Should I purchase

[wboyne]

Ok I have been looking at a 1993 BMW 325is with 120,000 miles on it. My car I currently own sucks and I am looking for a decently priced used car. I found this BMW for $3995. It looks immacualte and drives so much better than the pontiac I have now. Is it worth the money to purchase this car and also usually how long does the motor and tranny last on the 325is. I have heard nothing but good come out of these cars and I really like theway this one loos since it has M3 wheels and body kit on it. Please advise if this would be a good purchase on my part.

[410225]

Vital. If you never owned BMW before, get this done from reputable BMW mechanic for 75-100bucks. Well worth it!

No matter what you drive, what you buy, when dealing with used car, maintenance history is critical and there will be something that mechanic will catch that you won't even know. Don't be swayed by nice wheels or body kit. See if the car RUNS the way it should first without major mechanical issues.

[wboyne]

yeah from when i test drove it it ran pretty good. no slipping of the tranny, no hesitation from the motor. But before I buy it I do want to take it to a mechanic to check it out. I want to check and see what maintenance has been done on it. Thanks.

[Builder2961]

If it has been maintained well you should have at least another 100k before major motor work is required. However be prepared to spend at least 1k on replacing cooling system parts Radiator, Water pump, hoses ect. Have it inspected by reliable experianced mechanic and have him write up an estimate use that to negotiate your best possible price.

[wboyne]

ok, thanks for the help. So say all I need to do is replace the cooling ocmponents, is that still a good price for the car.

[410225]

When purchasing used car, there is always something needs to be done.
if replacing cooling system, waterpump ($45), Thermostat with aluminum housing ($40), Coolant($20), Radiator($160), hoses and clamps($40), fan switch($20), belts($40), and so on adds up to $345 already. Plus when you get your PPI, that is another 75-100. So, negotiate as much as you can. Believe me, there are lots of mods and maintenance you will need, so save up some money.

[tbreihan]

First of all, 120K for a '93 seems on the mark as far average mileage goes, so that is a good start.

If the radiator has never been replaced, it will need to be replaced immediately.

Front lower balljoints in the steering, rear shock mounts, rear subframe mounts, and rear trailing arm bushings all wear out need to be replaced.

E36s are notorious for having cooling system components that seep coolant for a while before they fail completely. Coolant residue in the engine compartment should be checked for.

Also, leaks in the power steering system are not uncommon, nor are leaks from the transmission output shaft seal, which will be apparent on the bottom of the transmission.

Make sure the A/C blows ice cold.

Make sure that, when the A/C is on, you can get cold air out of the floor and defroster vents. If you only evr get hot air out of these, the heater control valve has failed and needs to be replaced.

Check the power windows and sunroof; excessive noise indicates failing regulators/motors, and this is a common problem.

'92s and '93s are notorious for having door panels which fall apart; this can be a negotiating point.

Check for accident damage; there are VIN stickers located on both of the front fenders (near the hood weatherstripping), on the hood, on all of the doors, on the rear quarter panels, and on the trunk lid. If any of these are missing, if they say 'DOT-R' or if they have been painted over, beware. Also, check for different kinds of seam sealer on the unibody, as well as rust, which are all signs of accident repair. If it has ever been wrecked, stay away. It is not worth buying regardless of price.

That's my short list of things to consider...