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Thread: Clutch pedal bushings DIY - E36

  1. #1
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    Clutch pedal bushings DIY - E36

    I put in the UUC Delrin bushing and thought I would add some pics to the instructions from UUC. I searched the web and never really found what I needed. The job was a PITA and these pics will help a little.

    pic1 - bracket holding brake switch and clutch switch which must be removed to get Master Cylinder pin out holding pedal in

    pic2- bracket out so that you can get Master Cylinder pin out

    pic3 - bolt location to remove bracket. Up left of pedal

    pic4 - return spring as it looks installed. Be sure to note how it looks before removing

    pic5 - return spring with twist ties works perfectly!!!! I compressed the spring by laying my 3 ton jack on it and putting on twist ties.
    Attached Images Attached Images
    Last edited by calburke; 08-21-2005 at 03:01 PM.
    1995 M3 Hellrot S50 3.0 186K, 540 HFM, Euro airbox, TMS Perf chip, Understeer SSK, REMUS exh, Bilstein Sports, Mint Black Vaders, JT-Designs underpanel, UUC Delrin clutch bushings - sold 2006

    2008 Chev Hybrid Black on Black and a baby girl!

    2002 Chev Tahoe black - sold 2009
    CLK430 black on black ragtop - gone ..sigh...
    03 M3 SMG titanium all Dinan'ed out - gone..sigh...
    02 M3 - gone
    99 911 - gone
    (2) 325's 92,93 - gone, gone gone....

  2. #2
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    It is a PITA

    I recently also replaced these bushings. The worst part is not being able to get two hands up in there. The hardest part for me was getting the switch bracket back in place. I found that if you removed the switches the bracket was much eaiser to get back in as the positioning was not as critical. I still had to get my wife to help me to hold the bracket while I tightened the bolt. I must have tried for about an hour to get it in before I took the switches out.

    There should be a warning at the top of the instructions as to how big a PITA it really is.

  3. #3
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    what are your thoughts on the bushings?, same as stock, better, worse, etc..?

  4. #4
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    The bushings made it easier to push the clutch in. I did have 188K on my stock bushings...

    My clutch pedal is not bent to the left as bad as it was before.
    1995 M3 Hellrot S50 3.0 186K, 540 HFM, Euro airbox, TMS Perf chip, Understeer SSK, REMUS exh, Bilstein Sports, Mint Black Vaders, JT-Designs underpanel, UUC Delrin clutch bushings - sold 2006

    2008 Chev Hybrid Black on Black and a baby girl!

    2002 Chev Tahoe black - sold 2009
    CLK430 black on black ragtop - gone ..sigh...
    03 M3 SMG titanium all Dinan'ed out - gone..sigh...
    02 M3 - gone
    99 911 - gone
    (2) 325's 92,93 - gone, gone gone....

  5. #5
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    Thumbs up

    Haha, I was actually gonna ask you if you were gonna do a DIY on this
    Now, I'll have something to reference when I finally can't stand it any longer and get off my ass to fix it! Thanks!

    -Eric

    Turner Chip|Cosmos CAI|Euro HFM|GC Gizmo|24lb Injectors|AA Headers|AA Trackpipe|AA Catback|UUC Pulleys|UUC/Fidanza LTW Flywheel|M5 Clutch|Corbeau A4s|ZKW 6000K 50watt HID|ZKW French Fogs|Smoked Corners/Sides/Tails
    *DYNAPACK* 222.1rwhp @ 6000/219.16rwtq @ 4250

  6. #6
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    Thanks for posting this since i'll be installing mine shortly

  7. #7
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    crap, i'm installing mine this week. I had no idea it was such a PITA. Wish me luck.
    o>'o Share the road.

  8. #8
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    I remember reading a DIY for this in this month's "Bimmer" magazine.

  9. #9
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    Clip and spring tips

    For those about to do this. Other than the 10 mm socket needed to remove the switch bracket all that is needed is a screw driver to remove the clips. Once you remove the clip that holds the spring at the bottom of the pedal and pull the pin take the pin and clip and review how it goes together/comes apart. The clips and pins in the upper reaches are harder to see so with the removed pin and clip figure out how each end feels and where you need to lift up the securing portion of the clip.

    As for the zip tie spring compressor make sure to use higher quality ties as the ones I had tended to let loose after a few minutes. Maybe I had compressed it too much (in a vise).

    After doing this job I felt I earned a scholarship to contortionists school.

  10. #10
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    Quote Originally Posted by drrust
    I recently also replaced these bushings. The worst part is not being able to get two hands up in there. The hardest part for me was getting the switch bracket back in place. I found that if you removed the switches the bracket was much eaiser to get back in as the positioning was not as critical. I still had to get my wife to help me to hold the bracket while I tightened the bolt. I must have tried for about an hour to get it in before I took the switches out.

    There should be a warning at the top of the instructions as to how big a PITA it really is.
    Two hints, mebbe three:

    a. Remove the knee bolster. This makes access MUCH easier. The first time I did the brake light switch - I didn't realize how easily the knee bolster comes out. 3 10mm bolts and 2 philips screws.

    b. Right above the pedal pivot point - cut out a 2"x2" square of the rubber noise insulation. It makes getting the clip off and wiggling the pedal off and back on MUCH easier. If you think it will effect anything - glue it back in when done (I just tossed it - I have a convertible which is noisy to begin with.)

    c. I tried the tie-wraps-spring-thing. Tie wraps didn't hold it. I found it just as easy to simply move the pedal up, put the spring in place, THEN connect the pin for the clutch master-cylinder.. and finally to put the switch bracket back in place. Wasn't any need for tie-wraps if you do it this way.

    On a PITA scale of 1-10, about a 6 mostly 'cause you're upside down half the time when doing this job..
    Don Eilenberger
    '01 M-Coupe, '03 525iaT, '07 R1200R
    '06 Porsche Cayenne S - Titanium Edition (Iceland silver/Titanium

  11. #11
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    Quote Originally Posted by drrust
    After doing this job I felt I earned a scholarship to contortionists school.
    I did my rear brake sensor under there not long ago and I felt the same way.

  12. #12
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    I just received the kit from UUC. I'm not too impressed with the instructions. I'll let you know how well they apply once I do the swap.
    Aaron

  13. #13
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    So how did it go with the kit ?

    Quote Originally Posted by aaronsdropzone View Post
    I just received the kit from UUC. I'm not too impressed with the instructions. I'll let you know how well they apply once I do the swap.

    Man i am having a hard time with this thing... I am 6'3" and making like a snake to get underneath is a problem.. i had to do an inverted dive on top of this bogey (My reclined seat) just to look underneath as the blood rushed to my brain. This clutch pedal is made of plastic... man what a problem.. gotta get this spring in here... I missed driving my 325.. it's been 4 long days .. any better pics on how to get this installed. It seems the u channel clip retainer dont want to stay put.. i press the pedal up against it and it falls apart like a jenga game.
    1995 E36


  14. #14
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    You might wanna try removing the front seat to make space.


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  15. #15
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    Quote Originally Posted by ZONDERVANUS View Post
    Man i am having a hard time with this thing... I am 6'3" and making like a snake to get underneath is a problem.. i had to do an inverted dive on top of this bogey (My reclined seat) just to look underneath as the blood rushed to my brain. This clutch pedal is made of plastic... man what a problem.. gotta get this spring in here... I missed driving my 325.. it's been 4 long days .. any better pics on how to get this installed. It seems the u channel clip retainer dont want to stay put.. i press the pedal up against it and it falls apart like a jenga game.
    Sorry, I guess I forgot to come back. It was a pain in the neck. Mechanically it wasn't that bad but I had a hard time fitting under the dash. I think taking the seat out would help, though I didn't. I can't offer any other real advice, it's pretty straight-forward, just a total pain.
    Aaron

  16. #16
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    I will remove my seat when do this. Its only 4 bolts.
    Last edited by Jrdeamicis; 12-14-2007 at 11:54 AM.
    Z3 - S50 - OBD2 - Smog Legal - 6 Speed - 3.46 - Anthracite

  17. #17
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    RRSperry is offline Senior Moment Member BMW E36 M3 Expert
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  18. #18
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    RRSperry is offline Senior Moment Member BMW E36 M3 Expert
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    oops, I guess that is Rue Paul... How unfortunate for the candidate. Or the entertainer depending on your outlook...
    No matter where you go, there you are...

  19. #19
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    Quote Originally Posted by Jrdeamicis View Post
    I will removed my seat when do this. Its only 4 bolts.
    I've had these bushings sitting in my tool box for ~ a year and a half. Haha... not looking forward to it, but now that its cold out, my clutch pedal is embarrassingly squeaky. If you remove the drivers seat, is it JUST the 4 bolts, or is there a connector or two? I've been wanting to remove em for a DEEP cleaning and am pretty sure I have about $3 worth of change and my favorite pen down there.

  20. #20
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    Quote Originally Posted by RRSperry View Post
    oops, I guess that is Rue Paul... How unfortunate for the candidate. Or the entertainer depending on your outlook...


    Quote Originally Posted by Theodore View Post
    I've had these bushings sitting in my tool box for ~ a year and a half. Haha... not looking forward to it, but now that its cold out, my clutch pedal is embarrassingly squeaky. If you remove the drivers seat, is it JUST the 4 bolts, or is there a connector or two? I've been wanting to remove em for a DEEP cleaning and am pretty sure I have about $3 worth of change and my favorite pen down there.
    Undo the battery, undo all 4 bolts, tilt seat forward undo the connectors. Remove. Everyone says how heavy the vaders are but you should be able to remove them by your self.

    I have a pic of when I gutted my interior to clean.
    Z3 - S50 - OBD2 - Smog Legal - 6 Speed - 3.46 - Anthracite

  21. #21
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    Quote Originally Posted by deilenberger View Post
    c. I tried the tie-wraps-spring-thing. Tie wraps didn't hold it. I found it just as easy to simply move the pedal up, put the spring in place, THEN connect the pin for the clutch master-cylinder.. and finally to put the switch bracket back in place. Wasn't any need for tie-wraps if you do it this way.
    +10

    Quote Originally Posted by CMG View Post
    You might wanna try removing the front seat to make space.
    +10

    These two things make this job much easier. I replaced my master cylinder so it was a little more invovled but the same things took place.

    I didnt replace my bushings though, I just covered them with white lithium grease and also the attachment point that the bushings slide over. This was a few months ago and still no squeaks. Hopefully it lasts

  22. #22
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    Quote Originally Posted by Theodore View Post
    I've had these bushings sitting in my tool box for ~ a year and a half. Haha... not looking forward to it, but now that its cold out, my clutch pedal is embarrassingly squeaky. If you remove the drivers seat, is it JUST the 4 bolts, or is there a connector or two? I've been wanting to remove em for a DEEP cleaning and am pretty sure I have about $3 worth of change and my favorite pen down there.
    The problem with removing the seat is the seat belt.

    I just knelt down from outside and put a pillow on the side door sill. I did remove the cluth and brake pedal switches to have a little more access..

    Only problem that i am having is getting this stupid spring assembly back on to stay on.. I press the clutch pedal and the stupid thing comes apart... what a stupid design.. i have something else in mind that i believe will work better than getting that 90 degree clip to fit back up there...

    Sheesh... what a mission with that clip
    1995 E36


  23. #23
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    ^ Whats the problem with the seat belt?

    The seats in my E36 M3 come out with 4 bolts and 3 connectors for the heated seats...thats it.

  24. #24
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    Quote Originally Posted by jszy25 View Post
    ^ Whats the problem with the seat belt?

    The seats in my E36 M3 come out with 4 bolts and 3 connectors for the heated seats...thats it.
    The top of the seat belt is still attached to the side where it rolls out of.. so if i remove the seat the belt is still hooked up to it.
    1995 E36


  25. #25
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    Quote Originally Posted by ZONDERVANUS View Post
    The top of the seat belt is still attached to the side where it rolls out of.. so if i remove the seat the belt is still hooked up to it.
    Not true...at least not in my 99 M3. You can see the belt on the passenger side in this pic still attached. The seats come right out.


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