Oil change (528i-no pics and 540i)/ Oil meeting BMW Spec's

[The Grayt 1]

I just got a super clean 97 528i and I need to change the oil and filter. I have a few simple questions. First the only oil I could find is Mobil 1 5w 30 fully synthetic so i bought 7 quarts of it. Is that the right oil and is that the right amount? Next what filter to use?

Last, what are the steps for changing the oil? I have done this before but saw the filter is on top of the engine. I am going to put the car on ramps then undo the drain plug underneath, then is there any special things needed to take the oil filter off? Any other things I might need to know? Thanks, I am new to Bimmers and just want to do this right. thanks a million

[jamesdc4]

528i

528i Oil Change (no pics because it’s easy)

Disclaimer: The procedure below is to be done at your own risk. I have changed Oil numerous times using these procedures with positive results, but may not work for you. I am not stating that the procedures below are the proper BMW procedures. The instructions below were performed on a 1997 528i. Other years and models may differ, but I do not know for a fact. I will not be held accountable for any mishaps or accidents. Again, please perform these procedures at your own risk.
TOOLS & Parts NEEDED:
½ Drive Ratchet
17mm socket
36mm socket
Torque Wrench
Flat Head Screwdriver
Floor jack, hand jack or ramps and jack stand
7 qts of Synthetic Oil & Oil Filter

Tip: Warm up car to operating temperature to make oil drain out smoothly and almost completely.
1. Start by jacking up your car on the front passenger side jack point using a floorjack or hand jack (OR you can use ramps). Once high enough to get under, make sure to put a jack stand or hand jack underneath the front part of the cross member (place it on a point where you can still access the drain bolt).
2. Locate the drain bolt which will be facing downwards at an angle. The bolt is a 17mm bolt and is facing the passenger side front wheel. You can’t miss it! Look from underneath passengerside front towards the bottom of the engine. It’s the only bolt you can see. And also, you can’t miss it since the oil pan is a big square.
Using a 17mm ratchet (I would use the ½ drive socket and ratchet for added leverage), begin by loosening the bolt (counter clockwise). Strategically place the oil catch pan underneath. When loosening the bolt, push on the bolt until you are ready to remove it (what this does is that you don’t want to just straight loosen the bolt till it falls off). This will aid in not dropping the bolt in the oil pan and not having oil all over your hand. Let the Oil completely drain for a good 10 mins or so.
Tip: If using a floor jac, remove the jack stand and lower the jack just before it touches the oil pan. This enables the car to be leveled in order to get as much oil as possible out.
3. Loosen the Oil filler cap on top of the valve cover so that the oil will drain smoother. Then get your 36mm socket out and begin to remove the oil filter cap. This should be really easy to find since it is the only 36mm socket type in the engine bay. Look for the black plastic cover.
Remove the cap and the filter should come with it. Remove the filter just by pulling it out. Remove the large O-Ring on the cap which is located at the top to seal it (use a screw driver). Your new filter from BMW should come with one. Replace with new O-Ring and put a LIGHT coat of oil(oil that you are using in yor car) on the O-ring. Replace the oil filter. Wait till oil drains from the filter housing and then replace the filter and cap and hand tighten. Then take out your trusty torque wrench and torque the cap to 25 NM.(should say on the cap)
4. Raise car up like Step #1. Clean off drain bolt and replace the crushable copper washer. Replace bolt and hand tighten (clockwise). Make sure you clean ant oil around the bolt and oil pan. Torque that bolt to 21 ft lbs. Lower vehicle.
5. Pour 7 qts of oil into the oil filler on top of the valve cover. Tigten oil cap and start engine. Drive or let the car run for 3-5 mins and make sure there are no leaks underneath or in the oil filter housing.
6. Re-set the oil inspection light & that’s it!
Piece of cake!

-Gokooljapan

540i

Many BMWs like the e39 5 series and e38 7 series...have an oil reservoir located at the top of the engine...and it uses a filter cartridge that you insert inside of it. It's not the hard filter kind that you screw off the engine block.

Oil changes in these cars are sooo simple....you're usually done in 20 minutes. Doing it the old fashioned way...you just open oil filler cap, remove drain plug on oil pan, undo lid on oil reservoir and replace w/new filter and new lid O-ring...replace drain plug and use new copper crush washer, fill with new oil, replace oil filler cap. Voila!

Here's pics of the one in the e38 w/V8 engine...its pretty much the same in the I6 E39, too...

Oil filter reservoir (see it circled in red)


(old filter)


(new filter)


Here's pic of new oil filter, new lid O-ring, and new copper crush washer for oil pan drain plug:

Here's a partial DIY taken from the Oil Change with Evacuator (540i) thread. This covers the Oil Filter portion of the oil change.

- Use the 36mm socket to take the oil filter housing cover off. You do not need to use a torque wrench for this step, but it was easier than getting out all my socket wrenches.


- Pull the cover and old filter out of the housing.


- Place the old filter into the ziplock baggy and carefully pull the filter off of the cover (this may take some force).


- Take off the old filter O-ring and discard in the baggy.



- The Mahle filter O-ring and new drain plug sealing washer come in a plastic bag.


- Install the new oil filter into the filter housing.



- Lubricate the new O-ring with new engine oil and install on the oil housing cover.


- Install the housing cover onto the new filter but do not tighten it yet (oil may still be draining from the housing and hoses into the lower oil pan).


- Hand tighten the filter housing cover.


- Set your torque wrench for 25 Nm (18 ft-lb).


- Torque the cover onto the oil filter housing being careful to support the housing with your hand.


- Replace the dipstick and take off the oil fill cap.



- Use a funnel to refill the crankcase with oil. I used Total, Quartz Energy 9000, synthetic 5w-40 (BMW LL98).




- I put in 6 liters then checked the oil level on the dipstick. It registered half way between the two hash marks (lines) on the dipstick.


Edit: *IMPORTANT* - This partial DIY is taken from a DIY for an oil change with an evacuator. At this point if you are not using an evacuator , and you have not already done so, you must replace the drain plug on the oil pan with a new crush washer.
- Put the oil fill cap back on and start the car to circulate the oil up into the oil filter housing.
- Turn the engine off and check the oil level on the dipstick.
- Continue filling until oil level is at top hash mark on the dipstick (DO NOT OVERFILL).
- Double check to make sure all hoses and the filter housing itself are not leaking.

Here's the DIY using the [ame="http://www.amazon.com/Mityvac-7201-Fluid-Evacuator-Plus/dp/B0002SR7TC/ref=pd_bbs_2/002-6663006-7411216?ie=UTF8&s=automotive&qid=1174004548&sr=8-2"]Mitivac[/ame].
Oil Change with Evacuator (540i)
I love mine!!!!

Jamie
__________________________________________________ ___

The original thread somehow got deleted. Original thread also had a pdf with other oils in it that I no longer have.

I'll keep this up to date as new information comes to me.

BMW - LL04
Amsoil 5-40 European Car Formula
Valvoline Synpower 5-30
Valvoline Synpower 5-40 (pending)
Liqui-Moly 5W30
Total 5W30

BMW - LL01
Mobil 1 0-40
Castrol Snytec 0-30 European
Pentospeed 0W30
Total 0W30

BMW - LL98
Liqui-Moly 5W40
Pentohigh 5W30
Total 5W40

BMW - Motorsport
Total 10W50
Castrol TWS 10W60

BMW 5w-30 Oil

Thanks to many on this site. Please feel free to post inaccuracies.

Images of oil types by engine thanks to quattro PETE.

Jared
http://www.cosynthetics.com

Edit: Elf products were removed because they were purchased by Total.

[quattro PETE]

Big second on the Mityvac. No need to crawl under the car, and no mess.

As for the oil filter compartment - you'll need a 36mm socket. When closing it up, you should use 25Nm of torque, so a torque wrench comes in handy, but it's not absolutely necessary. Just don't tighten it too much since it's made of plastic.

M1 5w-30 does not meet BMW specs. One time use is not gonna kill you, but next time I would switch to an oil with a BMW LL-01 or LL-04 spec. M1 0w-40 meets this spec and is easy to find locally.

As for the oil filter, get the OEM stuff from either the dealer or order on line.

[The Grayt 1]

Thanks, how is that oil extractor used? And how many quarts do I need? What filter is best? and is the mobil 1 5w 30 sufficent?

[quattro PETE]

Depending on how much you drain, you'll end up using betw. 6,5 and 7 quarts of new oil. Put in 6.5 first, then start the engine. Shut off. wait a couple of minutes and measure the level on the dipstick. Add as necessary.

As for the extractor - you stick a tube down the oil dipstick hole and pump the extractor. Very easy.

Also, do the change while the oil is still warm. Warm oil flows better.

[BlackSapphire]

Big second on the Mityvac. No need to crawl under the car, and no mess.

I like crawling under the car. Call me crazy. "CRAZY!" OK, simmer down....

Seriously though, while I'm there, I inspect everything else. I mean, how often are you under there to look for signs of leakage, blown seals (suspension parts), etc.

I consider it part of my PM routine. You can take your Mighty Vac and shove it! Just kidding Pete.

[NNY528I]

the 5w-30 wont hurt you but better would be the 0w-40. You should be able to get at most chain autoparts stores(autozone, advance, pepboys etc) I have been using the filter that they sell at Advance auto myself, comes with the oring and crush washer and seems to hold up just fine. The mite-e-vac is great I'm sure but for my money it is still worth getting under your car every 5000 to 7000 miles and pulling the plug yourself. While Im down there I eyeball all the boots, pivots joints and brakes to make sure all looks Ok. Is also a good time to check for any new leaks that may have formed. With the Mite-e-vac you will be far less inclined to keep an eye on all those critical parts on a regular basis.

[Steve530]

When you get ready to pull that filter out, Have a plastic bag sitting next to the filter housing. There will be some residual oil in it and it will make a mess.

If you remove the drain plug, but sure to use a new crushable washer. If you re-use the old washer, you run the risk of over-tightening the bolt and stripping out the threads on the oil pan. That would not be good.

[FP5241]

Here's a tip....

DO NOT turn on ignition without tightening filter cap.... ask me how I know...

[NNY528I]

You mean dont start the car? If the engine is not turning I cant fathom what could happen.

[FP5241]

You mean dont start the car? If the engine is not turning I cant fathom what could happen.

yea... dont (let anybody) start the car.....

[Alpina540i]

Well My guess is he had a sensor go crazy when it realized there was no cap on the oil filter resivor.

Prob got a check the big metal thing under the hood light!

[The Grayt 1]

Finished the change it was very easy and I got 0w 40 M1, my final question was that I installed the new rubber oring on the filter cap but there was a small gasket that went over the filter center base that I accidentally dropped when putting the cap back on. Is that absolutely necessary? I cannot find it in there. LMK thanks guys!

[NNY528I]

boy I dont know about that one, Mine always had the part attached I guess. I would maybe go get another filter if it was me otherwise you may get unfiltered oil bypassing your filter. Can you take the seal of the old filter temporarily until you get a new filter.

[The Grayt 1]

I am not talking about the large o ring that came with the new filter, there was a old plastic piece that came off the old filter that I was going to reinstall over the center of the filter center base. It fits between the filter and the filter cap. I used an STP filter and it did not have this piece with it. Do you guys know what I am talking about?

[e39dream]

IIRC when I take mine out the filter is hooked to the cap with a round plastic part.

[The Grayt 1]

Was that an old piece of the old filter that I lost? I put a new o ring on the filter cap. Do you guys reinstall any other smaller plastic gaskets that go over the top of the filter? Or was that a piece of the old filter or a necessary piece that I need to go get?

[The Grayt 1]

Please guys I am driving myself crazy did I need that piece or was it part of the old filter and supposed to be thrown away? I installed the enw crush washer and oring that came with the new STP filter. Am I worrying for nothing or do i need to go to the dealer and get that smaller plastic piece that goes on top of the filter and the filter cap?

[Alpina540i]

Well even though you have described the part you lost none of us know what you are refering to unfortunatly.

Whenever I change my oil I just unscrew the black cap then pull it up and into a bag then I grab the filter and un snap it from the black oil filter hosing cap then just snap the new filter back on and screw the cap and filter back on with a new o ring and I done.

Don't know what part you are talking about mabey your old filter had come apart.
who knows?

[The Grayt 1]

Well i took the new filter out to look at it and to make sure that plastic piece did not go down there and it did not. I do not see the purpose of what it was maybe it came off the old filter. I have the new o ring and crush washer installed and the filter put on the cap and screwed the cap back down. Do you guys think i should worry about it anymore. I appreciate it, I just really love my new BMW and want nothing but the best for it.

[quattro PETE]

I like crawling under the car. Call me crazy. "CRAZY!" OK, simmer down....

I guess we all have our fetishes...

[indy525]

I just changed the oil on the 525 this past weekend.

I don't know what that extra part of the filter was. There were no parts of the filter that could have come off. The only thing I can think of is the filter I replaced (a Napa filter) had plastic ends on the filter. The OEM BMW filter did not.

I agree with everyone that the Mityvac is the way to go. Makes changing oil really easy and clean. I use Euro Castrol 0W30 at $6/quart at Autozone. The BMW stuff is less expensive at the dealer, about $5/quart. However, many people claim the castrol is great stuff.

[Qsilver7]

Well i took the new filter out to look at it and to make sure that plastic piece did not go down there and it did not. I do not see the purpose of what it was maybe it came off the old filter.

I'm with the others...it's not really clear what you are referring to. Go back up to post #2 and take a look at the new and old filter.

Is what you're talking about the black piece that sits on top of the new filter and snaps into place on the reservoir's lid when you screw it down? If yes, take a look at the old filter you removed...was the top of the filter missing the hard plastic round piece? If so, then that part must have disengaged from the old filter when you unscrewed it (a good reason to really consider buying the BMW oe filter kit (seen in post #2) ...which can usually be purchased for approx $10 from the dealer).

[NNY528I]

[IMG]file:///C:/DOCUME%7E1/user/LOCALS%7E1/Temp/moz-screenshot.jpg[/IMG]
see this image and tell us if any of the parts look correct for the missing piece. This is the Oil filter housing for a 97 528.

http://www.realoem.com/bmw/showparts...42&hg=11&fg=30

The only thing plastic I can see here is the little cage and stem. There is a gasket on the top and bottom edge of the filter that seals but no plastic pieces.

[The Grayt 1]

I guess it is that piece that is supposed to hold the filter to the filter cover. My filter is sticking fine to the filter cover now. So am I fine? Oh and it is not the cage I am referring to it looks like a smaller thinner gasket but felt plastic. It was the same size as the top end of the oil filter. Anyone else see this? When i removed the old filter it was loose and dropped down freely. Was it part of the old filter?