Thank you for your reply.
I had a spare can of refrigerant and put in and it got cold for one day.
I get zero PSI with engine running and fan on full.
I suspect a leak but need some advice how to track. A leak detector if I can rent one is not much use if there is no leak to detect as the refrigerant is all gone? Would the detector sense red dye if I inject another can in ?
The vehicle currently only has 20K original kilometers so I do not suspect any major components broken.
Can someone advise me what is my best chance to troubleshoot, thanks.
finally a diy on the a/c system
1993 blue 325is, 5 speed, koni suspension kit, eibach front and rear springs sway bar kits and stress bar , brembo front brake kit, 17''nittio tires, vibrant performance cold air intake, and bavarian performance chip
1994 black 325is, auto, afe cold air intake, eibach springs, bilstein shocks, cool carbon brake pads, 3'' flowmaster exhaust, and yoko tires
If you have no pressure and you had cold air, I suspect with 95% money back guarantee a leak. Auto stores sell a leak detector dye with some freon kit. Either get a black light or the light that comes with a kit. Mechanics also tell me to look for some oily residue at joints. Good news is that it does not sound like a compressor. Bad news is if the leak is under the dash it's a pita to get to.
Anybody have any idea how the auxiliary fan shroud mounts to the car? Mine was shattered in a collision and I can't make anything out of it. I see that it mounts to the radiator support on both sides but I know there are other mounting points. Also how important are the plastic air ducts on either side and the bottom of the fan? They were destroyed except for the bottom piece that mounts to the two side pieces. Any kind of diagram or part numbers for the mounting brackets would be great I'm trying to get this thing back on the road!
So to clarify:
Hook up to the low side: if its low (not between 30 and 45) add some A134a to it using a gauge and oil sealer can thing...
all while the car has been running for a few min with ac on and at full blast right?
If that fills up and adds to the right pressure, is there anything else i need to do? what does the HI side have to read at to be correct?
I am a bit confused at the vacuumand no vacuumaspect in the DIY.
Also asking bc had the compressor replaced 3 days ago. not sure if body shop vacuum'd the system. I will call to confirm, else i will rent a vacuum and bring to 30Hg. If so, where do i connect the vacuum line? (low size)
Last edited by beamer4lyf; 11-12-2008 at 01:58 PM.
my own-installed system is running quite fine for me now, but the only problem is that the pump isn't circulating the stuff?
the clutch, vent etc work fine, just that the guy told me that the pump isn't pushing anything around.
could it be the expansion valve? i hear quite a lot of hissing next to the glove compartment.
thanks
is there a DIY for replacing the AV ?
i think they are not reverse. use rust solvent or smth like that
They are not reverse thread. Left/loose Right/tight. They are sometimes a bear to get off. I have a DIY posted here yesterday on what can happen if you don't get them out correctly.
OK, I got the screws off. But now I need new ones. Can I get them from any auto part store?
probably yes.
i bought some bolts from the place that sells bolts, screws, nuts etc only. like specialized for that kind of sale..
So, my dealer just looked the same thing up on Realoem.com, and told me they didn't know...
So I've measured it out, and determined that I need 4 M8 40mm allen head screws with washers....and 2 M8 25mm allen head screws without washers. I called the local hardware store and they have some zinc-coated ones in stock. I'll be headed there after work!
Old thread ....
Can i just replace the condenser and then go to a shop and vacuum everything and fill it up, or it neeeds to be donde everything at the same time?
They are charging me a lot for labor, because of the dismounting of the bumper., so i wan't to this myself.
Another thing is there anything else i need to change when i do the condenser swap, any valves or filters?
yes you can...and just do it yourself. The bumper comes off in less than 10 minutes!
J. Pinson
96 328ic
85.5 Porsche 944
03 Land Rover
Great information.......Thank you very much!!......
Nice post...Thank you very much!!......
I tried to get my system charged last summer and the shop said the hi/low valves were leaking while they were trying to charge them. They said just replace them but I can't seem to find new valves anywhere online..
2011 M3 Coupe - Individual Fire Orange/Black Novillo Extended Leather, 6MT, Mode Carbon, Eisenmann Race, BBS CH-R, BC Coil-overs (Sold)
1995 M3 Coupe - Avus/Hurricane, AEM EMS, Precision Turbo, Boostlogic, H&R, Fikse FM/5, MaxVelocity, Maximum PSI, 20% Tint, etc etc.. (Sold)
2009 M3 Coupe - AW/Fox Red, 6MT, Carbon Roof, Shadow Trim, etc (Sold)
anyone have an idea how much it cost to get the system "recharged"?
I cant find where to gas my ac the fitting is to big for my gas hose is the low side red cap if so my 134 fitting is to small I just had it vacumed down and they said they were not sure how much gas it took and when I got home the compresser kicks on and off way to quick and I cant find where to fill the 134
First things first. Learn how to use punctuation please. It's very hard to read that one long sentence and make any sense out of it.
If your car is 93-98 then you have r134a and your low side should be on the firewall The fittings are different sizes so you don't accidentally try to fill the high side.
If your car is 92 then you have r12 and your freon cannister fitting won't fit. R12 and r134a have completely different fittings.
Bleed your cooling system http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum....php?t=1709482The ULTIMATE OEM Alarm/Keyless thread http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum....php?t=1792200
Five years after the original post (which by the way was awesome), and 8 months after the last post, here I am digging this thread....
My question to the community is: how can I tell whether I have an R12, or the 134a thingy? And I am asking this, right below the response that says that if the car is 93, then it is the 134a, if earlier than that, r12.
Well, mine happens to be right in the middle! It was built in december of 92, but as it was sold in 93, it is considered to be a 93 model!!! I have the car since 07, I think the ac never worked, but i didin't really care. My mom is coming in town now though, so I would like to at least have some ac (especially now that the windows are frozen, too). And all this in SoCal!
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