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Thread: Window Regulator And Motor Replacement DIY.

  1. #26
    Join Date
    Jan 2006
    Location
    River Ridge, LA
    Posts
    1,334
    My Cars
    2016 340i
    I used my Dremel tool to cut the rivit heads off. Cut an "X" across the head, then with a chisel. knocked the remants off, used a puch to push them thru. Very quick, no risk of damaging other parts.

  2. #27
    Join Date
    Mar 2006
    Location
    USA
    Posts
    6
    My Cars
    1995 325iC Bone Stock
    Stop, Don't use a Dremel Tool to take out the rivets. Here's the right method. This is how you remote rivets from an aircraft and insure you have round holes, not figure eights...or a hacked up panel. I don't care how careful you are, that Dremel is easy to make a mess with.

    As above, take off the door cover and raise the window fully. Taking a small drift punch (1/8 Dia. Max) or a finish nail setting punch, drive the steel center pin out of the rivet. One sharp rap is all it takes. These are serated locking pins, made from tool steel and designed to mechanically lock the rivet. You are not going to drill them out. The rivet is soft aluminium. The bit will wander off into the softer material and through the sheetmetal panel, leaving a figure eight or oblong hole.

    Now that the centers are out, you have a perfect guide hole to drill the head of the rivet off. Using a 1/4 bit, high speed and light pressure, drill only to the depth of the head of the rivet. We are not trying to drill out the shank or butt. We don't want to re-drill the hole. Too much pressure will spin the rivet in the hole. Lean the drill slightly left or right and the rivet will catch an edge and stop. Now, very, very light pressure.

    With a little side load on the drill, the head usually pops off clean at the surface. Or, using a chisel, strike the crown of the rivet, not between the rivet and the panel. The head will pop off.

    Taking 3/16 drift pin, knock out the shank of the rivet. The hole is still pristine and round. Your drill never touched the panel.

    This takes nearly twice as long to type as it does to do.

    Hope that helps.

    I finished mine today in about an hour and a half. The hardest part for me was getting all the parts clean. I used black oxide coated half-inch long 1/4 DIA button head cap screws (BHCS), cad-plated lock washers and nuts to secure the regulator and a 5/16 DIA BHCS, lock washer and nut to secure the cross brace, removing the tinnerman clip nut and the head of the fastener on the outside of the panel. There were no interferance problems and it looks like it could have come that way. It made setting the front edge of the window square much easier.

    Good Luck!!

  3. #28
    Join Date
    Sep 2005
    Location
    Florida, Earth
    Posts
    570
    My Cars
    1993 325is
    I used a dremel on mine as well, As I dont feel like its a great idea to be banging on something that is holding a piece of glass. My dremel job left no harm to the regulator or the hole. Its not an aircraft.

  4. #29
    Join Date
    Mar 2006
    Location
    USA
    Posts
    6
    My Cars
    1995 325iC Bone Stock
    This is the last time I try to help you idiots. If you want to hack up your doors, go right ahead. I give up. I've gotten the worst advice from this forum I've ever seen. You must all be absolute idiots. Anyone that can't control a hammer is an idiot. I've been a professional mechanic for over 20 years. I've worked on everything from a 1960 Rover P-80 Saloon to a Boeing 767. I've owned two shops that had as many as 35 mechanic employed at any time. My last shop cleared over $300,000 annually after equipment and receivables. I own two light aircraft, that I rent, a lake house w/the boat and enough common sense to stay away from this forum.

    I have only seen the kind of advice found here in high-school auto shop and Vo-Tech schools. This will be my last post ever here, so all you flamers can save it, I won't be back to read you lame-ass bullshit. You guys couldn't fix shit with the idiotic advice you give. Not to mention the bullshit replys you give to meaningful information.

    What a bunch of pathetic losers

  5. #30
    Join Date
    Apr 2002
    Location
    Bay Area
    Posts
    408
    My Cars
    325is

    Thumbs up Rivets

    I agree (partly) with tdrommond. I took out all 4 rivets today in about 2 minutes by
    first lightly tapping the center pin out of each. Then I used a simple drill. It all took
    less than 2 minutes, literally. I was going to come write this up but then I saw
    trdommond beat me up to it (a year ago).

    be smart. don't chase birds.

  6. #31
    Join Date
    Jan 2006
    Location
    River Ridge, LA
    Posts
    1,334
    My Cars
    2016 340i
    I appreciate the tip on removing the rivits using a centerpunch ad drill. If I have to do the other door I will try it this way.
    That said. when I used my Dremel, I did not hack up anything. I simply cut the heads off of the rivits, and pushed them thru. I would say it took about 1 minute each.

  7. #32
    Join Date
    Dec 2003
    Location
    Florida
    Posts
    1,938
    My Cars
    Had: E30 325i Coupe, Have: E36 328i
    i just did this job last night. way easier than i expected. windows work flawlessly and it only takes about an hour per side.

  8. #33
    Join Date
    Sep 2005
    Location
    Janesville, WI
    Posts
    1,004
    My Cars
    1993 325is
    Where is the ground for the window? I think mine is bad cause my window only works sometimes. When its not working, i press the button and it makes a little noise and the interior lights go dim for a second. Does this mean new motor or bad ground?
    1994 325is- M52 swap, Fan delete, AA chip, CAI, TC-Kline DA, H&R 28mm front sway, Kevin Higgins exhaust, kosei k1 17x8.5's with RA1's, DS2's with REO1R's, 3.23 lsd

  9. #34
    Join Date
    Feb 2007
    Location
    London, UK
    Posts
    1
    My Cars
    318i Convertible
    Hi guys,
    I read this thread after I tried to fix my STUCK driver's side window.
    After some fiddling it started working in reverse (button up, window down, etc...) and as you can imagine it's difficult to get a balance of high enough to keep rain out, yet low enough to close door.
    Anyway, it sounds as though when you replace the motor and regulator their is no further setting, does anyone know if I might be able to do something to set it correctly?
    Matt

  10. #35
    Join Date
    Jun 2007
    Location
    San Jose, CA, USA
    Posts
    1
    My Cars
    BMW
    After reading this, I still can't figure out how to take the window motor out. Do I have to take the regulator out too?

  11. #36
    Join Date
    Sep 2006
    Location
    Durham, NC
    Posts
    45
    My Cars
    2001 330Ci
    I work at an auto glass shop and we ALWAYS drill out rivets, then replace them with new ones of the same size. Don't replace a rivet with a screw because the window regulator gives a lot of pressure and the screw will eventually come loose (unless you weld a nut on the other side of the hole, which i doubt).

    Just my two cents.

  12. #37
    Join Date
    Sep 2005
    Location
    Janesville, WI
    Posts
    1,004
    My Cars
    1993 325is
    I just want to bump this to the top, so i dont have to skim throught the pages.
    1994 325is- M52 swap, Fan delete, AA chip, CAI, TC-Kline DA, H&R 28mm front sway, Kevin Higgins exhaust, kosei k1 17x8.5's with RA1's, DS2's with REO1R's, 3.23 lsd

  13. #38
    Join Date
    Jul 2006
    Location
    Baltimore, MD
    Posts
    354
    My Cars
    2023 Ford Maverick XLT
    Since I had no luck with my own thread, I will try here. I have the new regulator assembly, and the thing I noticed is that it is nearly impossible to move by hand (out of the car). Is this normal?

    Robert


    but this one goes to eleven

  14. #39
    Join Date
    Aug 2007
    Location
    auckland, new zealand
    Posts
    1
    My Cars
    BMW318i E36

    Regulator arms bust

    I had a similar problem to all of the ones above. About 3 months ago I went to put my window down, heard a loud band and nothing happened. The mechanic said that the regulator was stuffed through stress and needed to be replaced. Was going to cost $700.

    I managed to get a 2nd hand regulator (minus motor) for $70. The guy said that often the regulator arms would snap because the motor is so strong, and that was what happened to mine.

    I just completed the job now, following pretty closely to the guidelines posted by the guy above.

    The only difference was that I chiseled the rivets out and have replaced them with bolts.

    The arms went back in easily enough, getting the spring back on is a pain in the arse, but manageable.

    Took me 3 hours all up. Good luck.

  15. #40
    Join Date
    Mar 2006
    Location
    South East Asia
    Posts
    1,211
    My Cars
    530i & F30 320i
    HI all,

    Took me 3 hours and 3 finger cuts before I managed to get the regulator and motor off the door and replaced the bad motor with a used one. I followed exactly as what the OP suggested with some difference. Here is the sequence of work. Will put in photos later as I managed to take some shots.

    After taking out the door panel and the dust cover,

    1. I wound the window down until I can access the P shape stopper at the end of the window (right bottom corner).

    2. There are two 10mm bolts. Unscrew the one at the top and just loosen the bottom bolt and the stopper should slide out of the window base rail. Keep the P stopper safely somewhere. As OP said, there is a white plastic stuck to the glass where the stopper sits. Don't have to remove this. NOW! if you follow step 6.2 below, you can skip step 2 (this step).

    3. Now use a 5mm (or 6mm drill) and drill the 4 rivets until the depth being drilled is around 3mm or so deep. Leave the center pin while you are drilling as this will stop the rivet from turning while you drill.

    4. Take a puncher and a hammer and punch the center pin out. If the drill has done its job, the rivet shoult break at the head and come off cleanly.

    5. Use a 5mm allen wrench and unscrew the allen bolt at the back of the regulator. You have to unscrew it from the inside of the door. But its an easy job.

    6. The next steps can be done in two ways.
    (6.1) work the regulator (have someone to help if possible to push or pull the window on your instruction) until the white slider comes off at the end of the window base rail where the P stopper sits. Then work the other slider off. You have to do this in sequence. The back slider first and then the front slider.
    (6.2) Another way is if you can get the U shape pin out, which is easy by using a small long flat screw driver and pry it out with the help of a long tooth plier. Then use a bigger flat screw driver and pry the regulator off the slider. It should pop out with a bit of force. Don't worry about damaging the slider as you should get new ones to replace it when you do this job. Then move the front slider closer to the back where you can get at it. Do the same as above to get the pin out. Once the regulator pops out of the slider, you are done.

    7. Do what you need like replacing the motor with a new motor, a new regulator and so forth. Taking the motor out is easy enough. 3 self tapping screws hold it in place.

    8. When you are ready to put everything back. Remember to clean out the old grease from all the railings and put in new lithium grease. lots of it if you can.

    9. This step I did differently from the OP. I put in two screws where the rivets used to hold the regulator so I can hold the regulator in place. Then I put in just the new sliders inside the window base railing and work the regulator to pop each one in place into the slider. I did the back one first and inserted the pin. Then the front. You have to adjust the window up and down a bit to get the regulator in the best spot for your hand to get behind the door panel and pop the pins in. I think this is easier to do as I tried the OP's method and I was really having trouble trying to get the slider in the rail.

    10.Once the sliders are in place. Screw in the 5mm allen bolts and the other 2 6mm bolts for replacing the rivets. Tighten everything and you are done.

    If I have missed anything out please comment. I will put in some photos later in the evening.

    Thanks to the OP I have a nice working window.
    BMW E60 530i & F30 320i

    "Its sometimes better to shut up and be thought of as a fool than to speak and have all doubts removed"

  16. #41
    Join Date
    Oct 2002
    Location
    San Diego
    Posts
    714
    My Cars
    95 325i
    Quote Originally Posted by Alex0607 View Post
    I will put in some photos later in the evening.
    Can you please. I'm going to replace mine and want to see some pictures to make it easier.
    Thanks

  17. #42
    Join Date
    Jul 2006
    Location
    new york
    Posts
    98
    My Cars
    '95 E36 vert
    Quick question, I replaced my window regulator, sliders, and motor (2 times) For some reason it appears my microswitch drops the window 3 notches when the door opens and then raises the window 5 notches when the door is closed. it will do this till it cant raise the window anymore and tends to destroy the plastic gear inside my motor. I'm at the point to where im about to grind a tooth or two off the regulator ( I have an extra regulator so no real loss). Anyone have any advice?

  18. #43
    Join Date
    Jan 2008
    Location
    sydney
    Posts
    12
    My Cars
    3181

    can i install a mechinism in a door with one that manual

    whats the sistuation with the arms?
    need help asap cheers


    EVAN

  19. #44
    Join Date
    Nov 2006
    Location
    South Sacramento, CA
    Posts
    328
    My Cars
    1997 BMW 328i
    *subscribed*
    though... the problem with mine is that the regulator arm is bent (probably after some mechanical failure)... I'm just trying to change my regulator, not motor... adjusting is gonna be a b*tch, I fixed it the first time by straightening the original regulator arm, but that only lasted so long :-(... gonna have to buy a new regulator arm... *sigh*... thanks for the writeup! and add-ons
    "Fritzi"

    I'm never on this anymore.

  20. #45
    Join Date
    Apr 2008
    Location
    Ringgold , Ga. US
    Posts
    18
    My Cars
    1993 325is

    power windows

    Hi I have a 93 325 iS and my Pass side window just clicks when I press the switch up and down and the lights dim but no movement of the window also the window doesn't drop when you open the door....the driver side also didn't work when I first got the car and just started working one day( I did nothing) I REALLY don't want to replace the motor /reg combo anything else I can try? Also I noticed that when you open that door the interior light also dosen't come on and the light above that sunvisor also will not work ...Have checked all fuses under hood....Help.....

  21. #46
    Join Date
    Mar 2006
    Location
    NJ
    Posts
    339
    My Cars
    1998 328is, 2006 330ci ZHP
    Sorry to bring this thread back from the dead, but it really helped me do my 98 coupe's regulator and motor this past weekend.

    I will confirm that drilling the rivets does not work. I punched out the centers using a nail set and used a brand new drill bit to drill out the head. In the solid 5 minutes I spent drilling (playing with drill speed in the process to ensure I didn't overheat the bit) I didn't reach the depth I obtained in about 10 seconds of grinding with the Dremel equipped with a reinforced cutting disk. Once the heads were cut I used a small screwdriver and hammer to chop off the pieces of the head and then punch out the shank of the rivet. All in all, pretty easy.

    Here's my DIY. Hope it helps someone tackle this job.

    http://www.dvatp.com/bmw/diy/power_window/

    -Doug

  22. #47
    Join Date
    Oct 2009
    Location
    richmond, va 23233
    Posts
    4
    My Cars
    1994 318is, 1996 328
    Hi all, after reading this thread, I am torn as to which way to go first. The passenger window on my '94 318is will start to roll up and then start rolling down. I have no problems with it rolling down to any postion. It only occurs when rolling up. Oddly enough, if I just press the up button in brief increments (about 2" at a time) it will make it to the top with no problem. Any ideas? Thanks!
    Money may not buy happiness but you look better crying in a Bimmer!

  23. #48
    Join Date
    Jan 2010
    Location
    Keller, TX USA
    Posts
    2
    My Cars
    1994 BMW 540i

    Please Help me Find Parts

    HI, I am in need of parts for my 1994 BMW 540i. I believe I need the nylon sliders and retaining clips.

    Where might I find them?

    Last edited by sdk3; 02-01-2010 at 02:18 PM. Reason: Add Photo

  24. #49
    Join Date
    May 2009
    Location
    Central North Carolina
    Posts
    1,004
    My Cars
    2004 ZHP Sedan 6spd
    BMW Dealer, $4 each.
    each window needs 2

  25. #50
    Join Date
    Jan 2010
    Location
    Keller, TX USA
    Posts
    2
    My Cars
    1994 BMW 540i
    I went to the dealer, they said the part was old and that they do not carry the item any longer. They could not refer me to a store that sells them. I believe that are the Nylon Sliders but they could not confirm.

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