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Thread: Why does my Tru 4.100 keep shutting down?

  1. #1
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    Why does my Tru 4.100 keep shutting down?

    My amp says it can do 300 x 2 @ 4ohms. But why does it keep shutting off when it's bridge to my DLS 8.3s???



  2. #2
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    what kind of environment?

    bench? trunk?
    those suckers getting hot and going into thermal?

  3. #3
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    Quote Originally Posted by JPWheelr
    what kind of environment?

    bench? trunk?
    those suckers getting hot and going into thermal?
    it's just installed in the trunk somewhere... nothing too fancy i think cuz i haven't seen my car yet. buy anyways, he's not bridging the amp no more and wiring 1 channel to each X-oxer. everything is stable now, but he is saying that the amp is getting pretty hot. i called Tru, and they said they tend to run warm to hot. Tru said to crank it up and see if it goes to thermal. the amp should turn off to protect itself. if it goes to thermal, then i need to call him back.



  4. #4
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    incorporate fans into the new install.

    nice 80mm floating fans, although you probably cant hear the ball bearing ones in the trunk

  5. #5
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    I've never run mine bridged, but mine have never gotten - what I would consider to be - hot at all with my DLS all active...

    something sounds strange - I'd be concerned about that much power through the passives...

  6. #6
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    Quote Originally Posted by rcurley55
    I've never run mine bridged, but mine have never gotten - what I would consider to be - hot at all with my DLS all active...

    something sounds strange - I'd be concerned about that much power through the passives...
    i was just about to PM you, but here seems just as good too. can the DLS tweeter handle 100W from the Tru? from your experience, can you tell the difference from going passive to active on the DLS speakers? since my mids and tweets are in stock locations, would it be a total waste if i invested in the h701 in your opinion?



  7. #7
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    this is just as fine - the DLS tweeters have no problems with 100W - I ran mine active with an H700 with a 4.100 and they were fine. I've never ran mine passive - they have always been active.

    I did drop down to a two way setup active, and midbass certainly suffered.

    A processor like an H701 wouldn't ever be a "waste"' but I'd ask first if you really "need" it for your goals. If you wanted to T/A the snot out of it to get the stage a bit better, then the H700 could work very well in that kind of situation - but then again, I can't remember what headunit you have an what kind of processing you have available....

    If it was me, I'd look at going passive on the dome/tweet combo, then active on the midbass and see where that gets you - I'd favor the control of that setup over the extra power and running all that passive stuff. That Tru puts out plenty of power for those speakers.

    I know that Scott Buwalda ran those tweeters active off of a DLS A3 - about 150W of real power per channel - I doubt they ever saw that kind of power - but they pretty robust little tweeters.

    I'd start with what you have now, and then add the processor down the line if you feel you need it.

  8. #8
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    Quote Originally Posted by rcurley55
    this is just as fine - the DLS tweeters have no problems with 100W - I ran mine active with an H700 with a 4.100 and they were fine. I've never ran mine passive - they have always been active.

    I did drop down to a two way setup active, and midbass certainly suffered.

    A processor like an H701 wouldn't ever be a "waste"' but I'd ask first if you really "need" it for your goals. If you wanted to T/A the snot out of it to get the stage a bit better, then the H700 could work very well in that kind of situation - but then again, I can't remember what headunit you have an what kind of processing you have available....

    If it was me, I'd look at going passive on the dome/tweet combo, then active on the midbass and see where that gets you - I'd favor the control of that setup over the extra power and running all that passive stuff. That Tru puts out plenty of power for those speakers.

    I know that Scott Buwalda ran those tweeters active off of a DLS A3 - about 150W of real power per channel - I doubt they ever saw that kind of power - but they pretty robust little tweeters.

    I'd start with what you have now, and then add the processor down the line if you feel you need it.
    I JUST got back from the car shop and listened to the DLS 8.3s for the first time. i was very impressed. the 8's were run active and the mids/tweets were using the passives like you suggested. i'm sure they can sound even better, because the car wasn't totally complete yet. the 8's were installed in the kicks, but the mids and tweets were just hanging on the door waiting for the door panels.

    definitely a step up from my Focal Utopia 136's. the DLS aren't as piercing as the Focals were, and damn, these DLS get damn loud when you start cranking them up. i cranked the volume all the way up to 31 (right before clipping) and the speakers remained clear and laid back. finally, after having the Focals for sooo long, i finally know what "laid back" sounds like!

    but anyways, the domes and tweets are HP at 500 and the 8's are bandpassed from 50 - 500Hz. 10isPro warned me that having the 8's play all the way up to 500 would cause some localization and it did. he also pointed out that the domes don't like to be played lower than 400Hz and to avoid midbass localization the 8's ideally should be bandpassed from 50 - 150Hz. in other words, that's leaves me with the dilemma of having a gap between 150Hz to 400Hz... hmmm...

    Good news is Kirk has an RTA and he's going to try to tune it out once the speakers are ALL finally in and we'll be able to close the doors this time... btw, i have an Alpine 7998 that has a 5 band parametric EQ. Is that compatible with the h701?

    anyways, things are looking good!!! i am happy so far.



  9. #9
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    Mic is right, things will be a little screwy with the sitution that you have as far ad driver locations....however, you are really in the bass-ackwards situation where you put the mid and tweet in the door and the midbass in the kick. This is why I suggested that you find a way to get the domes down there too! But, I"m sure you can get it to sound good with what you have...

    I played my domes down to 360 and they never had a problem - I'd just find what suits your ears best and work from there.

    The H701 is going to be compatible with ANY headunit out there. If you use a 7998, you will get some additional control from the headunit, however, you will still need the RUX-701 - or whatever the controller is called - to tune the unit. You can use the Ai-Net bus as a way to get audio signal to the H701.

    I told you to go active on the midbass

  10. #10
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    Quote Originally Posted by rcurley55
    Mic is right, things will be a little screwy with the sitution that you have as far ad driver locations....however, you are really in the bass-ackwards situation where you put the mid and tweet in the door and the midbass in the kick. This is why I suggested that you find a way to get the domes down there too! But, I"m sure you can get it to sound good with what you have...

    I played my domes down to 360 and they never had a problem - I'd just find what suits your ears best and work from there.

    The H701 is going to be compatible with ANY headunit out there. If you use a 7998, you will get some additional control from the headunit, however, you will still need the RUX-701 - or whatever the controller is called - to tune the unit. You can use the Ai-Net bus as a way to get audio signal to the H701.

    I told you to go active on the midbass
    LOL... yes, you were right TWO times actually. one, about going active on the 8's, and two, putting the mid in the kickpanel. the first one was easily reversible, but putting the dome and 8" woofer together would've been a huge ass kickpanel. perhaps i couldn've put the mid and tweet in the kickpanel no problem, but placing the 8" in the door would've been more $$$. i'd rather spend $$$ now, then more money $$$, and then more $$$ again to finally get it right...

    but yeah, i can already hear your voice saying, "i told you so."



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