my vanos this weekend. At first I was getting 5 mm of travel, but after cycling it on and off a few times, I was getting 8mm of travel. (Minimum is 8.5mm).
Funny thing is, after I put it all back together and drove it, the car drove GREAT. It rev'ed quicker, had much more power all around, and even sounded more aggressive. I drove around for 15 - 20 minutes. After I came home, I showered, and went out again. Same old problem. Sluggish reving, slow response, and no power until 4k.
I'm thinking the vanos unit is sticking when it gets heated up. I'm tempted to try testing it with a hot motor, but its tough to work on a hot motor. I also might try putting a probe on the signal wire to the solenoid to see if the DME is sending it the right signals. It may not even be sending it a signal when the coolant temp warms up to a certain temperature, right? This could be why it runs great when cold.
Either way I took some video since I figured most of you were curious to see vanos in action
Video: http://media.putfile.com/MOV00478
-Chris
Cool video...
|AST4100 w/ Vorshlag CC Plates|UUC Sways|X-Brace|255/40/17 NT01s|M50 Manifold|Dinan Software|PF FCABs|UUC RTABs|UUC Subframe Bushings|Hawk HP+|Stewart's H20 Pump|Mech Fan Del. with SPAL puller|TFX retrofit w/ E46 shrouds|AFE Intake|APEX ARC8 17x9|VM Swaybar endlinks|CDV Delete|Subframe Plates|Poly Diff Bushings|
97 M3 Coupe
06 E90 330xi
02 X5 4.4
93 325i SOLD
Nice vid, thanks! How exactly does the tool work? How do you measure travel? I guess this means your vanos needs replacing?Originally Posted by a32guy
Thanks,
Dan
Dan
Well thank you. It goes in place of the oil hose that provides oil pressure to the vanos unit. Basicly your substituting compressed air for oil pressure.Originally Posted by dmurray14
Vernier calipers. Measure open, record. Measure closed, record. Subtract difference. Difference should be at least 8.5mm.Originally Posted by dmurray14
Not really sure yet Dan. Yes it should be moving a bit more, but I don't know if .5 mm would make that much of a difference. Like I said I want to try testing it again while hot (gonna be tough tho). And also install a probe at the electrical connector to see when its getting +12v. Kinda sucks I can only do things on the weekends, oh well.Originally Posted by dmurray14
-Chris
I'm having this similar problem with my 318i M44. I was looking through the Bentley and noticed that, at least on my engine, there is something called a DISA I believe. Basically the Intake Manifold is dual/quad chambered and there is a valve that at between 4760 RPM and 4840 RPM it opens & closes to allow flow through either the dual or quad depending on which end of 4800 you are on. I know from my problem and reading about everyone elses this is occuring more around the 3k range. Just curious if maybe this has something to do with it. Like if the valve is partially stuck open. From reading the Bentley if this thing starts to fail it opens up fulls and you low end is really crappy. Might be something to check into. I'm honestly mechanically retarded, and just trying to learn what I can. Just thought I'd throw something out there since this seems to be a hard problem to fix.
thats a high RPM on a 4 banger. i dont think it has to do with that cause most people are having these problems under normal driving conditions.Originally Posted by pantherjkh
mike
Read the whole post... if this part is not working the valve stays open and it will run like crap on the lower RPM range. Just a possibility since some people are running out of options.
Update:
I took a drive and I really like the new S50 cams
The car still ran really sluggish like before . . . we ran just about every test my mechanic could come up with. . .Nothing, zip, goose egg, zero problems showed up.
Well tried cleaning the ICV again. . .that didn't help . . . We swapped out the Mass Air meter and VIOLA!!! No stumbling idle, no surging, and good smooth running from idle to 7200
Now I know that it may be long shot. . .but it might be worth trying. . . . I will report any changes if they occur
[OT]
For all those who wonder what a 325 feels like with S50 cam AND software . . . it feels just like an E30M3 S14 . . .you have usable power at lower RPMs then when 4K hits it like new engine! Engine note changes, the car grows horns, the tach sweeps by quickly . . .A TOTALLY different car. . . .Is there more power in the lower RPM range . . .yes. . .but with the BIG HIT @ 4K it SEEMS like you loss something in the low RPM range
I give this ugrade . If you got the cheese to do it. . . DO IT
[/OT]
-=PJ
Strike Zero's Garage
==================================================
2006 SCR-SCCA Street Mod Champion
1982 Toyota Corolla
1988 Volvo 780
1993 BMW 318is: Gas Sipper
1993 BMW 325is => 350is: Track Rat
1994 BMW 530i + 5spd
1997 BMW 740i: Hwy Killah!!
1998 Honda VFR800FI: Gear Driven Cam Goodness
2000 Dodge Dakota: V8 + 5spd = Smokey Fun
2000 Lincoln LS V6 5spd
2004 Pontiac GTO - RIP
2005 Cadillac CTS-V
==================================================
"If not under warranty, live with it, or bend over and grab ankles."
Lately I notice a slight bog down of power for a split second around 4k-5000rpms while pretty much full throttle..
What could this be?
-Robert
97 BMW 328is - cosmos blk/blk - 2door - 5speed - sport package
Shark Injector - Cosmos Racing CAI - UUC Clutch Stop - UUC Underdrive Pulleys - UUC Delrin Shift Carrier Bushings - UUC SS Clutch Line - UUC TME Red - UUC Stainless Steel Brake Lines - MZ3 SSK - Bilstein Sport Shocks - Eibach Prokit Springs - 96+ M3 Offset Strut Mounts(swapped) - 96+ M3 Rear Sway Bar -
96+ M3 Control Arms - 96+ M3 LCABs - E46 M3 RSMs - X-Brace - Turner RTAB Limiters - Turner Brass Caliper Bushings - Fan Delete - Rear Shock Tower Brace -
Originally Posted by PJ325i
Good test, thanks...
Does anyone know if a 96+ MAF will work in a 92-95? Or are they different because of OBDII?
Dan
Dan
They are different.
Originally Posted by dmurray14
I had bought one for my 92 from a 95 I think it was.. It had 6 prongs while mine only has 4..Originally Posted by dmurray14
E36 NON Vanos and Misc Parts for Sale
http://s1126.photobucket.com/user/To...25i%2092/story
http://s1126.photobucket.com/user/Tomfordny/library/
Chris,Originally Posted by a32guy
Any updates on your VANOS? I for one am eagerly awaiting your diagnosis...
Thanks,
Dan
Dan
Dan,Originally Posted by dmurray14
Not really unfortunately. I tried bidding on an m3 vanos on ebay but got outbid. I'll keep my eyes peeled. I had thought I was going to do an s52 swap in the summer but I realized it'd be more cost effective for what I want to do, to just buy an m3. (Which won't happen for a while). To make sense of my rambling, I will be much more focused on fixing this hesitation problem. I want this problem gone as I will be keeping the m50. If I have to bring the car to BMW and have them just diagnose it, I will.
-Chris
Sounds good... look forward to hearing the diagnosis. Please keep us updated!
Thanks!
Dan
Dan
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